Welcome to the forum! I'll move your post to the appropriate forum where you'll get more help.

 

I have now changed the spark plugs on cylinders 2, 4, & 6 and changed the fuel filter.
Still sputtering.
I have noticed that when the car is cold and I start it up, it seems to run great for 5 minutes, then when it gets warmed up, it starts to sputter.
Any ideas?

 

Your brake booster isn't pulling enough vacuum. Check all vacuum lines for connection, cracks, plugged, etc. This vacuum leak or blockage could explain the sputtering.

I will check for hoses that are leaking, but would the engine being cold make it better than the engine being warmed up? Seems like a leaky hose would leak all the time.

 

You're correct but some are connected to valves that open or close at idle and some aren't activated until the engine warms up or you activate them by stepping on the brake. The brake booster hose has a one way check valve and a diaphram. If it's leaking or the diaphram has a hole, then the pedal is hard to press.

 

You're correct but some are connected to valves that open or close at idle and some aren't activated until the engine warms up or you activate them by stepping on the brake. The brake booster hose has a one way check valve and a diaphram. If it's leaking or the diaphram has a hole, then the pedal is hard to press.

Okay. I'm definitely more of a beginner in the car fixing process, but if I can read up on how to check this diaphram then I will see if it is leaking.
I read another forum that suggested that it may be a bad Catalytic Converter. FYI: I had to get a new engine about 40,000 miles ago because the guy that owned if before me got the Engine Oil Sludge issue. It smoked a lot back then when I got it, but could it be creating the backpressure that could cause the vacuum to be inconsistant?
Thanks!

 

Can't figure what would cause misfires on one bank of cylinders, AND,
vac leak to power brake booster.
But... Strange coincidences do happen (Murphy is waiting for all of us) so they might not be related,
but that's not the way I'd bet.

Still.... would definitely closely check all the hoses leading to brake booster both with engine cold, and then later Saturday morning, when brake feel changes.

 

You said that a local shop said their was misfiring on even cylinders or Bank2. Can you tell me what ALL of the codes were? I think that some electrical sensor i.e. camshaft, or like in my case a bad oil control valve (OCV) could be the root cause of the misfiring. I would focus on what is causing that and worry about the brakes issues second.

 

Codes...

I took the 2000 Avalon into a local mechanic and he ran some tests on it and is saying that the problem is a Code:1354. He says that its a problem with the Variable Valve timing controller/module. He also told me I'd be better off to take it to a dealer and that it would be expensive. Any ideas?
Codes: PO300,PO302,PO304,PO306, and P1354

 

Do a search on Google for that last code P1354 ((Toyota code P1354 ))
Some guys on Lexus forum found that the part is an oil control valve - you have 2 - they are as cheap as $68 each.
Personal labor about 1 hour to replace

//

 

You really don't have to go to the Lexus forum since we have a Toyotanation Member who started a thread on 1-09-10 with the exact same codes. Just look at questions and the posts. I just replaced the Oil Control Valve for Bank 2 the side nearest the radiator, and it cured my P1354 problem. I also posted the part number. Just be careful removing the electrical connector. I managed to break mine quite easily. After reading the things you have already done, I don't think you will have problem finding and removing the bank 2 ocv. You could check the bank 2 ocv filter, but I think you will not find it clogged. I would also suggest looking for another mechanic, since either he does not subscribed to ALL Data, or just does not like to work on this kind of problem.

Over

 

Thanks OpticNerve and Riick,
Last night I picked up my car from the shop and it was running aweful just like before, so I took it home and read these new posts. I let my car sit a little while in my garage then I started it up and while it was idleing well (at first) I unplugged the OCV electrical connection and then took the car for a test drive with it unplugged. It drove MUCH better and did not sputter and the brakes were working again. The only downside is that when I idle while parked, it still has a little vibration and a little clanking noise (maybe ~catalytic converter shield?)
I will try and find a new/cheaper OCV online and order it. If that is it, I'll be very happy. Thanks for the advice guys!

 

Ocv

So, I ordered a new OCV (oil control valve) from a Lexus dealer (same part # for Avalon) and installed it on my engine. I started the car up, and it ran perfectly for 20 minutes so then I was really happy and went to bed since it was late. I got up the next morning, and started the car and it was back to sputtering...maybe even a little worse than before. Any ideas? Could the new part have been bad? Is there a specific way I can test the OCV to see if it is good?

