My oil pan is leaking some oil so I want to replace the gasket. To my understanding, Toyota doesn't have a dedicated gasket but FIPG gasket maker is used from factory. However I'm seeing aftermarket gaskets sold at autoparts made from cork rubber. Which type of gasket is recommended, the custom FIPG or cork rubber aftermarkets? TIA.
What to use for oil pan gasket replacement?
almighty
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My oil pan is leaking some oil so I want to replace the gasket. To my understanding, Toyota doesn't have a dedicated gasket but FIPG gasket maker is used from factory. However I'm seeing aftermarket gaskets sold at autoparts made from cork rubber. Which type of gasket is recommended, the custom FIPG or cork rubber aftermarkets? TIA.
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I used a gasket purchased from rockauto, and I received the incorrect gasket. I returned and ordered replacement from eBay motors, and received an incorrect gasket. I finally used some RTB and gasket material I purchased from advanced auto and it’s been over 40K and no leaks yet.
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I would only use rubber. BUT... 
I'm quite sure you could do what most do and clean the area of the leak and apply a liberal amount of silcone/gasket maker and never have another leak. I even used that for a leaking rusted oil pan one time long ago and it never leaked again. Every garage needs a tube of that.
I'm quite sure you could do what most do and clean the area of the leak and apply a liberal amount of silcone/gasket maker and never have another leak. I even used that for a leaking rusted oil pan one time long ago and it never leaked again. Every garage needs a tube of that. 
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Hmm, if no rubber gaskets are available, I would rather just make my own with hondabond. I think project farm on youtube did a review on different RTV compounds and Hondabond and the Chrysler Mopar RTVs were the best.
I hate using RTV and prefer molded rubber/silicone gaskets but if cork is the only option, I'd rather use RTV. Definitely don't use any metal tools to scrape the old gasket material off. Even the smallest hairline scratch on the mating surface can cause a pesky oil leak.
If there is a stubborn film layer of RTV left behind, you could use blue scotch brite pads and denatured alcohol/acetone.
And I've heard when making gaskets with RTV, you wanna hand tighten the oil pan bolts first, wait an hour, and then come back and torque them down in a star pattern. I would even let it sit and dry for 24-48 hours before refilling it with oil and driving the car. Some RTVs say oil safe in 90 mins but the longer you wait the better.
I hate using RTV and prefer molded rubber/silicone gaskets but if cork is the only option, I'd rather use RTV. Definitely don't use any metal tools to scrape the old gasket material off. Even the smallest hairline scratch on the mating surface can cause a pesky oil leak.
If there is a stubborn film layer of RTV left behind, you could use blue scotch brite pads and denatured alcohol/acetone.
And I've heard when making gaskets with RTV, you wanna hand tighten the oil pan bolts first, wait an hour, and then come back and torque them down in a star pattern. I would even let it sit and dry for 24-48 hours before refilling it with oil and driving the car. Some RTVs say oil safe in 90 mins but the longer you wait the better.
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Every garage DOES in fact need a few tubes. I applied a conservative amount and didn’t use a lot and it sealed perfectly.I would only use rubber. BUT...
If there's little chance of needing to remove the pan later, then RTV is the go-to. I use Permatex Ultra Black. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry, and follow the cure time requirement. If you use the faster curing FIPG, give it at least a couple of hours if you have the time. The Ultra Black requires 24hrs.
Rockauto does carry many gaskets, but as others said, they may not be correct. If they're, then Fel-Pro is my go-to.
Rockauto 5% off discount code if you buy there, scroll to the latest post:
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/rockauto-discount-code.360084/page-24
Rockauto does carry many gaskets, but as others said, they may not be correct. If they're, then Fel-Pro is my go-to.
2008 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 Oil Pan Gasket | Shop Now at RockAuto
Engine Parts and More for Your 2008 TOYOTA COROLLA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
Rockauto 5% off discount code if you buy there, scroll to the latest post:
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/rockauto-discount-code.360084/page-24
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Exactly what previous response stated. Use a plastic scraper and some googone and get it as clean as you can. Then you can apply some gasket maker and reapply oil pan. Go finger tight and let sit for a while. Then go back and torque. I torqued at 18 or 26 I mad I remember correctly.
