Excellent video! What brand is that kit and where do I get one?

-Barry-

 

No idea... Australian based company i assume. The only think they really are offering with the kit is the filter...
I thought this vid really explained the theory behind the Diff Breather mod. Pretty good stuff!

 

I'm glad I watched that video as I was wrong about how differential's let water in. I was right that they suck water in when they get supercooled by passing through water, but I had no clue the water sucked in through the seals and not the breather.

I'm starting to rethink the way the breather mod was put up on here. Theoretically we could extend our breather line as far as we wanted to and it still won't work. If we put the breather attachment on the end of the tubing like the mod suggests to, we're still going to suck water in through the seals.

Right?

 

They say to use the open filter... i am thinking it is like a lawnmower filter... leaving it open will keep the seals closed but allow the diff to "breath"

 

Excellent video! What brand is that kit and where do I get one?

-Barry-

I am not sure if this is the kit or not, but it looks similar.

http://www.genie4x4.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=200&osCsid=3f325a22bd874d12ad5a5b223b1021b6http://www.genie4x4.com/diff_breather_kits.htm

 

Great video! Very informative. Good post!

 

I'm glad I watched that video as I was wrong about how differential's let water in. I was right that they suck water in when they get supercooled by passing through water, but I had no clue the water sucked in through the seals and not the breather.

I'm starting to rethink the way the breather mod was put up on here. Theoretically we could extend our breather line as far as we wanted to and it still won't work. If we put the breather attachment on the end of the tubing like the mod suggests to, we're still going to suck water in through the seals.

Right?

Here's a cheaper version. Get a bladder case from an arctic cat dealer along with a toyota diff tube and put it on the diff. It's totally sealed but still allows for expansion and contraction of air and fluids. That way there is no chance of water getting in.

Here's a link to the info at TTORA. http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49380

 

I'm glad I watched that video as I was wrong about how differential's let water in. I was right that they suck water in when they get supercooled by passing through water, but I had no clue the water sucked in through the seals and not the breather.

I'm starting to rethink the way the breather mod was put up on here. Theoretically we could extend our breather line as far as we wanted to and it still won't work. If we put the breather attachment on the end of the tubing like the mod suggests to, we're still going to suck water in through the seals.

Right?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong... *cough* AN *cough*
But I would think the diff breather mod would still work. Relocating the breather to higher ground would mean that it won't get chilled by the cold water and lock lock down right? It would still be at air temp or warmer (as in the ones in the engine bay that Toyota relocated themselves) so they should still be open.

The only problem I see is if those breathers don't warm up enough to open, but the diff's still change pressure. Then they wouldn't open up to let air in OR out.

So I guess the question is, are these breathers open by default? If not, then you're right Rodge. We need filters instead of breathers.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong... *cough* AN *cough*
But I would think the diff breather mod would still work. Relocating the breather to higher ground would mean that it won't get chilled by the cold water and lock lock down right? It would still be at air temp or warmer (as in the ones in the engine bay that Toyota relocated themselves) so they should still be open.

The only problem I see is if those breathers don't warm up enough to open, but the diff's still change pressure. Then they wouldn't open up to let air in OR out.

So I guess the question is, are these breathers open by default? If not, then you're right Rodge. We need filters instead of breathers.

I was under the impression that the cool water caused a pressure drop inside the differential which was what caused the air/water to suck in. So in turn, the differential breather, even though it's five feet off the differential is still going to suck shut. They are open by default because of the spring inside them.

But, now that I think of it more, the factory extensions have that 1 way valve/breather on them as well.

 

I was under the impression that the cool water caused a pressure drop inside the differential which was what caused the air/water to suck in.

That is how the vid describes it

 

Is there a diff breather on the front diff as well on 4x4 equipped Taco's in addition to the rear diff breather?

 

Is there a diff breather on the front diff as well on 4x4 equipped Taco's in addition to the rear diff breather?

There are 2 up front. Located near the battery. Toyota relocated them for you and apparently forgot about the rear one.

 

There are 2 up front. Located near the battery. Toyota relocated them for you and apparently forgot about the rear one.

Thanks!

 

I was under the impression that the cool water caused a pressure drop inside the differential which was what caused the air/water to suck in. So in turn, the differential breather, even though it's five feet off the differential is still going to suck shut. They are open by default because of the spring inside them.

But, now that I think of it more, the factory extensions have that 1 way valve/breather on them as well.

I see what you're saying. The cooling diff sucking in air is what pulls the breather shut is what you're thinking.

From the video it sounded like the valve opens as you drive, and closes when the diff is cool. (at least according to their reference about people waiting for the diff to cool before continuing deeper into the water)

So from the sounds of it the breather is normally closed. Driving for X amount of time heats up the diff fluids/air to increase pressure and open the valve. Then a water crossing (without waiting) cools the diffs so fast that
A.) the valve closes before pressure equalizes and water gets sucked in through the axle seals until pressure equalizes
-or-
B.) the valve sucks water in as before it closes because it's already under water before it closes.

Or maybe a little bit of both. The video seems to imply option A. is the problem.

I'm thinking the spring being out of the water (extended via the mod) would close slower if it closed at all. Figure that a hot material shrinks when cooled rapidly so a hot spring plunged under water would close the valve while a warm spring out of the water would not.

