Likely blew a fusible link but I am not familiar with where it/they are. Honestly I have never dug into anything more complicated than an oil change on mine and even then it pretty much always gets done at dealer. Lots of wrenching experience. But on Mopar not Toyota

 

The fusible links are those long orange bars in your fuse box. You need to take the fuse box apart to replace them. The one Youtube video I checked looked like it was kind of a messy job, but it could have been the how the video was done.

Also, to remove power from a car, only remove the negative terminal, not the positive. When replacing batteries always disconnect the negative first, then the positive. For reconnecting connect the positive first, then the negative. This way you don't risk contacting structure with your tool on the positive terminal and creating an arc welder.

 

I wondered what they were. They don't pull out when I tried one day out of curiosity. Removing the PDB would certainly be a big deal. There are a lot of people messing up not getting connections right or even boosting reversed. I tell people to get booster pack and use the procedure from them. They have reverse polarity verification indicators on the majority which you must confirm before activating the high current boost switch. A boosting vehicle can be damaged by circumstances in the dead vehicle and/or operator. Don't do a cable boost ever unless its your vehicle and you are 100% certain what you're doing. Booster packs are more forgiving and generally work.

 

Hey all, thanks for the input. Here's an update.
This morning I ringed out all fuses with a multi-meter and none were blown. I then tried to jump it with my truck just in case the battery (that was showing 12V) had some kind of issue. After nothing happened there, I assumed it was the fusible link.

After consulting the interwebs, I found there were really no good videos about it. But there was enough where I felt I could do it.

Steps (this assumes you've already taken off the fuse block cover

1. Disconnect and remove the battery (which is how I got in to this mess)
2. Disconnect brake fluid reservoir sensor, move brake fluid reservoir, then the reservoir bracket (I think 10 or 12mm)
3. Remove the three bolt holding your fuse block (aka power distro box) in place
4. use a screw driver or maybe pliers to pinch the plastic clip that holds the fuse block to your driver's side engine bay wall
5. Unscrew the nut that holds the wire on to the terminal of of the fuse block (see the image in my first post).
6. Disconnect the white plug.I think I used a screwdriver to release it.
7. Then slide that down and away from your battery. There's a plastic piece that slides into the fuse block to which that wire is attached
8. Using a screw driver, carefully unclip the 4 or 5 clips that holds the bottom of your fuse block to the top part. While doing this you'll need to give a slight tug to pull the bottom portion away from the top. And yes, you'll probably break one or two (ask me how I know)
9. Remove the fuse bank (and maybe the ECU in there) that's closest to the driver's side wall of the engine bay. There are two clips on either side of this bank. Pull that bank towards you when you unclip them. In my photo above, the clips are in the holes below the 'P' and near the blue relay near the top of the photo. This whole thing slides up and kind of out of the way.
10. Now, carefully slide the portion that has the fusible link out of the fuse block. There were some little clips/tabs around the edge. It was not intuitive, but if you look close you can find them. Once that's slid out of the way, you should have it looking kind of like this:

You can see where the upper fuse bank is separate from the box. The bank with the fusable link is laying horizontal. Be careful, some of the wires are short/tight.

At this point, I found I could remove a rubber cover that was over the lugs where the fusible links are located. You can see it in the below picture, I've already removed the screws.

Before I removed those crews, I checked continuity between some things. I checked continuity between the power and the top screw and got 0 Ohms. So that was the direct connection to the battery. Then I rung out the others and got nothing.

So I undid the screws, and after slipping a crew driver between the link and the housing, I was able to pull out the link closest to the fuses.

I tried to get the other out, but I just couldn't. I figure there's some tabs or something that I just can't see/get to. But I did a close inspection and you can just make out all the fusible links and they all looked OK.

But the one I pulled...well see the image:

Blown out. I searched the web again, called the parts stores, and the dealerships. The closest one was over an hour drive away. Amazon had one I could get in a couple days. So I went that route since we have three cars and can wait.

Anyway, that's where I stand. I'll see about making a video of the reassembly when it comes time to do that. Hopefully this is the only issue. If anyone knows where other fusible links might be between here and the battery, here and the starter, and/or here and the alternator...please let me know.

 

Well done!

Can you get access to the screws and connectors holding the other fuse in? If so, just check continuity between each screw/connector and the big positive terminal/stud right next to it. If they all have continuity, then that fuse is good.

 

Hey Rich.
I can't find anything holding the second fuse in place. As I siad, I think it's being held in place by some tabs that I can't find.

I did try to test continuity and as near as I can tell it's OK. It looks like there's some wires that go to each fusible link, so I rung it out from wire to wire and there was no resistance. And like I said, I can see through the little windows and can see that none are blown. I even had my son with his 15 year old eyes look at it to confirm what my 47 year old eyes were seeing.

So, unless I've misses something. It's just the one fuse.
Here's the part number for the one that is fried: 82620-48090
Like I said, none of the parts store even had a reference to it.
The local dealers were out of stock, and I wasn't going to San Jaun Capistrano from San Diego to get it. Amazon to the rescue (love it or hate it). <$30 delivered to my door. I would have spent more for fuel to drive to get it.

 

I replaced 3 or 4 starters in my 2005 4runner since I owned it new in 2005. The one in there now came with a lifetime warranty?????

It's now been 5 years without a starter problem.

Could it be that over a 15-year period they kept selling defective (remanufactured) starters????

