The second one is called a RELAY, STARTER INRUSH CURRENT REDUCTION.
"The starter inrush current reduction relay prevents the battery voltage from becoming dropping excessively while the starter assembly is operating."

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2022_Highlander/62924086__8292641/STARTER/526430-1904.html

 

The second one is called a RELAY, STARTER INRUSH CURRENT REDUCTION.
"The starter inrush current reduction relay prevents the battery voltage from becoming dropping excessively while the starter assembly is operating."

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2022_Highlander/62924086__8292641/STARTER/526430-1904.html

sdspeed, thanks for your answer!

The second (RELAY) - on the photo, is it the one on the LEFT or on the RIGHT?

 

when I saw that, I said to myself, that is a capacitor. Yes, basically surge control. IMHO

could also be used to send a higher spike of voltage instantly like the battery jumpers do. Depends on how it is used and wired.

 

I would think that the starter solenoid is on the left since it has the bare large power wire (green arrow) going to the starter motor. So the “kill switch” should be in the “here runs a black wire“ marked by the yellow arrow. Quick check would be disconnect the connector (yellow arrow) if it gets power only when the key is in the start position that’s the wire.

 

I would think that the starter solenoid is on the left since it has the bare large power wire (green arrow) going to the starter motor. So the “kill switch” should be in the “here runs a black wire“ marked by the yellow arrow. Quick check would be disconnect the connector (yellow arrow) if it gets power only when the key is in the start position that’s the wire.

Pvt-Public, thanks.

But, based on the diagram https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2022_Highlander/62924086__8292641/STARTER/526430-1904.html
the left solenoid (with black wire running to it) - is part # 28249
And part # 28249 is - RELAY, STARTER INRUSH CURRENT REDUCTION

 

The 2GR six cylinder engines WITHOUT the Stop/Start system only have the "Magnet Starter Switch".
The 2GR engines WITH the Stop/Start System have BOTH the "Magnet Starter Switch" and the "Starter Inrush Current Reduction Relay".
The MSS and the SICRR are connected in series between the battery and the starter motor so disabling the control signal to either one of them should prevent starting.

However, it may be easier to disable BOTH of them by interrupting the control signal at or near the "ST Relay" (See green notations below).

The down side to interrupting this control signal at any point is the current rating of the fuses: 30 Amps. Any added wiring or switches must be rated to carry 30 Amps or greater. It would be possible to interrupt the coil side of the ST Relay (which likely carries much less current and would accomplish the same results) but now you are dealing with a circuit that is directly connected to a couple of ECUs. This is left as an exercise for the reader . . .

DISCLAIMER: I have no idea if this will adversely affect the vehicle in any other way so proceed at your own risk.

Schematic Diagram:
Note: Both ST NO.1 and ST NO.2 are 30 Amp fuses.
Any added wiring or switches must be rated to carry 30 Amps or greater.

Parts Location:

Pin out for the ST Relay:

 

Why a kill switch? Doesn't the car have a security system? Usually the built in theft deterrent systems work very well. Any modifications not done by toyota may allow them to void warranty.

 

There are other posts in this forum talking about the advanced electronics people have to capture and replicate the signals from you FOB. This allows them to open your door, start a car with push button start and drive it away.

I am disappointed to see Toyota has not found a way to overcome this. I am considering adding a switch as well.

2021 Highlander stolen on Thanksgiving

Hey Guys. Want to share what happened to me during this Thanksgiving holiday. I’m from NYC but was visiting Montreal. (Did not know at the time that’s it’s like the capital of auto thefts). While in Montreal parked my Highlander at the hotel outdoors parking lot. At around 3am I got up to grab...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Planning to install a kill switch on the starter.
Normally I would cut the thin cable of the starter and install the kill switch on it.

First and foremost - this is your car, do whatever you want to it.

