.. hope to find some help soon cause I'm losing my mind :crying::frown:

You are the on in reality. WS transmission fluid is NOT a 100k mile fluid. It needs to be changed.


So over the course of the past three years I dug, interviewed, deep searched the internet and all manner of research and I finally have a document that is the "Real Deal" on how to do it as a layman if you wish to go that route. This is a drain and fill procedure not some kind of "flush". Stay away from flushes. Just do one or better..several (two to three) drain and fills.


Toyota made the whole process much harder on us by eliminating the simple 10cent dipstick and replacing it with a temperature specific fill level checking method that utilizes an internal "over flow" tube that lets the transmission drizzle the excess fluid when at a correct temperature and perrrrrrfectly level. It is a more complicated (but doable) process for sure. If you are reading the process step the first time... read it once, then wait a few hours, read it again, sleep on it, then read it again and visualize it and then you will finally "see" what the process is. It took me a week to truly "get it" in my mind's eye.




Here's the link:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/60imu89ri78sft8/ATF DRAIN & FILL & LEVELING - CAMRY U760E.pdf?dl=0

 

I never understood when they say to drain and refill 2 or 3 times? Why not just drain it once and fill it once? Is it to pretty much clean out the transmission or no? Cause my foreman at my shop said it isn't necessary to drain and refill 2 or 3 times but I'm not sure.. so why?

 

I changed mine at 30,000 it didn't kill it. Though I went further and dropped the pan to change the filter. I never do flushes; I would only do that if it absolutely needed it.im not convinced if you ask the dealer to change it they actually do. I couldn't get the dash temp thing to work so I used my knock off scan tool software. But it comes up to temp pretty quick. I haven't noticed anything different since doing it. But I change my fluids earlier then recommended by Toyota. There is pretty big threads on the subject and it more just fear of doing it the first time more than anything.long as you have another car to drive while its down it shouldn't be a big deal, but I know not everyone has 2 cars.mine is the 4 banger though. Anyone who cares about their car will do more maintenance then is recommended.

 

I didn't understand where you stated "as long as you have another care to drive while it's down it should't be a big deal". Are you saying there will be an issue doing this drain or refill and that something might go wrong? Or are you just saying this is a long process/patient job to do?

 

^ +1
Drop the pan and change the filter as well. I'd suggest Valvoine Dex/Merc, which is fully synthetic and suitable for WS. Just make sure it's probably filled back up. I kinda doubt the dealers rushing through jobs could actually fill it up to the proper level. Some have reported underfilled transmissions.

 

I was wondering about an after market oil. I just ordered the Toyota stuff from amazon.I have heard these transmissions are sensitive to be over and under filled.

 

I did it "because".... I had a near new car, it was in the shop being rebuilt and during the safety I just bought a box of oils to be changed [engine & trans (D*F)].

I did it at 20k, so the car was like new for a '12 XLE V6

 

You got everything done at the Toyota dealership or your personal technician?

 

Mine is a 2013, and I did it in 2015 at 40K with scan tool to read ATF temp for level setting. I also posted a PDF file for my experience. Did it in summer time, so ATF came up to temp very quickly. Drained and filled 8 quarts. Fluid was dark but no abnormal smell. Did not touch pan.

 

8 quarts came out without dropping the pan...I only got 1 quart to come out

 

my refill was about 3.75 quarts dropping the pan and changing the filter.

 

I personally done the drain and fill in my car every 15,000 - 20,000 miles intervals using the OEM Toyota "WS" transmission fluid.

At least the transmission has some new fluids flowing

 

Have you experienced any issues after doing the trans drain and refill? Where did you get it done at the Toyota dealership?

 

46k miles on my 2014 Camry and I haven't done anything with transmission fluid and don't plan to..

 

How come you dont plan to drain and refill the transmission fluid? Any reason?

 

I don't know what to do either. I'm approaching 30K miles and want to change the transmission fluid.

I worked at Jiffy Lube type places for 8 years in high school and college, changed fluid on hundreds, maybe thousands of transmissions, and I don't even want to mess with this Camry.

It's way more complicated than it needs to be.

I am not messing with a techstream and trying to have my car level in my garage and at the same time I absolutely do not trust the dealership to do it.

Being a maintenance freak, this has to be one of the most disappointing things about this car.

Who knows though, all the concern could be for nothing and the trans could be just fine for 200K miles on the original fluid? I just can't believe that.

 

Quite a few of us simply "refill what was drained"... Get to shop, maybe run the car so the temp is up a couple of ticks, drain, measure and refill with a hand pump. There's tolerances built into anything mechanical to account for +- amounts of fluid, even if your under an oz, or over, it'll be fine.

