The AE92 doesn't have a starter relay, it relies on the starting current going through the key switch barrel then to the solenoid on the starter motor. The later models (AE101 onwards) have a starter relay, which means the key switch only switches a small current to the coil in the relay, rather than trying to switch a large current for the starter itself. Over time the key switch contacts get worn and fails to supply the full load current. This link shows you the simple relay upgrade. Otherwise, you're going to have to find a new ignition barrel key switch thingy. Hope this helps!

 

This link shows you the simple relay upgrade.

Hi there, thanks for that. I noticed the relay in that upgrade is 60A, is that okay for an AE92, and any idea of what gauge wire is being used?

 

So yesterday I tried bypassing the key switch barrel, it still clicked, so I removed the starter cleaned it up put it back in and it started first go, however, its since continued the clicking until I either switch the key on/off rapidly or tap on the starter, so I assume it's the brushes - they did look a bit worn? Does anyone know the part number for brushes only, the only replacement I can find might be like these ones: SB6002 | Starter brush sets ?

 

Contacts easy to replace

Info on 4AFE 1992 corolla starter repair kit.

I have the 1992 corolla sedan (non 4WD). After some searching and measuring, this is the info one can use to replace their starter contacts and plunger. DORMAN 02349 which contains all the starter contact parts and plastic terminals, but not the plunger or the square gasket for the plungers...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Kit_Kat_Kiwi, you still don't know if your starter solenoid is working properly or if the issue resides within the starter motor. You can do a quick diagnosis to understand where the problems resolves. Best to do this with 2 people.

Assuming your starter looks like the one in the attached pictures below.

Starting with picture 530, the smaller wire with black connector is the wiring coming from the switch. The wire that has the red electrical tape at the solenoid connection is the wire coming directly from the battery cable. With a DVOM or 12VDC trouble light, make sure you have power on the cable with the red tape. Next, have someone at the ignition turn the key to start - another at the solenoid listening and/or feeling the solenoid to ensure it is energizing when the key is turned to start - if it only clicks, you should hear the click in the solenoid or feel the solenoid make that sound when it is energized. You could also probe the back of the black wiring harness connector to make sure it is getting 12VDC when the key is turned to the start position.

Assuming the above checks out good, but the starter solenoid still only clicks, go to picture 531. On that picture, opposite of where the battery cable is attached to the solenoid, you will see another cable with a grey cover over it. That is the power wire going from the solenoid to the starter. With a DVOM or 12VDC trouble light, pull back the grey cover and contact the connection post (with the other end grounded to the solenoid). Then have someone turn the key to start. If the solenoid clicks, see if you are getting 12VDC at this post or something far less. If you are getting nothing to something far less that 12VDC, the problem is within the solenoid (the solenoid contacts are shot). If you are getting full 12VDC at that post, but the starter isn't turning the engine over, there will be a problem with the starter brushes.

The cost of a replacement solenoid alone is likely equal to the cost of the re-manufactured starter, so if the solenoid is faulty, get a replacement starter. If the solenoid is good, the issue with the starter brushes could be weak or broken springs on the brushes, significant dirt in the brush holders preventing the springs from pushing the brushes onto the starter shaft, or the brushes may be worn out. If you find the brushes are worn out, you can get replacement brushes. If your starter is a 1.0kW unit, the Standard Motor Products part number for brushes is JX117, the AC Delco part number for brushes is C736. Most auto parts stores will carry one or the other. They can be ordered from RockAuto.com as well.

Hope this helps.

 

I've ben having the same problem for years. Since I only drive mine (88gts) once a month or so, I've been able to live with the occasional no-start. When I replaced the starter with a remanufactured one last year, I thought it was all good. But it's happenng again. I get full voltage from the battery to the starter, but only .7 volts from the solenoid to the starter (when it's not starting...just a click). I didn't put my multimeter lead to the starter ground...I put it on the battery negative terminal....does that matter? It sounds like I got a bad starter. Is there anything else it could be? And is there a trick to removing the starter without unbolting the front pipe? I cannot get clearance to remove it without all that trouble....my original manual does not mention removing anything, that's why I'm feeling like I'm missing something obvious in how I'm removing it. Thanks for any help.