So does it come down to how fast and how much air is drawn in during the cooling? If it's not enough to suck the breather closed we are fine. Also, even if it did close the spring wouldn't it cause the hose used to extend the breathers to collapse slightly? The air in the hose (figure 5" of 1/4" fuel line hose) may be enough to equalize the pressure inside the diff? :dunno:

 

Also, even if it did close the spring wouldn't it cause the hose used to extend the breathers to collapse slightly? The air in the hose (figure 5" of 1/4" fuel line hose) may be enough to equalize the pressure inside the diff? :dunno:

That thought right there may be what makes the extended breather work. Same as the accordian looking think AN posted.

But I'm almost positive that the breathers are open by default. The spring keeps the cap popped up and open. You can actually check for yourself. Press on the metal cap and you can feel it go down just a tad. Let your finger off and it'll pop right back up.

See, these are the discussions that should be on this board. No one is arguing what is what, and at the same time, we're all learning something very valuable about our trucks. :clap:

 

That thought right there may be what makes the extended breather work. Same as the accordian looking think AN posted.

But I'm almost positive that the breathers are open by default. The spring keeps the cap popped up and open. You can actually check for yourself. Press on the metal cap and you can feel it go down just a tad. Let your finger off and it'll pop right back up.

See, these are the discussions that should be on this board. No one is arguing what is what, and at the same time, we're all learning something very valuable about our trucks. :clap:

:clap:
So that would be a negative pressure change in the diff would close it. Make that a RAPID negative change as in the diff being cooled suddenly by cold water. That would probably still cause the breather to close even if extended unless the extension hose acts as a buffer and reduces the amount of pressure applied to the breather. Meaning it would pobably have to suck most/all of the air out of the hose before the breather would close and cause enough pressure to suck water in the axle seals.

 

:clap:
So that would be a negative pressure change in the diff would close it. Make that a RAPID negative change as in the diff being cooled suddenly by cold water. That would probably still cause the breather to close even if extended unless the extension hose acts as a buffer and reduces the amount of pressure applied to the breather. Meaning it would pobably have to suck most/all of the air out of the hose before the breather would close and cause enough pressure to suck water in the axle seals.

Makes sense to me.

Now, there has to be an expert on the subject lurking around on here.

 

:clap:

lol I'm waiting for AN to chime in any minute now and correct us... :lol:

One other thing to add I just thought about. The whole diff-breather relocation mod is probably so that the breather doesn't suck in water if it's not cooled fast enough to close. Or that was my original thought as to why it was done. I figured it COULD stay open and allow water in. That video only added to that by showing me that even with the breather closed it could suck water in elsewhere due to the high pressure difference.

 

:clap:

lol I'm waiting for AN to chime in any minute now and correct us... :lol:

One other thing to add I just thought about. The whole diff-breather relocation mod is probably so that the breather doesn't suck in water if it's not cooled fast enough to close. Or that was my original thought as to why it was done. I figured it COULD stay open and allow water in. That video only added to that by showing me that even with the breather closed it could suck water in elsewhere due to the high pressure difference.

If you leave it wide open up out of "waters way" you should not pull any fluids through your axles. Also what about this...
I dont know how much pressure is actually exchanged but, even if you ran the breather up the the engine compartment and closed it off... the hose might have enough expansion properties to handle the change in pressure. Not saying to cap it off completly just in theory... just a thought... the plastic bung pic on page 1 gave me that thought. The only thing i dont like about the bung cap is that you might be submerged in water mud/muck that could rip that off over time. A hose might last longer can cause less resistance when materials pass around it. Just a thought.

 

When I removed my stock rear breather I got a vacuum "whoosh" when it cleared the hole. The truck had been sitting for about 12 hours. This would imply the system is pretty tight, especially since air will leak more easily than water. Given that I am not sure water leakage due to vacuum caused by cooling when driving through water would be an issue.

As an aside - did anyone else get a union that was actually smaller in diameter than the 3/8" ID tubing? The replacement breather fit fine, but I needed to wrap tape around the union to inrese OD so it fit tight in the tubing.

 

When I removed my stock rear breather I got a vacuum "whoosh" when it cleared the hole. The truck had been sitting for about 12 hours. This would imply the system is pretty tight, especially since air will leak more easily than water. Given that I am not sure water leakage due to vacuum caused by cooling when driving through water would be an issue.

As an aside - did anyone else get a union that was actually smaller in diameter than the 3/8" ID tubing? The replacement breather fit fine, but I needed to wrap tape around the union to inrese OD so it fit tight in the tubing.

I think you got the wrong union then. Mine fit pretty snugly. As for the vacumm noise you heard, so did I. As for the rear being pretty tight, I don't care how well it's sealed. If there is a chance that water can get in there, no matter how small, I'd like to prevent it at all costs.

 

no I thought our truck could go through 22" of water without any modifications... but I am think preventative matters wouldn't be bad... maybe this is something I should look into...

 

no I thought our truck could go through 22" of water without any modifications... but I am think preventative matters wouldn't be bad... maybe this is something I should look into...

I think it's 27" that we can safely ford. Safely as, we won't hydrolock our engines due to water being sucked into the intake tube above the front passenger side wheel.

 

I think it's 27" that we can safely ford. Safely as, we won't hydrolock our engines due to water being sucked into the intake tube above the front passenger side wheel.

Yeah, not safely as in "no need to change your diff fluids afterwards". Or after multiple water crossings. My guess anyway.

 

Nice post by the OP. I'm going to the auto parts store tonight and picking up a 3/8" inline fuel filter to replace the breather. Whether hot or cold, it'll breathe freely instead of sucking in water through the seals.