This is the way.
06 Corolla, oil pan leaking. I did the clean and RTV twice the leak came back.
Got a OEM pan gasket (Cork) applied a thin film of Permatex® High Tack® Gasket Sealant, 4 OZ – Permatex Been good for years.
Got a OEM pan gasket (Cork) applied a thin film of Permatex® High Tack® Gasket Sealant, 4 OZ – Permatex Been good for years.
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is cork rubber not good enough? I kinda dislike fipg because it is easy to mess up the application directionsI would only use rubber. BUT...
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what's wrong with cork rubber?
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Why is fipg better than a rubber cork gasket?
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fipg failed too
No matter what, things will leak. FIPG would have a way lower chance to leak. If you have problems with leak then it would be more likely a warped oil pan or previous service error. The oil pan FIPG should last over 200k from factory. Never even had to touch mine.
also, more importantly. Leaks are more likely the timing chain tensioner o ring. Or the valve cover leaking down. So I’d check those first.
also, more importantly. Leaks are more likely the timing chain tensioner o ring. Or the valve cover leaking down. So I’d check those first.
It likely failed due to improper cure time. The manual states 24 hour cure time. Need a 3mm bead around the pan.
My son did the oil pan on his matrix xrs. Due to his impatience, it leaked due to not allowing the fipg proper cure.
edit : that permatex 5 min cure ain’t worth the claim. That leaked too.
My son did the oil pan on his matrix xrs. Due to his impatience, it leaked due to not allowing the fipg proper cure.
edit : that permatex 5 min cure ain’t worth the claim. That leaked too.
The factory uses FIPG, so that's what I recommend. If you use a rubber or cork (or whatever material) gasket, the torque specs will not apply. The factory torque specs are meant specifically for the FIPG. Aisin makes a FIPG (buy online or at your local Napa store) as well as affordable Permatex black or gray. I used Permatex gray on the timing cover with no problems. I let it cure for 24 hours before I refilled with oil. HondaBond is another popular one.
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oil pan is good, so is timing chain tensioner o ring and valve cover. only other leak is rear main seal but the leak is not too bad
thanks ill follow the directions then
that makes sense to stick to factory, but i since fipg is just silicone i dont think its as strong as rubber cork
Toyota uses FIPG and specified it for majority of their motors. One challenge is not to use too much and not too little in certain areas of the engine.
For example, when you change your valve cover gasket, there’s a seam for the timing cover. You apply a small bead of FIPG to seal so that the gasket is sealed at the timing cover seam.
In the FSM, they accounted for pressure to push out to the edge of the oil pan and to the inside of the short block. If you put too large of a bead on the inside edge of the pan, it would fall into the pan and get stuck in the oil pickup or somewhere you don’t want it to be. The outside edge of the pan it doesn’t matter as it won’t interfere with the engine.
The same rule applies to the timing cover. With too much FIPG, it’ll make its way through and cause leaks and potentially clog the oil pickup.
@John Anthony is correct when using cork or rubber gasket. The torque specification doesn’t apply to the added thickness of the gasket.
Important thing is, allow time for it to cure before adding oil to the engine.
For example, when you change your valve cover gasket, there’s a seam for the timing cover. You apply a small bead of FIPG to seal so that the gasket is sealed at the timing cover seam.
In the FSM, they accounted for pressure to push out to the edge of the oil pan and to the inside of the short block. If you put too large of a bead on the inside edge of the pan, it would fall into the pan and get stuck in the oil pickup or somewhere you don’t want it to be. The outside edge of the pan it doesn’t matter as it won’t interfere with the engine.
The same rule applies to the timing cover. With too much FIPG, it’ll make its way through and cause leaks and potentially clog the oil pickup.
@John Anthony is correct when using cork or rubber gasket. The torque specification doesn’t apply to the added thickness of the gasket.
Important thing is, allow time for it to cure before adding oil to the engine.
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