It appears to be loose enough that maybe it is flopping/bouncing enough to be hitting the inside of the plastic timing cover lid causing the noise.

Check the plastic on the inside of the timing covers for any scuff marks from the belt hitting/rubbing.

I have never heard of a timing belt only being loose in one spot and not the whole path.

It would be like any other pulley/belt - it always has more deflection on the longest stretch (eg. alternator belt)

I am going to replace the belt but I am wondering if there is anything else I should do/check?

Maybe it's stretched enough that it's due for replacement anyhow..??

Better to replace it now, than have it jump off somewhere on the highway and having to get it towed.

If in doubt or you're unsure of the history... then replace all the timing belt components (belt, tensioner, idler, cam/crank/oil pump seals, spring, water pump, oil pump seal (take oil pump off).

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ROCKAUTO as an example

AISIN: $88.79 ... w/ water pump ........... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1798460&cc=1273520

DAYCO : $5.83 ... OIL pump seal, CAM, CRANK and OIL PUMP PULLEY seal ........... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5224572&cc=1273520

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When you install the new timing belt ... with the tensioner released ... and with the cam pulley and harmonic balancer marks correctly placed ... Just take a look at the length of timing belt where it goes from the cam pulley to the crank shaft ... that is, the lower stretch of the belt. If you observe any sort of slack or looseness in this length of belt, then remove the belt and shift it one or two belt teeth ... so that there is no apparent slack, either above or below the cam pulley.

If you can get the TB adjusted so that the timing marks are correct, and at the same time, you do not see any obvious slack, either above or below the cam pulley, then you will have the TB installed correctly.

One last check, as recommended in the factory service manual, is to rotate the crankshaft about two full turns, and recheck the cam pulley notch and the TDC mark.

If your Timing Belt corresponds to the recommendations here, you should have no further problems, assuming that everything is mechanically sound and correct.

 

If you think the timing belt is loose .......then it is loose.

If the tensioner is at it's maximum then it is time to replace the belt.


Yes it is normal to notice the looseness between cam gear and water pump first, the cam gear gets tension from the valve springs, the water pump gets tension from the belt tensioner.
So with engine off the cam gear will hold the belt tight from cam to crank because of valve spring tension, when you shut the engine off the cam/valve springs are the resistance that causes the motor to stop spinning, the water pump needs the belt tensioner to keep that section tight, if tensioner is at it's max. then that section would be loose.

 

Thanks all, you guys have been very helpful!. I am getting a new timing belt today & will try to get it on correctly. Hopefully a new belt will resolve the problem!

 

Let us know the result of the TB replacement.

 

whenever i install a timing belt , the spring on the tensioner never seems to give enough pressure so i help apply a little additional pressure with a pry bar before tightening pulley. If not, i can hear it slap the inside of the plastic cover.

 

It is a good idea to replace that spring. Just stop by the dealer parts counter.
There is actually a length specification for the spring ... if it is longer than a certain amount, it is out of spec. However, I just replaced mine ... It probably gets a lot of motion and has a limited life ... after 60 kmiles or more.

 

Thanks everyone, we tried installing the new timing belt but unfortunately moved the cam pulley/gear a bit so now the car will have to be re-timed, uggghhh. The last time we changed the timing belt we would be spot on at the beginning on the timing marks but after turning the crank twice to verify, we would be a tooth or so off. I can't remember exactly now but I think thee was a trick to move the cam back a tooth or something like that and that fixed the problem. Anybody know or have any experience with that?

 

HOORAY!! We got the timing belt on and got the marks on the cam & crank pully-gears lined up. Then we saw a little slack between the cam & the water pump. So while my son held the crank pulley still, I was able to pull the timing belt back (towards the windshield direction) enough to take the slack out. Myabe a tooth/cog or two, and of course I had to do this without moving the cam pulley/gear at all. Tightened & torqued the tension-er & hooked everything else back up. Car started right up & didn't hear the flapping/slapping sound. Too dark now so will have to finish tomorrow. Got a couple of questions though if anyone can help. How do we hold the crank pulley/harmonic balancer still so we can torque the crank bolt?? We have the bolt in snug & when we try to turn it, the whole pully turns?? Searched the web and there is a post about a SST (special service tool) designed for this situation. Anyone know another way?

 

. How do we hold the crank pulley/harmonic balancer still so we can torque the crank bolt?? We have the bolt in snug & when we try to turn it, the whole pully turns?? Searched the web and there is a post about a SST (special service tool) designed for this situation. Anyone know another way?

Use an impact gun. There really is no trick to tighten without one, other than to jam the flywheel with something.

People have designed clubs and various other contraptions but again and impact is the easiest and most reliable way to unscrew and tighten the crank bolt.

 

Regarding the harmonic balancer, you have to be a little careful with what you are doing to it. It is constructed in two separate pieces, with one central piece and then one outer piece, with some sort of rubber compound holding the two together. You don't want the outer piece to become separated from the inner piece, or else there will be problems.

There are several suggestions regarding an appropriate tool for holding the HB in place ... for either loosening the center bolt, or tightening it.

Somebody will probably post one of these later for you to look at ... I welded up some angle iron ... However, you might not have a welding machine handy.

 

Check out this home-made pulley holder tool DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ion-1992-1996-1997-2001/357040-home-made-tool-tighten-camshaft-sproket-nut.html

dc_98_cam was right on that the belt was loose a couple of teeth. The only slack should be where the tensioner pushes on the belt. One member suggested removing the spark plugs can help.

If you observe any sort of slack or looseness in this length of belt, then remove the belt and shift it one or two belt teeth ... so that there is no apparent slack, either above or below the cam pulley.

 

thanks everyone! We got the car running. Just want to make sure the crank bolt is torqued right. Looks like there are a few home-made crank pulley/harmonic balancer pulley holders out there that will work. Just need something to hold the pulley while I torgue the bolt

 

take to a shop with a mech who can hit it with impact. $15 done.