Toyota Forum banner

Weird ignition system issue I’ve never seen before

1.6K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  Shanoplong15  
#1 · (Edited)
View attachment 433394 View attachment 433398
View attachment 433399
View attachment 433397
View attachment 433393
View attachment 433392
1990 Camry 3SFE Auto, engine rebuilt with about 67k miles on it, bored next size over from STD.

I’ve been noticing some weird ignition system issues lately, right now some slight misfiring at higher rpm’s, regardless of engine load, seems to run fine at idle. Apart from that the engine also pings pretty bad pulling hills and definitely has very noticeably less power on hotter days which might be normal.

In the recent past I replaced the distributor cap because it cracked badly on the outside near the coil contact in the cap, also replaced the rotor. Shortly after that in the span of about 15-20 minutes the engine gradually began to stumble and then it died and I had a no spark issue. I popped in a spare distributor that I carry in the trunk and drove home. In the original distributor I found that one magnetic pickup had come apart, so I replaced the pickups with another spare set I had and set the air gaps, still no spark. I spent hours trying to figure out why I had no spark on the original distributor and seemingly isolated it to the rotor, this is the first time I’ve ever had a rotor cause a no spark issue, could not see anything wrong with it and assumed it was somehow shorting on the distributor shaft, replaced it and had car up and running again.

Fast forward to today with the slight misfiring, I pulled all the plugs; #3 and #4 physically look different than #1 and #2 which you can see in pics, I think there may be separate issues which I will save for another post. Performed compression test with engine hot and throttle valve wide open, all cylinders range between 200-205psi (see note 1 at end). I popped distributor cap off to inspect all the contacts and then I noticed something I’ve never seen before and tried to take pics illustrating what I’m seeing which I hope you can see clearly; pins #2 and #3 show that spark has been occurring late as the carbon buildup is off to the side of the pin, instead of dead center in relation to the center pin for the coil, like with pins #1 and #4. I’m thinking this must be a mechanical issue related to the distributor and not something like with the igniter, but I’m struggling to understand what could be causing this, or how this could possibly be the magnetic pickups (see note 2 at end).

  • Note 1 - These readings seem to be a bit higher than factory specs, I’ve been running regular grade fuel (87 octane), maybe this engine actually needs to run on mid grade (89 octane) to compensate for the higher than normal compression so it doesn’t ping as much?
  • Note 2 - When I replaced the magnetic pickups, the manual actually states to replace the distributor housing and not the pickups and it also states to use non-ferrous feeler gauges. I’ve replaced the pickups before, but I definitely let the pickups touch the teeth on the tone wheels and I mistakenly used my steel feeler gauges which is boneheaded of me because I have a set of non-ferrous feeler gauges. I was almost thinking that I may have actually screwed up the magnetization between the magnetic pickups and the tone wheels on the distributor shaft, like slightly magnetizing the teeth on the tone wheels which could lead to a weak signal during operation, especially during higher rpm’s. Does anyone know if this is the reason for not replacing the pickups and using non-ferrous feeler gauges or if this is even possible? I can’t see any other reason why it’s so crucial in this case.
 
#4 ·
How sure are you that your distributor is the culprit? Have you put a stethoscope to all 4 injectors? Verified proper fuel pressure and whatnot?
 
#5 ·
It would appear that changing distributors made a difference in an engine not running to one that runs. So something is going on with the distributor.

First off, that rotor is not OEM. The part number for the rotor on your engine is 19102-11031. I've attached a picture of what a Toyota OEM rotor looks like with that part number. Doesn't look anything like yours. You have something that looks like it is glued on the rotor, in the middle of the conductor blade. The Toyota OEM rotor does not have that. Why does yours? Also, on your rotor, where the coil contact is (the center of the rotor), you have a lot of burn deposits at that contact point. That isn't good. That needs to be removed. Something tells me the distance of the end of the rotor blade to the pins on the cap is too far, causing arching. Looks to me that there is some incompatability with the cap/rotor, likely due to them being aftermarket. I would seek to get everything back to Toyota OEM on that distributor, if I were you.
Image
 
#6 ·

For what it's worth I use aftermarket rotors frequently on several cars, and all the "glue" in the middle is, is to secure the conductor blade. It's melted plastic. Never had any issues like OP has though. I've had plenty of them contact the points under the cap though. Doesn't seem to affect anything in my case either even after thousands of miles.
 
#7 ·
That rotor to be blunt looks incredibly cheap. Dunno about the replacements Toyota sells now (if still available) but the original looks like this. Has a carbon coating which makes it basically last forever.
Image


Have you checked for any codes? I recently had one bad TPS. No CEL I had to jumper the diag port before problem was reported.
 
