Sounds like a worthy project! You might want to look at the RAV4 forums instead of the Venza. The RAV4 has been around a lot longer and has a much bigger community of modders compared to the Venza which is brand new (and hits a different demographic - less inclined to mod the vehicle).

 

...
There is a slight "hollow echo" in the vehicle when going over bumps I'm not sure what is causing it so sound dampening the roof will probably be needed. One thing I did notice in my last SUV by doing sound dampening was the air conditioner was much more efficient so doing the roof will probably benefit this the most.
...

You might check your tire pressure. If it's still pumped up to 50 psi from shipping, then the tires will "ring" (or "gong") when you drive over expansion joints and seams in the road. Once I reduced my tire pressure to the recommended setting, this road noise got better. The ecopia tires are pretty noisy in general (and rough riding). People have reported good luck reducing road noise by switching to Michelins.

After adjusting my tire pressure, I put a packing blanket in the spare tire well and that deadened road noise some more. I'm planning to line the spare tire well with peel-stick sound deadening when I have time. I'm starting there because of all the easily accessed exposed metal. (If I feel adventurous, I'd like to pull the side trim out of the cargo area and line the rear wheel wells too.)

 

...
Somewhere I found diagrams where there is already sound dampening in the roof but I do not know what or how much.
...

If you don't have StarGaze, then there are 4 main "roof silencer" pads in the roof and several smaller pads. I expect these are mostly just fiber filler material, the MSRP is only $11 each on the 4 big ones, so they can't be that dense (probably similar to the fluffy pad under the rear cargo deck).

ROOF HEADLINING & SILENCER PAD. 2021 Toyota Venza | Toyota

2021 Toyota Venza ROOF HEADLINING & SILENCER PAD

parts.toyota.com

 

Thank you Tim.s for the replies. The tire pressure per the dash shows the pressure is correct and I when these tires wear out I plan to get the Michelin Crossclimate 2 as others have mentioned. Also the diagram you posted is the one I saw. Thanks for letting me know what that sound dampening is. With the materials I'll be using (linked in my original post) will not get in the way of the factory sound dampening so it can go back in and help with the sound/insulation even more.

Just a quick note for those who want to do this, I saw in another thread someone mentioning he purchased dinomate but does not know how to proceed.

Tools you will need:
Auto Noise Roller Car Sound Deadener Application Installation Tool
Leather Hole Punch Cutter Round Hollow Hole Punch Cutter Tool
Interior Car Dashboard Door Panel Molding Clip Trim Open Plastic Pry Tool Set Kit
Rubbing alcohol and some rags
Not those tools specific, I just linked them to give you an idea what to get

Save the cardboard shipping boxes your product came in and other cardboard you may have from say Amazon deliveries. This will be used to make templates

Start on the least used door. For me this will be the right rear. You will learn as you go and by the time you get to the drivers door (where most of the road noise will effect you) your technique will be perfected.

I have not started yet on the Venza but things I'm expecting with the door panels: DO NOT USE ANY METAL TOOLS TO REMOVE PANELS OR COVERS TO PREVENT SCRATCHING, USE ONLY TOOLS FROM YOUR PRY TOOL KIT LINKED ABOVE
1) Remove the cloth insert in the handle area for pulling the door shut, remove the screw in the bottom
2) Remove the cover behind the door handle used to open the door, remove the screw in there

- I'm only going by memory of my last SUV so bear with me on this part -

4) The plastic surrounding the door handle where you just removed the screw should now be able to be removed
5) Look around the edges of the door card for any plastic philips head screws. These you can rotate them slowly with a phillips screw driver while trying to get your fingernail between the inner and outer part of this type of clip, then pull the center part out and the entire clip will now come out.
6) using your hands from the bottom up pull the door card (the plastic door covering that has all the interior door trim) away from the metal part of the door
7) Having the window open may aid this step - with door card free on all sides except the top, lift the door card up. Do not pull the door card away till any wires (lights / window switch) are disconnected
8) put door card in house for safe keeping and working on the door card in comfort
9) There will be a moisture barrier (probably a plastic sheet) covering the openings to the inner door, carefully remove this, we will be putting it back on. It probably has a black tar like substance holding it to the door. Try to keep that tar like substance either attached to the moisture barrier or the door, We will reuse this. Put the moisture barrier in a safe place, perhaps put some news paper down in the cargo area to protect your carpet and put the moisture barrier there.
10) Roll the window back up if you rolled it down. Use the cardboard you were saving to make a template of the inside of the door. You will use this template for the other door, just remember to reverse it. Inside the door you will find bracing. On my last SUV it was a round metal pipe, horizontal in the door against the outer skin of the door. Make a template for above this bracing, and another for below. using a large enough piece to cover the entire area, pushing it into the corners so it folds over will show you where to cut, does not have to be perfect. Some say you only need 10% coverage to get rid of the tinny sound, I'm going for as close to 100% coverage as I can.
11) As you push the cardboard against the outer skin you may find nuts, clips or other attachments for body molding, be sure to cut relief holes in the cardboard for them. This is needed in the event you or a mechanic needs access, it also will help you line up the sound dampening when we get to applying the sound dampening.
12) The last few steps are a pain but you will discover the best way to get your template in and out of the door as you make / perfect it. This will be critical knowledge for when you have the sticky side of the sound dampening exposed trying to get it in the door.
13) When you have your template made, trace it to the first layer of the sound dampening (the stuff with the metal backing). Use a razor blade to cut the sound dampening and your leather hole punches for any holes you made in step 11

