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sound deadning

38K views 239 replies 41 participants last post by  tonystewart  
#1 ·
its a slow process but i got my acc. doors and my main doors done, it has made a diff in road noise next is the roof :)
 
#2 ·
Yeah, it makes a big difference to road noise, and the sound quality of your sound system. I did my roof a few days ago. I'm actually in the middle of doing my doors right now. So far I have sprayed the whole interior of the doors with a lot of CAE liquid dampener. Right now I'm making plastic panels to cover the big holes in the door, to make it more of a sealed enclosure. Then I will add RaamMat to the door, and then ensolite overtop of the RaamMat.
 
#3 ·
ensolite and the raamat in my doors also working on the stereo stuff
 
#4 ·
Hey Pb, I think it works out better when you use the Raammat directly to the door, and then paint on top of the Raammat. That's what I've always read.

I just use Raammat and Ensolite foam.

Also, Ensolite blocks much more roadnoise than just deadener, so where you are wanting to stop roadnoise, make sure to use the foam as well. I plan to use it everywhere.
 
#5 · (Edited)
cam2Xrunner said:
Hey Pb, I think it works out better when you use the Raammat directly to the door, and then paint on top of the Raammat. That's what I've always read.

I just use Raammat and Ensolite foam.

Also, Ensolite blocks much more roadnoise than just deadener, so where you are wanting to stop roadnoise, make sure to use the foam as well. I plan to use it everywhere.
Yeah, that's what I did. I only did the liquid stuff inside the door, between the two skins of sheet metal, where the window is. I applied it to the back of the outer skin. On the inner skin I put the RaamMat on bare paint, as usual. Comprende?

I used ensolite everywhere, even behind the little plastic 'sails' that hide the side mirror bolts.

;)
 
#8 ·
Thanks Pb... I actually wouldn't mind doing a complete sound deadening job but I think the doors are the only thing I am capable of doing on my own. I've tried looking for a step by step tutorial on sound deadening the entire cab but so far nothing so I have no idea of where to start.
 
#11 ·
Pb2theMax said:
Yeah, it makes a big difference to road noise, and the sound quality of your sound system. I did my roof a few days ago. I'm actually in the middle of doing my doors right now. So far I have sprayed the whole interior of the doors with a lot of CAE liquid dampener. Right now I'm making plastic panels to cover the big holes in the door, to make it more of a sealed enclosure. Then I will add RaamMat to the door, and then ensolite overtop of the RaamMat.
I hope the Cascade liquid stuff isnt water soluble like it was 8 or 9 years ago. If it is, your going to have a mess on your hands when it rains...
 
#13 ·
Pb2theMax said:
Yeah, that's what I did. I only did the liquid stuff inside the door, between the two skins of sheet metal, where the window is. I applied it to the back of the outer skin. On the inner skin I put the RaamMat on bare paint, as usual. Comprende?

I used ensolite everywhere, even behind the little plastic 'sails' that hide the side mirror bolts.

;)

Awesome :D I can't wait to do the rest of my interior.
 
#14 ·
setyn7 said:
Will sound deadening the roof take care of the in-cab light housing rattling when the bass gets loud? Or is there an easier way to stop these things from rattling without deadening? Honestly the rattling from those things is just too much to ignore.

I find in my truck, it's not the body metal itself rattling, it's more the interior panels. What I'm going to do is deaden the interior panels with raammat and/or a paint on deadener, then have a layer of ensolite on the panel and a layer on the deadened body metal. This way the panel won't rattle against the metal, there will be two layers of ensolite.
 
#15 · (Edited)
cam2Xrunner said:
I find in my truck, it's not the body metal itself rattling, it's more the interior panels. What I'm going to do is deaden the interior panels with raammat and/or a paint on deadener, then have a layer of ensolite on the panel and a layer on the deadened body metal. This way the panel won't rattle against the metal, there will be two layers of ensolite.
I thought about doing that, but in some areas the extra thickness might prevent them from fastening down good. :dunno: I guess you would just have to watch where you put it.
 
