[ihtus]

Thank you all for contributing!

HappyHollowView,
I am a bit confused..

Based on the diagram:

• part# 28249 corresponds to "Solenoid #1" on my photo. Correct?
• part# 28226B corresponds to "Solenoid #2" on my photo. Correct?

From part list:
Part# 28249 is Relay, starter inrush current reduction
Part# 28226B is Starter Solenoid

So in other words:

• "Solenoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Solenoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?


I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

If I will disconnect black wire from "Solenoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

 

[romanjohn1001]

View attachment 406729

View attachment 406730

View attachment 406731

Thank you all for contributing!

HappyHollowView,
I am a bit confused..

Based on the diagram:

• part# 28249 corresponds to "Soledoid #1" on my photo. Correct?
• part# 28226B corresponds to "Soledoid #2" on my photo. Correct?

From part list:
Part# 28249 is Relay, starter inrush current reduction
Part# 28226B is Starter Solenoid

So in other words:

• "Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Soledoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?


I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

If I will disconnect black wire from "Soledoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

The black wire is the boss. Disconnect it and turn the key. The engine will not turn over until you put the black wire back on the solenoid. Your job is to install a hidden normally open switch in series with the black wire.

 

[romanjohn1001]

View attachment 406729

View attachment 406730

View attachment 406731

Thank you all for contributing!

HappyHollowView,
I am a bit confused..

Based on the diagram:

• part# 28249 corresponds to "Soledoid #1" on my photo. Correct?
• part# 28226B corresponds to "Soledoid #2" on my photo. Correct?

From part list:
Part# 28249 is Relay, starter inrush current reduction
Part# 28226B is Starter Solenoid

So in other words:

• "Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Soledoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?


I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

If I will disconnect black wire from "Soledoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

I would install something on the lines of this remote controlled switch:
dstfuy Wireless Remote Switch 12V,DC 12V/24V/48V/72V/40A Relay,Wireless RF Switch for Anti-Theft Alarms,Roller Lind Door,Gate Barriers with 328ft Long Range(12V Remote Switch): Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

• 
  

Click image to open expanded view

 

[romanjohn1001]

This one looks better:
433 Mhz Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 1CH Relay Receiver Module and RF Transmitter Electronic Lock Control with 2 Antennas Remote Control - - Amazon.com

 

[GasStrut]

View attachment 406729

So in other words:

• "Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction
• "Soledoid #2" = Starter Solenoid

Please confirm, is all above correct?

Yes, the above is correct.

I also wonder which wire is 30 Amp - white or black ?

They are BOTH 30 Amp. See diagram below.

If I will disconnect black wire from "Soledoid #1" => that means I will disconnect "Relay, starter inrush". Will that prevent starting the car?
Or is it better to disconnect the white wire ?

Refer to the diagram below. Just as a test, if you were to pull the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.2" it would be the same as disconnecting the black wire. This would be an easy way to determine if disconnecting the black wire (Soledoid #1 = Relay, starter inrush current reduction) would accomplish what you want.

Also, if you were to pull the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.1" it would be the same as disconnecting BOTH the black and white wires.

I don't know if disconnecting the white or black wire is more effective but pulling fuses may help determine that.

Having said the above, I do think it would be far better to consider disconnecting the coil side of the "ST Relay". It would accomplish the same thing as disconnecting BOTH the black and white starter wires and that circuit very likely carries less than half an amp. Much better approach.

The 30 Amp fuses are both located as shown below:

 

[GasStrut]

This one looks better:
433 Mhz Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 1CH Relay Receiver Module and RF Transmitter Electronic Lock Control with 2 Antennas Remote Control - - Amazon.com View attachment 406748

This device appears to have a relay rated at only 10 Amps.
Not a good choice for a 30 Amp circuit.

 

[ihtus]

Thanks romanjohn, GasStrut!

Makes sense to try to take the fuse out first and try to start the car.

About the kill switch device - I plan to install Turbo-Kill Automobile Security System
Now I need to find out if the gauge of the wires (that should go in between solenoid and fuse box) will support 30A current.

 

[dcm0123]

About the kill switch device - I plan to install Turbo-Kill Automobile Security System
Now I need to find out if the gauge of the wires (that should go in between solenoid and fuse box) will support 30A current.

FYI The link to their website says they are going out of business. May not be a good choice to install.

I am not sure if I would install a $25 wireless switch either. This is a simplistic system (single frequency) which would be easy to capture and reproduce the code. Most good wireless alarms have continiously variable frequencies to prevent this.

 

[ihtus]

FYI The link to their website says they are going out of business. May not be a good choice to install.

Used that device for about 10 years on my previous car (Honda). Very reliable. He is still selling them on ebay.

