I've had good luck with autoparts store generic brake parts like clips and springs. I used some disc brake anti-squeal spray too on my Sienna pads and it works great. Good luck!

 

Thank you for your reply!
is this the anti-squeal spray:

https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/brake-lube/crc-disc-brake-quiet-aerosol-spray-9oz/555995_0_0

do I need to take off the wheel/caliper and spray between the pad and caliper?

Thank you again!

 

That's the stuff. Just spray the back of the pads and let it dry before reassembly. Pull the pads out before spraying, so you'll need to swing the calipers out to change the clips anyway.

 

Thank you. I have this https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...133/automotive-van-2003-toyota-sienna?q=Permatex+Silicone+Brake+Lubricant&pos=0. can I use this instead?

 

The CRC Brake Quiet spray is a rubbery compound, I had a squeeze tube long time ago but used it like once. The Permatex Silicon Extreme is a brake lube. It's a decent, rubber-parts-compatible grease that you can use on caliper pins as well as metal contact points (like pad to caliper and bracket). As is with JIS K2228 approved greases like CRC Silaramic.

Now, the noise may be from the pads themselves and not so much to do with the anti-rattle springs. I wouldn't replace the springs if they're not rusted bad and are still springy. Also if the brake fluid is old, consider flushing it in case there are some air in the lines. I use Valvoline DOT 3/4 brake fluid, about $7.99 regular price at Advance/Carquest.

What pads do you have on there now? Good ceramic pads should leave a smooth rotor surface and should have very little if any noise. An example is Akebono ProAct ceramic pads. Rotors can be something simple like the plain uncoated Centric C-tek to Raybestos Element3 coated rotors. You can find them on rockauto.

Has a shop serviced the brakes before? There's always a chance that they used a petroleum based brake lube on the caliper pins. That can cause the rubber parts to swell and the pins to seize. If so the old petroleum grease needs to be cleaned off and rubber parts replaced.

I wouldn't spend for the dealership anti-rattle clips at this time. Can you post a picture or two of the rotor and caliper/pads?

Find your correct part number on manufacturer's catalog, then search online for prices:

Home - Akebono Brake Experts

Akebono, a global leader in automotive braking technology, delivers NVH solutions with superior stopping power, clean and quiet performance, and longer pad and rotor life.

akebonobrakes.com

Raybestos: Catalog Part Search

Welcome to the new Raybestos Catalog! With our revamped catalog part search, you can search by part number, VIN number or make, model and year. Try it out.

www.brakepartsinc.com

And use the rockauto 5% off code if you buy from there, scroll to the newest post:

RockAuto Discount Code

Hey guys, I got this discount code but it will expire on October 24th and I won't be using it. I don't know if it can be used more than once so whoever uses it first might be the only one to get it. All you do is put this number "38391513162399" without the quotes in the "How did you hear...

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That can cause the rubber parts to swell and the pins to seize. If so the old petroleum grease needs to be cleaned off and rubber parts replaced.

Thank you so much for your reply. I put them back and didn't take any picture.
When I put them back 3 days ago, I use Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant on the caliper slide pin. I didn't drive the car yet. I plan to use Brakleen to clean the whole brake, caliper, and use nylon tube brush to clean the caliper bore -- since I have not driven the car since then, can I assume the anti-seize doesn't damage the rubber yet, or it's safe to just replace it?

and I will use this to lubricate the pin: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/permatex-silicone-brake-lubricant/per0/24129

one of anti-rattle clip (left/upper/outer side) is not springy, however the rotor surface (left/upper/inner side) has some groove when I touch it. Other than that, the rotor feel smooth. I leave the rotor on, and just spray some Brakleen on it.

the brake pad (all 4 of them) have sufficient thickness of friction material, almost like new, just the outside of the shim are not smooth, almost like some bubbling paint.

The brake has not serviced by shop in past 2-3 years. the pad seems to be ceramic.
I never done flush brake fluid, I will check how to do it.

I think my action will be:
I just purchased a new set of Akebono pad, and pick up the clips. I will replace these two and see what happen.

Thank you again!

 

Were the caliper pins difficult to move when you checked it? If so the shop might have used petroleum based grease, as for most shops that's all they have.

Some people use antiseize, but it's petroleum based and really not designed for brake systems. I'd use only brake lube designed for brake systems. The O'Reilly link grease is good. Toyota uses pink brake grease most likely made by Niglube (Niglube RX). The O'Reilly orange grease looks similar to Niglube RM with ceramic particles to enhance its frictional load.

The petroleum grease isn't going to damage the rubber overnight, but it will be hard to clean the bore and boot without leaving solvent behind. If you read the instructions on (most) brake cleaners, it'll tell you to protect rubber and plastic from overspray. Because petroleum solvents dissolve the bond between rubber particles, causing them to swell.

If that's the case, I would not rush to put new pads on there yet. I'd consider changing out the rubber parts and use the O'Reilly grease on the caliper pins. Rockauto has Carlson boot set for $7.xx, and disc hardware kit (pad clips and springs) for $6.xx.

Was the caliper piston easy to push back in with a clamp? Put a block of wood under the pedal when bleeding (two-person method is best), so the piston cups don't travel over unused portion of the master cylinder. Also watch for black rubber particles that flush out in the frist couple of pumps, which might indicate deterioration of the rubber cups.

If you already sprayed it with brake cleaner, maybe try q-tips dipped in alcohol and try to wipe up the bore and boot. Allow to fully dry and apply the orange grease. Inspect the pins maybe 6-12 mos later for easy movement and decide from there, if you don't mind putting up with the noise for a little longer.

So I'd make sure the caliper pins are ok before putting new pads on there. I'd actually consider new rotors with the new pads if the old rotors have grooves in them.

If you want the Toyota pink grease, here's the part number:

Do you have to lubricate Master Cylinder Gasket/Brake...

Hi All, I am in the process of installing a new master cylinder soon (Toyota Sienna 2003 LE) and when I took apart my master cylinder, I saw some grease applied onto the brake booster rod that feeds into the master cylinder and I also saw the mounting point of the master cylinder lubricated as...

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Changing out pin boots, see:

Any guide for slider pin boot replacement?

The slider pin boots are torn and need replacement. Looks like some kind of a pressfit system? Are there any guides or videos I can look at?

www.toyotanation.com

 

Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. I will nylon tube brush to clean the caliper bore. I have not sprayed it yet. I will use nylon tube brush to clean the caliper bore. I will try q-tips dipped in alcohol if the brush doesn't work.

the slide pin is kind of dry when I pull it out.

do I need to bleeding if I just change the pad/rotor (in future)?

Thanks again!