Thanks for the review. I had my doubts about these intakes. All they seem to make is lots of noise.

The only one I like is the TRD so far. :thumbup:

 

Thanks for the review. I had my doubts about these intakes. All they seem to make is lots of noise.

The only one I like is the TRD so far. :thumbup:

Yeah the TRD looks nicer, but a guy on ct dynoed it and only got a few ponies out of it. I really think the URD TCAI is the only thing on the market for our trucks that actually improves HP without tuning. With tuning, I think the Volant produces decent midrange power over stock and I made a "ram air" attachment out of the stock pieces that really didn't do anything but destroy my stock intake and ruin some sheetmetal. It's not any colder than getting air directly from the stock location in the fender. Don't waste any money on Volants ram air attachment, I think it just blows the extra air out the other hole, and even if you plugged the other hole even at 112 mph I don't think you can cram more air in a 3.5" hole than the engine can suck at 5 grand. I wish I had a flowbench, dyno and a wind tunnel to prove it. You guys running the volant without an URD maf cal should remove it immidietly, it's doing way more harm than good. It's just wasting gas and loading up your cats. I'm willing to bet that the TRD, AFE, and K&N are the same way as this one.

 

Thanks for that info. Very interesting.

URD = :banger:

 

man, why didnt you go with the URD or just wait for the C2C? also whats your opinion on the calibrator? for someone who has never tuned a vehicle, but has decent computer skilles? 1-10? 10 being F that its crazy hard lol. install looks good though

 

u guys have way to much time on your hands

 

Thanks for the great info man!! That confirms my choice for the URD even more.

 

i like the load noise.. this is intersting but im still keeping mine..

 

man, why didnt you go with the URD or just wait for the C2C? also whats your opinion on the calibrator? for someone who has never tuned a vehicle, but has decent computer skilles? 1-10? 10 being F that its crazy hard lol. install looks good though

Well I stayed away from the urd because I play on off road tracks here in Germany, and they are muddy as hell. After it rains the woops fill up with water, and it get deep. I don't submerge the whole truck or anything, but when you first nose into the holes water splashes over the hood briefly, and I think that wouldn't be cool for an exposed filter. Honestly I could have just drove slower and dealt with it in retrospect...

It's not hard at all, 5 just because of the pucker factor if you screw up. I learned how to tune using gadgets u tune guide http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
and by lurking in the performance sections of TTORA and Custom tacos. When using the MAF calibrator software to change the A/F ratio a 10 is stock (no change in signal), a lower number makes it leaner (less fuel), more than ten makes it more rich, opposite of the A/f ratio (lower number more rich, higher number more lean) . After tuning fuel trims to zero, you can record the runs on the laptop, so just hit record and go bang through the gears watching the wideband gauge. You are shooting for a 12.5 on the gauge at full throttle from about 3000 rpm's to the rev limiter when the truck is in open loop. So if it's say 11 at WOT (wide open throttle) you know there is too much fuel, so you go back to the R4 program and select the cells that are highlighted during WOT and lower them by .1, go make another run, and then do it all over again. It's time consuming that way, but totally safe. Also you can look at the recording you made, and click on it anywhere to see what the numbers were and what cells need adjusting.

You can see from the recording I am at 5004 rpm's where the little dot is, and it is in the 4.1V cell that has an 8.9 written into it. I was at 11.2 AFR, so I lowered the number a little and went on another run. This was a third gear pull, can you tell where I shifted from the graph?

 

i like the load noise.. this is intersting but im still keeping mine..

If you have to keep it, get a maf cal and tune it. I promise you your truck is slower than a stock one right now, and I bet your gas mileage went to crap too. Go run the piss out of it and then pull a spark plug, it will be dirty and black. Is your exhaust pipe full of greasy black soot? That's extra fuel your engine and cats can't burn up. If you still refuse to admit the obvious at least get one of those "flamethrower" kits and do something with all that raw gas-

 

Here is a quote Gadget posted on CT in reply to my thread over there on the possibility of running open loop all the time by tricking the engine into thinking it's cold, the consensus; Don't do it, not worth it on an N/A motor- He has also had the same experience with these intakes, so it's not just me.

We have tuned several of the 4.0 trucks with that intake and all run very rich. Much richer then stock. This is caused by induced MAF sensor error from a poor replication of the MAF tube.

You can recalibrate for this with the URD MAF Sensor Calibrator. You will have to tune both open and closed loop just like laid out in the URD U-Tune Guide. Tune closed loop by canceling fuel trims using a CAN scan tool.

Now if you want to change the mixture in closed loop you will need the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator. That modifies the signal from the two air/fuel ratio sensors in the exhaust. This is not needed unless you install some kind of forced induction system.

Gadget

 

thx for the reply bro, that was a bbig help, now time to start saving my pennies

 

power

this is what my wife said after going for a ride "Why don't you quit wasting your money on this kindergarden shit and save up and get a supercharger
hey Tacogrande your wife got a sister? :lol:
my GF keeps asking "why do you needs this?" maybe I need to trade her off! cause I am saving for the s/c myself.

 

very interested in the URD CAI but only question I have is with it sitting in the front like that, how does driving in heavy rains effect it. If for instance your on a trip and driving through rain for a couple of hours is it going to get soaking wet.

 

http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf

and by lurking in the performance sections of TTORA and Custom tacos. a 10 is stock, a lower number makes it leaner (less fuel), more than ten makes it more rich.

i belive you may be getting this section backwards. if air/fuel ration is 10:1 stock, a lower number for example 9:1 makes it richer. a lager number for example 11:1 air fuel ratio makes it go leaner than stock.