I never saw my mech messing with the temp. thing via the cluster & the pin reset on OBD port. He's done it on his numerous Lexus/toyota vehicles this way, and they all seem to be fine in the end......

 

Just to clarify... my 8 qt drain and refill was done via cooler line.

 

I need to change out my transmission fluid on my 2010 Camry LE, I see that I could drain but where do I refill? And how do you know when it's full?

 

drain and fills don't do much good without also dropping the pan, cleaning the magnets, and replacing the filter.

 

How come it doesn't do much good JUST by draining & refilling? WHY change the filter? WHY clean the magnets? Does the magnets need to be replaced as well? Do I need a new pan too?

 

Yeah, I'll probably do the drain and fill a few times, but still.

Automatics are already a pain in the ass for do-it-yourselfers even with a dipstick and manufacturers had to make it even worse.

I'm coming from owning almost exclusively manual transmission cars where it's simple to change almost ALL of the fluid AND clean the magnet because it's on the drain plug. No torque converter to drain, no lines to drain, no pans to drop, simple.

I'll probably have to buy another manual trans car before they're gone.

 

What are you people doing changing transmission fluid at 20k? or 50K? Unless you are towing something, this just seems silly. If you are towing something sure, but I just read this thread and I'm getting a high level of paranoia

 

What are you people doing changing transmission fluid at 20k? or 50K? Unless you are towing something, this just seems silly. If you are towing something sure, but I just read this thread and I'm getting a high level of paranoia

It's maintenance. Many of us understand the importance of it, and do it more often than necessary. If you're a bare minimum maintenance kind of guy, and only keep your cars for a few years, you'll probably be fine. If you're in it for the long haul, you may want to consider paying a little now, so you don't pay a lot later.

 

denzyota,

I was not clear on my comment - long day in the yard. I am fully aware of "maintenance" and it's importance:

- 1996 4 runner 275K miles
- 2007 Sequoia 116K (just broken in)
- 2002 Maxima 155K.

So far, the Sequoia is the only one that has given me any trouble. My point was that changing trans fluid so early and so often simply tosses fluid that is perfectly good. It's like people changing oil every 3k miles, even now on the new cars. The oil has just broken in, reached it's maximum lubrication ability and people change it out. Some of the comments on this thread imply people are changing their fluid way, way early.

 

Oil doesn't "reach maximum lubrication ability". The oil is at maximum lubrication ability when you're pouring it out of the bottle into your engine and it's downhill from there. I change my oil every 5K instead of every 10K. Is it overkill? Maybe. Will it hurt anything? No, but it will make it easier to sell my car private party, just like I did with my Accord and other cars which sell almost immediately after I pull out all of my oil change receipts, and it costs what? An extra $50 a year?

I don't buy into 100K platinum spark plugs, lifetime transmission fluid, or 10K mile oil changes. Maybe I'm too paranoid, but I'll never have an issue caused by lack of maintenance and it isn't like it costs tons of money to change fluids.

 

just came back from a larger local toyota branch and i requested a trans filter yet i guess they have to order it. Must not be a common product on the shelf. World Standard fluid was only 9.18 after taxes per quart what a bargain. Im suprised that these bottles do not have the tin foil seals on them, just a locking cap with a tamper proff locking ring. Now im glad i did not buy in bulk online! Can someone inform if i can clean filter out i guess its a metal filter?

 

Drain/refill is a partial change. Of course, if you want to do multiple drain/refills, you'll need to go for a 10 minute ride between refills to mix up the fluid. Diminishing returns.... 1st drain/refill gives you 50% new fluid, 2nd to 75%, 3rd 88%, and 4th to 94%... If you plan on doing more than 2, I would simply consider a cooler line flush.

Flushing is of course a bad idea from everyone I have asked about flushing a trans but my car now has ALMOST 40k on it &

Not a bad idea... its just internet hearsay from couch jocks and fools trying to rebuild a blown failed transmission with a fluid change. Also, many shops use non-lubricant damaging kerosene-type distillate flush chemicals which are also not good for your clutch materials, adhesives, seals, gaskets...
There is nothing wrong with doing a cooler line complete ATF exchange. Most shops are not competent enough to do this, or the drain/refill, or the fluid level check when completed. I doubt that many dealers know how to do a full exchange of the fluid either.

Most of the transmission particles are sucked up into the filter and slowly clogs it up.

