You might want to try charge the battery fully then get that charger off there and then try start diagnosing if you haven't already. Sounds like you have a short or faulty component... or possible rodent damage from sitting..



" I added starter fluid and it would run for a few seconds so I suspected a fuel related issue. When I checked the 15 amp EFI fuse it was blown. At first I was excited for a possible easy fix but after more cranking it still would not start and after some time the new fuse blew again. "


Since it sits so much,. it could be you have a seized fuel pump... and because of that its causing some kind of short and causing the fuse to blow. you could try going back to the 15 amp fuse, and disconnecting the pump and see if it blows when you turn the key / crank. Of course it wont start cause the pump won't be connected but Youd be eliminating the pump from the circuit.

Then from there see if the pump works at all etc etc. .


Looks like someone jumped the terminals or something in your pic....

 

You might want to try charge the battery fully then get that charger off there and then try start diagnosing if you haven't already. Sounds like you have a short or faulty component... or possible rodent damage from sitting..

Since it sits so much,. it could be you have a seized fuel pump... and because of that its causing some kind of short and causing the fuse to blow. you could try going back to the 15 amp fuse, and disconnecting the pump and see if it blows when you turn the key / crank. Of course it wont start cause the pump won't be connected but Youd be eliminating the pump from the circuit.

Then from there see if the pump works at all etc etc. .


Looks like someone jumped the terminals or something in your pic....
View attachment 423394

Thanks for your reply. I just checked the wiring diagram and I think the only two things that can pull much amperage would be the fuel pump or the heated oxygen sensor if I have one. It says FOR EX. CALIFORNIA on the diagram for the heated oxygen sensor. So I am not sure if only California models have that or they don't have it. It depends on what EX. means. Does it mean EXcept California?

As for the mystery jumper it looks very factory and neat. Maybe some sort of inline resistor or fusible link? I can't find it in the manual.

 

usually I would think EX would be excluding.


Check the pump first. Im guessing something is up with that. The conditions seem to match / make sense in your situation.


Sidenote, if your car sits a lot you may want to consider disconnecting the battery / throwing it on a battery maintainer?

 

usually I would think EX would be excluding.
Check the pump first. Im guessing something is up with that. The conditions seem to match / make sense in your situation.
Sidenote, if your car sits a lot you may want to consider disconnecting the battery / throwing it on a battery maintainer?

I will look for the heated oxygen sensor. I won't have time to work on it today though. But I went ahead and ordered suspected parts. It sat for a few years before I had it in old fuel so it is very suspect. I drove most of the old fuel out and filled it with ethanol free fuel before I parked it again but it could of been damaged already. Let me know if I forgot anything from the parts I ordered below.

Delphi FE0486 Electric Fuel Pump
Delphi FS0093 Fuel Pump Strainer
Spectra Premium LO135 Fuel Tank Lock Ring (Gasket)
WIX Fuel Filter 33502

 

Hi Jonathan75. Good to see you active again and wanting to finish what you started with your Celica.

First, regarding the jumper question - yes, what you have is a factory installed jumper on that relay connector. I know on 1990-1993 Celica All-Tracs, that same connector has a fuel pump relay on it. I also know that jumper is used frequently on 1990-1993 non-AllTrac Celicas. Not all 1990-1993 Celicas use that jumper though. Why some have it and others don't, I don't know. My 1993 Celica GT (5S-FE with automatic transmission) does not have a jumper in that connector. If yours has a manual transmission, that might be why yours has a jumper? I don't know. But I would leave it there if I were you.

If your 15A EFI fuse keeps blowing, I would lift that junction box (the one that has the 15A EFI fuse in it) off the stamped metal bracket holding it, and turn it upside down so you can see all the wiring at the bottom. Maybe a wire was rubbing against that stamped metal bracket and is sometimes making contact with it. Maybe a insulation on some wires as broken off. Maybe a mouse was having lunch. I would at least start there. I wouldn't use a 20A fuse (which is 33% more amperage that that 15A was handling) as I don't think the wiring was intended to handle a steady 20A current flow without getting pretty hot - and you don't want that. That 15A EFI fuse provides non-switched BATT power to the ECU and to the fuel pump only. It is possible the draw from the fuel pump is causing the issue - but it could also be a faulty wire somewhere as well.

