Check the MAP sensor, including the vacuum hose from sensor <-> to Intake manifold for any leaks.

 

Are you certain the 1mz uses a MAP sensor? Service manual only shows "air flow meter" otherwise called the MAF sensor. I will be testing it tomorrow with a multimeter.

 

97 V6 Camry

 

You likely have a check engine light on now - you should put a scanner on your OBD2 port and see what codes are set. That may help you narrow the possibilities down a bit. You must have touched something in your previous work that is now causing this issue, or your coil packs are not correct for this engine (or the col packs are not connected properly - do you have the proper plug wire leads to the back cylinders connected to the correct coil packs?).

 

No codes surprisingly. Wires are 100% correctly ordered, coil packs fire the spark plugs. I know this because I had taken a spark plug out while still connected, and had my gf crank it over with it hovering over the valve cover.

 

how about disconnecting battery for a minute... see if it resets

 

I can give it a try, albeit the battery is dead, so everytime I want to crank the engine I need a jump starter.

 

Yes get the battery working first, in case that's contributing to the problem. Make sure when the car is running the battery gets about 13.5-14.5 volts.

Would the car start or keep running if the throttle is partially depressed? If so I'd pull out the IAC and fully clean it by carefully removing the magnetic motor (stator), not just viewing on a scanner.

I'd also check and maybe replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (2-wire sensor, not the 1-wire gauge sender). Double check with an ohmmeter, rather than just a scanner.

 

Coolant sensor seemed fine with the ohmmeter. Ran within spec.

I can definitely take a look at the IAC. Heard them screws suck to take out, but worth a shot! Thanks.

 

As an update:

I had a cracked air intake hose, replaced that. Also, there was a vacuum line unplugged to the throttle body.

With that in order, the car now starts without the pedal fully depressed, and without wide open throttle. However, it still stalls, albeit it doesn’t need nearly as much rpm (4-5k before, now about 3k.)

It will not idle by itself, it still needs throttle input.

It ALMOST wants to hold, without me doing anything it stayed going for about 10 seconds, and violent shaking.

There seems to be a relief of pressure coming from the injector area, not sure what that’s about yet.

Resistance wise, MAF IAC and ECT are within spec. Will keep looking into it another day, need to get a trickle charger for this battery if it’s salvageable.

 

"no crank/no start" could indicate that the neutral safety module is not functioning properly. There are several electrical contacts within the NSS that tend to develop corrosion after many years. It is not too difficult to remove the NSS, located in the vicinity of the steering column, disassemble it, and clean the copper contacts with a fine abrasuve paper, followed by electrical contact cleaner and a liberal coating of dielectruc grease. The dielectric grease helps to prevent water and humidity contamination. An alternative approach is to purchase a new NSS.

Did u read the thread? Not one mention of a no crank condition

 

Id reset computer and try, try, again. Had similar issue. Swapped air intake filter sensor, coolant sensor, distributor (magnetic sensor was out of spec) and flushed radiator/ coolant. Been running smooth for a month or so. Almost forgot, check the position crank sensor if you haven't already.

 

New coil packs, plugs, wires. Pretty much a tune up.
Ran fine prior to me touching around. Like no issues, just a mild idle shutter.

Greetings - just caught this in your initial post.

Kindly suggest going back and re-checking your work: make sure spark plugs are snug and firing order is correct also.