The OE ATF filter doesn't catch much. It would need a complete transmission failure to even remotely clog. So, there really is no point in EVER changing the ATF filter. Usually, I change mine after 100k miles simply to have a new filter o-ring installed and for peace of mind. I backwashed plenty of ATF filters and really not much there. Same with the magnets....not an issue until you're over 100k. If you want real ATF filtration, then install an inline ATF filter. Aftermarket filters are available form Racor, B&M, PermaCool, Derale, Magnefine.... Magnefine is easiest intall and UOA particle data shows that it can filter out about 90% of what is missed by OE ATF filters.

Toyota transmissions have enough issues. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time and hand it down to the kids, then I would definitely do a drain/refill(or gallon cooler line pump out), every 30k-50k miles. I'd even upgrade to a full synthetic ATF from Ravenol, Amsoil, Redline, Torco, Castrol, Valvoline....

If you do drop the pan, add the 4-magnet upgrade that Toyota is using on their lemon 760 transmissions. And, don't forget that the 660 is still having worn valve body and failed case bearing issues. Definitely consider fresh fluid as often as you can afford it. Its the suspended particles in the fluid that the pathetic OE filter can't catch that wears about the VB bores, seals,.... And, the wear from the failed case/bearing simply passes thru the OE filter. So sad that some think that the OE filter catches much of anything.

Some don't have a drain plug. The pan plug is the 'overflow' check level plug. In order to drain from the pan, you can unscrew the tube in the pan after removing the check level plug. Cooler line disconnect pump out is easier and more efficient. Too many DIY'er will strip/break/forget about the check level tube.

 

+1. A more complete "exchange" is the cooler line method. For others it's easier just to drain/refill. Agreed, we heard enough stories about how some dealerships underfill transmissions.

The POS U-series transmissions have more features than the older A-series, but they are no where near as reliable as the A-series. Cost cutting and weak case engineering contribute to wear particles that cause a lot of the shifting issues.

The after market inline filters do a much better job, but I'd still change the filter ( I believe a 100-120 micron felt) along with using Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc suitable for T-IV and WS.

Drain/refill is a partial change. Of course, if you want to do multiple drain/refills, you'll need to go for a 10 minute ride between refills to mix up the fluid. Diminishing returns.... 1st drain/refill gives you 50% new fluid, 2nd to 75%, 3rd 88%, and 4th to 94%... If you plan on doing more than 2, I would simply consider a cooler line flush.

The OE ATF filter doesn't catch much. It would need a complete transmission failure to even remotely clog. So, there really is no point in EVER changing the ATF filter. Usually, I change mine after 100k miles simply to have a new filter o-ring installed and for peace of mind. I backwashed plenty of ATF filters and really not much there. Same with the magnets....not an issue until you're over 100k. If you want real ATF filtration, then install an inline ATF filter. Aftermarket filters are available form Racor, B&M, PermaCool, Derale, Magnefine.... Magnefine is easiest intall and UOA particle data shows that it can filter out about 90% of what is missed by OE ATF filters.

Toyota transmissions have enough issues. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time and hand it down to the kids, then I would definitely do a drain/refill(or gallon cooler line pump out), every 30k-50k miles. I'd even upgrade to a full synthetic ATF from Ravenol, Amsoil, Redline, Torco, Castrol, Valvoline....

If you do drop the pan, add the 4-magnet upgrade that Toyota is using on their lemon 760 transmissions. And, don't forget that the 660 is still having worn valve body and failed case bearing issues. Definitely consider fresh fluid as often as you can afford it. Its the suspended particles in the fluid that the pathetic OE filter can't catch that wears about the VB bores, seals,.... And, the wear from the failed case/bearing simply passes thru the OE filter. So sad that some think that the OE filter catches much of anything.

Some don't have a drain plug. The pan plug is the 'overflow' check level plug. In order to drain from the pan, you can unscrew the tube in the pan after removing the check level plug. Cooler line disconnect pump out is easier and more efficient. Too many DIY'er will strip/break/forget about the check level tube.

 

Great responses guys.

Finally, the first trans. thread where [sans the same member that appears in each and every trans thread] people actually discuss the trans. at hand with some great insights.

 

my reason for wanting to add another drain port is because taking that plastic level indicator out their is still about 1/2" ish if fluid in the bottom of the pan.

 

Is there a write up DIY for the cooler line method? I need to flush mine since it is now at 70K mikes. Also, what is the best synthetic oil to use?

 

See youtube, the video gives a good demonstration of what to expect.
I make sure that the trans is over-filled by more than one quart before each purge out the return line.
This allows a continuous two quarts to be moved after each refill. You could probably over-fill by two plus quarts, but at some level the fluid will begin gushing out of the disconnected return line hose (instead of just the return flow out of the hose that you slipped onto the nipple on the cooler going into your bucket).

 

Every 6 years or 60k miles drain and fill only with Toyota fluid only.