 

It is good to talk to you again. I hope you have been well. I still don't have much time to work on it but I can't have it where it won't drive.

Thanks for the feedback on the jumper, it is good to know it is normal.

I will inspect the wires like you mentioned. I did have the fuse box dangling for a while when I replaced the radiator. I also ordered a 15 amp resettable fuse so I won't keep going through so many during testing. I tried not to crank on it too long with the 20 amp fuse in there but I will wait for the 15 amp to arrive to start testing again.

 

Oh, forgot one item - heater oxygen sensor. The 93 Celica 5S-FE does not utilize a heated oxygen sensor. The 93 Celica 5S-FE uses a single wire oxygen sensor to send the voltage signal back to the ECU. The oxygen sensor uses the exhaust manifold for grounding (no ground wire). So there is no value in checking that oxygen sensor heater - it doesn't have a heater.

 

Update from yesterday. I did some voltage tests using the diagnostic port and jumping the connectors FP and B+ which I assume means Fuel Pump and Battery Positive. I did get 13 volts to the fuel pump connector under the back seat when the connector is unplugged. (Battery charger was attached to battery) But after I plug in the connector to the fuel pump the voltage drops to 2.8mv. But if I cranked the vehicle I would get 8 volts when cranking. I then unplugged the connector to power the pump directly with a Power Probe suppling voltage to the fuel pump. The voltage would drop to 8 volts and after around 6 seconds would trip the internal breaker. During this test I listened with a stethoscope and could not hear any noise coming from the fuel pump. I don't know how much noise they should make but I would expect to hear something. From my understanding this is indicating that the fuel pump is probably bad. I also replaced the 15 amp EFI fuse with one that can reset. After the repair is completed I will switch back to a regular fuse because I feel it will be more reliable.

Does anyone know a good way to access the fuel filter in the engine compartment. It is harder to get to then I expected.

 

Sounds like your pump is indeed bad.


the only way to get to the filter is to just remove whatever is in the way to get to it. Its not the easiest thing to get to unfortunately, but it can be done with a little persistence and critical thinking. Use a line wrench on the connector if it uses the flare type fitting. You don't want to twist off or destroy the line.

 

Agreed. Sounds like you fuel pump's rotor is locked/frozen. That would account for the voltage drop and tripping the fuse/breaker. That can happen if the vehicle is stored.

The fuel filter is not easy to access, that is for sure. You need to remove what is above it, plus the left front wheel to get to the fuel line fitting going into the bottom of the fuel filter. A word of caution regarding that bottom fuel line fitting - it is most likely corroded tight to the fuel tube. Often, in an attempt to remove that hex fitting on the fuel line going into the fuel filter, the tube will twist and the result is a broken fuel line. That is a major problem with Toyota's using that particular type of fuel filter tube fitting. I would venture to say the chances of you twisting that fuel tube is greater than 50%. Just be aware of this. You may be better off leaving it alone.

 

I wonder if that is why it was so hard the start when I first got it? Perhaps I got lucky and the fuel pump finally freed up. At least this will help prevent being stranded somewhere after it is replaced.

Thank you for the fuel filter tips. Perhaps I will focus on the fuel pump first and get it running. I can always revisit the fuel filter at a later time and be prepared with a new fuel line if it is still available from Toyota. Hopefully the pre filter in the fuel tank takes care of most of the contaminants.

I forgot to get new crush washers for the fuel line going to the pump. I ordered a big set from Amazon which arrived yesterday. Hopefully the size I need is included. I think it maybe 12mm inside and 16mm outside which the kit includes.

 

Back in the old days, those TBI GM trucks would have the fuel pumps go bad. to get them working, you could tap the tank with a rubber mallet to get the pump to "unlock" and get the truck running for a while.... or if they were put on a tow truck, the vibrations etc.. would "unlock" the pump as well.

its very possible you had a seized pump that freed up and has now seized again due to lack of use.