 

Current pull when starting ae92 is about 9 amps.

what does starter contacts look like?

 

I don't know....it's a brand new starter so I'm assuming the contacts are good. (The contacts you are referreing to are inside....copper plates that contact each other when energized?). My previous starter was doing the same thing....I replaced those contacts and it didn't make a difference. So I bought this one. Same story.

 

Or slightly needs adustment.

 

Yup, that too.

 

Use a manual remote starter switch to temporarily bypass the cars wiring to determine if its the cause. Sears used to have the push button switch, but I don't know if they still do. It still can be something as simple as a dirty contact that intermittently works.

 

I agree. Harbor Freight sells one too for a few bucks. Are there any Sears left still open?

If it's anything like the older GM starters, the solenoid disc probably has a bunch of "arc" marks that are keeping voltage from passing thru. In the old days, we'd pull the solenoid apart, clean it up and flip the disc over and put it back together. A half hour of time would result in a starter that would work for another 6+ months for very little money. About the time you had to go back in, the starter would be due for brushes too.

 

I assume you are talking about the solenoid plunger washer that would get carbon marks due to arching and that these marks create resistance? I'd think that would have to be alot of carbon buildup.

 

Yup. It's actually copper coated (same with the bolt end), and it will pit, allowing the carbon to fill the gaps. Keep in mind that anytime the starter is engaged, that washer and bolt head (full battery voltage) get the full amperage of the battery passed thru that connection. That could cause a lot of carbon to be laid down filling any gaps between the 2 pieces.
The smaller diameter wire just powers up the coil to pull the plunger in to make contact with the battery big bolt connection. Keep in mind that all of this happens inside the solenoid.

 

Does anyone have the factory wiring diagram for this 1990 Corolla regarding the starting system? Looking at a correct wiring diagram for this car would be very helpful for this particular item.

 

It is possible your switch wire isn't providing sufficient voltage when the key is turned to START to pull the solenoid relay strongly, so the contacts in the solenoid aren't being made with sufficient force. So it is possible the source problem is with the switch wire. It would be best to check that wire with it connected to the solenoid and during a key turned to START. If just unplugging it with no current, it is possible to get full voltage at the wiring harness - but if a load is placed on that wire (leaving it plugged into the solenoid), that could show a significantly lower voltage.

 

OK thanks for the explanation. So even though I hear the contacts "click" when I turn key to start. it may not be powerful enough? Dumb question but how do I get a voltage reading on the switch wire with it still plugged in to the quick disconnect? Do you know where the switch wire originates from (so if it's bad I can start from the beginning of it)?

 

have you tried to apply 12v to the starter relay to verify it turns?

 

No....would that be with a remote starter switch? I need to buy one. Would I put the power lead on the terminal from pic #1 (from post #7) or at the terminal on pic #2?

 

The starter bypass is done at the relay in the under hood fuse box. You will need to refer to a wiring diagram to know which sockets are the load side. Basically bypassing the switch side and power the starter with a wire.

 

If using starter switch, the switches black connector goes to engine block or neg battery terminal and the other to the starter where the ignition wire is attached to. Then you just press the switch to turn engine over. If i recall you have to turn the key to on while doing this.

 

We used them for valve adjustments. Connect the high tension lead to the solenoid with your "bump starter" and push the button which bypasses the ignition circuit but will not start the engine unless you have the ignition ON.
Be very careful when you do this, THE CAR COULD START WITH NO ONE TO CONTROL IT AND POSSIBLY KILL OR INJURE SOMEONE.

 

Yup, this bypasses the neutral safety switch/clutch pedal safety switch inside the car, and if it's in gear could run you over if the engine starts. Normally you hook up the remote switch to the big battery hot cable at the starter and the solenoid terminal. I the old days we used a screw driver to "jump" these terminals to start the engine. I even showed my wife (back in the early 80's) how to do this on her 73 Chevy Vega, and she got some strange looks from the men watching her "fix" her own car. On it, the starter was out in the open and you could easily get to it from the top. She even kept a semi long screw driver in the car just for doing that.

 

Whoever asked you to get voltage readings after removing the starter will need to chime in. My method (which leaves the starter installed) is different. But it is not right to have a dozen people with a dozen ways of checking guiding you all at one time.

