Toyota Forum banner
21 - 40 of 86 Posts
can we just stay on topic? The topic was rust on the undercarriage.
Simple if it has rust look elsewhere
Good chance it was just parked in the street most of its life.
The level of corrosion on the alloy and driveshafts is out of proportion to the visible rust on the steel.
The rust in the last photo is looking nasty and that could be lurking under the paint elsewhere.
Walk away.
 
Simple if it has rust look elsewhere
Good chance it was just parked in the street most of its life.
The level of corrosion on the alloy and driveshafts is out of proportion to the visible rust on the steel.
The rust in the last photo is looking nasty and that could be lurking under the paint elsewhere.
Walk away.
Again, this observation is misleading. Surface rust will occur on the undercarriage, so you can't just "look elsewhere" with simple, normal surface rust.

But I think there is something else here. The OP's example has far more rust than my 2018, which has spent its entire life in the NE. This is far more rust than just "parked in the street" would yield.
 
Again, this observation is misleading. Surface rust will occur on the undercarriage, so you can't just "look elsewhere" with simple, normal surface rust.

But I think there is something else here. The OP's example has far more rust than my 2018, which has spent its entire life in the NE. This is far more rust than just "parked in the street" would yield.
Yes the rust on the welds is normal mostly.
But there are areas there that it looks beyond a little surface rust.
Also the corrosion on the alloy is extensive for a 3 or 4 yr old vehicle.
The driveshaft rust level is ridiculous.
Even certain bolts are looking bad.
My 2019 had similar at first glance but it was just surface rust and it was washed often.
Alloy didn't look like that.
 
Yes the rust on the welds is normal mostly.
But there are areas there that it looks beyond a little surface rust.
Also the corrosion on the alloy is extensive for a 3 or 4 yr old vehicle.
The driveshaft rust level is ridiculous.
Even certain bolts are looking bad.
My 2019 had similar at first glance but it was just surface rust and it was washed often.
Alloy didn't look like that.
Agreed, I'm thinking this was beach duty, or possible flood vehicle. The OP says CA, then ME and they are in the Carolinas...this HL has been places


OP, IM me the VIN, I can do some checking.
 
I would pass on that for the reasons most others have mentioned. I’m from western NY, I now live in Fl. That level of rust indicates it was driven on a beach through surf or wet sand or it saw heavy snow and road salt. That honestly looks like a good 5-6 years of Buffalo/Rochester NY winter driven vehicles. For the price you’re going to be paying, you might as well get a clean one without rust. Everyone who mentions things Are not going to come apart is absolutely right. If you live in a state without a heavy winter snowfall where salt is hardly used then anytime you need work done they are going to up the labor because they will have to deal with rust, when I moved here from NY I transferred my job, I’m an auto technician, most of my coworkers have never used an oxy acetylene torch, I was dumbfounded, since I used one weekly in Rochester for 25 years. If the price was right and you live say in Chicago or Cleveland, they are used to rusty cars and it’s less an issue.
 
That rust looks excessive for the age of the vehicle. If it is flood damange, then there may be gremlins in some of the electrics.

RUN AWAY - there are plenty of other used cars from which to choose.
My 2020 Corolla got flooded back in September along with a bunch of neighbor's cars. My insurance company declared it a total loss. Story short, I got rid of my car, but my neighbors continued driving theirs.
 
Hi all. I've got a 24hr test drive for a 2019 Highlander XLE Limited/AWD (silver ext) with 39k miles on it. Vehicle history suggests it was a lease car in California, but all I know is that it's latest stop was a dealership (carmax) in Maine. I'm down in the Carolinas, so we don't have a lot of rusted cars....Not sure if this one spent a lot of time in Northeast or the coast where it could have gotten salt damage but curious if anyone with experience in this area thinks the attached pics should be reason enough NOT to purchase. Others (who haven't seen the attached pics) have told me rust is very normal, but this seems pretty bad to me.
Otherwise, car drives beautifully and interior in great shape.
Welcome opinions. Thanks in advance.


View attachment 406663 View attachment 406664 View attachment 406665 View attachment 406666 View attachment 406667 View attachment 406668 View attachment 406669
I think this was a post to show how little rust is act here
 
Do you use FF on the rubber parts? I have been avoiding the bushings and other rubber parts. I hear that they tend to swell on non oil resistant rubber parts. I am pretty sure Toyota rubbers are oil resistant, but I have never taken a chance.

2019 from the Midwest rust belt with 39k. Fluid Film applied every spring and fall.
View attachment 406842
 
In East Rochester, NY, there is a place that sprays KROWN fluid 'film'---it's a biodegradable OILY spray---not sure what it's comprised of. I only put it on in November ( once a year ), even though lotsa people have it done in the Spring, too. If it snows early in October, and I have driven on salt covered roads BEFORE I get "slimed"---I have them give the underside a SALT BATH ( $20 extra ). It costs me $140 + tax for my car, $150 + tax for my pickup, so doing it TWICE a year is rather expensive. Some people swear by going to a car wash FIRST, to dislodge dirt & grime from underneath, so the film adheres to metal, not dirt ( I haven't done that, b/c both vehicles are driven less than 3000 miles a year ). IF I was using both for the usual 12K to 15K miles per year, then it makes sense. MECHANICS HATE how greasy & grimy everything is---but you have to do SOMETHING in the rust belt states to address the problem(s). Mechanics also HATE working on rusty cars & bolts that turn to dust, so it being oily underneath is probably the lesser evil. Lots of it seems to drip down on the driveway ( & looks horrific ), and you wonder IF they actually open up all the PLUGS they have drilled to spray inside doors, fenders, etc., but without any kind of precaution(s), cars here rust super fast. I also do NOT park inside the garage in the Winter, the heat from the motor warms up the garage & ACCELERATES the salt eating the car. I wait until Spring to get the underside pressure washed & rid of salt---some people wash ( or try ) once a week---but I want that oily stuff to stay thru Winter, not washed off. I've done it for five years now, so far, so good...No rust on my 2008 Avalon or my 1999 pickup ( bought the PU in 2018, Florida truck w/no rust ). The exhaust doesn't get sprayed, per se, but it gets overspray by accident ; driving home, it all burns OFF anyway ( people next to you at a stoplight while your car is smoking is unnerving, or following behind you after an application ). They try & spare the brakes, too, b/c you won't be able to stop ! October is also the time I clean out all the WEEP HOLES on the bottom of doors, by spraying WD-40 in each one until it flows out clear ( amazing how much debris flows out, as well ). I did buy a case of metal protectant from AMSOIL, which dries into a terrific waxy layer, but getting that stuff in your EYES, nose, mouth is horrendous ; so unless you have a LIFT & protective gear, it's not something you can DIY ( I use it on my snowblower, tho ).
 
I've driven here in the NE for over 22 years. Not one of my cars/trucks/SUVs has had rust other than atypical surface rust on some of the weld points. This is all because I wash the undercarriage three/four times a year and wax twice a year. Every carwash I wash the wheel wells too.
 
I periodically go through a car wash with a under body flush/wash
I used to do this until the state got after all my car washes and they had to disable their undercarriage sprayers. Now, this is how I roll.

 
21 - 40 of 86 Posts