Is everything torqued down to spec? The bolts should be torqued down with the strut in the loaded position (as if on the ground). For DIYers this is achieved by carefully supporting the steering knuckle a wood block until the chassis just lifts off the stand.
Also, there are notches on the underside of the mount. There are corresponding cutouts on the strut rod. These pop out often when you tried to tighten the rod nut. So I would inspect them too.
Another are the sway bar links. They need to be torqued down to spec, or they can make a knocking sound too, particularly when you drive diagonally up a speed bump or driveway (that's when the sway bar is tensioned).
Before removing and disassembling to inspect, you might want to check the sway links and make sure they're to spec. Also try the strut rod reset procedure from Monroe:
"With wheels on ground, loosen the strut rod (center) nut by 3-4 full turns.
Then use a 10mm hex socket to rotate the rod by around quarter turn (his instruction doesn't say which direction) until it locks into place (!). Then tighten the rod nut again to OEM specs (36ft-lbs). Drive the car to confirm issue is gone (or not). "
Monroe Quick-Strut rattle clunk - rod assembly & nut...