You could try to tap the pump with a rubber mallet if you need to get the thing running / moved for the interim.

 

Back in the old days, those TBI GM trucks would have the fuel pumps go bad. to get them working, you could tap the tank with a rubber mallet to get the pump to "unlock" and get the truck running for a while.... or if they were put on a tow truck, the vibrations etc.. would "unlock" the pump as well.

its very possible you had a seized pump that freed up and has now seized again due to lack of use.

You could try to tap the pump with a rubber mallet if you need to get the thing running / moved for the interim.

Not a rush now because I was able to get the registration renewed this year without inspection. Where I live after 30 years you don't have to do safety inspection. But I will replace the pump ASAP and report back.

 

I apologize for the late update. I have been so busy with home repairs getting done and dealing with contractors. But I fixed the Celica a few weeks ago now. The new fuel pump did not fit so I had to modify the assembly a little bit. The lower screw hole bracket for the fuel gauge had to be cut off for the new fuel pump to squeeze in. It is still held on by the top screw and I don't think it is going anywhere. The pump will hold it in anyway. Also the pump strainer from Amazon was not correct even though it was said to be a match. The strainer needs to have an angle to the mount and not straight. I called Autozone and picked up local a strainer that would fit. I also asked about the Denso pump but they can't even order it. So the strainer you need for this is Spectra Premium Fuel Pump Strainer A17STR. Also based on the pictures on Amazon I recommend the Carter Fuel Pump Tank Seal Automotive Replacement (PTS2005) and not the Spectra Premium LO135 Fuel Tank Seal that I used. The Spectra has extra holes not needed and it looks like the Carter does not have these extra holes. It didn't seem to cause an issue since as soon as I tightened the bolts down on the top fuel started poring out though the fuel line not connected. It seems that the fuel vapors pressurize the system after it is sealed and fuel will start coming up right away after sealed. But after I installed the new pump the car started and I took it on a short drive with no issues. I also noticed that the fuel tank looked much cleaner inside then I had expected. Just some big sand debris or such.

Does anyone know what manufacture made the original pump based on the logo stamped on the top? Picture is attached.

 

Does anyone know what manufacture made the original pump based on the logo stamped on the top? Picture is attached.
View attachment 425418

Jonathan, seeing your updated post from today and looking back, I see we didn't answer your question from June 22. I'm attaching a picture of my spare assembly. This was removed from a tank that started weeping fuel due to being rusted through along the seam joining the upper and lower tank halves. Everything worked on it, and I know the fuel pump was never replaced. Mine has the same symbol yours does. That would make it an original Toyota fuel pump. I didn't get as good of a picture compared to you, but I didn't want to disassemble the pump from the bracket either.

 

Looks like you have all things (home & car) heading in the right direction. Good job!!!

 

Thanks for your help. Hopefully things will settle down so I can get started back on projects.

 

Good job.

Just a guess but the OE unit was probably a denso. The best you cam get for Toyotas, but more than likley it is a discontinued denso part even even through the aftermarket.

 

I have good news and bad news. The good news is I just started a class yesterday to learn Auto Body Restoration and the Celica will be my class project. The bad news is it won't start again and I can't get it to school. It is all the same symptoms as before so it appears the new fuel pump may have stopped working. I don't have time to dig into it yet either so I am not sure when I can work on it so I can get it to school.

 

I have good news and bad news. The good news is I just started a class yesterday to learn Auto Body Restoration and the Celica will be my class project. The bad news is it won't start again and I can't get it to school. It is all the same symptoms as before so it appears the new fuel pump may have stopped working. I don't have time to dig into it yet either so I am not sure when I can work on it so I can get it to school.

