I've got a 2017 with 65k miles, in Alberta where 4 or 5 months are spent frozen with salt in the roads, and that is way more rust than I have. The amount of corrosion on even the aluminum components seems crazy. A couple more years and some of those nuts are never coming off in one piece again.

 

The undercarriage looks like my former 2019 after 4 Ontario winters .
The half shafts look worse and that aspect would cause me pause.
The rest is just surface rust on welds.
Some issues I noticed on mine.
Keep an eye on rust developing around the catch on the hood and those rear glass hatch struts.
Also the vehicle will be really rusty around the brakes and their could be rust on the body inside the drivers wheel arch next to the engine.
I would say avoid the US assembled toyotas buy either Japan or Canadian assembled.
RAV4 seems better for rust
Avoid blizzard pearl paint.

 

I would say avoid the US assembled toyotas buy either Japan or Canadian assembled.

they are all the same. It is a myth that a Toyota made in XYZ is better than a Toyota made in ZYX.

 

What's the issue with Blizzard Pear, just because of the TSB? I have BP and it's fine.

Regarding that rust, it looks almost like it was submerged for a short period given the pitting on the aluminum. I'm in CT and my HL was a previously registered in NY and I don't have a 1/4 of that surface rust. Maybe they drove it on the beach a lot in CA or ME?

 

What is the deal with people that have headaches, I never have headaches.
The highlander has issues quite a few issues and they can be costly, the Indiana built vehicle has some quality question marks,not assembly as such but components used in my opinion.
Good vehicle but be careful.

 

Leased by a company or person from Cali, but clearly not driven there it's whole life.

I wouldn't worry about it. These things need nothing underneath but fluid changes and brakes unless you get into an accident. If you do get into an accident, the repair shop will be working on it and not you. Brakes may not be fun when they are due next, but just replace rusted hardware and never look back.

 

that Toyota undercoating is pretty useless. I can see rust bubbling up underneath that black paint. I fluid film everything you show rusted even though according to Toyota, I shouldn't because it could void my warranty since my car is a RAV4 hybrid. Thus far, it has kept my rust under check and looking far better than this Highlander.

 

Yes useless Indiana undercoating?
And crappy Chinese sourced steel?
US manufacturing is garbage these days.
Tacoma being made in Mexico now is probably a good thing.
Look at all the issues with the new Tundra, even the outgoing tundra looked kind of cheap.

 

I also have a 2019 Highlander and live in Minnesota and my under body has no where near that amount of corrosion.
The previous owner must have never washed the under body to remove the road salt and/or ocean salt water residue.

 

parked overnight in a heated garage to cook that rott in such a short time?

 

can we just stay on topic? The topic was rust on the undercarriage.

 

Simple if it has rust look elsewhere
Good chance it was just parked in the street most of its life.
The level of corrosion on the alloy and driveshafts is out of proportion to the visible rust on the steel.
The rust in the last photo is looking nasty and that could be lurking under the paint elsewhere.
Walk away.

 

That rust looks excessive for the age of the vehicle. If it is flood damange, then there may be gremlins in some of the electrics.

RUN AWAY - there are plenty of other used cars from which to choose.

 

My 2020 Corolla got flooded back in September along with a bunch of neighbor's cars. My insurance company declared it a total loss. Story short, I got rid of my car, but my neighbors continued driving theirs.

 

Thanks all for the feedback. I took it back based on your collective responses. Seemed excessive relative to similar year models or even older ones. Greatly appreciate everyone weighing in. On to the next one!

 

Flood car?

 

I would pass on that for the reasons most others have mentioned. I’m from western NY, I now live in Fl. That level of rust indicates it was driven on a beach through surf or wet sand or it saw heavy snow and road salt. That honestly looks like a good 5-6 years of Buffalo/Rochester NY winter driven vehicles. For the price you’re going to be paying, you might as well get a clean one without rust. Everyone who mentions things Are not going to come apart is absolutely right. If you live in a state without a heavy winter snowfall where salt is hardly used then anytime you need work done they are going to up the labor because they will have to deal with rust, when I moved here from NY I transferred my job, I’m an auto technician, most of my coworkers have never used an oxy acetylene torch, I was dumbfounded, since I used one weekly in Rochester for 25 years. If the price was right and you live say in Chicago or Cleveland, they are used to rusty cars and it’s less an issue.

