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Running Boards

20K views 61 replies 19 participants last post by  nhighlander  
#1 ·
So I got bored today and ended up buying the oem running boards for my HL. Does anybody have experience installing the oem on the 2020? Any tips/tricks? Special tool? Pics appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Haha oh man, I was thinking about doing the same thing. I couldn't find any videos for 2020. From what I can tell there is a template and you have to drill holes etc. I wish they used existing bolts, would make things less sketchy. Have you seen the running boards in person? Take some pics when they come in and let me know what is included!
 
#3 ·
I don't on the 2020 but they SUCKED installing for the 2014 XLE when I did them. OEM then required drilling, I assume the same for 2020 as Toyota doesn't innovate in some senses.

Few things I would suggest (especially if you need to drill):
1. Get the car on a lift or really high in the air, drilling the pinch welds on your back will kill you.
2. Have many Cobalt or Titanium or even kryptonite (lol) drill bits, I blew through bits.
3. Print the instructions out and have it handy
4. Read it (I skimmed it) carefully and really understand it
5. Lots and lots of beer

After doing that 2014, any running boards I did after were aftermarket that required no drilling.
 
#7 ·
Toyota doesn't put copies of the instructions in the box. In the grand scheme of things, I'm sure that saves paper and ink and it's a good thing. When the parts department sells you an accessory to put on yourself, they're supposed to print the instructions for you.

Looks like no drilling needed, but it's a very detailed process and there's some scraping involved if there's some body sealant in the way in spots. It's supposed to take a dealer about an hour to do the job.
 

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#8 ·
@toto thank you for this!!!!! It looks like a lot of small stuff to work on but I have nothing but time in my hands right now! Glad it doesn’t require drilling. Thanks again!
 
#11 ·
I didn't catch that detail. I just had to Google to find out WTF a "rivnut" is.
Now that I see it, yeah, you're really stuck on this project without a rivnut installation tool.

Is that some new thing Toyota is doing? If they're making all the dealers buy a rivnut tool, Toyota must plan to use it in other applications.
 
#12 ·
you can actually do this without the rivnut tool...I did with my hellcat’s wicker bill spoiler install before. Just need a bolt,nut and washers to press it in. YouTube shows a lot of vids on how to do it. But for $20 I just bought the tool lol
 
#16 ·
The OEM ones are no-drill and no-cut. They're installed with a variety of fasteners including rivnuts, but the holes are all there. You may need a scraping tool if there is excess weld sealant in the area where the running board goes.

Ideally the aftermarkets use the same mounting points.
 
#18 ·
The running boards don't stick out far enough to stop a car door from dinging yours. The body side molding is just decorative, too. On the 2020 Highlander, the molding goes near the bottom of the door. It's not really meant to be protective. Even on 2014-2019 Highlander, the molding was pretty narrow so you'd have to be really lucky about where the other person's door made contact with your car. Odds are it would not hit the molding, although it was a possibility (greater than it is on 2020).
 
#25 ·
Having just installed running boards yesterday I will say it took me about 1 hour per side. I had a rivnut puller already and used the hardware kit that was provided; the rivnuts were included.
 
#26 ·
Thank you! I was trying to get an idea how long and how difficult. Is there much room for error in positioning the running boards? I’m hoping the hole locations for the rivnuts and bolts are clear enough to assure perfect fit.
 
#27 ·
Everything lined up very well and I had no worries about alignment. I did "study" the installation instruction to ensure I understood each task. I believe that helped me keep the installation time lower than what has been quoted.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Lessons learned?

  1. Inventory and set aside what you need for one side installation; less clutter equals better clarity of task. At first I had everything out on a box and had to take extra time to locate what I needed at each step.
  2. Be aware that the Wakai nut insert needs to be properly centered and the "tab" fully pulled out to ensure you can engage the bolt once you begin that part of the installation. Be gentle inserting the bolt into the Wakai nut while simultaneously rotating the bolt to engage the bolt threads. This sounds like a lot, however it is a very easy task. Check this link for more info.
  3. Keep the rivnut tool steady and fully inserted into each hole as you compress the rivnut.
  4. When placing the running board into position ensure the rear placement is correct, then lift the front and push the front clip into the body. After this you will see that each bolt hole is well aligned for the next step which is bolt installation.
  5. Once you complete all of the installation steps on the first running board you will gain confidence for the second side.
  6. Don't overthink this installation; it is easily accomplished by one person, thinking through each step.
  7. Ensure you have a 6 inch extension and 10mm deep well socket to make it easier to thread the two underside bolts on each side.
 
#30 ·
Lessons learned?

  1. Inventory and set aside what you need for one side installation; less clutter equals better clarity of task. At first I had everything out on a box and had to take extra time to locate what I needed at each step.
  2. Be aware that the Wakai nut insert needs to be properly centered and the "tab" fully pulled out to ensure you can engage the bolt once you begin that part of the installation. Be gentle inserting the bolt into the Wakai nut while simultaneously rotating the bolt to engage the bolt threads. This sounds like a lot, however it is a very easy task. Check this link for more info.
  3. Keep the rivnut tool steady and fully inserted into each hole as you compress the rivnut.
  4. When placing the running board into position ensure the rear placement is correct, then lift the front and push the front clip into the body. After this you will see that each bolt hole is well aligned for the next step which is bolt installation.
  5. Once you complete all of the installation steps on the first running board you will gain confidence for the second side.
  6. Don't overthink this installation; it is easily accomplished by one person, thinking through each step.
Thanks for sharing!
 
#43 ·
Can you use a mirror to look under to see if the mounting hole lines up with the rivnut? You may need to push up or in to get it to align if it is not so now. Maybe you might need to slightly angle the bolt to line up with the rivnut?
 
