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Replacing bearing on IFS - what do I need?

5.5K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  sevitzky  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I'm replacing the bearings on my IFS. Never done this before. Doing it because I can shake the wheels back and forth when I grab them at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, and also when I grab at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

- Any tips for what I need to get ahead of time, besides what's below?

- For on-road stuff, do you guys stick with OEM on this? The dealer only sells the entire hub for ~$200. 1sttoyota parts doesn't seem to have front bearings, either.

- Will I regret if I don't use a torque wrench for this?

- Can anybody take a look at this and tell me whether these are the two bearings I need? I can't tell from the pic whether that's the inner and outer bearings (they call it inner bearing and "race").
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...e=1&categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain&navValue=11200168&itemId=168-0&parentId=12-0


Materials:
Inner bearing
Outer bearing
Oil/wheel seal


Tools:
Basic stuff in dad's garage
I'll have to buy a puller, probably?
Grease
Torque Wrench needed?

Ride:
1993 Pickup
2WD, IFS


Thanks!
 
#2 · (Edited)
There are four bearings for the front end. Two smaller and two bigger (inner and outer).

You can try re-packing the bearings first, if they are too far worn then you will have to replace the bearings and the races.

You will need a 54mm socket (or 2 1/8" works fine) to remove the nuts holding the hub onto the spindle.

Remove the hub and caliper then you can loosen the 54mm nuts (and locking washer), remove the outer bearing and pull the entire hub off.

Then you can pull the inner oil seal and then pull out the inner bearing. Inspect them for any discolouring (this is bad!), if they are in good shape clean them off and pack them full of your grease of choice.

If you are unsure of the proper way to pack wheel bearings search youtube for instructionals.

Once you have gotten the bearings full of clean grease, slip in the inner bearing (pack some more grease in there too) then install the inner oil seal.

Then you can slide it onto the spindle. Install the outer bearing to get everything in place and slide in the gold washer. Then you can start to torque the bearings.

If you are really unsure of yourself a torque wrench is ideal, but you can get it by hand with trial and error.

Tighten the first nut down tight (I think you need to get it somwhere in the range of 40ft lbs), spin the wheel forward and backwards a bunch of times, tighten the nut back up to 40ft lbs, then loosen the nut. Repeat this a few times (to seat everything), then snug the inner nut to around 33ft lbs, install the locking washer and snug the outer 54mm nut up tight.

Make sure everything spins easily, you don't want to cook the bearings. If its too tight, back off the inner 54 mm nut, if its too loose (play) tighten it up a bit.

Check your wheels periodically after this, just as a first timer you want to be sure :)

The first time it can be a little intimidating but its easy. Ive done it a few times. If you wheel your truck I recomend packing the bearings every year. 90k seems way to long!

Also, feel free to go with good aftermarket parts. I did!
 
#5 ·
If forgot to mention, I have a 2wd, so I think there's one less nut than what Jayota described.

Anyway, this ended up being super easy. I videotaped it and I'll try to edit it together for Youtube to help any other newbies like myself. The blind leading the blind....

I found a torque wrench (at the parts store - I didn't realize some places lend those..), but ended up just tightening the nuts by hand, according to the resistance on the wheel. Didn't replace the bearings, they looked fine, and just repacked them. The nuts were a bit loose when I took the whole thing apart - probably just needed a little tightening, but I'm glad I took it apart and repacked.

And now, the vibrations are gone at 75mph and I can take her up to 90!! (for a few seconds at a time..)


Thanks dudes!