#16 ·
Choops said:
I hope the Cascade liquid stuff isnt water soluble like it was 8 or 9 years ago. If it is, your going to have a mess on your hands when it rains...
I used Quiet Kote VB-1S Pro. I know for a fact that it isn't water soluble. I got some of it on my arm and the only thing that would get it off was rubbing it with Goo Gone.

:)
 
#17 ·
I ran into some clearance issues when I did my truck this week. I ended up using Teklite which is made by Elemental Designs for you who don't know. It's like ensolite, however, it's a 1/4 inch thick and it has it's own adhesive right on the back. I ended up putting a layer of this on the roof, floor, and all four doors. The door panels were a bitch to put back on because of how thick this stuff is. However, it was VERY easy to cut and lay. What was nice is after you get the roof done you can use the paper backing as a template for all your other pieces.

I deadened my entire truck and the only thing that rattles is the bed itself, yes, the ENTIRE bed rattles, go figure. There are a couple of pieces that rattle in the interior, but not very noticeable. When I finally got to drive my truck around, I couldn't believe how much of a difference this made. I had a good laugh when I pulled into the parking lot at WAWA last night. I had my stereo cranked and I pulled up next to a car full of teenagers. They really didn't pay attention to me, or my stereo until I opened the door. Should of seen the look on their faces. Kinda like this :eek:

Classic!
 
#19 ·
Jason372923 said:
... realize you'll make a few mistakes (such as breaking a clip here and there)...
Guys,

Where do you buy the white clips to replace ones that broken during pulling off door panels etc?

I broken couple already when I experimented with the rear door months ago. I don't have a big window of time to deaden everything at once, so I will have to pull one thing apart, work on it, put it back and repeat again later. So I anticipate I will break quite a few of those.:sosad:
 
#20 ·
Has anyone seen a good "sound proofing" primer anywhere online? I always see people talking about this paint, or that mat, or whatever, but little discussion of what, how or why.

I'm not really into the whole sound system thing much, but it would be nice to cut down on some road noise.
 
#21 ·
hcarman said:
Guys,

Where do you buy the white clips to replace ones that broken during pulling off door panels etc?

I broken couple already when I experimented with the rear door months ago. I don't have a big window of time to deaden everything at once, so I will have to pull one thing apart, work on it, put it back and repeat again later. So I anticipate I will break quite a few of those.:sosad:
You are breaking the clips around the perimeter of the door panel? I have taken all 4 of my door panels off several times and haven't broken anything. Maybe it's your method of pulling them loose. They are pretty good clips. They don't have the one-way fins like lots of older vehicles do. You should be able to install and remove these door panels several times without any problems. This is probably the easier door panel I've ever removed.

Once I have the plastic pin and the two screws removed I grab hold of the lip that sticks out on the door jamb side of the door panel. Then just pull straight out real hard. Half of them should come loose, then you just move to the bottom and pull again. Once they are all loose, just lift straight up on the door panel. Be careful with this last step if you have window tint.

Once the panel is loose I reach under and push up on the window/door lock control panel and pop it out, then I set the door panel back on, slightly, just enough to hold the door panel while I disconnect the plug from the switch. On the plug there's a little nub you have to push in to get the plug to slide out. I use a small screw driver to push on the nub.
 
#22 ·
spag said:
Has anyone seen a good "sound proofing" primer anywhere online? I always see people talking about this paint, or that mat, or whatever, but little discussion of what, how or why.

I'm not really into the whole sound system thing much, but it would be nice to cut down on some road noise.
You might want to check the Audio, Video & Security forum for more info. Use the search.
 
#23 ·
Broke one so far, one by the speaker on rear door if I remember correctly. It didn't break at the fin part that goes into the door. It broke on the base part goes into the panel.

I started pulling from the bottom first and kind of hesitant pull. I will try from side first and quick, clean pull next time.

Still if anyone know where to get the clips, please post.
 
#26 ·
damn i want to sound deaden my truck just for the sake of gettin rid of road noise and makin the cab a quieter place to be. but i dont have any experience doin that kind of stuff and i hear it is very expensive to have it done by pros.:)