#55 ·
I just put mine on. If you read the instructions it might scare you. Its really not that hard. You need a Rivnut tool, I got one from Amazon. It is Aoben and it's 14", so you would need to raise the vehicle up a bit to get the 2 under the vehicle. I would recommend the longer tool because the rivnuts that come with the running boards are stainless and harder to install. Make sure they are tight so you can torque them. I used a 1/4" Lexivon torque wrench that I also got from Amazon for $25.

I suggest you read the instruction and then look at the vehicle. You have to take out the 2 side screws and 3 push pins on the bottom and the trim nut on the bottom by the back wheel. Once you remove these you simply pry the rocker panel cover off.

The holes are already in the rocker panel. I marked them once I looked at the instructions and determined where the rivnuts go. There are 8, 6 on the side and 2 on the bottom. There are two bolts on the bottom that are inserted into pre existing holes with a plastic washer. You will need to remove one of the white plastic retainers to put into the slot on the running boar, this would be the front. There is also a weird nut that you have to put into a hole in the side, I think they call it a waki nut. It will go in the front position where you take out the plastic nut insert where one of the tap screws was at the very beginning of the rocker cover removal. There is some body putty that you have to remove and replace on the bottom. The instructions are clear on this.

Once you get everything into place you slide the back part of the running board between the rear mud guard and trim. The hardest part will be aligning the two bolts on the bottom with the small holes in the board. Once you do that push the white retainer on the front of the board into the hole and this will hold it in place while you put the 2 nuts and the other bolts in place. Make sure to start all of these before you tighten them. And don't forget the back will have the self tapping trim bolt as well as the bolt that goes into the rivnut. Once you get everything semi tight use the instructions to tighten all nuts in order. I do believe it is 67 inch pounds. That Lexivon 1/4" torque wrench is perfect for the job. On one side of my install one of the bolts would not torque, apparently the rivnut was not set. Make sure you set them, its important so that they will torque.

It was intimidating when I read the instructions. It took 2.5 hours to install one side. When I did the other side it took me 45 minutes. I used a floor jack to lift the vehicle to get the rivnut tool to fit underneath. My advice is to cross your arms when pulling the rivnut tool. Again, the stainless rivnuts are hard and pulling the tool is much easier than trying to push both sides. Good luck, I hope this helps.
325270
325271
 
#57 ·
I just put mine on. If you read the instructions it might scare you. Its really not that hard. You need a Rivnut tool, I got one from Amazon. It is Aoben and it's 14", so you would need to raise the vehicle up a bit to get the 2 under the vehicle. I would recommend the longer tool because the rivnuts that come with the running boards are stainless and harder to install. Make sure they are tight so you can torque them. I used a 1/4" Lexivon torque wrench that I also got from Amazon for $25.

I suggest you read the instruction and then look at the vehicle. You have to take out the 2 side screws and 3 push pins on the bottom and the trim nut on the bottom by the back wheel. Once you remove these you simply pry the rocker panel cover off.

The holes are already in the rocker panel. I marked them once I looked at the instructions and determined where the rivnuts go. There are 8, 6 on the side and 2 on the bottom. There are two bolts on the bottom that are inserted into pre existing holes with a plastic washer. You will need to remove one of the white plastic retainers to put into the slot on the running boar, this would be the front. There is also a weird nut that you have to put into a hole in the side, I think they call it a waki nut. It will go in the front position where you take out the plastic nut insert where one of the tap screws was at the very beginning of the rocker cover removal. There is some body putty that you have to remove and replace on the bottom. The instructions are clear on this.

Once you get everything into place you slide the back part of the running board between the rear mud guard and trim. The hardest part will be aligning the two bolts on the bottom with the small holes in the board. Once you do that push the white retainer on the front of the board into the hole and this will hold it in place while you put the 2 nuts and the other bolts in place. Make sure to start all of these before you tighten them. And don't forget the back will have the self tapping trim bolt as well as the bolt that goes into the rivnut. Once you get everything semi tight use the instructions to tighten all nuts in order. I do believe it is 67 inch pounds. That Lexivon 1/4" torque wrench is perfect for the job. On one side of my install one of the bolts would not torque, apparently the rivnut was not set. Make sure you set them, its important so that they will torque.

It was intimidating when I read the instructions. It took 2.5 hours to install one side. When I did the other side it took me 45 minutes. I used a floor jack to lift the vehicle to get the rivnut tool to fit underneath. My advice is to cross your arms when pulling the rivnut tool. Again, the stainless rivnuts are hard and pulling the tool is much easier than trying to push both sides. Good luck, I hope this helps.
I just installed one of the running boards, took me over two hours. Vast majority of this time was spent screwing around with the damn Wakai nut. The bolt ended up not threading and the Wakai nut got distorted. After a couple repeated attempts at getting the nut straightened it finally broke off and fell into the rocker. Now I have no bolt securing the running board at this location. What a crap design if you ask me.

My rivnut tool was quite large and the door got in the way for a couple of them. I’d suggest getting a smaller rivnut tool with right-angled handles, not the straight ones. For the passenger side I’m debating drilling out and enlarging that rectangular slot where the Wakai nut goes and installing another rivnut there.

Toyota would have done everyone a huge favor by having threaded bosses already installed in the rockers, eliminating the need for all these rivnuts and Wonky nuts.
 
#62 ·
I've seen the rivet nut install videos but anyone buying the OEM running board, buy a rivnut tool with LONG handles. You'll thank yourself. Anything big like M5/M6 and larger, you want more leverage. I use the tool every so often and it's a handy tool to have without having to drill holes to use bolt/nut combo. It has its applications but I've replaced old rusted license plate holders on the rear trunk of my 2012 Highlander with a simple rivet connection for bolts to hold things instead of welding things on.