You sure do have an item of good news and an item of bad news there. Can't do much to help you if you don't have time to deal with it. What I can tell you is that, from the pictures of your June 22 post, it sure looks like your pump assembly, when it was in the tank, was sitting in a pool of gasoline up to the line that separates a healthy pump body (bottom) from a badly rusted pump body (top). To me, that tells me the fuel tank not only had fuel in it, but it was being allowed to vent, for a long period of time, so instead of fuel vapor in the empty space of the tank, you had atmospheric air (with water vapor and oxygen) in there instead. Not sure how/why that was, but the clearly separated markings on the pump are classic for that. Also, most all your electrical connections are deteriorated as well, with the screw connections rusted, and the copper wiring having the green color indicating copper corrosion. Just wondering if perhaps one of those internal electrical connections went bad on you.

I'm attaching a few pictures of my spare pump bracket & pump. It has a very corroded tank mounting plate at the top - one I likely would not want to use again, but on the inside, everything looks pretty clean and healthy. Wish yours looked the same.

 

Not sure you have a bad fuel pump, Jonathan. If you do, just for reference, your original fuel pump part number is 23221-16390. That original Toyota part number was superseded to 23221-16440. The newer superseded part number is still available from Toyota, but at a whopping wholesale price of $431.32 (which includes a 33.9% discount of $220.90, retail dealer price is $652.22). Those fuel pumps were exclusive to the 1990-1993 5th Gen Celicas only.

I have a feeling that if you had time to test, you will find your fuel pump is fine, but something else is wrong.

 

Thanks for finding the OEM part number and information. I tested the electrical connections at the time and it had good continuity. I took the bottom off the old pump just now but the impeller broke apart when I tried to pry it off. I tried to manually rotate it but it would hardly move and I don't think it is serviceable. I am going to wait for Delphi to send me a replacement. I know it is jumping the gun without proper diagnostics but I wanted to get the ball rolling. I will try to work in some time later to test for power at the pump again. But the car did start when I used starter fluid but would die without fuel so it appears on the surface that the new pump failed or not getting power.

 

It is sort of amazing how often new automotive parts fail quickly these days. Delphi used to be such a good quality company. You sure have the evidence of failure though. Do you think the modifications you needed to make to the bracket had any possible connection with the pump failure?

 

I don't believe the modifications to the assembly should affect the pump itself. It is a tight fit but I think the pressure should be dissipated around the outside of the pump body and not affect the internal workings. The new pump seemed heavy and well built.

 

"Since the Delphi FE0486 Electric Fuel Pump doesn’t work due to a manufacturer defect, it can be replaced.
I’ve created a replacement order for you at no charge. We'll ship it to the same address as soon as possible."

Replacement will ship soon. At least it will be lined up and ready if it is the issue. But everything is pointing to it so far.

 

Any updates on it ?

 

I had some time this morning to work on it. I am hoping to take it to my class tomorrow to start stripping the paint off the car. I supplied voltage directly to the pump and it didn't work. I removed and replaced the pump and it is working again. What is concerning is the amount of moisture in the tank. The new pump looks very old in just a month or so. Is there an additive I can add to the tank to remove the moisture? Also the fuel line that came with the kit started to break down so I replaced it with my own fuel line.

In other news against my better judgement I tried to torque to the factory spec the bolts that hold in the fuel pump assembly. The spec is 26 inch pounds but 20 inch pounds broke one of the bolts. I really should of just got it snug and walked away. But now I have a broken bolt and the whole assembly looks warped where the screws are tightening down. I didn't dare mess with it anymore and just left it as it is. Looking for some help with the screw part number. It is not leaking but I want to have it ready if I have to take it apart again. Is there any aftermarket complete assembly? I couldn't find one.

 

Did your torque wrench (which looks like it is properly set) perhaps "click" very early and you did not notice the click, so you kept going? There is no way that screw should have failed at only 20 in-lbs total torque.

How long has the fuel been in that tank? I don't understand how a brand new fuel pump could come out looking like that unless there is a lot of water in that tank, but then again, that corrosion needs oxygen too to get like that, so where did all that oxygen come from? It will be interesting if the place you bought the fuel pump from will take it back looking like that.

