i share your pain. do u have power seats? cause in my 'rents cam if i put the seat as far down as it will go, and lean it back a bit more, then i can see everthing clearly. i can even see the top light at intersections, and dont have to look at the lower one to the side of the intersection.

 

i share your pain. do u have power seats? cause in my 'rents cam if i put the seat as far down as it will go, and lean it back a bit more, then i can see everthing clearly. i can even see the top light at intersections, and dont have to look at the lower one to the side of the intersection.

lol - same with me at lights, sometimes I need to hunker down. I don't have power seats, but am perfectly comforatable, except for the tach. I don't have (or want) a sunroof, so that helps a lot.

 

ahhhhhh.......i'm so glad i'm short

less weight.......hehehe

make my bike go alot faster.........135 lbs of me on a bike = not extra weight = wheelie easier

 

ahhhhhh.......i'm so glad i'm short

less weight.......hehehe

make my bike go alot faster.........135 lbs of me on a bike = not extra weight = wheelie easier

Hey, I'm like 2 of you

I wish I was 6' even, that would let me fit in abot every car available.

 

Here are some mini tach that I found with a quick browse on autometer's website:


2-3/4" in diameter... slightly bigger than regular A/F gauges:

Here's the link to their page:
http://www.autometer.com/hp/2003_catalog/autogage/7.html



2-1/16th" in diameter... the same size as the regular gauges.

Here's the link to the page:
http://www.autometer.com/hp/2003_catalog/street_performance/40.html

 

This little guy actually caught my eye:

Link:

3.75", built-in shift-light (not the rice 2" external LED), 8,000 RPM range (not overkill, like a 10 or 12k RPM gauge) and an adjustable range for redline. Looks nice.

 

My cam doesn't have a tach so I made my own out of LED's. One LED lights up every 500 RPM, all green except for 6000 and 6500, those are yellow and red.

It can go anywhere because it is flat. It's pretty small (about 4" x 1.5" x .5").

The best part is it only costs about 10$ and some solder to make.

 

ahhhhhh.......i'm so glad i'm short

less weight.......hehehe

make my bike go alot faster.........135 lbs of me on a bike = not extra weight = wheelie easier

I am right with you bud! Heh!

 

My cam doesn't have a tach so I made my own out of LED's. One LED lights up every 500 RPM, all green except for 6000 and 6500, those are yellow and red.

howd u do that?

 

serious, make a how to

 

here is a quick how to. If you guys want I will post a better one with the schematic I use later this week.

Basic How To:

it runs off a frequency to voltage converter. Tach signal and battery power go in and voltage based on RPM comes out. The f/v converter I use is made by National Semiconductor and is part number LM2917N. This link should get you to the data sheet:

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2907.pdf

On that data sheet it tells you how to make it work with a tach signal. I used the "voltage driven meter based on engine RPM" setup.

Then take the Vout and connect it to a series of comparitor op-amps (LM741) to drive the LED's. The circuit I use is attached, you need one for each LED.

Vref is the voltage you expect the f/v converter to put out at a given RPM. The op-amp compares it with Vout the actual voltage being put out at the current RPM. If Vout is greater than Vref then the op-amp puts out B+ (12volts), Which lights the LED.

Vref is determined by a voltage divider. The value of those two resistors takes B+ and reduces it for Vref by this equation:

Vref=(B+)*(R1/(R1+R2))

I put it all together on a premade pc board I bought at radio shack for $2.25.

If you have questions or you guys really want me to do a in depth how to reply and let me know. I hope this made sense, I have never done a how to before.

I'm also still testing my circuit to make sure it doesn't draw too much battery power.
-jornie

 

A full schematic would be cool.

I did a cross reference with NTE on the 2 IC's you listed and came up with some data sheets.


LM2917N:

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/900to999/NTE995.html


LM741:

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/900to999/NTE941.html

 

small corrections.

