My dealer put 35lb/sq inch pressure on my front wheels but 33lb on my rear wheels. The spec on the door specifies 33lb. However, I think the dealer is right to put higher pressure on front wheels since the weight distribution of Avalon is about 60/40 favorites the front. What do you think? Edit: mine is a v6 with 18" wheels.
pspun
Lots of cars recommend 1 or 2 less PSI for the rear tires. I run 2 less PSI in the rear tires when the trunk is empty or has a light load, which is 90% of the time. When I take a long trip with a heavy load I raise the rear tire PSI back to the same as in the front tires. The 2 PSI differential in the rear improves ride comfort since most of the bumps are felt through the rear suspension.
Well, it could make the tires wear funny. Overinflated tires can prematurely wear the center of the tires. I don't think 2psi is enough to make a noticeable difference though. Also worth noting, the weight distribution while in motion (even at steady speed on flat ground) is going to be different than when parked. You'd have to do a tremendous amount of math and research to figure that out.
I really doubt that any of us normal folk that drive the TAH would feel a difference in 2-3 PSI in the tires front or rear.
I tried adjusting the PSI when analyzing the ride comfort that has been discussed here ad infinitum, and found nothing noticeable.
As for paper and pencil fact, the LRR tires usually do better at a particular PSI. Discount tire says Michelin recommends 35 on this car with Premiers.
Discount has to honor the warranty and I would expect they want the best performance of the tire.
If you rotate regularly, it would take some time to notice a change in wear.
I worked for 6 years in a tire store and have seen wear patterns and it's the PSI of the tire that affects the geometry of the cross-section (and wear) more.
As for the weight shift when braking it's probably not enough to matter with this car.
Most of the driving is driving. Not braking and shifting the weight of the car onto the tires.
The hybrid design (for me) is to get good (fantastic) MPG's. The 35/35 gets the best wear and mileage for my thoughts.
I take it easy and rarely stop quickly in a turn and rotate the tires every 5K and expect good life of the tire.
The suspension (struts/arms/sway) will stabilize the car.
I tried adjusting the PSI when analyzing the ride comfort that has been discussed here ad infinitum, and found nothing noticeable.
As for paper and pencil fact, the LRR tires usually do better at a particular PSI. Discount tire says Michelin recommends 35 on this car with Premiers.
Discount has to honor the warranty and I would expect they want the best performance of the tire.
If you rotate regularly, it would take some time to notice a change in wear.
I worked for 6 years in a tire store and have seen wear patterns and it's the PSI of the tire that affects the geometry of the cross-section (and wear) more.
As for the weight shift when braking it's probably not enough to matter with this car.
Most of the driving is driving. Not braking and shifting the weight of the car onto the tires.
The hybrid design (for me) is to get good (fantastic) MPG's. The 35/35 gets the best wear and mileage for my thoughts.
I take it easy and rarely stop quickly in a turn and rotate the tires every 5K and expect good life of the tire.
The suspension (struts/arms/sway) will stabilize the car.
Are the recommended pressures calculated with the car fully loaded, with no extra weight, with or without passengers, fuel tank full or empty? I don't know and the service guy at the dealer doesn't know either. The manufacturer doesn't tell us because they don't want to confuse us. Which leads me to believe a few pounds don't matter that much. Tire pressure gauges can be off by that much. My policy is to use the manufacturers recommended pressures as a minimum and inflate to a few pounds above that for better mileage and handling. The idea that overinflated tires will wear the tread faster in the center was certainly true with bias ply tires and some cheaper radials but good quality radials will keep their shape. You can usually inflate to the maximum listed on the sidewall with no wear problems.
Normal is as opposed to professional race car drivers with very low profile tires.
After two years of reading comments here the 18"/17" tires differ a bunch.
Anything close to 35 or 33 won't change much in how most of us drive.
As I mentioned before, the shop that will replace the tires if they are worn prematurely has the biggest vote for my car.
Since I have not felt any difference of 203 PSI, I follow their guidance
After two years of reading comments here the 18"/17" tires differ a bunch.
Anything close to 35 or 33 won't change much in how most of us drive.
As I mentioned before, the shop that will replace the tires if they are worn prematurely has the biggest vote for my car.
Since I have not felt any difference of 203 PSI, I follow their guidance
Yes, front tires can have more psi numbers than rear.
Over 30 years wearing out several sets of tires on cars and pickup trucks, they all got the most even wear across the tread and more miles of life than the industry average with the rear tires 20 to 30 percent less psi than the front. The front ones were a few psi below sticker spec. My tire dealer for the Michelins involved has no problem with me doing that; except one. He says his shop doesn't make any profit off of my purchases because their rotation every 4K to 6K miles eats up the profit paying his crew to do that.