 

[romanjohn1001]

Thanks romanjohn, GasStrut!

Makes sense to try to take the fuse out first and try to start the car.

About the kill switch device - I plan to install Turbo-Kill Automobile Security System
Now I need to find out if the gauge of the wires (that should go in between solenoid and fuse box) will support 30A current.

30 amps calls for 10 AWG, but I'm sure that #12 AWG would be just fine for intermittent use.

 

[ihtus]

Made the test with the fuses.

1. ST NO.1 is IN, ST NO.2 is OUT => Start push button => Car started like nothing happened

2. ST NO.1 is OUT, ST NO.2 is IN => Start push button => Car did NOT start

Your thoughts guys?

 

[GasStrut]

1. ST NO.1 is IN, ST NO.2 is OUT => Start push button => Car started like nothing happened

This tells us that disconnecting just the BLACK wire ("Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction) will not disable the starter.

2. ST NO.1 is OUT, ST NO.2 is IN => Start push button => Car did NOT start

What this tells us is one of two things:
1. Disconnecting the WHITE wire by itself MAY disable the starter.
OR
2. BOTH BLACK and WHITE wires need to be disconnected to disable the starter.

I'm guessing that disconnecting just the WHITE wire would probably work but I can't say for sure.

 

[ihtus]

This tells us that disconnecting just the BLACK wire ("Soledoid #1" = Relay, starter inrush current reduction) will not disable the starter.



What this tells us is one of two things:
1. Disconnecting the WHITE wire by itself MAY disable the starter.
OR
2. BOTH BLACK and WHITE wires need to be disconnected to disable the starter.

I'm guessing that disconnecting just the WHITE wire would probably work but I can't say for sure.

yep, was thinking the same.
I assume there is no easy 'fuse' method to disconnect only the white wire..

The possible issues:
1. If there is a need to have both wires (black + white) disconnected - I won't be able to use ONE kill switch.. will have to use 2 switches.
2. The space to operate / cut / connect kill switch on the white wire - very tight.. much less space than for black wire..

 

[new echo owner]

Just curious, what happens if you take out the starter relay? 'ST' shown on the cover is the starter relay, correct?

 

[GasStrut]

Just curious, what happens if you take out the starter relay? 'ST' shown on the cover is the starter relay, correct?

Removing the starter relay accomplishes the same thing as removing the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.1". The fuse and the relay contacts are connected in series. Removing either one opens up the same circuit.

 

[new echo owner]

Removing the starter relay accomplishes the same thing as removing the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.1". The fuse and the relay contacts are connected in series. Removing either one opens up the same circuit.

In other words, the starter won't work, correct?

 

[GasStrut]

I assume there is no easy 'fuse' method to disconnect only the white wire..

Correct. The white wire is not individually fused.

The possible issues:
1. If there is a need to have both wires (black + white) disconnected - I won't be able to use ONE kill switch.. will have to use 2 switches.

If you insert the Turbo-Kill relay in the coil circuit of the "ST Starter Relay" you would:
1. Only need one kill switch.
2. Effectively disconnect BOTH the black and white wires.
3. Be working with much lighter gauge wire.
4. Be interrupting a circuit that likely carries less than half an amp of current.
5. Be able to conceal the Turbo-Kill relay and wiring beneath the fuse and relay panel.

2. The space to operate / cut / connect kill switch on the white wire - very tight.. much less space than for black wire..

Their MIGHT be a little more room to work under the fuse and relay panel once you gain access to that area.

 

[GasStrut]

In other words, the starter won't work, correct?

As @ihtus demonstrated by removing the 30 Amp fuse "ST No.1", you are correct.

 

[ihtus]

Correct. The white wire is not individually fused.


If you insert the Turbo-Kill relay in the coil circuit of the "ST Starter Relay" you would:
1. Only need one kill switch.
2. Effectively disconnect BOTH the black and white wires.
3. Be working with much lighter gauge wire.
4. Be interrupting a circuit that likely carries less than half an amp of current.
5. Be able to conceal the Turbo-Kill relay and wiring beneath the fuse and relay panel.


Their MIGHT be a little more room to work under the fuse and relay panel once you gain access to that area.
View attachment 406761

GasStrut, very interesting idea to work under the fuse box instead of starter area. Thank you for bringing that in!

That "ST Relay" is it physically located under the fuse box?
Is it same relay as on your diagram that you showed earlier (see image below)?

GasStrut, why do you think the amperage on that relay is much smaller than 30A ?

 

[new echo owner]

Putting a relay inline of the w/b wire to the starter relay will diable the starter circuit with single low amprage relay! Right?
Just a thought!