 

If the price was right and you live say in Chicago or Cleveland, they are used to rusty cars and it’s less an issue.

I am in Chicago and I would pass this one, but what can you expect from a leased vehicle? There is a reason why people lease instead of buy.

 

Hi all. I've got a 24hr test drive for a 2019 Highlander XLE Limited/AWD (silver ext) with 39k miles on it. Vehicle history suggests it was a lease car in California, but all I know is that it's latest stop was a dealership (carmax) in Maine. I'm down in the Carolinas, so we don't have a lot of rusted cars....Not sure if this one spent a lot of time in Northeast or the coast where it could have gotten salt damage but curious if anyone with experience in this area thinks the attached pics should be reason enough NOT to purchase. Others (who haven't seen the attached pics) have told me rust is very normal, but this seems pretty bad to me.
Otherwise, car drives beautifully and interior in great shape.
Welcome opinions. Thanks in advance.


View attachment 406663 View attachment 406664 View attachment 406665 View attachment 406666 View attachment 406667 View attachment 406668 View attachment 406669

I think this was a post to show how little rust is act here

 

2019 from the Midwest rust belt with 39k. Fluid Film applied every spring and fall.

 

2019 from the Midwest rust belt with 39k. Fluid Film applied every spring and fall.
View attachment 406842

Nice and clean! What kind of prep work is done before applying the film? What kind of film do you use? Is it applied to everything including exhaust system?

 

I periodically go through a car wash with a under body flush/wash when the temps go over 32 degrees as the salt activates then.

 

I periodically go through a car wash with a under body flush/wash

I used to do this until the state got after all my car washes and they had to disable their undercarriage sprayers. Now, this is how I roll.

Amazon.com: Tool Daily Dual-Function Undercarriage Cleaner,Surface Cleaner for Pressure Washer, 16 Inch, Underbody Car Wash Water Broom with 3 Pieces Extension Wand, 4000 PSI : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: Tool Daily Dual-Function Undercarriage Cleaner,Surface Cleaner for Pressure Washer, 16 Inch, Underbody Car Wash Water Broom with 3 Pieces Extension Wand, 4000 PSI : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

 

In East Rochester, NY, there is a place that sprays KROWN fluid 'film'---it's a biodegradable OILY spray---not sure what it's comprised of. I only put it on in November ( once a year ), even though lotsa people have it done in the Spring, too. If it snows early in October, and I have driven on salt covered roads BEFORE I get "slimed"---I have them give the underside a SALT BATH ( $20 extra ). It costs me $140 + tax for my car, $150 + tax for my pickup, so doing it TWICE a year is rather expensive. Some people swear by going to a car wash FIRST, to dislodge dirt & grime from underneath, so the film adheres to metal, not dirt ( I haven't done that, b/c both vehicles are driven less than 3000 miles a year ). IF I was using both for the usual 12K to 15K miles per year, then it makes sense. MECHANICS HATE how greasy & grimy everything is---but you have to do SOMETHING in the rust belt states to address the problem(s). Mechanics also HATE working on rusty cars & bolts that turn to dust, so it being oily underneath is probably the lesser evil. Lots of it seems to drip down on the driveway ( & looks horrific ), and you wonder IF they actually open up all the PLUGS they have drilled to spray inside doors, fenders, etc., but without any kind of precaution(s), cars here rust super fast. I also do NOT park inside the garage in the Winter, the heat from the motor warms up the garage & ACCELERATES the salt eating the car. I wait until Spring to get the underside pressure washed & rid of salt---some people wash ( or try ) once a week---but I want that oily stuff to stay thru Winter, not washed off. I've done it for five years now, so far, so good...No rust on my 2008 Avalon or my 1999 pickup ( bought the PU in 2018, Florida truck w/no rust ). The exhaust doesn't get sprayed, per se, but it gets overspray by accident ; driving home, it all burns OFF anyway ( people next to you at a stoplight while your car is smoking is unnerving, or following behind you after an application ). They try & spare the brakes, too, b/c you won't be able to stop ! October is also the time I clean out all the WEEP HOLES on the bottom of doors, by spraying WD-40 in each one until it flows out clear ( amazing how much debris flows out, as well ). I did buy a case of metal protectant from AMSOIL, which dries into a terrific waxy layer, but getting that stuff in your EYES, nose, mouth is horrendous ; so unless you have a LIFT & protective gear, it's not something you can DIY ( I use it on my snowblower, tho ).

