Ok- my daughters 1995 Camry 2.2l is acting weird. Sometimes it just starts right up. Other times it just cranks and cranks no start. Sometimes just randomly stalls out at stop sign.

Changed timing belt~1500 miles ago. OBD1 no codes. When it just cranks and cranks , the tach shows no rpms.

Thought that meant crank position sensor. Pulled harmonic balancer to find no trace of a crank position sensor any where near the crank.

Changed distributor ~1000 miles ago. Code came up distributor at that time.

Ok folks, where do I go now?

 

Ok- my daughters 1995 Camry 2.2l is acting weird. Sometimes it just starts right up. Other times it just cranks and cranks no start. Sometimes just randomly stalls out at stop sign.

Changed timing belt~1500 miles ago. OBD1 no codes. When it just cranks and cranks , the tach shows no rpms.

Thought that meant crank position sensor. Pulled harmonic balancer to find no trace of a crank position sensor any where near the crank.

Changed distributor ~1000 miles ago. Code came up distributor at that time.

Ok folks, where do I go now?

No, I didn't drop out, I just had work to contend with.
I didn't remember what the code I pulled was that made me think distributor.
I know I just know enough to be dangerous.
Yes, I am getting spark.
Went and replaced igniter, same issue.
Test drive-car started, went ~1mile to stop light. Idle rpm dropped to 500 and was rough. tapped on gas got rpm up to 800, went ~another mile stalled out and wouldn't restart.
Walked 1/2 mile back to house, got starting fluid, went back to car and after a squirt of fluid into manifold, car started, ran rough, was not happy to get any gas in idle(stumbling), eventually car would rev. let rpms get back to ~ 800, put car in gear and crawled back home.
Okay- where to go from here?

 

Crank PS is part of the Distributor on the 95 2.2l did this happen before the distributor swap out??

 

The Camry had a crank no start condition~1000 miles ago. At that time I was able to pull a code that indicated distributor. Put in a rebuilt distributor and car ran fine until just recently.

 

What was the OBD-1 code you actually got (that indicated the distributor)?

Your tachometer should move a bit when cranking the engine. Does the tach move some when cranking the engine and it starts normally? And the tach doesn't move when cranking the engine but the engine does not start?

I'm kind of thinking your original distributor likely was fine, but your igniter may be going out. Your tachometer gets its input from the igniter. Depending upon how you answer the questions I asked will help determine that. The OBD-1 system is capable to detecting a signal problem originating with the igniter to indicate an igniter problem. Hence I'm curious of the 2-digit code you got that you said pointed to the distributor - just wondering if it was pointing to the igniter instead.

 

When it cranks no start do you check for spark at the plug wires?

 

Willy appears to have dropped out of his own thread.

 

Has it done this - since the last timing belt change?

Or did it run well for (nnn) miles and this is more recent?

 

I just went out and checked. last timing belt replacement was 9500 miles ago (11/22).
I was so proud of myself that the Camry ran better than ever after the belt change until ~1000 miles ago.
Replaced distributor and car ran just fine until just recently.

 

Ok, this makes more sense now. ( Post #1 had me thinking TB was changed at 1,500 miles ago. )

Weak spark can cause low / "dead" idle and acceleration, especially a missing cylinder - typically caused by: bad spark plug -> bad plug wire -> worn rotor -> worn distributor cap, damaged/bad Distributor, generally in that order. ... All considered "tune-up parts" (up to the Distributor assembly) / replace if at all suspect.

A vacuum leak can cause low idle / hesitation, especially if it's on the MAP sensor vac line.
A stuck Idle Air Control (IAC) valve can cause what you describe.
Low fuel pressure can (will) cause what you describe.
Poor fuel quality (bad fuel) can cause what you describe.
--
Fuel system has (2) parts: the "pump" side (at the tank), and the "return" side (engine compartment / Fuel Pressure Regulator, or FPR). * Don't forget to inspect the vacuum line to the FPR, when checking vacuum lines.

--
Given that Starting fluid improved the no-start / got you running to get home: I would "suspect" fuel delivery (or Air delivery / IAC), over spark: but would "go thru" and verify plugs are gapped properly, don't smell like fuel, that all wires are intact and secure on both plugs and Distributor cap, and Distributor cap and rotor are good,

Give the IAC valve a good cleaning while running by spraying TB Cleaner into the IAC port, let bog, and repeat as needed 5-10 times,

Check vacuum hoses, particularly to the MAP Sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator,

Consider verifying fuel pressure by hooking up a fuel pressure Gauge to the fuel filter / fuel rail line, if no joy above.

Hope the above suggestions help you there.

