not sure what you mean by timing chain rattle???? thats usually what you hear when the tensioner is fucked up or the drivers side guide is toast. are you shorting the te and e1 terminals? this disables the electronic advance. if your hearing a pinging or knocking you might be refering to predetonation, preignition. better known as spark knock. is your timing chain tight? are your valves adjusted to spec?

 

Yes i have jumpered the 2 connections, the idle dropped as well during timing setting, i have had the valves adjusted to spec by a Toyota tech as well. It sounds like the chain is slapping the guide when you accelerate or go up a grade or steep hill when the timing is set to spec, the only way i cant get this to stop is to set it on 0 TDC

 

sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. that or your tensioner or chain are fucked.

 

I just replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and the 2 o ring gaskets at the downpipe and manifold connection. This is a new chain and gears with maybe 5,000 miles, i went right by the way it shows on 4crawler

 

hard to say then, id check the chain tension. pull the valve cover and see how tight the chain is. if its loose id suspect the tensioner is binding on the top left oil pump bolt or was over torqued. that or you have low oil psi. if you used a steel rail chain it will be louder but i dont see how the hell changing the toming would effect the chain at all. are your sure the dostributor isnt wearing out? any loosness?

 

Its possible, i was thinking on the same lines, i adjusted the air gap yesterday, it was way out, it helped it run better , if it was worn out would it throw the timing that much?

 

Are you sure you aren't mistaking pinging for chain rattle?

I can't see how adjusting the timing will affect chain tension, but it will damn sure affect pinging.

Does it sound like marbles rattling around in a steel can?

 

are you sure you put the chain back in the right spot? like you didnt skip a tooth or two on the cam?

 

I don't think his engine will run if the cam timing is off a tooth or two.

 

it'll run if its off a tooth or two, it won't run well though

 

22re's will definitely run when the timing is off a tooth, not sure how many it can be off and still run though, but definitely 1 or possibly 2.

 

Are you sure you aren't mistaking pinging for chain rattle?

I can't see how adjusting the timing will affect chain tension, but it will damn sure affect pinging.

Does it sound like marbles rattling around in a steel can?

thats what i was trying to tell him, getting close to living up to my signature.....

 

It sounds just like the chain was doing before i changed it, just not as bad, now it happens only if im going up a hill or accelerate quick to keep it from doing it i have to retard it to 0 TDC. I will have to look and see if its off a tooth, it could be possibly?

 

if it was off you'd notice a lack of power. and if you have an auto it won't shift right, don't ask me why, but it slips like crazy makes it feel like its on its way out.

 

what octane fuel are you running?

 

89 octane, Im bout to the point of thinking it just want set to the factory spec for some darn reason, it runs pretty darn good, it just has a little rough idle when i have it in drive.

 

increase the idle speed up just a smidge,maybe that will help. If you retard the timing,the idle will slow down a bit. Before you do that,clean the throttle body really good. then check the idle.some times when you clean the throttle body, it will restore the idle. Also,take out the idle screw and spray tb cleaner into the hole and replace the o-ring that is on the screw. Ajust idle occordingly.

 

increase the idle speed up just a smidge,maybe that will help. If you retard the timing,the idle will slow down a bit. Before you do that,clean the throttle body really good. then check the idle.some times when you clean the throttle body, it will restore the idle. Also,take out the idle screw and spray tb cleaner into the hole and replace the o-ring that is on the screw. Ajust idle occordingly.

Thanks for the tips, I have already done all of this tho

 

If your timing chain is making any noise at all, that is the problem. Just because it is new, doesn't mean it won't have already had the chance to screw up. My timing chain made a ticking sound (not marbles in a can or anything), and it normally would only do it when you hit a bump and had the throttle just right, then it would do it for a while. It wasn't something that was constantly ticking. Different throttle amounts would/wouldn't make it tick.

Mechanic later said "I could fit a screw driver in it, it was so loose". I think I got the truck so cheap because the PO took it to toyota or something and found out a Chain replacement was about 1800 bucks alone, not to mention the clutch. Runs like a top now!

 

Changing the ignition timing won't effect noise from the timing chain.

Timing chains rattle most at idle and certainly not worse when applying a load to the engine.

I think clearly you are mistaking detonation or preignition for timing chain noise.

these conditions would get better by retarding the ignition timing.

When your timing is set to spec is your distributor adjustment near the center of the slot? Or is it way off to one side or the other.

If the timing is all OK then you could have an issue with your engine running hot, Too high of mechanical compression caused by carbon build up Or an EGR problem.

 

I agree with the above post

 

The only thing i am unsure of on my installation is the length bolt at the oil pump that everyone says can if its too long touch the chain tensioner, can someone show me which bolt it is?

 

If there was a mechanical cause of your noise it would be making the noise all the time and be more noticeable at Idle.

You need to focus on what you know.
It gets better when you retard the timing.
That bolt does not get shorter when you change the timing.
The timing chain does not get tighter when you change the timing.

Try running high test If it gets better then start looking at the things that cause detonation:

Excessive combustion pressure and/or temperature.

 

i agree with vicor, but if your chain is loose it could throw the timing off to where it would ping at the correct setting on the distributor and by retarding it your just compensating for the excess retardation on in the valve train. the bolt im talking about is on the upper left side of the oil pump. if you pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight you should be able to tell if the bolt is sticking out and making contact with the tensioner. have you ever pulled the cover to see if the chain has excess slack on the drivers side? if not id say the timing isnt the only thing retarded here.

 

have you ever pulled the cover to see if the chain has excess slack on the drivers side? if not id say the timing isnt the only thing retarded here.

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