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Wired jump start cables incorrectly and now car won't turn on.

4K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Luna2  
#1 ·
As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.

My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player

What do you guys believe is wrong with the car? I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?

I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.

Can anyone help?
 
#4 · (Edited)
yep, I believe it should be marked as "main" on the fuse box cover and in the manual.
I accidentally grounded positive terminal on nissan quest once, main fuse was blown, car was dead, but after I replaced it car started like nothing happened.
also see if you can find fuse link, usually it located some where on the cable going from ignition to starter. I've seen it on older cars and not sure if camry has it.
this link goes bad in case of the surge and protects starter.
 
#6 ·
I'd keep looking at fuses and fusible links. There should be more fuses to the left of the steering wheel maybe behind a 'coin' drawer. Many vehicles have two fuse box panels under the hood but the one closest to the battery would be the most likely IMHO. Is there one marked EFI or something similar? I don't have my cars or manuals available at the moment so I can't look.
 
#7 ·
In my manual, either fuse 15 or 16 could be the culprit. Both of them are in the same long fuse and it is a PITA to change out. It is only available from the dealer parts department.
 
#8 ·
In my manual, either fuse 15 or 16 could be the culprit. Both of them are in the same long fuse and it is a PITA to change out. It is only available from the dealer parts department.
I'd keep looking at fuses and fusible links. There should be more fuses to the left of the steering wheel maybe behind a 'coin' drawer. Many vehicles have two fuse box panels under the hood but the one closest to the battery would be the most likely IMHO. Is there one marked EFI or something similar? I don't have my cars or manuals available at the moment so I can't look.
I replaced my fuses 8, 14, 15, 17 and 35. Still no start. Any other possibilities?

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yep, I believe it should be marked as "main" on the fuse box cover and in the manual.
I accidentally grounded positive terminal on nissan quest once, main fuse was blown, car was dead, but after I replaced it car started like nothing happened.
also see if you can find fuse link, usually it located some where on the cable going from ignition to starter. I've seen it on older cars and not sure if camry has it.
this link goes bad in case of the surge and protects starter
The main fuse wasn't blown to begin with. I don't know what other possibilities there are.

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#12 · (Edited)
I replaced my fuses 8, 14, 15, 17 and 35. Still no start. Any other possibilities?

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The main fuse wasn't blown to begin with. I don't know what other possibilities there are.

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Are you looking at the fuses or using a VOM to check them?

Also the year and whether you have an I4 or V6 will help, because the fuses are numbered differently.
 
#9 ·
You are overlooking something. Where did you buy all the new fuses you installed? Are you looking at fuses that don't look like fuses? Get your volt meter out and track from the battery to the fuse box and see where the power stops. If you don't own a volt meter, then this is all above your pay grade and you need to haul it to someone who can fix it.
 
#14 ·
This is a very simple problem if you know what you are doing and nothing but a head scratcher if you don't. You merely need to trace the voltage to the point it stops to find the problem. Just like any electronic circuit board, only bigger. Find a good repair guy and it will be running in 30 minutes.