Here's a link to an insight to tire pressure versus footprint/contact area:
http://www.performancesimulations.c...ction-tire-contact-patch-size-is-determined-mostly-by-weight-and-tire-pressure/
My experience is in contrast to that.
My Avalon Limited with 18 inch low profile tires may need a different ratio of rear to front psi numbers. I'm using 31 in the front and 28 in the back; about 10% less. It took a few days at those numbers for the tire pressure monitoring system to quit putting the low pressure warning symbol on the display. But full contact across the tread is at hand. MPG numbers are higher than what most folks claim for their Avalon Limited with 3.5 V6 system turning the tires.
Had a lot of center wear on my tires years ago before deciding to put less air in them. Tire dealers doing warranty on my Michelin tires have all had no issues with using less air in them. As long as I don't drive at high speeds over legal limits and corner sharply, higher pressure's at sticker spec ain't needed.
Over 30 years wearing out several sets of tires on cars and pickup trucks, they all got the most even wear across the tread and more miles of life than the industry average with the rear tires 20 to 30 percent less psi than the front. The front ones were a few psi below sticker spec. My tire dealer for the Michelins involved has no problem with me doing that; except one. He says his shop doesn't make any profit off of my purchases because their rotation every 4K to 6K miles eats up the profit paying his crew to do that.
Here's a link to an insight to tire pressure versus footprint/contact area:
http://www.performancesimulations.c...ction-tire-contact-patch-size-is-determined-mostly-by-weight-and-tire-pressure/
My experience is in contrast to that.
My Avalon Limited with 18 inch low profile tires may need a different ratio of rear to front psi numbers. I'm using 31 in the front and 28 in the back; about 10% less. It took a few days at those numbers for the tire pressure monitoring system to quit putting the low pressure warning symbol on the display. But full contact across the tread is at hand. MPG numbers are higher than what most folks claim for their Avalon Limited with 3.5 V6 system turning the tires.
Had a lot of center wear on my tires years ago before deciding to put less air in them. Tire dealers doing warranty on my Michelin tires have all had no issues with using less air in them. As long as I don't drive at high speeds over legal limits and corner sharply, higher pressure's at sticker spec ain't needed.
Ambient temperature in the USA will be from -40 to +120 degrees F depending on where you are and when you are there.
Would be nice if tires had something that would keep their squish index (new term?) the same in all temperatures. Then such charts as the ones shown below would not be needed:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_inflation_pressure
I don't think nitrogen in tires would help much.
Would be nice if tires had something that would keep their squish index (new term?) the same in all temperatures. Then such charts as the ones shown below would not be needed:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_inflation_pressure
I don't think nitrogen in tires would help much.
Let's make it more complicated and discuss the ambient pressures of those that are living at more than 2000' above sea level and those above 5000" and how pressures are affected at altitude.
A little common sense goes a long way here.
Don't fill to MAX.
Keep inflated to near the pillar recommendations.
Drive safe.
A little common sense goes a long way here.
Don't fill to MAX.
Keep inflated to near the pillar recommendations.
Drive safe.
Inflation = Axle Rating
The main purpose of inflation is to hold a load or make sure there is
enough psi for the mfg's axle rating. (gross vehicle weight passengers luggage etc)
The tire is mainly constructed to hold a max psi, it is basically like a raft in the pool
Usually a tire's max weight carrying capacity (usually the max psi) is considerably more that the axle rating
Fill it with proper psi and a 200lb person will stay afloat, let some air out and person
sinks a little, more air out more sinking, all air out bottom of pool. The raft (tire) did not
support the person (car passengers) the air psi did.
The main purpose of inflation is to hold a load or make sure there is
enough psi for the mfg's axle rating. (gross vehicle weight passengers luggage etc)
The tire is mainly constructed to hold a max psi, it is basically like a raft in the pool
Usually a tire's max weight carrying capacity (usually the max psi) is considerably more that the axle rating
Fill it with proper psi and a 200lb person will stay afloat, let some air out and person
sinks a little, more air out more sinking, all air out bottom of pool. The raft (tire) did not
support the person (car passengers) the air psi did.
For those that care, a rule of thumb is for a contained volume one psi increase for each 8 degrees of temp increase
Basic passenger tires running continuously on a hot summer day, the internal psi will increase about 3-5 psi for normal air due to the temperature increase
By running nitrogen the amount of vapor is decreased but, never totally get of so the psi increase is reduced about half
Basic passenger tires running continuously on a hot summer day, the internal psi will increase about 3-5 psi for normal air due to the temperature increase
By running nitrogen the amount of vapor is decreased but, never totally get of so the psi increase is reduced about half
You guys must drive on pristine roads. I can feel 2 psi difference in pretty much every car I've owned.
