The only possible solution is to remove the steering wheel. Can you access the air bag screws?

 

I don't know... Are they accessible from the top of the steering wheel or from underneath? I'm becoming resigned to cutting the exterior plastic column covers that can't be unscrewed behind the locked steering wheel ...

 

Take the bottom cover off. Use a chisel and hammer to notch and remove the screws holding the column lock in place. Remove the lock, then everything will work with a screwdriver in the electrical portion of the ignition switch.

 

Update: I've finally found the time to dig in a bit. thanks to all who've responded thus far!

@1998Prizm's reference to the torx airbag screws allowed me to remove the steering wheel and then the lower plastic cover. Now that I've got access to the damaged lock cylinder and its housing, I'm trying to understand the exact instructions behind @Old Mechanic's post:

I'm not clear on what you suggest I take a chisel to... Are you saying my goal is to unlock the steering column so that I can drive the car that starts with a screwdriver?

I'm wondering how/if I can simply extract the damaged lock cylinder that I can't put into the ACC position for easy removal - I saw a post the other day (that I can't find now) that confidently suggested brute force with a screwdriver would get me there (ACC position and easy removal), but I'm trying to minimize what I need to replace.

 

Yes you can cut the covers off. Cut along the seam of the covers. The top and lower cover are snapped together.

 

No need to cut the covers. There are 2 torx screws on the left and right side of the wheel that hold the airbag in. They have a little plastic cover on them that pops off. Pull the airbag out, and unbolt the steering wheel (make sure to mark it with a paint marker so the steering wheel alignment doesn't change) then pull it off. You should have access to the screws that hold the trim together.

 

If you follow the ignition cylinder to where it connects with the steering column, I believe it is held on with 2 screws that have completely round heads. You can use a punch and hammer to slowly unscrew those and remove the whole unit. Then you follow the same procedure in a junkyard car to get a working ignition switch and key.
I would recommend pulling the junkyard unit first, then unplug the connector from your ignition switch and plug it into the junkyard switch and start your car with it just to test everything.

 

If you follow the ignition cylinder to where it connects with the steering column, I believe it is held on with 2 screws that have completely round heads. You can use a punch and hammer to slowly unscrew those and remove the whole unit. […]

Thanks for this — I actually ended up drilling out the pin from the lock cylinder that becomes pressable when the key is turned to ACC - this allowed me to pull/slide out the damaged lock cylinder from the housing. Got the idea from this YouTube posting.

I now expect that I can find a set of ignition & driver’s door lock cylinders & keys at just about any pick & pull yard. Tomorrow’s task .

 

The two screws that hold the assembly to the column have heads that are tightened until they break off (whats left is round). Use a chisel to make a groove in the rounded portion of the heads that remain, then use that groove and hammer to knock the remaining bolt loose, only need to do one then everything comes apart and can even be reinstalled by reversing the chisel and hammer blows to tighten them back up.

 

Sounds like he figured out how to get the ignition cylinder out without taking these screws out. Those screws are awful to deal with.

 

Actually if you have the right chisel, flat tip about 1/4inch wide, it takes a minute to do one and your finished, reinstall them if you want.