That said, please, Please, PLEASE DO NOT CUT any wires. There is a connector on the end of almost every electrical item in that vehicle. We can all use proper connectors. We can all wire things properly. There should never be a question like, "I wonder if there's a bad connection or a short in my work?" Even if you don't mind the cutting of a perfectly intact and functional wire, any future owners may, especially if they don't know about it in advance. Using the correct connectors and a doing a proper job wiring should mean no mystery problems, and this also allows for a simple test if you develop a problem with the additional security system, by just removing it and reconnecting the factory ends. All for a just few dollars and some time. Almost every connector in that vehicle, if not literally every connector in that vehicle, can be bought at Toyota. Most for less than $10 I bet. Proper GXL and TXL wire can easily be found on the Interwebs, also for very little money. You don't even have to match the factory wire colors since it's just a jumper (for the most part).

As GasStrut describes, some wires will pull a great deal of current, and any work done on them should be done with a good deal of care. Also, in the illustrations GasStrut provided, you can see that the car uses the PRNDL to tell the engine when it should start and stop. Since the PRNDL is now often an interior device that uses very low current, you could simply interrupt this signal wire (preferably with a proper set of connectors and wiring) to act as a secondary security device. If there is no signal from the PRNDL, the Stop-and-Start ECU should not allow you to start the engine.


- recalled

 

Personally, I can reliably cut and splice wires. If a jumper harness has to be created with connectors on each end and multiple terminals crimped onto wires, there is much more opportunity for problems to arise. Not to mention you need to source the connectors and terminals, and need a proper crimping tool, which are often pretty expensive
.

 

Personally, I can reliably cut and splice wires.

That's great! I don't know that everybody else can, though. I am not continuing this because I want to aggravate anyone or stir the pot, but honestly much of the fabrication or wiring work I've seen done by DIY folks is fairly crap. There's a reason most people are amazed when they actually see a DIY fab or wiring job that is done well.

A Hozan open barrel crimp tool suitable for most automotive connectors (Toyota and other manufacturers usually source from only a few connector companies) is maybe $50. Using such a tool, some quality (hopefully GXL or TXL) wire, and connectors with the correct terminals, will not notably increase the odds of a problem. If someone can't use a tool designed and manufactured for use on those connectors, then I can't see them doing a nice, clean, reliable job when not using the tool and connectors and instead just splicing stuff together. That $50 cost for the tool would be more than worth having trouble due to a wiring problem when out somewhere; and then it can be used again or even loaned out if someone wanted to do that. YMMV.

And, as I prefaced my original post to this thread, "First and foremost - this is your car, do whatever you want to it." Which includes using Scotch-Splice connectors, or Telco connectors, or wire nuts, or simply twisting the wires together and wrapping the knot with tape. While the OP may ask my help, they may also tell me to sod off. Either way, I'm likely to comply. But none of this means it's not a shame to cut perfectly good wires. Especially outside the passenger cabin.


- recalled

 

It used to be the solenoid both engaged the starter gear with the flywheel by pushing on the end of the starter motor shaft, and then made the high current electrical contact to drive the starter motor. IDK about the HL. Those two functions might be separate, or the starter might use some other method of engagement, like a sprag clutch or something.

 

That's how it appears to me, too. I've never seen separate solenoids on a starter before this.

 

View attachment 406536
Parts Location:
View attachment 406537

Pin out for the ST Relay:
View attachment 406538
[/QUOTE]

Does the coil which pulls in the "ST relay" above (terminals # 1 and 2) draw less current than 30 amps? If so, it would make sense to interrupt this wire.

Is this mounted on the left front inner fender?

 

Thank you all for contributing!

HappyHollowView,
I am a bit confused..

Based on the diagram:

• part# 28249 corresponds to "Solenoid #1" on my photo. Correct?
• part# 28226B corresponds to "Solenoid #2" on my photo. Correct?

From part list:
Part# 28249 is Relay, starter inrush current reduction
Part# 28226B is Starter Solenoid

So in other words:

• "Solenoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Solenoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?


I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

If I will disconnect black wire from "Solenoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

 

View attachment 406729

View attachment 406730

View attachment 406731

Thank you all for contributing!

HappyHollowView,
I am a bit confused..

Based on the diagram:

• part# 28249 corresponds to "Soledoid #1" on my photo. Correct?
• part# 28226B corresponds to "Soledoid #2" on my photo. Correct?