** Use rubbing alcohol to clean the inside of the door skin and any surfaces in the future prior to attaching the sound dampening ** you can use any degreaser but you must make sure the surface is clean for proper adhesion. Rubbing alcohol will not leave a residue. From here on when I say rubbing alcohol, use what ever cleaner you feel comfortable with.

14) Put layer 1 in the door. You can leave the paper backing attached till in the door but be sure all the paper has been removed or it may not stick properly to the door. On my last SUV I rolled it to get it inside the door cavity. Unrolled it and lined it up using the holes indicated in step 11 the help hold it in place. Moved it away from the door skin and started removing the paper backing along the top, folded the paper down, put the sound dampening back against the door skin along the bottom first using the bottom of the door or door bracing and holes cut in step 11 to aid me. When I got to the top I pressed it down with my fingers then used the roller to adhere it further. Then carefully pull the bottom of the sound dampening away from the door skin, reach behind and slowly peal the paper backing away listening for any tears. Where the paper will want to tear is around the holes created in step 11. If you hear any tearing, stop, find the tear, and start again, pushing the sound dampening against the door skin as you go, removing the paper backing in 1 big piece.
15) Use your roller and adhere the sound dampening to the door. You will notice a pattern on the metal side of the dampening, keep rolling till that pattern is completely gone and smooth. Use a plastic pry bar from you removal tool kit to push the edges against the door skin you cant get the roller in.

Now that you have that layer in place, lightly knock on the outside of the door, now knock on a door you did not sound dampen. You will notice a big difference and a bit of satisfaction in your work. It gets allot easier from here on, you now know what your doing, the other doors is rinse and repeat. If you want to add sound dampening to the front, back and bottom of the door you can. I did, to kind of make a speaker box out of it.

16) Layer 2 - This is the foam sound dampening in smaller sections so easier to install. Again use your template and a razor blade to cut, a scissors can be used to cut the relief holes. You do not need the roller to attach this layer, just press really well with your hands. Using rubbing alcohol prior to adhering is recommended to remove any oils (skin) from layer 1.

Now here you can go really crazy to seal the inner door as I'm sure you have seen in videos how to install this stuff. I did not and it worked just fine. What ever you do, just remember if you have problems with the window motor or any other parts in the door, you will need access to the inner door and do not want to pay a mechanic his hourly salary to remove what ever you put on.

17) reattach the moisture barrier (What we put in the cargo area or you decide to fabricate). If you want to put speaker foam (such as this) now is the time to do it.

18) Door card - I used the layer 2 (foam sound dampening) on the back side of the door card. The SUV I did this too was older and this step helped remove any rattles in the door and vibrations caused by turning the volume up. It's up to you, just be sure to clean it. Reattach the door card in the reverse order (lower the window, hang card on top of the door, attach wires, push card against door for clips to attach them selves, replace screw behind door handle and put cover plate back on) lastly, the screw in the bottom of the handle for closing the door, prior to tightening this screw, push the door card against the door, perhaps have someone hold the door while pushing, then tighten the screw.

Done with that door, be sure to reverse your template for the opposite door.

Let me know if you have any questions. In a latter post I will revise this if I run into something on the Venza I did not in my last SUV, BTW that was a KIA Sorento.

 

Thank you Tim.s for the replies. The tire pressure per the dash shows the pressure is correct and I when these tires wear out I plan to get the Michelin Crossclimate 2 as others have mentioned. Also the diagram you posted is the one I saw. Thanks for letting me know what that sound dampening is. With the materials I'll be using (linked in my original post) will not get in the way of the factory sound dampening so it can go back in and help with the sound/insulation even more.

Just a quick note for those who want to do this, I saw in another thread someone mentioning he purchased dinomate but does not know how to proceed.