 

I've driven here in the NE for over 22 years. Not one of my cars/trucks/SUVs has had rust other than atypical surface rust on some of the weld points. This is all because I wash the undercarriage three/four times a year and wax twice a year. Every carwash I wash the wheel wells too.

 

Best advice- run away, keep looking!

 

Looks like it spent 2 of its 3 yrs in the north east, it is known as the rust belt for a reason. Look for bubbling paint, in the lower rocker panels, look in the wheel wells, look for anywhere the metal has been weekend. To me that doesn’t look that bad, cars in the rust belt last 5-8 years depending on level of maintenance is performed on it some parts rust easier. Go under with a couple sockets. If bolts start falling apart instead of turning run away. If not see if they’ll knock off some dollar signs. If you’re in a non-rust area, clean up the surface rust you can get to and coat it with product like fluid film. Stay away from under coatings.

 

No, this does not look like a NE undercarriage. Like others have said, many of us have NE or rust belt duty HLs and there is no rust present like the OPs. This is excessive given the age/mileage.

 

How about cosmoline wax coating that is not readily washed off easily
Also its not supposed to attract dirt and filth like the sheep fat products seem to do

 

I like that I can remove FF anytime I want. These days I am using Woolwax instead. I will try blaster's surface shield. I also like a thick coating that creeps instead of a thin and stiff coating. I'd think better rust protection against rock chips. The other issue is preparation. I think that the protected surface needs to be 100% clean before applying cosmoline. Who knows, I may try it one of these days.

 

before I started using FF, I would wash my car weekly, but I still would see surface rust developing. Not much, but I still had some rust.

 

I had the most difficult time keeping the FF on body panels and the wheel liner bolts in the wheel well areas, it never stuck on long to protect

... Spent good coin to replace about 2 dozen weathered crusty nasty bolts with new
It made real difference in appearance

 

I had the most difficult time keeping the FF on body panels and the wheel liner bolts in the wheel well areas, it never stuck on long to protect

... Spent good coin to replace about 2 dozen weathered crusty nasty bolts with new
It made real difference in appearance

I have a box of Surface Shield coming. I wonder if I can apply it on top of FF. It could be a game changer because it doesn't wash out.

 

I have heard of the surface shield from the blaster corp? But have not sampled any yet

 

Blaster indeed

Blaster 12 oz. Long-Lasting Surface Shield Rust and Corrosion Protectant, Lubricant Spray 16-SS - The Home Depot

Blaster Surface Shield is the best defense for fighting rust. The lanolin-based formula provides complete corrosion protection for metal parts for up to 2-years. Plus, it's non-toxic, safe and low-VOC.

www.homedepot.com

 

I am no rust expert but that does not look bad, just looks like surface rust. But regardless, I would highly suggest you take it for a pre-purchase inspection. I suggest this to everyone buying any car. Even when I buy a used car from a dealership I tell them I want to have it inspected by an independent shop before purchase and I do. If they have any problem with it I move on.

 

The third picture which shows the muffler starting to rust out at the seam, is the one that tells me no way I want that vehicle. Muffler gave out on my 22 year old Echo. The outside was fine, but the baffles inside the muffler fell apart. The one in picture 3 could be leaking already and if stainless does that then what will it do to the painted undercarriage parts. Both of mine have holes in the bottom of the rockers where they were rust proofed. Not a fan of drilling holes in anything to rust proof it but they seem to have done a great job.