From part list:
Part# 28249 is Relay, starter inrush current reduction
Part# 28226B is Starter Solenoid

So in other words:

• "Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Soledoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?


I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

If I will disconnect black wire from "Soledoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

The black wire is the boss. Disconnect it and turn the key. The engine will not turn over until you put the black wire back on the solenoid. Your job is to install a hidden normally open switch in series with the black wire.

 

This one looks better:
433 Mhz Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 1CH Relay Receiver Module and RF Transmitter Electronic Lock Control with 2 Antennas Remote Control - - Amazon.com

 

This device appears to have a relay rated at only 10 Amps.
Not a good choice for a 30 Amp circuit.

 

Thanks romanjohn, GasStrut!

Makes sense to try to take the fuse out first and try to start the car.

About the kill switch device - I plan to install Turbo-Kill Automobile Security System
Now I need to find out if the gauge of the wires (that should go in between solenoid and fuse box) will support 30A current.

 

About the kill switch device - I plan to install Turbo-Kill Automobile Security System
Now I need to find out if the gauge of the wires (that should go in between solenoid and fuse box) will support 30A current.

FYI The link to their website says they are going out of business. May not be a good choice to install.

I am not sure if I would install a $25 wireless switch either. This is a simplistic system (single frequency) which would be easy to capture and reproduce the code. Most good wireless alarms have continiously variable frequencies to prevent this.

 

Made the test with the fuses.

1. ST NO.1 is IN, ST NO.2 is OUT => Start push button => Car started like nothing happened

2. ST NO.1 is OUT, ST NO.2 is IN => Start push button => Car did NOT start

Your thoughts guys?

 

1. ST NO.1 is IN, ST NO.2 is OUT => Start push button => Car started like nothing happened

This tells us that disconnecting just the BLACK wire ("Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction) will not disable the starter.

2. ST NO.1 is OUT, ST NO.2 is IN => Start push button => Car did NOT start

What this tells us is one of two things:
1. Disconnecting the WHITE wire by itself MAY disable the starter.
OR
2. BOTH BLACK and WHITE wires need to be disconnected to disable the starter.

I'm guessing that disconnecting just the WHITE wire would probably work but I can't say for sure.

 

Just curious, what happens if you take out the starter relay? 'ST' shown on the cover is the starter relay, correct?

 

Removing the starter relay accomplishes the same thing as removing the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.1". The fuse and the relay contacts are connected in series. Removing either one opens up the same circuit.

 

Putting a relay inline of the w/b wire to the starter relay will diable the starter circuit with single low amprage relay! Right?
Just a thought!

 

Putting a relay inline of the w/b wire to the starter RELAY will disable the starter circuit with single low amperage relay! Right?
Just a thought!

Correct. It may be just a little tricky getting to the relay coil wires but yes, that would work.

 

Back in the day, the starter motor reduction was its small pinion against the large diameter flywheel. Big starter motor and big current. Diagrams for the HL show a small starter motor with a planetary reduction, so motor is smaller and higher rpm, perhaps requiring less peak current?

 

Here is a YouTube video that (eventually) shows how to access the top side of the (hidden) ST starter relay. The ST starter relay is the purple one in the video.
I believe there is another set of fasteners that then allows the fuse/relay panel to be separated so you can access the wiring beneath.
Proceed at your own risk.

YouTube - Highlander Relay Access

 

@GasStrut please check this image.

Can you confirm this: kill switch could be inline installed / positioned on "Position 1" OR "Position 2".

Which position do you think is better (1 or 2) ?

Thank you GasStrut !

 

To answer original OP post....Why two solenoids? So why does the the original cranking to start the V6 take a few seconds while a start/stop restart is instantaneous without require a few seconds of cranking? Two solenoids. I'd find out what what controlled what before screwing with any wiring

The GM system in my Silverado also has start stop and utilizes a one piece dual solenoid whereas seems Toyota uses two. Assuming they use the same basic logic system to achieve an instantaeous re start of a stopped engine-------- Starter motor shaft consists of two clutched parts, the motor armature shaft is split from the starter drive gear shaft that engages the flywheel.....one solenoid independent engages the starter motor shaft and the other independent solenoid engages the flywheel.