Tools you will need:
Auto Noise Roller Car Sound Deadener Application Installation Tool
Leather Hole Punch Cutter Round Hollow Hole Punch Cutter Tool
Interior Car Dashboard Door Panel Molding Clip Trim Open Plastic Pry Tool Set Kit
Rubbing alcohol and some rags
Not those tools specific, I just linked them to give you an idea what to get

Save the cardboard shipping boxes your product came in and other cardboard you may have from say Amazon deliveries. This will be used to make templates

Start on the least used door. For me this will be the right rear. You will learn as you go and by the time you get to the drivers door (where most of the road noise will effect you) your technique will be perfected.

I have not started yet on the Venza but things I'm expecting with the door panels: DO NOT USE ANY METAL TOOLS TO REMOVE PANELS OR COVERS TO PREVENT SCRATCHING, USE ONLY TOOLS FROM YOUR PRY TOOL KIT LINKED ABOVE
1) Remove the cloth insert in the handle area for pulling the door shut, remove the screw in the bottom
2) Remove the cover behind the door handle used to open the door, remove the screw in there

- I'm only going by memory of my last SUV so bear with me on this part -

4) The plastic surrounding the door handle where you just removed the screw should now be able to be removed
5) Look around the edges of the door card for any plastic philips head screws. These you can rotate them slowly with a phillips screw driver while trying to get your fingernail between the inner and outer part of this type of clip, then pull the center part out and the entire clip will now come out.
6) using your hands from the bottom up pull the door card (the plastic door covering that has all the interior door trim) away from the metal part of the door
7) Having the window open may aid this step - with door card free on all sides except the top, lift the door card up. Do not pull the door card away till any wires (lights / window switch) are disconnected
8) put door card in house for safe keeping and working on the door card in comfort
9) There will be a moisture barrier (probably a plastic sheet) covering the openings to the inner door, carefully remove this, we will be putting it back on. It probably has a black tar like substance holding it to the door. Try to keep that tar like substance either attached to the moisture barrier or the door, We will reuse this. Put the moisture barrier in a safe place, perhaps put some news paper down in the cargo area to protect your carpet and put the moisture barrier there.
10) Roll the window back up if you rolled it down. Use the cardboard you were saving to make a template of the inside of the door. You will use this template for the other door, just remember to reverse it. Inside the door you will find bracing. On my last SUV it was a round metal pipe, horizontal in the door against the outer skin of the door. Make a template for above this bracing, and another for below. using a large enough piece to cover the entire area, pushing it into the corners so it folds over will show you where to cut, does not have to be perfect. Some say you only need 10% coverage to get rid of the tinny sound, I'm going for as close to 100% coverage as I can.
11) As you push the cardboard against the outer skin you may find nuts, clips or other attachments for body molding, be sure to cut relief holes in the cardboard for them. This is needed in the event you or a mechanic needs access, it also will help you line up the sound dampening when we get to applying the sound dampening.
12) The last few steps are a pain but you will discover the best way to get your template in and out of the door as you make / perfect it. This will be critical knowledge for when you have the sticky side of the sound dampening exposed trying to get it in the door.
13) When you have your template made, trace it to the first layer of the sound dampening (the stuff with the metal backing). Use a razor blade to cut the sound dampening and your leather hole punches for any holes you made in step 11

** Use rubbing alcohol to clean the inside of the door skin and any surfaces in the future prior to attaching the sound dampening ** you can use any degreaser but you must make sure the surface is clean for proper adhesion. Rubbing alcohol will not leave a residue. From here on when I say rubbing alcohol, use what ever cleaner you feel comfortable with.

14) Put layer 1 in the door. You can leave the paper backing attached till in the door but be sure all the paper has been removed or it may not stick properly to the door. On my last SUV I rolled it to get it inside the door cavity. Unrolled it and lined it up using the holes indicated in step 11 the help hold it in place. Moved it away from the door skin and started removing the paper backing along the top, folded the paper down, put the sound dampening back against the door skin along the bottom first using the bottom of the door or door bracing and holes cut in step 11 to aid me. When I got to the top I pressed it down with my fingers then used the roller to adhere it further. Then carefully pull the bottom of the sound dampening away from the door skin, reach behind and slowly peal the paper backing away listening for any tears. Where the paper will want to tear is around the holes created in step 11. If you hear any tearing, stop, find the tear, and start again, pushing the sound dampening against the door skin as you go, removing the paper backing in 1 big piece.
15) Use your roller and adhere the sound dampening to the door. You will notice a pattern on the metal side of the dampening, keep rolling till that pattern is completely gone and smooth. Use a plastic pry bar from you removal tool kit to push the edges against the door skin you cant get the roller in.

Now that you have that layer in place, lightly knock on the outside of the door, now knock on a door you did not sound dampen. You will notice a big difference and a bit of satisfaction in your work. It gets allot easier from here on, you now know what your doing, the other doors is rinse and repeat. If you want to add sound dampening to the front, back and bottom of the door you can. I did, to kind of make a speaker box out of it.