But the even greater issue now is in regards to that broken bolt. Your only hope there is that the part broken off in the tank is long enough to stick out a bit beyond the spot-welded nut on the inside to allow you to grab it with a vise-grip (or something similar) to turn it out. You sure do not want to be drilling that broken piece out, not with the tank in the car and with fuel in it. If the broken screw cannot be grabbed on the inside of the tank to get out, the only way I can think of to safely resolve that problem is to remove the tank from the car, dump all that fuel out (would highly recommend it anyway, given it has to have water in it) and let it dry out so there is no water or any fuel left in it. Only after the inside of the tank is completely dried out and well ventilated can you consider drilling it and getting an extractor on it to turn it out. Maybe others have better solution ideas than me, but you do not want to cause sparks around an open fuel tank, especially in that location.

That screw part number is 90159-50219. When you look it up, you will see it was superseded by part number 90159-A0057. I would think a Toyota dealer may have that in stock.

 

I bench tested the torque wrench today. Basically the slightest pressure causes a very subtle click right away so I didn't notice it. 26 inch pounds must be just like hand tight. I kept turning expecting a big click. I should of used my gunsmithing torque screwdriver (picture attached) that has a very notable indication and not just a slight give and keeps letting you give it the beans. From now on anytime I get something that is in inch pounds I will just get it snug by hand. What concerns me is that now the top of the assembly is warped under ever screw. So even if I remove the tank and fix the broken bolt I will have to get it extra tight due to the warpage. I really need to find a replacement pump assembly.

I tried to run most of the fuel out after it sat for two years prior to my purchase of the car. I then filled it with ethanol free fuel. But it sits a lot outside and not driven much since I owned it so the moisture has built up. I can use the lift at school to remove the tank but I need to get replacement parts lined up.

Thank you for the bolt part number. The superseded part number does not look correct based on image search. Because it should be a bolt with a flat end and not a spiral screw tip.

I am taking the Celica to school today to work on it. I will take some pictures in the shop. Thanks again for your help.

The fuel spilled a little from the top of the tank when I was working on it. The spill under the car is in the shape of a man. I will put some kitty litter on it and rub it in.

I test drove the car today and everything is working good.

Did your torque wrench (which looks like it is properly set) perhaps "click" very early and you did not notice the click, so you kept going? There is no way that screw should have failed at only 20 in-lbs total torque.

How long has the fuel been in that tank? I don't understand how a brand new fuel pump could come out looking like that unless there is a lot of water in that tank, but then again, that corrosion needs oxygen too to get like that, so where did all that oxygen come from? It will be interesting if the place you bought the fuel pump from will take it back looking like that.

But the even greater issue now is in regards to that broken bolt. Your only hope there is that the part broken off in the tank is long enough to stick out a bit beyond the spot-welded nut on the inside to allow you to grab it with a vise-grip (or something similar) to turn it out. You sure do not want to be drilling that broken piece out, not with the tank in the car and with fuel in it. If the broken screw cannot be grabbed on the inside of the tank to get out, the only way I can think of to safely resolve that problem is to remove the tank from the car, dump all that fuel out (would highly recommend it anyway, given it has to have water in it) and let it dry out so there is no water or any fuel left in it. Only after the inside of the tank is completely dried out and well ventilated can you consider drilling it and getting an extractor on it to turn it out. Maybe others have better solution ideas than me, but you do not want to cause sparks around an open fuel tank, especially in that location.

That screw part number is 90159-50219. When you look it up, you will see it was superseded by part number 90159-A0057. I would think a Toyota dealer may have that in stock.

 

Thank you for the bolt part number. The superseded part number does not look correct based on image search. Because it should be a bolt with a flat end and not a spiral screw tip.

I purchased a bunch of fuel replated parts for a fuel tank replacement I am planning for my 1993 Celica convertible (my tank is the only item left on the car that wasn't restored, and it has a lot of surface rust and several of the metal tubes on it rusted through so I'm bypassing them with hoses right now, but I do feel my tank will eventually spring a leak - I just want to have a good tank here when it does or to change out before the original tank springs a leak). So I purchased a set of those bolts that hold the fuel pump bracket to the tank on top. I got a few remaining 90159-50219 that were still around in Toyota inventory, but the rest were 90159-A0057. Both sets look identical to me. If you want, I can take pictures of both for you (since I haven't used them yet).