 

Ok cleaned IAC with TC cleaner.
Checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner along vacuum hoses, no change in idle rpm.
Replaced plugs and wires
replaced fuel pump and screen
Car fired up in driveway, took it out in the neighborhood.After about a mile the car started to misfire and stumble. Didn't always respond to throttle. crawled back to house.
Now where do I go from here?

 

Need to determine if you are loosing spark or fuel,

but Strega's posts about ECM make sense above.

(ECM is usually 'last in line' for replacement, however it's a known issue (age) and failure point.)

One other check you may want to make, link below: see post #225 in thread to check the Condenser, and wiring, on the Distributor assembly:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/my-1995-solara-2-2-stalls-out-once-it-is-warmed-up.1757712/page-12

 

Your parts procurement source(s) may be suspect. Do you have any test equipment (DVOM, Power Probe, etc) that you’re using?
The ECM of a 1995 Camry is high on a probable cause list if you’ve ruled out all the other “tune up” items previously mentioned and tested. Leaky ECM capacitors will also give you the symptoms that you’re currently experiencing.

 

The large capacitor circled affects the IGF and IGT signals which are your “spark fire command” and “spark confirmation” signals. Either circuit signal being compromised will definitely affect the drivability of your car. The NE+ and NE- signals could also be compromised . Best procedure for checking this without an oscilloscope is to pull the ECM from under the glovebox and open the lid and perform a visual inspection. Any residue, blackening near any of the capacitors or trace destruction will be indicative of a bad ECM.
The ECM’s demise via leaking capacitors is often very slow, with symptoms worsening over a 6 to 12 month time period. ECM’s from reputable rebuilding manufacturers are available online for $200 to $300 or so, or from your local salvage yard (manufacturing part numbers must match exactly) for around $35.

 

I thi k he said he has spark. Id then get a noid light and put it on the injector connector to see if the injector is getting power when it misfires. You can at first try wiggling the harness while its on the injector to see if it changes the misfiring. You could have a frayed / bad wire. If you have both spark and injector pulse the injector could be bad. I had two bad injectors that seemed fine that would act like this when it heated up

 

You really do have one slippery problem! Maybe it's time to look at some parts you haven't considered yet, that might conceivably be related to the problem.

My Dad and I did an engine swap in his 1980 Dodge truck. But after hooking everything back up on the new engine, it was having a lot of the engine problems you describe. One start and it would work perfectly, the next one the engine ran like half the cylinders were dead. We took it to a mechanic - he was a really good one i think - and in less than a minute, while I watched him do it, he diagnosed a worn ignition switch. He started the engine and it ran perfectly; but he quickly discovered, if you just barely turned the key the smallest fraction of an inch, the engine ran badly. But turn the key back to where it was, the engine ran fine again. (The only thing I decided from that strange problem, is because the ignition switch controls voltage to and from almost everything in the car, any fault in the ignition switch must have effected everything. So replacing the ign switch completely eliminated the problem.)

Also you mention you changed the timing belt and all was well for a thousand miles. But did you change the timing belt tensioner pulley at the same time?

Installing a new timing belt, but with a worn belt tensioner, might have allowed the belt to jump time.

 

What was the code that you pulled? Getting any other codes now? Fed or CA engine? Have you done any testing for issue/s or just parts swapping?

1995 2.2L

 

Clarification to the above post . The voltage readings in the above post referred to the old TPS.

And a follow up question, What should be the ohm readings at the TPS between terminal C and D?

 

another voltage follow up question.
With key in run, I am having a problem back probing a voltage reading on terminal C. It wasn't much easier on terminal D , but I did get a reading of 5v with key in run.

 

Yes, I am still firing the parts cannon at my daughters 1995 Camry 2.2l.

Don’t do this. It makes troubleshooting incredibly difficult.

 

This is in response to my thread from earlier that seems to have been locked.
Again, I apologize for mentioning the parts cannon.

Only bought parts on recommendation of other posters from this forum.
I don't regret trying to resolve the problem.
My daughters 1995 Camry now has code 41 AFTER replacing TPS.
Car just surges from 1500-2000prm upon starting.
Does not respond to throttle input.

My question now is if there is an issue with the connector to the TPS, is it just a solder the wires of a new connector to resolve the issue?

That might have been the problem all along

 

If you are getting a code 41 - then Yes, that is how I would proceed, if it was here.

New connector / verify wiring, or (another) new TPS sensor if existing one on vehicle is at all suspect,

Dunno if you have read this TN thread, it may have some info that is helpful to you:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/95-1-6l-auto-code-41.1674814/page-2

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