 

A hammer in the old days was all you needed to cokz the car to start. Sometimes it took alot of cokzing and a few choice words. These steps are missing from fsm book.

 

Since you have starter out, did you connect the starter housing to ground while measuring this? It could also be a corroded or dirty connection causing the voltage drop.

 

I made sure the starter base was resting on the vehicle chassis. Maybe that's not a good enough ground but my biggest question is the .4 volt drop...is that acceptable? If so then the problem has to be internal.

Also remember that the voltage on the front connection (pic. #2) was only .7 volts when originally testing. So 12.5 volts at the positive connection, 12.1 volts at the clip, and .7 volts at the front connection.

 

Since it’s off, try using a jump starter pack. Apply 12v and ground it. A loop will be made and monitor the solenoid and bendix gear to extend. When power removed, it should retract.

Might be time to rebuild it.

 

ok, I used jumper cables from my other car while running....attached them to the positive terminal on the starter and clamped the ground to the base of the starter....nothing.

 

Did you also turn your key to on to start car? Did you also try jumping voltage to solenoid connector small wire at same time? Post pic of your connections.

any clicking noise?

 

no, it was out of the car. The car I used to jump it was running. There was no connection at the small plastic push-in connector, just the positive terminal and ground.

See how it cranks with a bump starter as a backup. no crank normally use the bump starter. That voltage drop is more than I would like to see. If you still have the same issue with the bump starter you have eliminated a lot of diagnostics, BUT, a .6 voltage drop is more than I would like to see.

It has a .4 voltage drop....12.5 to 12.1

no, it was out of the car. The car I used to jump it was running. There was no connection at the small plastic push-in connector, just the positive terminal and ground.

I didn't do the test right....I also need to jumper the plastic push-in connector with the positive. I will do it again

 

See how it cranks with a bump starter as a backup. no crank normally use the bump starter. That voltage drop is more than I would like to see. If you still have the same issue with the bump starter you have eliminated a lot of diagnostics, BUT, a .6 voltage drop is more than I would like to see.

 

Never jump start any car with the host vehicles engine running. You risk the electrical system with the voltage surge. Even worse if the engine is revved up while jumping. You are placing a 160+ amp load or more on the alternator which is almost as bad as a dead short. If you reverse polarity it's a dead short through the ECU through the ground wire connection from the injectors. Seen it fry the ECU, melt the injectors, flood the engine, then the idiot tried to push it 40 MPH and drop the clutch, not knowing 3 cylinders were full of gas (incompressible liquid) and bent 3 connecting rods almost 90 degrees, totaled $6000 82 280 ZX.

 

Ok I retested correctly (host vehicle off). Everything works....whith power to just the S terminal, the plunger comes out. With power to both the S terminal and the main stud of the starter, the plunger comes out AND it spins like it should. What is wrong? If the contacts were bad inside, would it still start like this when bench testing? I could just take this starter back to the vendor and they will give me another (lifetime warranty), but I just did that a year ago and still having the same problem. I remember bench testing the old starter just like this one and it passed, but still had the intermittant no-start. Should I at least open up the solenoid before returning it and look at the contacts?

 

What brand is it? You’ll probably have a better chance with a denso from the junkyard.

 

Not sure but I can find out from he vendor. I have a new starter rebuild kit (solenoid plunger and contacts) that I'm tempted to use instead of returning it. I went through this exact procedure a few years back and it didn't fix the problem. Maybe just bad luck with the rebuilt starters.

Here is what we know: Battery good (12.5 volts). Full voltage at starter positive terminal (12.5 whle key in start)....so that means the wire is good. S wire at starter is 12.1 volts while key in start....so some voltage drop but is probably acceptable and wiring is good. And the last is the voltage at the power wire to the starter from the solenoid which is only .7 volts. So going back to 93celicaconv first post about being a bad solenoid is where I think I'm at. Anyone?

 

Can you put voltage to the plunger to verify plunger functions?

 

where would I attach the power to? I used the S terminal for one test and the combined S terminal and main power terminal for the other test.

 

How many terminals are in the connector for the solenoid.

 

My starter looks just like post #7....I don't know if that answers your question