16) Layer 2 - This is the foam sound dampening in smaller sections so easier to install. Again use your template and a razor blade to cut, a scissors can be used to cut the relief holes. You do not need the roller to attach this layer, just press really well with your hands. Using rubbing alcohol prior to adhering is recommended to remove any oils (skin) from layer 1.

Now here you can go really crazy to seal the inner door as I'm sure you have seen in videos how to install this stuff. I did not and it worked just fine. What ever you do, just remember if you have problems with the window motor or any other parts in the door, you will need access to the inner door and do not want to pay a mechanic his hourly salary to remove what ever you put on.

17) reattach the moisture barrier (What we put in the cargo area or you decide to fabricate). If you want to put speaker foam (such as this) now is the time to do it.

18) Door card - I used the layer 2 (foam sound dampening) on the back side of the door card. The SUV I did this too was older and this step helped remove any rattles in the door and vibrations caused by turning the volume up. It's up to you, just be sure to clean it. Reattach the door card in the reverse order (lower the window, hang card on top of the door, attach wires, push card against door for clips to attach them selves, replace screw behind door handle and put cover plate back on) lastly, the screw in the bottom of the handle for closing the door, prior to tightening this screw, push the door card against the door, perhaps have someone hold the door while pushing, then tighten the screw.

Done with that door, be sure to reverse your template for the opposite door.

Let me know if you have any questions. In a latter post I will revise this if I run into something on the Venza I did not in my last SUV, BTW that was a KIA Sorento.

Do you have any pictures of the sound deadening you did on the front doors? I haven't put any additional dampening yet on the door card but may do so later.

Below are two pictures of my sound deadening of the front passenger door. I reconnected the OEM speaker using regular screws and bolts (only two would fit).
Not shown: I removed a bit of deadening where the three large plugs connect to the frame to allow a snug fit of the large plastic plate that covers the giant hole.

Below are some pictures of sound deadening that I put in the spare tire chamber.

 

Thanks for the details! I bought a box of Kilmat and after putting a few squares into the spare tire area, I'm looking for the next-easiest job! I'm scared of doing more harm than good, by introducing rattles (which annoy me more than outside noise!). Please, please, please take copious amounts of photos as you do this ... smartphones now make that easy and are surprisingly good for the task.

I did have my roof-liner removed as part of a repair to my rooftop antenna. So I got just a few pictures of that. When poking around in the spare tire area, I found two 'clips' that presumably fell off during the mechanic's adventures with the roof and side panels ... not a good sign.

One question - I've previously bought a 'kit' or 'set' of push-in retainer/clips, but none matched the ones I removed from my roof-liner - Amazon.com: Hilitchi 200pcs Automotive Black Nylon Push Type Retainer Assortment Kit for Toyota GM Ford Honda Peugeot Chrysler (200pcs): Automotive . Even just removing once seems to degrade their function, so having replacements seems prudent. Also - related - are there 'screw in' replacements that one can buy? I know that for the manufacturers, they want fast/easy, so clips are the way to go but I'd prefer to replace these things with something with a 'screw head' so I can more easily remove and replace.

Here are some pictures of the rear roof-liner area, FWIW ...
Releasing the rear 'pillar' (my terminology is probably not good - don't know car terms!) cover, which is a pre-req to dropping the roof liner. This is the horizontal view from the back, with hatch open. Note the color-coded clips; these are yellow but there are all manner of different colors - red, purple, etc.

This is a view 'down' into the cavity, after releasing the 'pillar'; note the purple clip:

Here's a diagram I drew; very rudimentary but something to build on!

And this is a view into the roof cavity, after lowering the roof liner just a bit (I'm nowhere near confident or adventurous enough to go for full removal yet!).

My goal at the time was simply to get to the underside of the antenna, and that's what this is. But you can see the roof sheet-metal, and you can see the cross-bracing at the bottom of the picture.

Below are two clips I found in the rear trunk area; presumably casualties from the body shop after they removed / replaced the roof liner as part of my antenna job. There are also Purple and Yellow variants, obviously each color has a purpose. On the right is the simple 'push in' clip that retains the roofliner at the back (top / center, as you look up from the rear, with the hatch open; there are three of them close together). As you can see, after just one 'removal', they look worse for wear and I'd like to find replacements!

 

Thank you Steerpike for the pics.

I wish I could help you about the clips you found near the spare tire but i have not started yet and not sure when I actually will. I'm currently in the process of buying some land and building a house out in the country. I know, bad timing. This is something I was saving up for, for quite some time and just found a piece of land ideal for what I'm planning.

