I ran into this once on a celica with a way shoddy engine replacement.

There is a nutsert welded into the frame. If you tighten the bolt down wrong and strip it it will break the weld sometimes.

I got a new bolt, nut, and washer.

I then used a 2" hole saw and cut an access hole in the body (not really the frame) and installed the bolt and nut. It held up great. I never sealed the hole but you can if you want.

Hope this helps.

 

That fix sounds great. You're right, there's no "frame" so to speak. I do have 4 question.

1-What Type/Quality of Bolt and nut did you get, and where? Thread, size, material, grade 8?

2-How do I determine where to cut the hole so I don't compromise the strength of the structure? Measurements if you have them.

3-Is it very difficult to cut the hole? Probably need a 90 degree angle drill to get in the space.

4-Did you weld in the Nutsert or just torque it on? That would explain why I would need to leave the access hole open to remove that bolt if needed.

Thanks for your fix method and if you would kindly answer my questions.

 

1. It was a customer car at my dealer. I didn't know at the time it was broken just that a bolt as missing. I used a new Toyota engine mount bolt. And a regular nut from our hardware bin. I would recommend a real burley nut like from the strut tower and a lock washer.

2. To determine where to cut I just guessed where the nutsert would be located and drilled. I could have gotten closer but I was close enough to reach my fingers and a wrench to hold the nut in.

3. Very easy with a straight 2" hole saw bit attached to an electric drill. It cut right through.

4. For you to have enough room to weld a nutsert you would need a very large hole. I just held the nut with a wrench and impact gun tighten the bolt. I use my impact gun any time I do belt tensioner and no issues once the bolt is started. I do this on my car too. Maybe torque it to spec if you want.

It probably wouldnt be a bad idea to try and find a 2" rubber plug so it is sealed.

 

Thanks for that info. I just went to look in the engine bay. I think I forgot a big point. Doesn't the engine need to come out to access the area to drill the hole.

If I do get to that point. I suppose I can get the engine mounting bold and measure that to get an idea how far down to drill the hole. If there was no bolt i could stick a rod down the hole to see where the nut would be.

Great idea on the 2" plug.

But again, doesn't the engine need to come out?

Thanks

 

No drill on the inside of the wheel well near the strut. There is a large hollow area three and all 3 nutserts. Do not drill in the engine bay.

Buy the Factory engine mount bolt, a good nut like from the shock tower if it's the correct thread, remove wheel, find the right area. Drill, then knock out the old nutsert. Install new bolt and nut. Tighten with wrench in hole and ratchet or impact up top. Plug hole, reinstall wheel, forget about problem.

 

OOOH I See!

OK now I feel much more capable of doing this. I didn't even think about accessing the nut from there.

The original nut and bolt are still "rattling" in the hole. I'll remove them and see what they look like. Maybe they're serviceable but probably best to use new stuff.

Thanks again.

 

Doubtful it is serviceable.

And hope it works out. Like I said there is a large hollow area under that bolt hole. You may have to make more than one hole.

Do not be alarmed. If anything keep the metal and have it rewelded back onto the car.

 

Did you ever get around to doing this repair?

 

No I haven't yet. It's been this way for about 2 years so a bit longer won't matter to me. I have 3 other cars with more pressing repairs; Blown Head Gasket and Water pump/AC leaks or compressor and leaking outer cv boot.
My cars are conspiring against me.

Honestly it would be at least 1 or 2 months if I get to this but I appreciate your info. I was just hoping there was a repair that I could do since dealer didn't want to touch it.

I will post a msg when I do get to it so I can close the loop on this one.

Thanks

 

Cool. Hope it works out.

 

Hey everyone I discovered that I have this same issue on my xrs too I was wondering if something like this tool could be a possible fix instead of cutting into the car? What do you guys think? Thank you!

STARTOGOO 14" Rivet Nut Tool, Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit with 6pcs Metric/SAE Interchangeable Mandrel(1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, M6, M8, M10,) Rivet Installation Tool with Carry Case 21 Pieces Rivet Nuts : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

STARTOGOO 14" Rivet Nut Tool, Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit with 6pcs Metric/SAE Interchangeable Mandrel(1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, M6, M8, M10,) Rivet Installation Tool with Carry Case 21 Pieces Rivet Nuts : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.ca

 

As long as the welded nut did break away, you can try to tap the threads.

A nursert could work. Might have to weld it to ensure it has additional strength.

 

I tried that and now it's even more detached than before :/ it seems like something is stuck in-between the bolt and the "frame" it's like being pushed down 😭

 

The nut is welded before the side member is attached.

You'll have to drill into the fender apron to access it as it's in the crevis towards the shock tower from underneath.

The nutsert would be installed from the top. Will need to widen the hole a bit to compensate for the size of the nutsert. Measure the thread pitch of the original motor mount bolt to ensure you can reuse the bolt.

 

Ok but if I use the insert I can't leave the original nut in there?

 

You won't be able to. It's spot welded to the chassis IIRC. I've seen it tapped in the past and the nut didn't fall out. The nut itself has the threads.

 

The nut in question is the one closer to the front of the car if I use this kit I wanted to leave it in there and just fit the insert in the hole to avoid cutting the car.. but if that won't work and I have to cut it anyways I'll just reweld a new but in there no?

 

Look at the bolt head. I think it's a grade 8 bolt. I don't think you will run into rust issues since its in a sealed area.

Just make sure you ask the store. It looks like a zinc coating, but more opaque.

 

Ok you just bought a nut a a local hardware store? I still have the bolt it's the nut I'm worried about

 

The 8 represents the hardness of the bolt. New nut should be compatible for a grade 8 bolt hardness or it will shear.

 

Ok ok perfect thanks

 

I'll try to find something.. where did you buy yours??

 

I used to work on the assembly line.

 

Oh shittt ok ok damn lucky you haha

 

I have the same situation. I was replacing the tranny mount and when trying to tighten one of the bolts, I heard a snap and the bolt just spins freely now. I am going to try this repair.

 

I just finished dealing with the bolt issue on my tranny mount. I got a couple different sized bolts from other mounts at the pickupart. The hard part was making a hole to access the nut. After no luck with my hole saw, I drilled a bunch of small holes in a circle and used my Dremel with the metal grinder to connect the holes. I was able to tighten the last mount bolt and put eveything back together. Seems to have done the trick. Thanks, 75aces!

 

Glad it worked out. How were you able to hold the nut in place? Maybe good idea to make a door. Just in case.

 

To hold the bolt, I used a nut from the long bolt of a tranny mount at the pickupart. I covered the hole by screwing a piece of splashguard from one that was falling apart. I was pretty despondent about this issue because I had no idea what to do. I was actually considering taking my car to a welder, take everything apart, and have them weld that corner of the mount to the fender area. Either that or leave the mount with 3 bolts only and see how long it would hold out(doesn’t seem very safe). Thanks again for the idea, 75aces!