[fenixus]

Off-topic:

hehe, You figure out what was causing your noise yet?

I eliminated the brakes I think (they were not dragging recently). humming noise ... it's down to hub bearings on both sides and/or differential (or drive axles).
I found terrible resistance to wheel free spin on both sides. did some testing on all other suspension parts while there, but cannot say if any of them are bad or not, I have no experience on those things.

 

[fenixus]

lol, All i'm saying is I've seen vehicles that have cold idle issues and replacing the oxygen sensor is the fix. I've Personally had my hands on the sensor, the wrench, the car, shook the customers hand for fixing it, changed the same customers oil, tires, brakes as he kept coming back and never ever ever said the issue was still there.

thats all im saying

that's OK

I have just dropped my own 2 cents hehe. got my own deep shit trouble, so I cannot make full focus on other threads, I barely follow them now to be honest. just responding to single posts, nothing more.

 

[fenixus]

www.autoshop101.com/forms/h58.pdf

Go to "Open Loop" description below Closed Loop operation.

And here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/open-loop-closed-loop

+1

ECM is NOT using o2 sensors in Open Loop. It uses predefined fuel maps in such mode. O2 sensors are used only in Closed Loop. If there is any reason for ECM to stay in Open Loop always, then o2 sensors won't matter for it ever.

any and all error codes under Fail-Safe section of Diagnostics manual will throw car into a limp mode (ignoring o2 sensors).

 

[fenixus]

constant CEL flashing when diagnostic terminal jumpered means there is no codes IIRC. when it flashes and then pauses and then flashes again it's giving you a code (first series of flashes = first digit, pause, second series for second digit, etc. longer pause between different codes; they are repeated in a loop).

I replaced ECM on my 5s-fe, because I thought it was responsible for bad fuel trims... long story short, it wasn't

If you ever need to replace yours, get a junk yard pull from ebay at like $60-200 depending on availability.

 

[fenixus]

sounds like progress. reset ECU e.g. by disconnecting negative battery terminal for 2 minutes, put back, start the car, drive until warm and re-check codes.

14 is the fault in ignition signal to ECU. maybe bad igniter module, maybe loose plug or cracked insulation on wires.

 

[fenixus]

any trouble codes yet? they may require 2 trip logic to pop up.

sound like a misfire at idle, check those:
a) major vacuum leak
b) bad compression
c) IAC stuck
d) ECT sensor reporting wrong temp
e) blockage in either air or fuel delivery