 

i belive you may be getting this section backwards. if air/fuel ration is 10:1 stock, a lower number for example 9:1 makes it richer. a lager number for example 11:1 air fuel ratio makes it go leaner than stock.

Yes. For a gasoline fueled engine, 14.7/1 is the perfect A/F ratio (Lambda). As the A/F increases, for example 15.1, the engine runs leaner and as the A/F decreases below the optimal 14.7, it runs richer, for example 12.1. Unless you are running a s/c, you should try to achieve an A/F in open loop somewhere around 13.2. It's better to run a little rich than to run lean.

 

i belive you may be getting this section backwards. if air/fuel ration is 10:1 stock, a lower number for example 9:1 makes it richer. a lager number for example 11:1 air fuel ratio makes it go leaner than stock.

You're right about those numbers, but when writing numbers into the maf calibrator program a "10" changes nothing allowing the stock signal to be processed, lowering that number 10 to a 9.9 will make the engine run more lean.

 

very interested in the URD CAI but only question I have is with it sitting in the front like that, how does driving in heavy rains effect it. If for instance your on a trip and driving through rain for a couple of hours is it going to get soaking wet.

This issue has been addressed many times. Soaking rain, auto car washes, etc. don't affect the intake at all. The only thing you cannot do is drive through 4 foot deep water. Not many of us do this anyway.

 

You're right about those numbers, but when writing numbers into the maf calibrator program a "10" changes nothing allowing the stock signal to be processed, lowering that number 10 to a 9.9 will make the engine run more lean.

ohh, now i understand where your coming from, i thought you were still refering to air/fuel ratio. one of these for me ----->:slap:

 

It is a lot louder, and maybe a little faster, but this is what my wife said after going for a ride "Why don't you quit wasting your money on this kindergarden shit and save up and get a supercharger". I love that woman.

Damn, the definition of a keeper! Just knowing what a SC is would be a start, but to suggest working towards one??? Awesome.

 

Damn, the definition of a keeper! Just knowing what a SC is would be a start, but to suggest working towards one??? Awesome.

Yeah, what a woman. My wife doesn't have a clue what a supercharger is. She probably thinks it makes your battery get Charged faster. LOL

 

. Unless you are running a s/c, you should try to achieve an A/F in open loop somewhere around 13.2. It's better to run a little rich than to run lean.

I just noticed this. DON'T TUNE TO 13.2 open loop! That is WAY too lean for the 1GR-fe. You'll burn that engine up running that lean at WOT. I know it's a big argument in the racing community and has been for years what the perfect AF ratio is for max power. All I know is I overtuned a touch on an autobahn run and was running 13.3:1 at WOT and after running through the gears and running right at 110 mph for a few miles the exhaust manifolds were cherry red, you could almost see through them! These motors like 12.5, or 12 if you are a heavy 4x4 with taller tires (I run 33's). Maybe it's the VVT-i or something, but don't tune that lean. Also there was way less power that lean, so what's the point? Tune to 12.5, maybe an X on stock tires could go 13- but I wouldn't do it without and EGT gauge.

 

OK 12.5 it is. Thanks for that info.

 

Yeah, what a woman. My wife doesn't have a clue what a supercharger is. She probably thinks it makes your battery get Charged faster. LOL

I think she's more of a gearhead than me. Her dad races F-1 cars (on a nonprofessional level) and she is a rally car girl. She's got a Peugeot 206 S-16. We raced once, and just when I thought I had her beat she stomped on it and really embarrassed me. I know she can out drive me. It is easier to get a pilot's licence in the states than it is for a German to get a driver's licence. They have to have 100 hours of supervised driving in various conditions, and it costs about $3500. That was after years of go karting, and professional training on race courses like the Nuerburgring. To say she can drive is an understatement. Yeah so I got a hot German chick that can drive the wheels off my truck, she's a keeper.

 

I just noticed this. DON'T TUNE TO 13.2 open loop! That is WAY too lean for the 1GR-fe. You'll burn that engine up running that lean at WOT. I know it's a big argument in the racing community and has been for years what the perfect AF ratio is for max power. All I know is I overtuned a touch on an autobahn run and was running 13.3:1 at WOT and after running through the gears and running right at 110 mph for a few miles the exhaust manifolds were cherry red, you could almost see through them! These motors like 12.5, or 12 if you are a heavy 4x4 with taller tires (I run 33's). Maybe it's the VVT-i or something, but don't tune that lean. Also there was way less power that lean, so what's the point? Tune to 12.5, maybe an X on stock tires could go 13- but I wouldn't do it without and EGT gauge.

Thanks for the notice...I haven't tuned mine in open loop yet, so I'll shoot for 12.5 first and see what happens.

 

I think she's more of a gearhead than me. Her dad races F-1 cars (on a nonprofessional level) and she is a rally car girl. She's got a Peugeot 206 S-16. We raced once, and just when I thought I had her beat she stomped on it and really embarrassed me. I know she can out drive me. It is easier to get a pilot's licence in the states than it is for a German to get a driver's licence. They have to have 100 hours of supervised driving in various conditions, and it costs about $3500. That was after years of go karting, and professional training on race courses like the Nuerburgring. To say she can drive is an understatement. Yeah so I got a hot German chick that can drive the wheels off my truck, she's a keeper.

Stop it!
You're making me crazy with jealousy. :

Does she also enjoy hopping out of bed at 1:00 am to make you a roast beef sandwich?