#16 ·
That rotor to be blunt looks incredibly cheap. Dunno about the replacements Toyota sells now (if still available) but the original looks like this. Has a carbon coating which makes it basically last forever.
View attachment 433441

Have you checked for any codes? I recently had one bad TPS. No CEL I had to jumper the diag port before problem was reported.
Can confirm the rotor is still available. Bought one recently. Distributor cap with wires attached is too. 19101-74031.
 
#8 ·
I agree about getting this thing back to OEM. I am going to try and source an OEM cap, rotor and coil after I get paid. I took another look and also noticed excessive carbon deposits on the contact at the coil which is weird because I verified they are contacting each other and there isn’t more than around 1,500mi on all these components, this may be an issue with aftermarket parts being inferior to OEM quality which is throwing everything off.

I’ve never checked fuel pressure on this car, I would need to buy a gauge setup to do this so I’ll have to see how much that will cost me. Injectors should probably be replaced, they are original to the car and I never replaced them when the engine was rebuilt, all I did was run cleaner through them, replace seals and made sure ohms were within spec, but chances are at 348k miles on the OEM injectors, they’re just mechanically worn out internally?
 
#9 ·
Don't touch the fuel pump or injectors they will out last the car. Fuel filter on the other hand eventually needs to be replaced.

Turns out this is the part Toyota says replaces the original. Just as good? Can't say.

Original here

I'm currently using this distributor don't think the car runs quite as nice compared to OE (which leaks oil internally) maybe this one is better, a reman of the original. Only 1 left
 
#10 ·
Don't touch the fuel pump or injectors they will out last the car. Fuel filter on the other hand eventually needs to be replaced.
I wouldn't say not to touch the injectors, no doubt they will function for probably ever but it's still a good idea to get them serviced and cleaned whenever you have the chance to do so. Mine had poor spray patterns when I had them serviced. Noticeable difference in MPG's now. I've never used anything but high-tier quality fuel as well.

Poor spray patterns or a sticky injector will cause misfires, probably not to the degree OP is having (it looks like an incomplete fuel burn due to the plugs) but someone should always get theirs serviced if they're in doubt.
 
#11 ·
The OEM (not aftermarket) distributors are interchangeable between 1987 through 1991 right? Are any of you familiar with the magnetic pickups in the distributor being slightly bigger in the 1991 model, as compared to the smaller pickups in 1987-1990 models? Service manual also gives different ohm specs between the two variations. My car is a 1990, the failed magnetic pickups I tossed were the smaller ones and I installed the 1991 set that are bigger. I really didn’t think anything of it at the time and just assumed they were a more robust and updated design or something. I went and pulled an OEM distributor from a 1991 today and it has the same bigger magnetic pickups in it. I swapped over the coil, rotor and cap to it and absolutely no change in ignition system btw. Wondering if running the 1991 model year OEM pickups is causing issues with the rest of the 1990 model year components (ie: ECM, Ignitor)? I feel like this shouldn’t be an issue, any thoughts on the pickups being different? I can attach pics later if you need to see what I’m talking about.
 
#12 ·
I ran a 1990 distributor in my 1987 for years. I might have a 1991 in my parts bin not sure. What are the resistance readings?
I wouldn't say not to touch the injectors, no doubt they will function for probably ever but it's still a good idea to get them serviced and cleaned whenever you have the chance to do so. Mine had poor spray patterns when I had them serviced. Noticeable difference in MPG's now. I've never used anything but high-tier quality fuel as well.

Poor spray patterns or a sticky injector will cause misfires, probably not to the degree OP is having (it looks like an incomplete fuel burn due to the plugs) but someone should always get theirs serviced if they're in doubt.
I must be lucky I've never had a single injector problem on any Toyota, I've owned many. How much does it cost to have them serviced? What exactly is done to them?
 
#13 ·
Attached some pics of the difference between 1987-1990 and 1991 magnetic pickups in these distributors. 1991 has the bigger pickups and different ohm specs. I must have a pre-1991 copy of the factory service manual because it does not mention the two variations, but my Chilton manual does.

1987-1990: 140-180ohms cold
1991: 205-255ohms cold

I’m kinda thinking this will have no effect on the ignition system since it just sends a basic signal (AC voltage spike?) to the ECM, then ECM sends the signal to the Ignitor, according to wiring diagrams if I read it correctly. My uneducated guess is the 1991 pickups are an updated and more robust design?
 

Attachments

#17 · (Edited)
Toyota lists two rotors as being compatible. The one with the larger tip and the one with the smaller. I removed one with a smaller tip (the one 93celicaconv showed)that had been put on by a Toyota dealer in 2018 and replaced it from one I bought from a dealer that is the one 71Corolla showed when I did a tune up not 3 months ago.

The old one worked fine and never had any issues. I had thought I ordered the wrong one as it was so different but they both worked fine.

The Cap/Wires, rotor are all still available new from Toyota if you are going to buy them.

19102-16010 rotor with small carbon tip.
19102-11370 rotor with longer carbon tip
19101-74031 cap and wires. Spark plug wires are attached to the cap and not sold separately.