I have done this before, just not the Venza so I will/can help you. The black one is quite common and should not give you a problem with noise or retainability. I have not done it but others in videos I've seen wrap connectors in tesa tape and also use tesa tape for other parts that may rattle, wires, door lock control rods etc. The White and red in your pic, till you (we) find others the same in the Venza, we can't be sure they came from your vehicle. I'm not sure but I believe they use the tesa tape on the part that hooks onto the plastic panel (the bottom parts in your pic of the white and red ones), not the part that goes into the metal.

If you want to buy new clips you can but I dont think you will have a problem with the black ones rattling. I'm conserned about the ones designed to break when the panel is removed like I heard about the ones covering the air bag on the A pillar (the one between the front door and the windshield).

 

I finally got started on this project (Sorry for the wait but life happens). In another thread someone asked how to open the cargo door covers

1. remove center section closest to the head liner (Hinges) - The bottom part in first image below, note how it clips around the outer side pieces

 

2. Remove the warning cover first, it will slide just a bit up and down in its hole, slide it down then pry on the top using a plastic interior removal tool and it will come right out. Remove the close button panel in the same manner. Since this will be a several day project after removing all parts I reinstalled the close button panel as shown in the second photo below

 

3. Remove the main center body, reference the below photo for location of retainers. Removing the small cover for access to the emergency door open gave me a good access point to slowly pull till retainers began loosening and I worked my way around the panel from there.

 

lastly, remove side covers

 

More to come

 

More to come View attachment 377071

I want to add dynamat dampening and 3M thinsulate for the wheel well areas, and the hatch. On the rough highways, what I observed is lot of boomy noise coming from the wheel well area (probably transferred from suspension). I think same thing happening from front wheel well area. These are two things along with engine firewall insulation I am thinking of doing.

 

I hope your results turn out great. I know that is a tremendous amount of work. I know most of the road noise comes from the road up and thru the doors and windows. Doing the roof may not gain all that much.

 

A bare ceiling

 

After cleaning with rubbing alcohol, install the butyl sheeting. Notice the diamond-shaped bumps closest to the camera sheet. Press all those out to adhere the sheeting to the metal

 

Next is the Heat and Sound Insulation. This can be pressed on with your hand.

 

Finished, my neck is still soar from looking up but the ceiling is back in place. Other than removing the center console and carpet to do the floor (Which I'm not planning to tackle) the hardest part is done.
See the before and after. This dampening is not only for sound but will also aid in heating and cooling. I noticed a big difference in my last vehicle the AC and Heater did not have to work as hard

 

Finished, my neck is still soar from looking up but the ceiling is back in place. Other than removing the center console and carpet to do the floor (Which I'm not planning to tackle) the hardest part is done.
See the before and after. This dampening is not only for sound but will also aid in heating and cooling. I noticed a big difference in my last vehicle the AC and Heater did not have to work as hard

Hats off to you! That looks great! Thanks for Sharing!
I bet dampens lot of noise during the rain. I observed lot of rain drop noise coming from the roof during the rain.
I wish I have your skill and guts!!

 

This is a great post, thanks for sharing!

I have a Limited trim with the JBL stereo and one thing that bothers me is when I play music with certain bass lines, even at a moderate volume, there is a significant vibration from the driver (and presumably passenger too) door panel. It makes for a fairly noticeable rattling sound and I can feel the door panel itself moving (kinda like a giant eardrum).

Would adding some dynamat/kilmat to the inside of the door eliminate this? Or perhaps adding it to the inside of the door panel itself to stiffen it?

Also… how does one remove the door panel, exactly?

 

Adding Noico Liner Car Heat and Sound Insulation on the backside of the door card will fix this. Not only dampen the vibration but put slight pressure between areas the door card comes in contact with whatever it may be touching on the inside of the door.

I have not removed the door cards yet but the way I am sound dampening other interior panels is - On the backside, you will see ribs, around the edges, use those as a guide where not to go beyond. Inspect where there are any moving parts (rods that may go between the door handle and door catch) ensure none of what you add for sound dampening interferes with these parts.

While you are there I'd add as much Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener to the inside of the door on the door skin followed by the sound insulation linked above. Think of it as making a Bass box. By doing this it will really bring out the mid-range of the stereo not to mention cut down on road noise. On my last vehicle I did this not only on the door skin but the frame (bottom and sides) anywhere I could reach literally making a resonance chamber inside the door pocket. This was a 2004 Kia Sorento with factory speakers. Passengers could not believe the quality of sound that came from factory speakers and I heard instruments in the music I never knew were there.

Another thing you can do to put a little pressure between the door card and the speaker is add Speaker Enhancer System Sponge Kit. Not only will it add pressure but help direct the sound.

 

Oh WOW. I have not touched the doors yet, sound deadened behind the molding on the pilar between front and back doors. I still have the interior molding removed from the cargo area including the entire back seat.

