It’s not freeing up. Mine snapped on my Highlander and on my RX350 the nut came off but the bolt froze into the bushing collar. The bushing will tear first before the bolt moves freely.

I got OEM for my Highlander (from a 2004-2007 model) and MOOG 2011-2018 RAV4 greasable ones for my 2008 RX350 - both worked well. I think part numbers are in my HL DIY thread. 04-07 alignment bolts require 04-07 rear lower rearward control arms which require 04-13 rear knuckles. You’ll want new arms anyway as it’s not worth trying to save the old arms.

I don’t think there is an aftermarket substitute for the older 01-03 AWDs, but if so your best bet would be to look into some Fords as they use the same design our 01-03s use with the sleeved toe adjustment bolt.

 

48409-32030 - Sleeve (Bolt goes into this)

48452-32030 - Nut / Washer

90119-12126 - Through bolt

48198-48010 - Incorrectly listed as required for 01-03, this is the washer before the nut on 04-07

 

Ah that's a godsend thank you! With those part # I can find my way lol. To be honest I will stick with just swapping the bolt/nut/sleeve and order rear lower control arms off rockauto and do both sides. With over 300k miles now and 20 years of NY salt the less I need to swap move yank and change the better for everything so I won't swap knuckles unless they're bad. Everything else seem tight which is good

 

Nice! I’m getting some weird results for that final control arm through bolt so I’m going to double check it and update my post. I know it’s a 17mm hex M14 x 1.5 bolt with an 80mm length though!

Edit: Updated!

 

left - 01-03 | right - 04-07

^^^
What prevented me from using 01-03 hardware on 04-07 arms

 

Think I struck gold. 2001-2005 RAV4 alignment bolts - looks like a direct fit for 2001-2003. Would save a lot of money over OEM. For once it's actually cheaper to get on Amazon than Rock

MOOG K100399

 

You will likely need to sawzall the old Part out.

 

1+ for sawzall. Used some cutoff wheels originally and they made a huge mess so swapped to reciprocating saw. Use some HEAVY DUTY suckers for blades as the bolts are grade 10.9 super hard and slow to get through.

 

I have a trick with an acetylene torch that can also be done with a regular propane torch you get at the hardware store. It just takes longer. Heat the head of the through bolt and as much of the threaded end as you can. With acetylene, get the ends orange hot. You don't want yellow, as that's when the steel is starting to liquify. A little propane torch won't get it that hot, so if you can even see a hint of red glow in the bolt head, that's good enough. Otherwise, just expect to heat soak the bolt for a few minutes at a time. Allow the ends to cool a bit and repeat a time or three as needed until the bolt starts turning by itself. (I prefer an impact to break them loose, but the bolt itself could be eroded to the point that it'll snap no matter what.) The big idea with the heat is that you're sending the heat down the length of the bolt and expanding it to the point that it breaks up the rust that's binding it. I can't say it'll work for your rig. 20 years and 300K in prime rust belt country might win this one. One other caveat to heed is that after all this time, the sleeve that's bonded to the bushing itself might already be broken away and will spin with the bolt it's seized to. Make sure you have all the parts you need for this one just in case. It's decidedly plausible you're going to have to destroy old parts, one way or the next.

 

Great info guys thank you. @TheLowlander I will order the moogs from Amazon, and arms from rockauto and hopefully be able to tackle this Christmas break. This car seems to like to keep me busy that week last year I swapped the K frame same time of year lol.

I have a little trick of my own, if there is room there I may use my SDS hammer drill in hammer (not drill) mode. It vibrates immensely and loosens up rusted parts quick.

Few weeks ago I changed the front brakes and they were so frozen on a sledge hammer and heat did.nothing to loosen them up, I decided to break out the big SDS with a chisel bit and set it in the edge where the rotor meets the hat and slowly spun the wheel while vibrating the rotor and I swear it took 5 second for the rotor to pop off that way, amazing what strong vibrations can do