The equation for the voltage divider is:

Vref=(B+)*(R2/(R1+R2))

I adjusted the design given on the national semiconductor web site. I took out the diode going between lead 11 and 12 and grounded lead 11 (got rid of the 10k resistor between B+ and lead 11).

-jornie

 

oops the op amp is powered backwards too. should look like this:

Sorry about all the messups... too little sleep.

 

those LED tachs sound pretty good, but don't you already have a tach?

(exception to the dude who said he dosen't have one)

 

wow this is awesome thanks

 

what do you guys think about having an extra tach big or small (whatever it doesnt matter) on an automatic. Some buddies with sticks told me I was a tard to get one- but even though i have an automatic i like to know what RPM i am @ and I like to know when to drop the gas to get the best response in the automatic shifting... any opinions

 

i always like to watch the needle go uppppppp and downnnnnnn uppppppp and dowwwwnnnnnnn, moving things are cool

 

moving things are cool

I second that :thumbup:

 

btw- how hard is it to put an aftermarket tach in??? Espeically if you already have a tach on your car- can you hook into the existing tach behind the instrument cluster somehow - or is there another thread that anwsers this somewhere else...

 

btw- how hard is it to put an aftermarket tach in??? Espeically if you already have a tach on your car- can you hook into the existing tach behind the instrument cluster somehow - or is there another thread that anwsers this somewhere else...

I'd like to know how we go about doing so witha Generation 2 Camry. I've looked everywhere in my Haynes manual, but at some points it says go to the "Service link" that is actually right there at the distribuotr cap, or to the negative lead on the coil.

Plus how do we go about getting the feed through the firewall? I don't have the luxury of an already installed tach ('90 DX-Automatic).

 

btw- how hard is it to put an aftermarket tach in??? Espeically if you already have a tach on your car- can you hook into the existing tach behind the instrument cluster somehow - or is there another thread that anwsers this somewhere else...

Its not hard to install.

Mount the tach somewhere and wire it up. Theres 4 wires (+12V, ground, illumination, and tach signal).

 

I'd like to know how we go about doing so witha Generation 2 Camry. I've looked everywhere in my Haynes manual, but at some points it says go to the "Service link" that is actually right there at the distribuotr cap, or to the negative lead on the coil.

I've heard of wiring it up to the black wire on the ignitor. I haven't checked the service connector on the distributor or the negative on the coil to see if its all the same.

I have my MSD tapped into the brown (ignition) and black (tach signal) wires on the ignitor and it works fine.

Plus how do we go about getting the feed through the firewall? I don't have the luxury of an already installed tach ('90 DX-Automatic).

Take off the front drivers side fender liner (the black plastic inside the wheel well) and you'll see a big orange grommet against the firewall. You can run the wire through that grommet.

Instead of getting a aftermarket tach you can swap guage clusters. You need one from 4 cyl. gen 2 (LE model).

 

I've heard of wiring it up to the black wire on the ignitor. I haven't checked the service connector on the distributor or the negative on the coil to see if its all the same.

I have my MSD tapped into the brown (ignition) and black (tach signal) wires on the ignitor and it works fine.


Take off the front drivers side fender liner (the black plastic inside the wheel well) and you'll see a big orange grommet against the firewall. You can run the wire through that grommet.

Instead of getting a aftermarket tach you can swap guage clusters. You need one from 4 cyl. gen 2 (LE model).

Thanks for the help. I most likely won't do the tach for a while, however the tip you gave me for the firewall grommet will help me when I finish hooking up my relays to my fog lights.

Out of curiosity, what's the ignition wire for? I know you have the black for the tach signal, but what did you need the ignition (brown) connection for?

Perhaps I'll post a copy of my wiring diagram later on.

 

Out of curiosity, what's the ignition wire for? I know you have the black for the tach signal, but what did you need the ignition (brown) connection for?

For my MSD box.

The brown wire (ignition) supplies a +12V switched source to the MSD.