I sound deadend just the roof last week and today I did the rear inner fenders and half of the wheel wells the car is now as quiet as The day I purchased it even with all these parts removed.

When I finish the wheel wells and replace all the moldings (which I am sound deadening) then the doors?

I can't wait

BTW I also sound deadened the plastic surrounding the drive battery. I noticed allot of the sound I thought was coming from the electric motors is actually from the battery. This is more evident with the back seat removed

 

I got the car back together yesterday after sound dampening as much as I could on the metal parts (1 layer of Butyl followed by 1 layer of foam) and put a layer of foam on the back side of all plastic parts. This made a big difference in the sound. I still have the doors to go. With how quiet the car is now I don't think the doors will help much but the doors will help the speakers tremendously by bringing out more mid range.

One thing I did that I think really helped (please note the attached photo) I removed the 3 plastic parts surrounding the battery and put 1 layer of foam on the back side of these. Also notice in the photo the black mat behind the battery and between the wheel wells. That mat is not attached to the floor. It is rubber with a felt backing. I raised that up and put 1 layer of Butyl under neath it. These 2 things alone made a huge difference.

now even on the carpet I bet I could hear a pin drop


Firewall. I'd love to tackle this but even if I removed the seats, center console, and carpet I probably will only gain access to half of it due to the dash and all the components behind that. A friend suggested removing the inner fender (The plastic part behind the front wheels) and add sound dampening there. I'm a bit leery about doing this because if water gets between the butyl and the metal it will promote rust. On the interior of the car you are only dealing with humidity (or spilled drinks) but on the outside of the cabin. I know it will decrease the sound a lot, the front is the only place I'm hearing noise now but.

One more little secret I installed while I was at it. I have the upgraded JBL system but Toyota programs their units to cut half of the base notes to prevent blown speakers. My solution. It fits under the cargo floor with no problem. The foam tray for the jack does not fit. in order to keep all original parts in pristine condition. I purchased an extra jack tray to cut up separating the jack from the rest of the tools which will fit toward the bumper side of the spare tire.

I would like opinions on the idea of sound deadening the front wheel wells only on the firewall.

 

BTW I purchased the JBL base pro hub via Crutchfield. It was more expensive through them than other places but what you get for the extra money is well worth it. One item, in particular, is a detailed document explaining how to disassemble the interior of the vehicle with wiring diagrams for the head unit, speakers, and amplifier. This document is for our 2nd gen Venza. The wire for the remote I started at the center console routing the wire out the back, then between the floor and frame of the front passenger seat. Under the door molding, back seat, then came out by the spare tire. I ensured all wires were long enough so the speaker can be set on the ground in the event I have to ever use the spare tire.

Please note the speaker wires are not near the power or ground wire. This is to prevent any bleed over noise.

 

I sound dampened one rear door so far and noticed the door handle cup is not illuminated on the back doors of my XLE. The illuminated cups linked in this video for Rav 4 says in the Q&A will fit our Venza and appear brighter than the factory ones. I have them on the way and will report back once one is installed. Also, the video says they do not dim with the rest of the interior lighting but since ours come with these for the front I will also check on that.

Please note the comment I struck out. these parts do not fit our Venza. The parts for the front doors are PNC 81080H and PNC 81080L but I can't figure out how to order from Toyota

 

BTW the modification done to the jack insert tray mentioned above worked great. I will post a pic of where I cut if anyone is interested.

Please share the modification for Jack insert.
OEM Jack provided is longer than spare wheel inner side. Not sure how it is fitting in case of RAV4. Ideally, I wanted the jack to fit into temp spare wheel(where you have Subwoofer).

I would like opinions on the idea of sound deadening the front wheel wells only on the firewall.

I got a chance to drive the car yesterday for a trip about almost 11 hours, about 700 miles. Before the trip, I did dampen rear spare tire area, rear wheel wells, added 3M Thinsulate too(not to the level you did, I knock tested and applied Dynamat where it felt hollow, but back side of spare wheel well needed 2+ layers of CLD.) I did 4 doors while ago.

On smoother surface the drive was butter smooth (with Yokohama AVID Ascent GT 18 inch).
On rougher surface also this tire smoothens the ride extremely well, I almost do not feel Road Markers/reflectors. But there is still some vibration and noise transferred to suspension mount points and in to the cabin on very rough surface. Most of the noise is coming from the Front tire/suspension. Not the back. We definitely need to dampen that front suspension mount point to firewall area. I am thinking adding couple of layers of CLD/Dynamat starting from Suspension mount to firewall would help(inside the engine bay).

