AFAIK, no one has done what you're looking for. Below is the wiring diagram for the MFD. You may need to add a 3PDT switch on the reverse, V+, and V- wires to isolate the front and rear camera signals.

 

Hey Luc, stumbled onto this thread and hoping you can assist me. I’m in Australia so I think 2013 Kluger is same as north America highlander.
I have a multi information display MIDin the vent area of dash. It contains the wiring for the rear camera. I want to disconnect that cable and wire it into a new Sony display I’ve installed.
can you advise which wire relates to the rear camera I should disconnect ?
I have attached picture of connector to the MID.

 

Awesome. Thanks Luc

 

The wiring diagram is valid for '08-'12 North America models with a reverse camera video to the MFD. If the vehicle has the Navigation, the video goes to the screen, so the signal wires will not be in the MFD connector. All 2013 NA models have the video to the headunit because it comes with the standard screen. If your 2013 Kluger has a screen with the radio, it's likely you won't find the wires in the MFD.

 

I have a 2013 Kluger Grande so I have the reverse camera on the big screen but I want to use the information display screen for the front camera. I will have to find out how use the Info Display screen for the front camera.

 

Check the connector behind the MFD and you'll need pins and wires to 2, 14, and 15 signals. Be aware this is theoretical, not actual.

 

This is how I'm planning to connect the front camera to the upper display screen. Will this work? Open for all suggestions.

 

Your reverse video goes to the radio screen, so technically, there should be no wires going to pins 4/12 and 14/15. Pin 2 may be present to show a message when in reverse gear. Most, if not all, aftermarket cameras are all 12V based, so you can't use pins 4/12 since it only supplies 6V, you'll need to find another power source. For the diode connections, I would flip the diode for the Reverse wire and connect both cathodes to pin 2 since Reverse and 12V switch should be an input to MFD.

 

arh... that would be lot of work. I need to open my dash to check the wiring.

 

The top vent panel can be popped off exposing the MFD, which are held in by 2 screws on each side, which I think should give you enough room to access with a stubby screwdriver. If not, you can use an 8mm socket with ratchet. There's enough cable slack behind the MFD that you can pull out and check the connector. You can also remove the two 10mm bolts from the brackets to give extra room. This way, you don't need to remove the entire radio, which is a bit more work.

 

Thanks Luc. I'll let you know how I go.

 

Thanks Luc for the follow up. I may have an adapter like the amazon one here Aerpro | First Choice Tell me, any idea why the steering wheel controls do not seem to work with the Sony change over Ive done? Or is a settings issue? All the apps on the Sony work since I connected there adapter to the Toyota wiring. Radio etc all work JUST not via the sterring controls. Cheers

 

The adapter from Aerpro looks like the correct one. Which integration adapter are you using with the factory wiring and Sony radio? The adapter should take the 3-wire factory SWC and convert to a 3.5mm jack that plugs into the Sony.

 

Hey Luc, Looks like my self wiring project is dead in the water! I managed to get the Sony working pretty much EXCEPT the steering controls dont work. The old head unit was a Toyota product made for them by Fujitsu Ten mdel PZQ60-00300. This unit worked with the steering controls so I guess I havnt been so clever in doing my wiring from old harness connectors to the new harness supplied with the SONY. The first pic is the Sony wire adapter provided. The second pic is the harness from the Toyota loom that wentinto the old Fujitsu Ten head unit. 3rd pic is the connections from the old wiring that I tapped into with the Sony connector. The last pic is of the rear of

old Fujitsu head unit. Do you think you can get thhis working for me with the steering controls and finding a reverse trigger wire to use with the Aeropr adapter that comes with jackto plug direct into Sony just need the reverse trigger. Cheers Mike

 

That's quite interesting your radio is a Fujitsu-Ten based radio, which I haven't seen for quite some time. The clear, white, and black connectors were definitely from the Eclipse brand radio in the U.S., thus they had to create adapter cables that that ran between the factory wiring and Fujitsu-Ten radio.

Regardless, the connection from the 2013 model in Australia is definitely different than the North American 2013. Looking at your factory wiring, I think this Crux SWRTY-61S interface adapter should have everything you need without splicing any wires and have SWC with the Sony headunit. The PAC RP4.2-TY11 would be another option, but it's more costly since it also covers the factory JBL system. I don't know if these two adapters are available in your area.

 

Thanks Luc, there are options locally but I may be able to order your option. if you have the time What do you think of the below? converting of the converting of the converting 🤪🤪 Aerpro CHTO2C Steering Wheel Control Harness Suit Toyota | Frankies Auto Electrics & Car Audio Aerpro APP9SP5 Secondary ISO Harness & SWC Patch Lead Suit Sony AV Headunits - 16 PIN Connector | Frankies Auto Electrics & Car Audio Aerpro APP0141 Primary ISO Harness Suit Daihatsu/Holden/Lexus/Subaru/Toyota Various Models | Frankies Auto Electrics & Car Audio https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.au/product/aerpro-app8sp5-sony-to-iso-harness-16-pin

 

Here is what I would do using the CHTO2C and APP9SP5 harnesses.

• Cut off the non-Sony connector from the CHTO2C harness.
• Attach (solder, crimp connector) the Sony connector to the cut-off end of the CHTO2C harness since they're all color coded the same, except for the light green parking brake wire.
• Attach 10-pin-to-3.5mm adapter to the controller.
• Insert 3.5mm jack (green box) into Sony unit.
• Attach factory connectors (blue box) to the CHTO2C harness.

Although having multiple adapters is fine, but I would avoid that because you don't want 6-ft (as an example) of wiring behind the dash that could pick up noise or cause shorts.

 

So I cut these 2 Black connectors off purchased cable set and splice colour to colour with Sony supplied cable?

 

Thanks. Above and beyond!!

what I don’t understand is how I got just about all working with the Sony adapter spliced into the 2 bigger toyota connections except for steering ? No emulation type box with Toyota set up on old head unit?!!

How do I PM to you? Cheers will advise final outcome

 

The OEM SWC is designed to be detected by the OEM radio only so it does NOT need an emulation box. The emulation box brands that I previously mentioned (Crux & PAC) use DIP switch settings to determine which brand of new or old aftermarket radio will adapt to the OEM SWC. It's a signal-matching interface since every aftermarket radio brands will/may have different programming. There's also an expensive brand (iDatalink) sold here that completely depends on pre-programming to get all the functions working, without using DIP switches.

 

Can I PM to you?

 

Check your Conversations link.

 

Hi Luc,
The harness connectors arrived today so hopefully on Saturday I’ll make the connections as you suggest .

my only uknown for me is the it where you stated:

‘except for the light green parking brake wire.’

will it simply be that after matching all the colours up I’ll have one wire left on the harness and that by default will be the parking brake OR I simply don’t need to use that cable from the Sony wire pack?

will let you know how I go.

thanks so much -again !!

mike

 

The OEM parking brake wire isn't typically located in the dash, you'll need to tie the light green wire by the foot brake if you want to watch a video when the foot brake is engaged.

I'd suggest check to make sure the CHTO2C SWC harness plugs into the OEM side before you cut off the generic black connector, since if it doesn't fit, you just lost $$.

 

Sorry Luc but could you show pics what you mean in this last check before I cut cables?

 

 

I've combined a few of your pictures that would NOT involve any splicing. The APP9 harness is short enough that shouldn't impact picking up noise.

 

Haaa haa. I’d already cut the cables and began splicing per original😳 oh well I’ll see how it works out 😊 cheers.