What kind of code reader did you use? The cheap ones only read engine codes. The expensive ones can read engine, ABS, SRS, transmission, etc. codes. If your lights are triggered by something else than the engine, a cheap code reader won't be able to read them.

 

Agree with katekebo. Suggest these three diagnostic steps:
1. Borrow (Advance Auto and some other parts stores will loan) another OBD2 reader and dbl-check for codes. If you get a code, I will bet it's a "P" code for oxy sensor in one of the banks. But, if still no codes from the reader then ...
2. Disconnect battery for at least 30-mins. While under hood, look for ANY rodent nests. If they made a home under the hood while it sat, then there's a chance the critters gnawed-away at some wire insulation. And just for grins, don't forget to also pull your cabin filter (behind glove box) to inspect for critter nest sitting on top of the filter. If no nests, then re-connect battery and see if the warnings cleared. Then come back and tells us if they still appear or have changed.
Good luck.

 

Thanks. I see my reply to Katekebo never posted: “It’s on the cheaper side ( gift..?) but on my Chrysler I get “torque requests denied “and ABS codes…. Malibu I think I did too. Doesn’t mean Toyota speaks to it I suppose…. I’m not too worried, quite a coincidence to shut it off “ A-ok” and start 3 weeks later with AWD warning……?? :-(. But would like to know! How do you know what code readers will read this and which won’t? I just paid a shop $150 to cycle the ABS valves while bleeding brakes ( different vehicle) because MC ran dry;,their scan tool is a few thousand $; lots of room in between!!”

that said, when I put insurance on will try borrowing a better scan tool. Battery east enough meantime . And since I just caught four mice in my other shop…. Ugh, who knows

 

Wheel bearing.
Wheel speed sensor not sending signal.
It’s ok thank me later….

 

Have you tested the battery? I was having the same issues, and would simply erase the codes with my cheap pocket scan. They would return after approx. 500-1000 miles. One morning the car wouldn't start, so I jumped it, and the dash is lit up with the same warnings. I realized my battery was about 4 years old, so replaced it. Haven't had a problem since.

 

First thought is a weak battery. I'd start by testing that. It's well known that a bad battery can cause "Christmas tree lights" syndrome on Toyotas.

 

Thanks. Was sure it must be battery; would make sense, first time it has ever sat for more than a week or two, and battery was down to 12.1V. I charged it up (also left battery disconnected overnight), and no dice. Lights are still there. Tried the "pump accelerator 3 times and turn engine back on" thing I've read elsewhere, does nothing either.

I'll have to ask Autozone if they will let me take a scanner home for an hour (or rent one). Hopefully to clear a code that says "low voltage detected"

 

A few thoughts pop into my head.

First: did you check for pending or historical codes? Some codes don't set until a triggering event. Evap codes come to mind as the fuel tank needs to be within a certain range for them to light up.

Second: there may have been some glitch that just needs more info to clear itself. Perhaps it saw something it didn't like such as mismatched wheel speeds and you need to drive a certain speed/distance combination for the computer to have sufficient information to restore traction related functions. Completion of a "drive cycle" may be required for the fault to officially throw a code.

Third: If it's been sitting you should definitely check for rodent damage. This could easily be a chewed wire. Any nests under the engine cover? How does all of the visible wiring look?

Fourth (last):It's always possible that you could reset the computer (disconnect battery etc...) and the problem will not come back. The problem I have with that is you may be erasing whatever data was logged when the fault initially occurred.

I don't know if any of this is useful but I nothing I suggested above would cost you anything to investigate on your own.

 

Thanks.
I got a better scan tool tonight, and there were several “low voltage” / “startability” codes, which easily erased. The ABS code was C1405 (Open/Short on Front Speed Sensor RH”) which would NOT clear. But almost certainly has to do with this battery (or electrical) issue…. Not sure why the scan tool wouldn’t reset; it SAID it successfully did, but there it was yet (1 current 1 history, every time). Not going to worry about that.

Worth noting, and wondering if anyone else can relate; I have had NOTHING but problems with batteries with this vehicle since buying it new in 2014! In that 9 year time period, I have had 2 batteries replaced in the <2yr warranty period, and the other two in <3. This one was replaced last December! (And 3 weeks (checked) sitting was enough to drain it to <12?)
All Toyota batteries, AND, to honor the warranty, they actually test the batteries to prove they have failed, so not “just” a high-drain issue, like these new ‘start/stop’ horror stories. Toyota dealer tested the electrical system last December, as even they agree this is nuts… and “find nothing wrong with it”. (And this 3week+ sitting idle is a first; it has always been my daily driver. My daughter just left for college, so trying to save some money on insurance for a month or so before AWD season here in Minnesota .
Thanks!

 

You mentioned a history of battery problems over the years. Have you ever had it checked for parasitic current that drains your battery when it sits idle for extended periods? Parasitic current can be caused by some electronic module that is not "going to sleep" after you turn the car off, a shorted wire somewhere or some aftermarket electrical device or mod installed incorrectly that puts a small slow drain on the battery. Parasitic current drains can be difficult to locate and correct and sometimes it is easier to just hook up a battery tender to keep the battery topped up when you are not using the car for extended periods.