4runner has 210,000 miles and runs great.
I took the last starter (still working fine) out and put the one with a lifetime warranty in.

Get it?

The AM (lifetime starter) starter in there now is now 5 years old. The manufacturer's telephone number is on the box, and I called it a few years ago and they said f it fails they will send me another starter.

 

I replaced 3 or 4 starters in my 2005 4runner since I've owned it new in 2005. The one in there now came with a lifetime warranty?????

hopefully I didn't fry the starter. There wasn't any issue with the starter, it was the battery and alternator. And then the main fusible link when I when to install the alternator.

Fusible link comes in tomorrow. fingers crossed.

 

To me requiring a 2nd starter is uncommon. Unless 200k or more miles. Something is wrong if you did that many.

 

As I said, so far I don't believe it's the starter...not sure why everyone's focusing on that...

Anyway, the issue is solved!!!

New fusible link came in (old-top vs new-bottom)

Slipped it in place and screwed in place.

Screwed in place. NOTE: before you remove it the frist time, mark the the terminals. The two at the bottom look similar and you cold reverse them. I marked them I, II, and III. I knew where the top one went because it's bigger. And it was a week between when I got it disassembled to reassembly. So I had kind of forgotten which went where until I saw my marks.

That rubber piece slides up and protects agains shorts. I coulnd't remember how it went in. I seem to remember it staying in place better than how I put it back in. But it worked.

Then you have to slide in the ECU (if you removed it) and that whole fuse assembly. The ECU slides in from the top (on the left in the below photo...it may not be an ECU, but that's what I'm calling it), and the fuse assembly slides in from the bottom. It wasn't easy until it was. I had to move some wires out of the way. It was tough doing solo. Take your time. It will click in place once inserted up enough. You have to use one hand to push up from the bottom while your other hand holds the fuse box down.

Then slide this piece up in place. Con't ask me what it's for or why the engineers did it this way.

You can see it up in place now and you can see that the lug on the top of the fuse asembly is about parallel with the top of the box.

Then you slide this one in place. This one is the main power input (I think) and the ring terminal goes on to the lug. Then that cap closes on it.

At this point you can put in the 3 screws that hold the whole box in place.

And at this point you can install the battery and try starting the vehicle. I did it and it worked.

Also, in this image I circled where the four (4) tabs are located that hold the fuse assembly in place. You need a small screwdriver to get in there and poke at them while you're pushing down. Using 2 screwdrivers and pushing each side might make it easier. If you had 4 it might go quicker. But I got it done with 1.

The two tabs to remove the ECU (or the upper fuse bank if it's not the ECU) are to the right of the sticker with the "P" on it and to the left of the last fuse (before the relays).

Finally, all buttoned up

do this in revers to remove it.

REMEMBER...remove the battery first!!! ALWAYS disconnect the battery. I would have saved myself a week of a car being completely down if I had remembered that easy piece of advice.

 

Thanks for the great write up!

 

I see from the photo above they are different. As in this case he had to determine which was blown to order the correct one. Otherwise order both. I don't recall how he got access to test it but best to be cautious when the battery is connected.

 

Are both Fuse link blocks the same? One does look slightly shorter.

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you. No, those two fusible links are different.

I see from the photo above they are different. As in this case he had to determine which was blown to order the correct one. Otherwise order both. I don't recall how he got access to test it but best to be cautious when the battery is connected.

Yes, they are both different. I have no idea how to get the other one out. I actually tried just to make sure that I wasn't missing a blown link, but after several attempts it wouldn't budge. So I got out a flashlight and put on some reader glasses and did a close inspection. Then I had my son with young eyes and had him corroborate. I also tried to ring it out with a multimeter. I was able to ring out some of the contacts but not all of them.

 

Hey,
Anyone in Atlanta , Georgia having this same issue on a second generation Highlander please contact me asap. Thanks

 

feel free to post your questions here and I'll try to answer. Busy times, my friend, between work and family. So I'll try to get back to you. But at least give me some idea of what questions you have. Or PM me.

 

Great to hear! Do you understand why your battery is draining?

 

Just three weeks of non use. Charging system fine.

 

I ask because mine would easily hold up for three weeks. May want to check your battery capacity or look for a parasitic draw.

 

Very possible now that you mention. Three is a red light which flasher on the dash after shut off which warns intruders that there is a security system. Though there is not. Possible? How do I go about searching for this parasite draw? Thanks so much.

 

one BIG "NO-NO" after installing new alternator >DO NOT CONNECT THE "+" start the car and while car running connect the "+" why? -because this thing can have reverse polarity and may start in reverse you WILL BURN your Block Link Fuse part# (82620-0E030)

 

Hey thanks for that very good tip !

 

Great post, much needed information. Having same issue on 11 rx350 (for Same reason) Once the fusible link was replaced, did you have power at the hot post/stud in fuse box

 

2006 avalon: just had the alternator replaced, I've got 3 issues: radio is dead; i cannot perm or close the passenger window with driver controls; & it seems to rev higher at start up and sometimes randomly. I've checked the fuses i knew about including behind stereo and the blue box (steering & hvac display) the fuse for radio in engine compartment keeps blowing. What needs fixed? THANK YOU!

 

This is a Highlander section. Try posting in the correct forum. Whom ever replaced the alternator needs to check their work. A bad alternator will not prevent a vehicle from starting. fYI

 

Can anyone tell me how to remove the link block assembly? I was able to remove the fusible link, but not the other assembly parallel to it that looks similar. TIA