During a "normal" cold crank both solenoids engage and the starter motor armature shaft clutches to the starter motor gear shaft which moves forward engaging the flywheel and the engine cranks for a second or two before starting.

For a "recrank" of an engine that is stopped "to save gas" as part of the start/stop system.......As the vehicle slows to a stop and engine rpm drops the flywheel solenoid activates and gear mates with the flywheel at around 4 mph and under--- no grinding because the engine's crankshaft sensor in conjunction with the CPU/electronics times the engagement so the unpowered starter motor gear engages the flywheel without gear clashing...a call for acceleration above 4 mph before stopping will instantly disengage the starter gear. When activated at a stop, foot off brake/accelerator calls for a restart from the start/stop position the other solenoid activates which clutches the two halves of the starter shaft to power the flywheel. The instant restart without seconds of cranking is accomplished by the electronics in conjunction with the mechanicals. When the engine is stopped the electronics, camshaft sensor, have determined valve position and identified the next cylinder in the firing order......fuel and spark is directed first to that cylinder at the instant that the starter armature shaft solenoid is powered to engage the starter gear shaft which is already engaged to the flywheel. Time saved in this manner accounts for lack of cranking for the restart.

That's likely why two Toy solenoids.......and why I routinely turn off the annoying system by pressing the s/s defeat button which is conveniently located when initially using the gearshift.

 

UPDATE: I tried to get access to the relay area, but it's too complicated (need to disconnect multiple cables inside fuse box, pull a bunch of cables through an orifice, etc..) .. also low temperatures outside don't help...
Would appreciate if anybody has other helpful information on this topic.
Thank you all that contributed!

 

If you are trying to get to the wiring for the relay, a full factory wiring diagram of the circuit would help, it will have the information on where the wires are from and where you might find a connection to spiece into.

 

Agreed
Even if I will get to the relay box and all wires under relay box - I would need the wiring diagram.
Anybody knows where to get it?

 

lightfreak, thank you!

Anybody has experience disconnecting the white&black wire connector?
I tried, but with no luck. Don't want to break any plastic in it.

 

That is a useless wiring diagram, it doesn't show the motor armature solenoid or the current reduction relay in a sufficient manner to give guidance on what you want to do. There are B and W wires called out in several locations--are they the same wires, where are they from and what do they do? Plus calling something S#1 and S#2 is confusing. Where do the 2 fuses get power and which direction is current flow in the ST2 fuse?

The only armature SOLENOID on this starter is on the Left in the picture; The Current Reduction RELAY is on the Right.

If your car has the Start/Stop system that Thomcat described, then you are messing with more than just a simple relay. Look at the Starter ST Relay--it has 2 separate control wires to engage the coil (a B and a W). Where are they from and what controls the operation of the ST Relay? Likely the Vehicle Control Unit, whatever the ECU is called.

The black wire may be from a position sensor in the Solenoid that signals to the ECU whether or not the armature is engaged--as shown in the diagram you just don't know how the system works or what it is doing.

It looks like one way to disable the car is to interrupt the W-B wire (white with black tracer) shown on the ST relay.

 

@GasStrut Thanks a lot!
Those diagrams are valuable! WOuld you be able to attach the source (pdf...) into here? Would be great to have it saved in the computer for future reference.

 

The diagrams are from the factory service manuals. They are very complete and there are hundreds of .pdfs for one vehicle model. Unfortunately, they are copyrighted by Toyota and can't be posted in their entirety. I haven't been admonished by the moderators (yet) for posting excerpts from them but I have seen it happen for posting entire volumes.

However, Toyota does make them available through their TIS (Technical Information System) web site here:
Toyota Technical Information System

It is available by subscription to anyone. For us common folks they charge $20 for two days access.

 

Looks like there is a junction there for the white/black wire, between the relay and the ground point, where is that located at?

 

That is a "Splice" rather than a "Junction Connector" like A79. It probably happens inside of a wiring harness. Unfortunately there is no location information given for "Splices".

But yes, it may be useful if you could find it.

 

@GasStrut got it, thank you anyways for posting partial diagrams, exactly what I needed!