I'd skip a formal flush but a drain and fill might not be a bad idea but to get any benefit you'd need to do that several times to dilute the old ATF in the converter with fresh ATF.

 

 

Drain and refill at these miles.
The flush will most likely cause leaks down the road - any mechanic worry his salt would know that.
For better results, do a drain/refill and then do it again in a few days.

 

Drain and fill with oem fluid. Maybe a couple of times or so to get more new fluid in there. If a trans blows up from changing the fluid, it was already going to blow up due to excessive wear

 

I agree completely that unless the transmission has lost one or more of it's clutch (or band) friction linings down to bare metal, that even 100% new OEM fluid can't hurt it at all.
I don't think that many running high-mileage transmissions are actually in such a sorry state, maybe a few though?

And I have no fear of the fluid exchange machines. What the guy said about it being the most efficient way to do it sounds entirely correct.
As long as the operator has reasonable intelligence as a mechanic, uses the correct fluid, has training/experience with the machine, and understands/respects the strict level-check requirements, I say that it should consistently allow the shop to replace more fluid for less money! It absolutely won't stir up sediment as is sometimes suggested, since it's flow is no more "forceful" than running the engine at idle.

But you have to be the judge of any shop that you allow to do any work on your car. Not all shops are consistently good and that is too often a problem.

Correct fluid and correct level equals no problem.

 

...New to me 07 V6 Camry...

2007 or 2017?

 

2007

 

This is the forum for the 2012 to 2017 camrys. I don't think that might matter too much but just wanted to mention that. In my opinion, with that many miles on it I'd bet a lot of money on the fact that it's at least had a service or two on the transmission. Most won't last that long and will be shot or have major problems otherwise. With all that being said I think it's safe to do a drain and fill. I personally wouldn't go much more aggressive than that.

 

I bought an 07 sequoia 2 years ago w 219 k miles. It was company owned for 90 percent of its life and had 3500 mile oil changes from day 1. I changed all diffs and axles and coolant and had my shop do FOUR drain and fills within a week. No problems or leaks, shifted great when I bought it, and still drives great. I think the trans was done a couple times due to the great service history. But I wanted every fluid done to be sure. The only fluid I still need to address is brake fluid. The rear door stuff failed per normal, its all new stuff. The timing belt and water pump and radiator are all new.
I dont mind paying for maintenance as long as my vehicles run great.
I would suggest you do a couple drain and fills on your toyota, its good to know much of the fluid is new. As a wise person allready wrote.. if it fails it was going to do so very soon anyway.

I did four drain and fills, and in another year will do maybe three more. Scott

 

Drain and fill several times ..save old fluid .. just in case slippage . .

 

Why would new fluid cause shifting or slippage if you use the correct type? And, why would you ever put old fluid back in the transmission? That sounds horrible. Transmission valve bodies are hyper sensitive to cleanliness. eeekk

If you have problems with new fluid, then time for a rebuild.

 

The reason you would put the old fluid back in if you had slippage old fluid has all of the material from the clutches which are or which give grab to the clutches through the fluid. That's why just in case maybe not so much on certain types of transmissions but some if the transmission is neglected. And you got 160,000 miles or more and it's never been changed that's why I always save the old fluid in case it starts slipping you can put the old fluid back in which gives you the added benefit of the fibrous clutch material. The reason new fluid could cause slippage is because the new fluid is more slippery and it depends on how the clutches and how badly they are degraded. I hope that explains it ...
Yes of course you do you use the correct fluid you don't have to buy it from the dealer with their expensive markup but you do want to get if it's a GM fluid you want GM if it's Asian or Toyota you want that one if it's German or might be some difference there..

 

Has anyone ever drained out fresh transmission fluid, then and put the old contaminated fluid back in? Or, has the fluid been kept around just in case?

BTW, I have been using Valvoline MAX Life Synthetic ATF in all my cars for years, Toyota, Lexus and Infiniti. No problems. Less than $20 per gallon at Walmart.

 

I changed the fluid in my lexus RC350 at 55k miles. It was black. I actually thought I removed the wrong drain plug it was so black, had to look it up to make sure. Replaced the fluid using 6 drain and fills with the Valvoline Max life. There were no transmission symptoms before, transmissions still works perfectly…and I beat on it.

The car came from Phoenix AZ. Black trans fluid is common there in cars without external coolers. I would change trans fluid for friends and family. Most all of the cars had black fluid. Trucks no.

If you are sitting in traffic, 115F heat, your transmission will roast. Could disbond your clutch packs if it gets hot enough, but your fluid turns black way before the transmission is trashed.

 

The fluid that passes through the clutches also passes through the valve body. The clutches shed particulates. The planetary gears shed metal. Most transmission problems are from valves seizing up. Not shifting, not going into gear, etc instead of wearing out and slipping. But, transmissions have a filter, and magnetic drain plug. So, you should be good, if the fluid aint black

 

Most transmission problems are from valves seizing up. Not shifting, not going into gear, etc instead of wearing out and slipping.

Agreed there. The one transmission issue one of my trucks had, sometime back, was a solenoid valve "getting sticky." It's been the only vehicle I've ever owned where that occurred. In that case, I ended up pulling out a small quantity of the fluid and using a Lucas (I think) additive, and the issue has not recurred in years since.

I normally don't touch additives, but with the age of the truck (it's a 2007) at the time, and the cost to even service the transmission, it wasn't worth doing from a "value of the vehicle before and after" standpoint. It was worth a shot, and said shot paid off handsomely, this time.

 

My Infiniti wouldn’t go into reverse, because I hadn’t ever changed the fluid at 100k miles. The manual said it didn’t need to be changed. I put that Lucas stuff in. It only took about a day of driving, then reverse started working again. After that, I started draining and filling the trans fluid in the pan at every oil change. Put another 120k miles on the car and that reverse problem never came back. Lucas is good stuff. I forget which additive it was.

 

Lubegard Red is another additive that is recommended.

 

Drain and refill will be ok. Don't forget the filter.

 

Absolutely change the fluid and filter.

If you are going to be under the car pulling the pan and filter, then do the flush routine ... adds about 10 minutes and then you are done for another 200K miles.

 

If the transmission hasn't been maintained somewhat regularly, definitely pull the pan and clean it out, plus a new filter.

The new fluid will greatly increase the circulating dispersant additives, so will also mobilize a good deal of the silt/sediment which always accumulates in the pan of a poorly-maintained transmission.

Not that this mobilized sediment (which is fine enough to pass through the filter) will necessarily cause ill effects or damage, but it will reduce the beneficial effects of using new fluid.

Alternately, changing/replacing part of the fluid several times, with a period of regular driving between drain-and-fills, will over time clean out the transmission while improving the fluid quality.

That's a very high mileage though not to pull the pan for a look-see.