On the 92-96 There is an AC Fuse on the right lower kick Panel Top Right corner of relay block

 

I don't know about the electronics of it, but the compressor will not kick on unless there is enough refrigerant pressure in the system to keep the low pressure switch from coming on. That keeps you from burning up your compressor. So if you had a slow leak that lost your refrigerant (and oil), that might be part of it. It can be tested for leaks by drawing a vacuum on the system and checking to see if it holds the vacuum.

 

If the compressor were low on freon though, I think the AC light would be flashing. I'm pretty sure anyways..

 

I have a 98 camry and just went through this situation. No indicator light, no compressor starting, etc. In my case it was low pressure in the system preventing it from turning on (condenser was leaking). For the record, the indicator light DID NOT blink due to the pressure being low, so low pressure is definitely a possibility.

You can test whether the pressure is low by manually jumping the pressure sensor with a paper clip. If you have a Haynes manual it describes which pins need to be connected (I could tell you but I don't have my manual with me). If the compressor turns on when you bypass the sensor, then the pressure is low and you likely have a leak.

 

I have a 98 camry and just went through this situation. No indicator light, no compressor starting, etc. In my case it was low pressure in the system preventing it from turning on (condenser was leaking). For the record, the indicator light DID NOT blink due to the pressure being low, so low pressure is definitely a possibility.

You can test whether the pressure is low by manually jumping the pressure sensor with a paper clip. If you have a Haynes manual it describes which pins need to be connected (I could tell you but I don't have my manual with me). If the compressor turns on when you bypass the sensor, then the pressure is low and you likely have a leak.

If you do get a chance to look at the book, would you? I would definitely appreciate it.

 

under the hood, open fuse and relay box on the right side of engine, there is a relay call 'MG/CL' change this relay with horn relay.

also check the heater(HTR) relay, it is a black and large relay.

 

Question (sorry..I know little about engines etc), If I did this : 'MG/CL' change this relay with horn relay - what should I expect to happen after 2 years of it not working, would it to start working again? Or do you think the AC button light would come on but most likely I would need a recharge?

****Update 06/12/11*** We swapped out the 'MG/CL' with the horn relay, and there has been no change. No light and no cold air.


You also mentioned "also check the heater(HTR) relay" - check it for what exactly?

Thanks for any clarification you can provide.

 

Finally!!! My Camry too

Finally!! Some one else with this issue and same model/yr as you. I have been googling and lurking for 2 years to see if anyone else had this problem. I always ended up reading issues with AC problems but with blinking lights. That wasn't my issue....just no light would come on, no cold air, fan would seem to work and just didn't hear anything kick on.

I finally registered at TN now so I can join this thread (consider me a newbie at forums too).

Having no AC is killing me!! Last year I decided to bring it into a Toyota dealer to have it "looked at"... $200 later and no solution. They did offer to continue to look at it for a couple more hours to "try to" figure it out...:headbang: I thought I would take a chance and hope it was just a minor issue...but I may have been silly with the first $200 but not silly enough to continue.

They did tell me that when they routed something directly it would work, but it was everything they bypassed that they would have to determine what it could be. (sorry I'm really not engine saavy for the right terms). I can call them back and get them to remind me what they wrote in their notes it that would help.

I will follow this thread to see if more solutions come up. For anyone that does post a solution can you keep in mind that I'm not engine/car saavy and post like you are writing one of those "For Dummies" manuals??

Thanks!
From Slowing Melting in the Heat.

 

 

I think its time to get a multimeter. Also tomorrow I think I am gonna run out and get a copy of Haynes.

 

@ultimateplayer: Sorry I didn't get back over the weekend. Definitely follow up with the other posts as well. Before diagnosing my specific problem, I did many of the things being mentioned including checking all the fuses and relays.

As for testing whether the pressure is low: The pressure switch is attached to the top of the accumulator/drier, which is attached in front of the condenser. I don't have a scanner to upload the images from the haynes manual, but I can describe what you need to do. (I would really suggest getting a haynes/chilton manual, though. It has saved my butt on numerous occasions.) You need to unclip the connector on top of the accumulator/drier. The connector has 4 pins in the shape of a cross. You need to jump the top and bottom pins (the two that are actually touching each other) with a paper clip. You SHOULD be able to start your car and turn on the AC at this point. This will bypass the pressure switch and the compressor will turn on. If the compressor still doesn't turn on, then you may have a problem with the compressor itself.

@98CamryDrv: I did get my leak fixed. I took it in to the garage and they filled it with freon and UV dye. A couple of days later it was empty again, so I took the car back in and they located the leak. My condenser was leaking and needed to be replaced. The dealer wanted $896 for parts and labor. I bought the parts online and did the labor myself for $110. Took it back to the dealer to have the system vacuum sealed and refilled. Total cost, including initial fill with UV dye and subsequent fill after I replaced the parts, $290. Of course you're problem could be something completely different. However, once you do identify the problem, I would seriously consider doing the work yourself.

 

here is the Dual ac pressure switch as swensonator said:

 

part of wiring diagram:

 

Thanks for the info Swensonator.

I did call back the garage that did the work last year and ask them to re-read the notes for me (I can't find the service bill)

They said that they determined that the compressor was working but not from the switch. They also determined that there was a leak on the condensor.

They said that if I were to bring it in again they would only concentrate on the wiring issue for the compressor and only once that was figured out (they had no idea how long that would take) would they re-charge with non-regulated refrigerant that might end up sealing the leak.

So it does sound like a similar issue that you had, but they are stuck on the wiring bit. I guess that could be a real possibility. Did your garage mention wiring to you? Would your early suggestion eliminate a wiring issue?

Does anyone have any suggestions to figure it out is there is indeed a wiring issue? (Without too many fancy gadgets)

Thanks

 

I didn't have any wiring issues associated with my problem. You could try jumping the pressure switch and see if it allows the compressor to turn on, but given the amount of wiring in the system it is unlikely that the problem resides in the pressure switch connection. You could get a Haynes manual and use the electrical system schematic to check each connection for continuity and just work your way through the system. It would probably take a while, but if you know anything about electrical systems and wiring, then it might be worth it.

As for the leak in the condenser. I would definitely recommend doing the work yourself. It took me 3 hours to do the work, and that includes having to deal with several rusted screws that I actually had to drill out and replace. Some of the screws/bolts are in awkward locations that seemingly require a 2nd or 3rd wrist joint to access, but everything is doable.

You would need to replace the condenser and the accumulator/drier. I got a Denso condenser on Amazon for a very reasonable price and a Denso drier through a parts dealer in Ohio (I think) off of ebay. I saved nearly $200 on the parts alone vs having the dealer order them.