I could care less what the manual calls for.

I use 75w90 in my transfer case which calls for 80w90. And, I use 75w90 in the rear end which calls for 75w85.

For colder climates, full synthetics are your best bet since they usually flow/pour better. This is why you'll see them rated 75w instead of 80w or 85w. Synlube rates their gear oil as a 70w90 but they're a little too pricey for me. Castrol Syntec, Mobil-1, RoyalPurple......and various other branded synth 75w90's are available at most auto parts or dept stores.

 

As the guy that did the DIY, I'd agree with deadrx7conv...ALL the full syn gear oils are 75W90 (auto, marine, etc). Wal*Mart sells a crazy 75W140 but for limited applications. All the dino gear oils are of the 80W+ variety. With the colder climate you mention, 75W90 is an advantage. The 80W90 I drained was really nasty by 30,000 miles (with a lot of metal shavings). Whenever I've dropped full syn gear oil (from my lower unit in the boat - also 75W90), it looks perfect and no metal particles. Full syn is the way to go for all oils I believe...some say full synthetic "hype" as full syn is real part dino - but it usually looks a lot less stressed that non-synthetic or a blended oil when you drain it...

 

Thanks guys. I did find Amsoil synthetic 80w90 and that's what I'm going to use. I did the differential yesterday (easy, but the plugs were really stuck!) and will do the transfer case when I have more time.

BTW, what is the secret to removing the plastic retainers from the belly pan without breaking them?

I know I'm being anal, but I wanted to use exactly what the book calls for even though 75w90 synthetic would have been OK.

Thanks again.

 

Full Syn Gear Oil

jwall - Good find - I'm on the Amsoil site fairly often and I never noticed their 80W90 syn (I have their "Preferred Customer" thing that doesn't really save you any money)...I do agree - you need to be able to sleep at night - so that is a smart decision. I grabbed the Mobil 1 75W90 as it has faired well in tests, was local - I had a good coupon at Advance Auto. I'm at our cottage in Canada at -30 or lower air temps in February, so lower viscocity is always better (and even a lower freeze point washer fluid).

The skid plate clips are just standard automotive clips...use a body clip tool or wide flat blade screw driver under the edge of the center pin on the clip. Twist gently back and forth to release the center pin and the clip will fall right out. The 10mm sheet metal screws are to be removed first (and reinstalled last)...The clips hold the skid plate in position so you can install the 10mm screws without have to use "persuasive language".

 

Thanks klosssfam, every thing went as you described.
All I did different was to apply anti seize to the front bolts as mine were rusty.

BTW, I found the Amsoil at my local small engine repair shop for $9.20 USD. It's usually available at local hardware stores though, Ace, etc.