I typical run a cold PSI 2-3 more than what is recommended by the auto manufacturer. Trying get that extra 1/10 of an MPG that I lost with thicker oil. I also like the better steering response of a little more PSI. I've been known to drop the PSI by 2-3 when there is snow on the ground for a better footprint/traction. Automakers balance NVH, handling, comfort, wear, MPG, traction.... with their tire PSI recommendation. I'm not an average consumer so I use PSI to get what I want from the vehicle!
I also have driven 30 years and have never seen lower pressure make the tires last longer. My experience is that along with the reduced rolling resistance, there is less heat/wear on the tires and they last longer. Concerning cross section wear, radials do a pretty good job preventing that when compared to bias-ply. I'd wager most complaining about cross section wear are lost in the world of pre 1990 bias-ply tires, simply spreading hearsay, or are using an excessively high or low PSI(usually low PSI and sometimes overloaded). There are plenty of cheap radials out there with issues regardless of PSI and alignment. The biggest thing that I've seen ruining tires is the alignment and excessively low PSI causing flat spotting and overheating.
When you look at the front to rear weight distribution, you'll understand the tire pressure difference and that 'comfort' is probably the optimization point and that dealer is giving you a couple extra PSI up front because he knows its a nose heavy pig. I would just go 35 PSI all around.
Concerning tire weight capacity, rating is not at max sidewall pressure. SL/LL at 35psi and XL are 41psi. Read your tire sidewall to see if its SL or XL.
Concerning outside temp as a variables, you should be checking your PSI regularly so that you adapt to weather conditions and seasons. I find that TPMS is useless. Many trigger at too low of a PSI. And, those that report individual tire PSI are not always accurate. I guess that TPMS, along with all the other acronyms forced on the consumer, are there to make up for the owner incompetence.
I typical run a cold PSI 2-3 more than what is recommended by the auto manufacturer. Trying get that extra 1/10 of an MPG that I lost with thicker oil. I also like the better steering response of a little more PSI. I've been known to drop the PSI by 2-3 when there is snow on the ground for a better footprint/traction. Automakers balance NVH, handling, comfort, wear, MPG, traction.... with their tire PSI recommendation. I'm not an average consumer so I use PSI to get what I want from the vehicle!
I also have driven 30 years and have never seen lower pressure make the tires last longer. My experience is that along with the reduced rolling resistance, there is less heat/wear on the tires and they last longer. Concerning cross section wear, radials do a pretty good job preventing that when compared to bias-ply. I'd wager most complaining about cross section wear are lost in the world of pre 1990 bias-ply tires, simply spreading hearsay, or are using an excessively high or low PSI(usually low PSI and sometimes overloaded). There are plenty of cheap radials out there with issues regardless of PSI and alignment. The biggest thing that I've seen ruining tires is the alignment and excessively low PSI causing flat spotting and overheating.
When you look at the front to rear weight distribution, you'll understand the tire pressure difference and that 'comfort' is probably the optimization point and that dealer is giving you a couple extra PSI up front because he knows its a nose heavy pig. I would just go 35 PSI all around.
Concerning tire weight capacity, rating is not at max sidewall pressure. SL/LL at 35psi and XL are 41psi. Read your tire sidewall to see if its SL or XL.
Concerning outside temp as a variables, you should be checking your PSI regularly so that you adapt to weather conditions and seasons. I find that TPMS is useless. Many trigger at too low of a PSI. And, those that report individual tire PSI are not always accurate. I guess that TPMS, along with all the other acronyms forced on the consumer, are there to make up for the owner incompetence.
Skinnier tire is to prevent tire from turning into a plow stopping you dead in your tracks. And, I exactly get more traction with less tire pressure with no-season radials when I don't have snows, or drive the wrong vehicle to work without checking the weather report. I've also dropped tire PSI on many stuck vehicles to get them moving.
I don't have to deal with rain or even slush so don't care for that so-called non issue. Only cheap tires hydroplane when up or down a couple PSI. Never had that issue because when its snowing, you aint gonna be speeding unless you have a deathwish. Slush puddles usually hide deep potholes and only a moron would blindly race thru 'em.
Spring/Summer/Fall downpour is whole different story where more PSI, which helps, doesn't make up for idiots speeding.
I don't have to deal with rain or even slush so don't care for that so-called non issue. Only cheap tires hydroplane when up or down a couple PSI. Never had that issue because when its snowing, you aint gonna be speeding unless you have a deathwish. Slush puddles usually hide deep potholes and only a moron would blindly race thru 'em.
Spring/Summer/Fall downpour is whole different story where more PSI, which helps, doesn't make up for idiots speeding.
I have a v6 . I like to run with 32 lb. Because you get a better grip on the road and smoother ride.
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