Oh, I'll post part #'s for what I got and if they are correct.
Mine is an '03 US made (1 on the VIN). Not 2 or J.

 

Oh, I'll post part #'s for what I got and if they are correct.
Mine is an '03 US made (1 on the VIN). Not 2 or J.

That’d be appreciated. I found a leak in my solenoid and a new o-ring didn’t solve my lean fuel issue. And I noticed you mentioned a gasket for the screen bolt which I wasn’t aware of so maybe that is the culprit.

 

There are not electronics involved just a coil actuating a valve so no polarity.
Just do a momentary test off/on and it won't over heat the coil.

 

Thanks cj1.
From what I saw online, some suggest not using 12V off the battery, but 9V because it's what the computer gives out.
So, I had some stuff in my electronics tool box and soldered this all together to use a 9V battery. We'll see how it works. Cost $0.

 

Here is the diagram and part numbers:
Solenoid O-ring G1917-32010
Oil screen 15678-21010
Plug gasket 90430-14009

 

And, to be on the safe side in case 9V isn't enough juice to activate the solenoid piston, I went ahead and made another jumper to use with the 12V car battery. Larger clips for the battery and the much smaller clips for the solenoid.

 

Cool. Let us know how it goes. When I cleaned mine without actuating the valve it was really clean. Even my filter was clean too. Guess helps to always use good oil and oil filters.


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Hey gang,
Been awhile on this, but I wanted to post findings.
1st, 9v is not enough to fully cycle the solenoid for cleaning & checking travel. 12v was better with my other clip set up on the battery. Cleaned it from there, but still some cycling hesitation, so I just bought an OEM Toyota from a dealer down the road. Don't but a cheapie after for $35. Go with the $116 OEM from a dealer and not ebay or Amazon. Just repackaged China junk no matter what they say. OEM comes with an O-ring and put some grease or SiliGlide on the O-ring and will go in smooth.
Screen was was filthy with full of clogs and broken plastic hampering the oil flow. OEM part on that too, with a new bolt gasket. I can list the parts if you want them. Oil screen plastics broke apart on removal, but got all the fragile tabs out. Be observative.
Solenoid was fine taking out and installing, but it was the screen bolt and screen was a pain for both taking out and installing without pulling the alternator. I toughed it out after about 2 hours to get it all even without the alt removed.
All in all, went good. No oil leaks after. I can tell the difference big time.
Worth the effort. 2003 1.8L 1ZZ-FE #1VIN North America built.

 

Almost forgot....don't worry if the new oil screen tab dislodges from the bolts center hole on assembly. Especially if you don't remove the alternator. It doesn't snap in very tight. It bottoms out in the engines recess, and as you thread in the bolt, you will feel resistance as the bolt reaches the tab and indexes in the bolts center hole. It's not going to float around or get sucked into the engine. A mirror and a light in the hole proved that.
Drove it today and all is smooth.