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Suspect Bad ECM, +BM voltage is 0

775 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  ToyotaTundra2012  
#1 ·
My 2010 Matrix is in limp mode with Codes P0121 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance Problem ) and P0123 high input voltage in the throttle or pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit. )

I get a +BM voltage reading of 0V with my diagnostic tool. Normally I get 13V or whatever the battery reads. I have checked the voltage in and out of the ETCS fuse as well as voltage at the input pins of the ECM where the +BM voltage goes into it. All voltages read the same as battery, so all is good with the +BM voltage going into the ECM.

I check the voltage coming out of the ECM, going to the +M and -M to the throttle body motor. That voltage is 1.5V or so. I think it's supposed to be 12V to power the throttle body motor.

In conclusion, I think the ECM is bad. Any other opinions?

BTW, I've had it to 3 different shops for this problem and they have replaced the gas pedal twice, replace the throttle body and already replaced the ECM. This is the second ECM. The first ECM had the same problem but it was intermittent. The second ECM worked for months but then +BM voltage went to 0 completely, all the time.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
#3 ·
I am having a similar issue, I just bought a 2012 Corolla, and it ran and drove home when I bought it (yesterday) but when I went to start it today it wouldn't start.

After some diagnosis I found that the throttle body valve is randomly spasming, and it won't respond to the pedal while it is doing that. When it isn't I can open and close it like it should with the pedal, but as soon as it starts to shudder it won't respond anymore. I am getting the codes P0121, P2121, P2138, P060D, and P060E, so basically all of the position sensor and performance error codes. I checked that it wasn't the pedal by unplugging it from its harness, and it still did what it was doing.

The reason I haven't tried replacing the throttle body yet is because I can't figure out why it is doing this without the engine on at all. The vehicle won't stay running due to the fluctuations in the valve, but all I need to do to make it start acting up is to turn the key to run, without starting the engine. It isn't the battery either, I replaced it today with hopes that it was just weak, but it didn't help. Any insight or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
#4 ·
I had
I am having a similar issue, I just bought a 2012 Corolla, and it ran and drove home when I bought it (yesterday) but when I went to start it today it wouldn't start.

After some diagnosis I found that the throttle body valve is randomly spasming, and it won't respond to the pedal while it is doing that. When it isn't I can open and close it like it should with the pedal, but as soon as it starts to shudder it won't respond anymore. I am getting the codes P0121, P2121, P2138, P060D, and P060E, so basically all of the position sensor and performance error codes. I checked that it wasn't the pedal by unplugging it from its harness, and it still did what it was doing.

The reason I haven't tried replacing the throttle body yet is because I can't figure out why it is doing this without the engine on at all. The vehicle won't stay running due to the fluctuations in the valve, but all I need to do to make it start acting up is to turn the key to run, without starting the engine. It isn't the battery either, I replaced it today with hopes that it was just weak, but it didn't help. Any insight or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
I had codes P0121 and P0123 along with some codes about the accelerator pedal. However, the diagnostic tool was seeing changes in voltage when the accelerator pedal was pressed so I ruled that out. I bought a used PCM on ebay and installed it but no difference. The +BM voltage is still reading 0 even though I can back probe those wires on the input of the PCM and get 12V. At that point I gave up and took it to the shop. Hopefully they can find something. I'll let you know.