But overall ride was much better, quieter and comfortable. There was hardly any wind noise(usual wind rushing). Only in cross winds we will hear some. Even at 80MPH we could talk to back seat passengers without raising voice. I did add some additional door seals at the seems, not sure how much those seals contributed(see the photos).

Also, there is hardly any engine noise at all. Only on rapid acceleration, I hear some muted growl(which I think is good). I think hood seals definitely helped from engine sound leaking out of engine bay.

I had similar trips in my Tesla Model 3 previously, despite it was blissfully quiet on the smoother surfaces, it was brutal on rougher surface where I feel every sand grain, and the cabin sounds like inside an empty drum.

BTW, about the door, I think you will definitely see the difference as these are vast flat areas without creases or reinforcement and vibrate very easy. These doors cover vast area of cabin compartment. So it would make considerable difference, not only for the Audio, even for quietness, esp reducing outside noise, tire rumble resonating inside the cabin.

 

I have a pioneer powered sub for under the seat I took out of my last vehicle but did not use in the veza because I did not see room for it. That's why I got the JBL Bass Pro Hub

 

Yes, that JBL you got is great. But it is little bit on expensive side for me.
Also, I want to avoid running the line-in wires all the way to back, rather I would run 12v+ power to the front passenger seat. Still haven't decided which one. I was thinking I should go with 10inch sub which might go little lower in frequency compared to subs with 8inch drivers. Also, smaller subs needs more power for same db output which is not a good thing for efficiency, gauge of wire required etc..

 

Sound dampening inside the doors is now complete. It was difficult to get pics and I was not able to sound dampen as extensively as I wanted due to the confined space. Below pics are of the front drivers side door

Removing the door cards was simple. Remove the felt in the bottom of the door pull and the plastic cover behind the door handle using a plastic pry tool between the lock and the cover, then the screws behind those two. Starting along the bottom edge of the door using your hands pull the door card away from the door. It will be hard to pull but it will come off. Continue working your way up the door till all clips are free.

Remove the wiring harness by squeezing the button and pulling on the connector.

Remove the two cables by pulling the plastic (One green One white, NOTE: white is on top on all four doors) away from the door then lift up and the ball end will come out of its socket.

Any white plastic keepers that remained on the metal part of the door remove by using plastic pry tools and put back on the door card in their respective locations.

PLEASE NOTE: The white plastic clips have a very thin black paper/cloth ring to reduce vibration noise. These may fall off during the removal process, inspect the ground beneath the door for any that may be missing.

Assemble in reverse order.

The third pic above (the one showing the lone wire). removing the clip holding the wire to the door is a simple process once you know how the clip works and will give your hands more room to work. Slide the clip up, pull the bottom away from the door slightly and insert a plastic pry tool from the bottom. This will depress the prong keeping the clip in place allowing you to pull the bottom out further. Now slide the clip down and do the same to the top till removed.

I sound dampened all doors using Butyl as far as I was able to reach. The metal roller for adhering the Butyl to the metal I was not able to reach far enough so I used the longest plastic pry tool (that had a rounded end so it would not rip the aluminum backing) and put pressure to adhere it. The foam was much easier to apply but still was not able to reach all areas.

The below pic shows a round disc. This goes on the door skin behind the speaker. Due to the door bracing inside the read doors I was not able to do this. Also, the speakers are pop-riveted in place so removing them could have helped but would create its own problem. I used foam to sound deaden the backside of the door card and put the ring from the below pic around the speaker hole on the door card. Here is a link to the below.

 

Sound dampening inside the doors is now complete. It was difficult to get pics and I was not able to sound dampen as extensively as I wanted due to the confined space. Below pics are of the front drivers side door

View attachment 380606 View attachment 380607 View attachment 380609 View attachment 380608 View attachment 380610

Removing the door cards was simple. Remove the felt in the bottom of the door pull and the plastic cover behind the door handle using a plastic pry tool between the lock and the cover, then the screws behind those two. Starting along the bottom edge of the door using your hands pull the door card away from the door. It will be hard to pull but it will come off. Continue working your way up the door till all clips are free.

Remove the wiring harness by squeezing the button and pulling on the connector.

Remove the two cables by pulling the plastic (One green One white, NOTE: white is on top on all four doors) away from the door then lift up and the ball end will come out of its socket.

Any white plastic keepers that remained on the metal part of the door remove by using plastic pry tools and put back on the door card in their respective locations.

PLEASE NOTE: The white plastic clips have a very thin black paper/cloth ring to reduce vibration noise. These may fall off during the removal process, inspect the ground beneath the door for any that may be missing.

Assemble in reverse order.

The third pic above (the one showing the lone wire). removing the clip holding the wire to the door is a simple process once you know how the clip works and will give your hands more room to work. Slide the clip up, pull the bottom away from the door slightly and insert a plastic pry tool from the bottom. This will depress the prong keeping the clip in place allowing you to pull the bottom out further. Now slide the clip down and do the same to the top till removed.