 

Thanks, I actually just learned how to do that test today on YouTube after my Chrysler van’s battery was stone-cold dead (4V!) this morning for no reason (9month old battery!). So, I checked all three cars I have in the garage, the van, 12 Camry, and my 14 Highlander at issue. The 09 van’s parasitic current is only 0.002A! And that thing has more toys than Toyota dreamt of in 2014….. So that battery is going back to Costco. The 2012 Camry is about 0.3A, and the Highlander starts at 0.9 and then almost immediately drops and steadies out around 0.4A +/-. Both the Camry and the Highlander have the same after-market remote start installed, but nothing else. 0.4A Seems high, and likely explains my “low voltage” codes this weekend on the Highlander after sitting 3 weeks. But, wouldn’t explain batteries that FAIL Toyota tests twice over the years (where they keep your vehicle for a while, not just a “clamp on a tool” to quick-test like Autozone or O’Reilly’s.

 

I don't know if this problem has been solved or not but I remember reading a forum page similar to this a while ago. The first step I would take would be to disconnect the car battery and reconnect it. See if the codes clear and drive it around. But If I remember correctly I believe it could just be a speed sensor. I'm not sure if you have already tried that or not. That would be my personal recommendation. I don't know if that is 100% the problem but you could try and find out. Also, I would get the battery tested. If it was sitting for a while It could maybe need a recharge or something. Computers in cars go crazy all the time. I think someone mentioned this previously but I'm like 99% percent sure that an Auto Parts store scanner could pick up if an ABS speed sensor was bad. I don't know if you're close to one but if you don't have a scanner I would recommend trying that as well.

Also, you mentioned you had a battery problem as someone also mentioned above checking for parasitic draws would be something worth noting if it's not that. I would try to get an AGM battery. They last twice as long as lead-acid batteries. I don't know which type of battery is currently in your car but an AGM battery could potentially help. Walmart sells a 4-year warranty AGM battery for most cars. I believe they are made by Johnson Control I could be wrong but I know their batteries are strong. Not saying that's the guaranteed issue though but I hope this information can help you to some extent.

 

Hi DONSRK, yes, partial answer is my battery was low; scan tool showed several low voltage codes (which cleared), and an ABS sensor code (which did not, but I’m sure will with time). Was simply sitting for too long (at 3 weeks; shouldn’t be an issue in my mind, but). I checked the parasitic amp draw, and correction to my last post; doing it correctly per another TN post, and waiting half an hour after connecting the leads, my draw dropped pretty quickly from 0.4 to 0.3A. Same as my Camry.
NOW, why my Highlander goes through Toyota batteries every 2-3 years since it was new? Has to be something on the “just barely too high or too low ” side, that is killing them. Toyota tests them, and at least two HAVE been “bad batteries” and they replaced free. But lighting rarely strikes twice (and two other batteries were only on year 3). I guess I’ll live with it vs spending a bunch of money to have them try and figure it out (they tested and said nothing is wrong and gave me yet another new battery last December).
Hmmm. I hate electronis issues. Invisible gremlins…..

 

Glad I could help to some extent. For the draw from your battery, you would have to get an expert opinion on that. I don't know what could be causing it to be honest. However, for your ABS code. If that didn't clear after a while it could genuinely be a sensor issue. Also, I don't know if this would affect anything but finding a trustworthy mechanic and experienced mechanic would be another good idea too. I noticed you mentioned it's been dealer-serviced. Some dealers are sketchy not saying yours is but if you find something fishy going on there I would suggest maybe finding another dealer or someone who is trustworthy about cars and is knowledgeable about them.

As for your battery problem, if you're getting free batteries from Toyota under warranty. I would personally also claim it as much as possible. However, if they do go out of warranty one day and you do have to buy a new battery. Try to stick with an AGM battery from Walmart or BatteriesPlus. They are double the power and the technology behind them makes them last twice as long. Compare the battery specs from your OEM one to the batteries plus one. I don't know if you live near one or not but I attached a link to a Walmart AGM battery as well. They are solid as well. I'm curious to know the CCA difference. The batteries plus battery is kinda of overkill I don't think you need that much power but sometimes it comes on sale right now it's not. (The link I attached is assuming it's referring to your 14 Highlander Limited)

X2Power Premium AGM 840CCA BCI Group 24F Car and Truck Battery - SLI24FAGMDP at Batteries Plus
EverStart Platinum AGM Automotive Battery, Group Size 24F 12 Volt, 710 CCA - Walmart.com

Car's computers are funky all the time. If one electronic receives low voltage it can trigger so many codes. I hope you can figure it out soon best of luck.

 

Both of mine are Compustar. When I bought the cars, the Toyota salesman actually dissuaded us from buying the TOYOTA built in remote start, as the range was so low people were complaining. So the Compustar was installed at the dealership, but annoyingly, the car shuts off as soon as you open the door. Otherwise has worked well, and nice in the Minnesota winters.

 

FYI: The Toyota remote start also shuts off the car with the door handle.

 

Hi Bsrosell, Just wanted to know if you’re able to fix the pictured issue or not cause haven’t find any solution for my one too! I also have the exact same problem with my one and If you have than please do let me know. Thanks/Mo

 

He's ignoring the valid code of wheel speed sensor and also ignoring the high current draw introduced by his aftermarket (and poorly engineered) remote start systems. Fix the wheel speed sensor, my man. It ain't going away by itself. If you insist on keeping the remote start systems, realize: YOU are why your batteries don't last.