Your lug NUT is broken? Or the lug/stud that the NUT screws on to?

 

good catch!

it's my lug stud

 

Get a center punch or good strong screwdriver and hammer the broken piece out of wheel hub.
And if you want to remove caliper support bracket, there are two 14 mm bolts on the back of it that need to be removed.

 

we couldn't hammer it out. that's why we took off the caliper support bracket. but then we couldn't take the rotor because of a black locking piece..

 

Toyota made replacing studs a reasonable job. Honda is not so easy as you have to take the entire wheel assembly off if you really it done correctly. After the tire replacement at Tires Plus on my previous 2007 Camry LE, I broke two studs in the front wheel and three on the rear wheels because of over torquing by the tire installer. Front or rear, you do have to take the rotors out. Toyota provides a groove (C-shape) so you can punch out the stud and guide a new one in a straight line. For front studs after jacking up the front wheel, put the car in a neutral position and spin the wheel until the groove aligns up so you have a straight line access to the stud hole. Make sure your car does not slide or move doing this job. For the rear, there is also a hole in the back side so you can punch out the stud and install a new one. Toyota studs are soft compared to Honda so torque no more than 80 ft-lb.

 

Drill a hole inside of the broken piece, it will help to hummer it out.

 

If I'm not mistaken the ROTOR is secured with two large Phillips screws, and they are quite hard to remove without the proper tool, You would first have to remove your brake caliper and secure it by wire or something to your strut spring. (That helps protect the brake fluid hose from any damage). Then, after the aforementioned screws are removed, the ROTOR will easily come off. That would give you access to the backside of the STUDS, (you may have to remove the thin, usually black, dust shield first)..Then the fun begins. If it were me, I'd have my local Auto repair shop swap out the STUD. I imagine (not sure) that the studs are perhaps spot welded in..????. The good news is as long as the other four lug Nuts are secure, there won't be an issue of your wheel coming off, but obviously 5 provides "peace of mind" Oh, and BTW, if you have aluminum wheels, (SE or XLE) you don't want to "Gorilla" the lug NUTS on. 85ft lbs is sufficient but absolutely no more than 100 ft lbs. I haven't looked but I'll bet YT has some vids on how to replace a bad STUD.

Good luck...

 

^ There are no screws on the rotors, studs are not spot welded and the lug nuts should be torqued to 76 lb.ft per factory specs.
Toyota studs are pretty soft and could be easily stretched and snapped at 100 lb.ft.
BTW, if you are DIY guy get a torque wrench. Harbor Freights has a decent 150 ft.lb 1/2" click type wrench on sale for only $10.
You just can't get them any cheaper.

 

David, Are the STUDS actually threaded in? If so, would they be right hand or left and do think he mitt be able to extract the broken one with a pipe wrench or have it drilled and and heli-coil for a fix ?? I have a 2012 but have never had an issue so never really looked at it. On several other cars we have had, the rotor was held on as I described and I own a "Hammer" Torque driver that removes those screws easily. when applicable.

Thanks for the info..Never know when it may come in handy.

 

The splines on the stud go in one direction and designed to prevent the stud from rotating and the threaded part is for lug nuts.

 

Then on the other hand Harbor Freight sells torque sticks. They are awesome! Get whole set for 60 bucks. 25 FT/LBS to 150 FT/LBS and they're color coded to help you ID them in a hurry.

You can torque Toyota lugnuts to 100 FT/LBS max for cars and 120 FT/LBS for Tundra & Sequoia.

I'm required to used torque sticks at the Toyota dealership I work at. They had problems with torquing 80 FT/LBS in the past with wheels coming off.

I rarely use torque wrenches unless I'm dealing with steel wheels for Tundra or Sequins then I'm require to do so for dealer policy.

 

I'd be looking for something to push the stud out. With some force on it, a whack with a hammer will get it moving. Generally I don't like hammering around ball or roller bearings, too easy to brinnel them ie, the balls or rollers marking the races.

 

First of all you need to stop hammering on it. You are going to screw up a bearing if you haven't already. You need to press it out NOT hammer it out. cant believe the things some people do to their cars or call themselves automotive mechanics.

 

If it's stuck, you can try using a clamp to push it out. Or go to AutoZone and see if they have any wheel stud removal tools that you can rent for the job.

 

find an M8 screw. you can see 2 threaded screw holes. put the screw in the holes and you will "press" the rotor out. stud is pressed in. it is possible to hammer the stud out but best to press it out.