I sound dampened all doors using Butyl as far as I was able to reach. The metal roller for adhering the Butyl to the metal I was not able to reach far enough so I used the longest plastic pry tool (that had a rounded end so it would not rip the aluminum backing) and put pressure to adhere it. The foam was much easier to apply but still was not able to reach all areas.

The below pic shows a round disc. This goes on the door skin behind the speaker. Due to the door bracing inside the read doors I was not able to do this. Also, the speakers are pop-riveted in place so removing them could have helped but would create its own problem. I used foam to sound deaden the backside of the door card and put the ring from the below pic around the speaker hole on the door card. Here is a link to the below.
View attachment 380611

Great job!

Does anyone have a video of the process to remove the door panels? I’d love to do this too but am wary of breaking something.

 

Sound dampening to my car is now complete, or as far as I'm willing to go.

The Roof got one layer of Butyl and one layer of foam on all metal surfaces. Before this process, I noticed the lights for the vanity mirrors were hot when getting into the car due to heat radiating through the metal. I am surprised they are still warm after adding the foam.

The entire area from the battery back (floor, fenders, and wheel wells including spare tire area). I used one layer of Butyl and one layer of foam on all metal surfaces and then one layer of foam on the backside of all plastic interior panels including the plastic surrounding the battery (not covering the filter).

For the lift gate due to the electric motors, I did not want to add weight so I only put foam on the backside of the panel.

For the doors (see the last post) I did the same as the cargo area. To reduce wind noise I installed WellVisors Window Visors Wind Deflectors For Toyota Venza 2021-2022 Chrome Trim Rain Guards 3-847TY065
These things hug the body so well when standing in front of the car they are barely noticeable.

One major sound/handling improvement is Michelin CrossClimate 2 tires. I can not praise these enough.

You will note I have the JBL upgraded sound system which did add more sound dampening in spots. Mostly just white pillows attached to the backs of body panels. Also my venza is the XLE. I do not know the version I test drove but I constantly thought I heard police sirens during the test drive which later I found out was the hybrid system. Before this sound dampening I did hear the police siren sound but not as much as the test model. After the sound dampening, What siren? Seriously the sound from the hybrid system has been almost completely eliminated.

I still hear some wind noise coming near the top of the door but the stereo easily drowns that out. I don't know how low will drown the wind noise out but 10 will do it. I added the JBL Basspro Hub which mounts over the spare tire. I did this because Toyota programs their head units to cut the bass notes in half in an attempt to prevent speakers from blowing. I do not have this turned up very loud, just enough to bring those bass notes back into the music and be noticed without drowning out any of the other notes. On those songs you just have to hear loud I used to turn the volume up to 40 and it was LOUD. Now with the sound dampening, 30 is LOUD, 25 even on some songs is too much.

 

You will note I have the JBL upgraded sound system which did add more sound dampening in spots. Mostly just white pillows attached to the backs of body panels. Also my venza is the XLE. I do not know the version I test drove but I constantly thought I heard police sirens during the test drive which later I found out was the hybrid system. Before this sound dampening I did hear the police siren sound but not as much as the test model. After the sound dampening, What siren? Seriously the sound from the hybrid system has been almost completely eliminated.

Even LE models has those white pillows in the door cards, Even those are there behind the panels in the cargo area, behind glovebox, rear doors. But in the doors, coverage is not full.

Siren, are you referring to Pedestrian Warning system below 21mph when car is running in EV only mode(it does not make that noise if engine is running)? That is not very loud in forward mode, but louder during reverse.
I am not sure how we can reduce it unless we install additional firewall insulation and Hood insulation. Frankly I hear it more from windows, adding the seal over the headlight did reduce it somewhat.

 

That door seal kit maybe worth looking into, but stopping short on the bottom of the back door is a mystery

 

Does it make a difference in road noise? I see you changed tires and did that help?

 

Tires make considerable difference in comfort and noise. There is no question about it.
On the other hand, seals I don't know if these helped or not. But they did help keeping the sills clean.
Overall after door dampening and insulation, cargo area dampening and insulation, hood seals, Tires and these seals, it is pretty quiet and comfortable. Even the Audio volume required to listen is considerable lower even on rougher roads. So, there is no question of benefit with these changes.

If I have to make an unbiased guess, this is the order I will go.
1. Tires
2. Doors
3. Hood Seals (engine noise leakage reduced)
4. Rear Cargo area, inside rear fenders/strut tower area, rear door
5. Roof(during the rain, I would be put this at priority 2)
6. Hood insulation
6. Front Fender, strut tower area.
7. Door seals (keep the area clean, and probably help with some wind noise).