How does it run besides the stalling problem? Any roughness at idle?

You will probably need a new grommet with the PCV valve if it is too loose in the valve cover.

N.E.O.

 

N.E.O.,

Thanks for the assistance. It runs pretty well otherwise. It is just inconsistent when the electric fan kicks in. It will stall once in a while but, only when it is stopped. Can I purchase just the grommet for the PCV? Everything else is fine on the car, I just need to get it to idle correctly. Could it be a MAP or one of the other sensors? Also, I need a new exhaust manifold, mine is cracked. Do you know of a place where I could get one or headers for this car? Thanks.

 

A wrecking yard would be the best bet for a manifold, unless you want to go with a header, do a search on the site, maybe there are links that can direct you to where you can purchase one.

The grommet is available separately.

Actually a crack exhaust manifold might have some affect on your concern, depending on where the crack is; if it is before the O2, it might send a lean signal to the ECM causing to richen up the fuel mixture which may ended up choking the engine instead of keeping it running. Just a speculation here though.

N.E.O.

 

That last item seems to make a lot of sense. In the last few weeks, my gas mileage has dropped considerably. If it is making the car run rich, that would explain the decrease in mileage. I'll try the grommet also. Thanks.

Mike

 

Keep us posted!

N.E.O.

 

Well, I think I'm making progress. Replaced the PCV grommet, ran the Seafoam through the engine and fuel system and tighten the connection between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe (it was fairly loose, no visible cracks in the manifold) and it seems to be running better. I was able to turn the idle adjustment screw down about 1/2 turn. Still not quite where I want to be but, I think I'll also replace the plug wires, cap and rotor. That would complete the tune-up. Thanks for the advice.

 

Keep us posted on your progress!

N.E.O.

 

N.E.O. or anyone else who is reading this. I have the plug wires, cap and rotor ordered. Should be here in a day or two. According to my Haynes manual, there should be an idle-up VCV connector that I would disconnect before setting the idle. From the little research I have been able to find, this should adjust the idle up under load. This seems to be my main problem. When the electric fan kicks in, it drops the idle speed greatly sometimes causing the car to die. Could this be the problem and if so, how do I check it and where do I find it. Thanks.

Mike

 

If your car has A/C, there will be two idle up VSV, the one that you are looking for should be in front of the engine on the right side of the car, with a green/red tracer wire and brown wire.

N.E.O.

 

NEO, I may be a little confused because now I read that the Idle Air Control valve, which is underneath the Throttle body would be what controls this. Is there something I can do to test this? Can it be bypassed? I know I am sounding a little scattered but, I just want to get this car to idle correctly. Everything else is great with it. Can the IAC be cleaned or should I just get a different one. New ones run $180-$200, I saw a used one on Ebay for $30.

Thanks,
Mike

 

NEO, Is it difficult to remove the throttle body? It doesn't seem like a hard task but, is there anything that I make sure I do like replacing gaskets or tightening the bolts. I do not have a torque wrench.

Mike

 

The IAC, or auxiliary air valve on the bottom of the throttle body has more to do with fast idle then normal idle speed change. Unless you are also having problem with no fast idle, I would suggest simply clean it by spraying some carb/choke cleaner into the throttle body with the engine running, and try to keep the engine running while you are doing that.

Did you have a chance to locate the idle up VSv you were looking for?

N.E.O.

 

I'll look for the vsv in the morning. I try cleaning the AIC valve in the morning too. I thought of this because I read somewhere that this adjusts the idle when the engine is under load as well. I figured since it seems to be dying when the electric fan kicks in, this may have played a part. I did also find what I think is a slight vacuum leak from the throttle body intake tube to the valve cover. I repaired that leak tonite and will see if it makes any difference in the morning.

Mike

 

Let us know how it turn out.

N.E.O.

 

NEO, or anyone,

So far so good. Replaced the cap, rotor and wires. Took it on a long highway drive to check mileage. I got 30 mpg (driving at 70-75mph) but, I still think there is a slight miss in the engine. Is there anyway to check the idle rpm without a tach? I just want to try and get it close. Also, is it fairly easy to check the timing if I pick up a timing light? or do I have to move a lot of stuff to get to see the timing marks. My manual does not give a very good visual on this. I know what to do once I get to that point but, if the idle is off too much, I don't know if it makes a difference. Thaniks.

Mike

 

If you are going to get a timing light, maybe get one with a tach or get an inductive pickup tach. Unless you are good at tuning by ear, there isn't a surefire way to adjust the rpm accurately without a tach.

If the rpm is high it may indeed affect the timing to some extend, so the closer you can get the idling correct the better it would be.

As far as the fuel filter fitting, sometimes it does take a little effort to get it loose. Are you using a flare nut wrench? A plugged or restricted filter won't effect mileage but power output of the engine.

N.E.O.

 

Also, I think the mileage may be affected by the fuel filter. One problem, I can't get the bottom nut loose. I even had a mechanic look at it where I used to work and he could not loosen it. Any ideas? Or do I have to cut the line and put in a new one? Thanks.

Mike

 

I purchased a tachometer but now I am having a hard time figuring out where to hook the green lead. My manual states I should attached it to the coil but, it looks like the coil is under the distributor cap. The other diagram shows it being hooked to a connection attached to the firewall. I am confused.

Mike

 

Connect the green lead to the check connector by the left fender well, look for the terminal IG. Then use a small pin to tap into the terminal. That was why I had suggested an inductive pickup one, but doesn't matter.

N.E.O.

 

Got it!! Thanks for your help.

Mike

 

Keep us posted on how you are coming along!

N.E.O.

 

N.E.O.
Got back to working on the idle and timing this morning. I have loosened the bolt on the distributor to adjust the timing. I will move down OK but, it is very tough to get the distributor to rotate back up. Is there a trick to this? Is there another bolt other than the one on the front that I should be loosening?

 

There should be two bolts holding down the distributor; one can readily be seen and one below the distributor, a little obscured.

N.E.O.

 

N.E.O.
Got back to working on the timing. Got my timing light and tach. If I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC and the idle at 750 rpm, the car idle rough and dies once the electric fan kicks in. I have the timing set at roughly 12-13 degrees BTDC and the idle set at 950 rpms. It runs fine but, if it sits overnight or for a few hours, it is hard to start. It acts like it is flooded and I have to put the throttle to the floor to get it to start. This may be because the distributor cap I purchased cracked. I taped it up with electrical tape for the time being. I have a new one on order and it will be hear in a few days along with different plug wires (The new ones are original equipment while the bad set were NGK). Hopefully, this is what is causing the issues. Let me know what you think. I really appreciate your help.
Mike

 

Depending on where the crack is on the cap, it is possible that may cause some problem.

If your estimate of timing is correct, it isn't advanced too much that it will affect the starting of the engine. Did you have a chance to check if the idle up valve is working or not, the one by the front engine mount?

N.E.O.

 

N.E.O.,
I pulled the cap and wires. The tower the #3 plug wire plugs into is just about completed cracked at the base. It even sits a little crooked now unlike the other towers that are completely vertical. It even looks like the electrode? inside the cap is a little crooked. My new cap should be here in a day or so, that should solve it I think. Like I said before, I taped it up with electrical tape to get by in the mean time. Once it does start for the first time, it runs fine.