I found this for the 1MZ-FE (V6..?) , not sure if the 2003 i4 is the same:

[ame]https://youtu.be/M6zU6jh8pNc?t=242[/ame]

The vid link starts out right where he pulls the old one out and puts in the new one.

 

Regarding the P0355, the crankshaft sensor connector/wiring is close to water pump/serp belt area.

 

The crankshaft position sensor could of gotten damaged when you replaced the water pump. Thats a fairly common problem from what I see.

 

Thirded, check the harness for continuity.

Got a story about this. I used to have a Northstar-powered Deville DTS (2001). The original, made-in-Mexico crankshaft position sensors were a known weak point, commonly going out between 50k and 100k. The age of these cars when they went out...by that time, ACDelco had switched suppliers and the updated parts were made in Japan, basically bulletproofed. You could tell because the plastic housings were a slightly different color.

I had the weirdest failure ever when one of mine failed - very much like yours, with a few harrowing differences. It did NOT throw a CKP failure code, instead I got P0300 (with no physical misfire feeling) and a flashing CEL (and sometimes hard starting). Since mine was a 2001 and GM didn't fix the head bolt problem (exactly the same as your engine, see my Northstar Performance link in your erstwhile thread) until 2003 or so, I was ripping my hair out trying to figure out if I had a BHG.

Eventually decided to try replacing the CKPs. Those engines use a differential method of crankshaft position determination, so there's two CKPs mounted next to each other and they read the difference in the signal wheel. No change, except no more hard starting. Turns out due to the differential determination you needed to run a "variance relearn" procedure using a Tech2 scanner whenever you replaced the CKPs...$75 later at the local shop that had a Tech2, and the car was back to silky smooth.

For some reason, the Cadillac forums guys didn't believe me (I was, as usual, posting it up there for future benefit), claiming that an '01 didn't need a variance relearn procedure. Facts were in front of your face, guys, you can take a horse to water...

 

Before getting too crazy w/ the repair,

I'd pull the pass. (RH) fender apron, bottom cover, locate the sensor (right side, about mid-way / parallel with harmonic balancer), trace the wiring up to the connector, disconnect: and spray both sides of the connector w/ electrical contact cleaner (or non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a pinch) to rule out that coolant from all that leakage is causing a electrical contact short, first.

Edit: do this for -all- connectors in that area, any alternator, ground, etc., to make sure they're all cleaned up, dry, and conducting power or signal as expected.

 

Dang, there was some great advice that came in there, at the last minute.

You guys were right again; the Crankshaft Position Sensor location is super close to the alternator/water pump work I had just done.

I SNAPPED THE Crankshaft Position Sensor WIRE IN TWO, basically.

I guess after the repair, when I attempted the engine start, the alternator bell drive rotor thingy caught hold of, wound and then snapped the Crankshaft Position Sensor cable.

There are two wires inside the wire shielding that require re-connection.

Using a knife I cut back the plastic electrical insulation for a short length, then twisted the four ends together, again forming two wires, as before.

There is just one problem; online photos showing what I think is the proper wire positioning show a wire orientation that is different from mine.

The wire associated with the Engine Crankshaft Position Sensort does indeed come up and connect with one o the connectors on the alternator wire harness, right..?

I'm including a photo of how I did it --looks super ugly but do I have the connection..? >_<

 

It routes on the other side of the belt.

 

A-ha..!

yes, I had this stiff clip thing left-over after my repairs, and I kinda wondered what it was for --now I know.

I did a screen cap of the YouTube of a guy doing a related repair, and I think I see what you're talking about:

 

Since I snapped the wire and this thing costs $100, will simple silver-soldering re-connect the wires..?

Simply twisting them together white-trash style did not.

Immediately inside the plastic outside wire enclosure there was a mess of shielding wires for important-looking red and white wires deeper inside:

Maybe I'm screwed, even if I solder the wires together..?

:/

 

Here's another conundrum:

The 2003 inline 4 has TWO different engine volumes, meaning that some cheap sensors will fit only SOME of the inline-4's:

I have no idea which engine volume I have, either the 2362 cc or the 2357 cc.

I thought this was just my own stupidity but a phone-call revealed that even the DEALERSHIP didn't know..!

I find that utterly bizarre.

My VIN is:

4T1BE32K43U136571

Does anyone know some way I can find out which engine volume I have..?

The reason is cuz a super cheap sensor is available for just ONE of those two inline-4 engine volumes, but not the other.

(not just the wire & connector, but the whole shebang, along with the sensor)

 

As far as displacement, finding out through VIN, probably not. If the dealership couldn't tell you, I don't think a VIN site could provide that info.

re: repair - I tried repairing a broken crank sensor wire several years ago, didn't go well.

You could try placing some heat-shrink tubing on each of the wires, tinning the wires together, then pulling down the heat-shrink tubing over the tinned repair -> and sealing, along w/ 'securing' the shield back together with clear packing tape or electrical tape, but:

that shielding sheath is there for a reason, namely to make sure the ECU can see the (low voltage) reluctor pulse, when the sensor detects TDC. If that shield sheath is not intact, it's gonna cause problems.

Best to install a new sensor w/ intact wire, and shielding cable.

I know that's not what you want to hear, but for hall-effect sensors (Crank and Cam), it's better to have a factory perfect wire pair / sheath / connector, in my experience.

But if you need the vehicle, by all means go for it trying the repair - it may work and hold until you get a new part to install.