 

As you must know by now, VVT-i problems are difficult to resolve. To drive home that point, check out http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Repair-832/2009/4/Vvt-ECM-thats-problem.htm. Bear with the English since the guy is from Finland, but he is a Mechanic and he can't get to bhe bottom of his DTC 1349 problem. At this point, you may need to take her in (must give credit to your local mechanic) to a dealership that has the equipment and experience to get to the root cause of the misfiring.

 

Update:

I took my car to the dealership and they ran tests on it. They said the OCV is good, but the problem is either 1 of 2 things or 2 of 2 things. He said the VVT Actuator on that bank is probably bad. He said it would be $1,520.69 for parts and labor. I don't really want to pay this much...
Then he said, if that's not it, then it's the Computer. He said that will be either $1,886.19 or around $1,200 depending which part number the computer is. I REALLY REALLY don't want to pay $3300 to fix this older car, but what other options do I have. Are these parts very difficult to change? Does the Computer need completely reprogrammed if it is changed? Does the dealership have to do the programming? What else would need replaced if I changed the Accuator?
Any ideas guys?
Thanks!

 

I've looked and can't seem to find the "actuator" as a part on the WWW.
On my old BMW, the variable valve timing actuator is just that
.. a electric solenoid that pushes the cam so valves are controlled by one set of lobes (A) or another (B).

Seemingly, on the Toy, it's a piston that gets filled with oil, and accomplishes same thing??

In any event, there are enough of these cars around that paying $1500 for a new ECU is "So 1980's"
Every wreck in your local junkyard (ooops, automotive recycling center) has one; look around and there's bound to be a same year Avalon with the correct ECU intact, and probably for well under $100.
It should be just a plug-and-play exchange.

The dreaded "actuator" (ROTFLMAO) is a horse of a different feather, but I'm wondering, outloud, if it's not working because of crud build-up??

/

 

ECU replacement?

I've looked and can't seem to find the "actuator" as a part on the WWW.
On my old BMW, the variable valve timing actuator is just that
.. a electric solenoid that pushes the cam so valves are controlled by one set of lobes (A) or another (B).

Seemingly, on the Toy, it's a piston that gets filled with oil, and accomplishes same thing??

In any event, there are enough of these cars around that paying $1500 for a new ECU is "So 1980's"
Every wreck in your local junkyard (ooops, automotive recycling center) has one; look around and there's bound to be a same year Avalon with the correct ECU intact, and probably for well under $100.
It should be just a plug-and-play exchange.

The dreaded "actuator" (ROTFLMAO) is a horse of a different feather, but I'm wondering, outloud, if it's not working because of crud build-up??

/

I read online that replacing the ECU computer is more involved than just buying a used one and switching them out. I read that if I take one from another car and try installing it on mine, it will immobilize the car since it doesn't match up. Would/Can a dealer have to reprogram the "used" computer? I'd love to buy one from a junk yard and then just swap them, but I'm pretty sure that won't work with what I've read online. Does anyone know differently about this on the 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS???
Thanks.

 

Actuator?

Anyone have any idea of how involved replacing/cleaning the actuator involved the VVT might be? I'm not really even sure what the acuator does at this point. If it's just stuck and needs cleaned or something, I'd hope I could just do it, but if it needs replaced, I'm guessing that is pretty involved.
Anyone have any pictures of this work being done or steps on how to do it?
Thanks!

 

I know this will sound a tad crazy, but have you tried changing the battery?

Before I bought my 2000 Avalon XLS from my Uncle, he HAD mentioned it had a mis-fire issue, error codes saying so, transmission not engaging instantly... and the battery didn't last but a few days at a time...

He changed the battery before I bought it from him, and the car runs like a champ now. No mis-fire, nothing.

I don't know if it is the same case for you or not, but I would give it a shot... seems the Alternators in these cars are not enough for everything on them (on mine anyway).

 

I know this will sound a tad crazy, but have you tried changing the battery?

Before I bought my 2000 Avalon XLS from my Uncle, he HAD mentioned it had a mis-fire issue, error codes saying so, transmission not engaging instantly... and the battery didn't last but a few days at a time...

He changed the battery before I bought it from him, and the car runs like a champ now. No mis-fire, nothing.

I don't know if it is the same case for you or not, but I would give it a shot... seems the Alternators in these cars are not enough for everything on them (on mine anyway).

I haven't tried changing the battery, but I also haven't had any other problems with the battery. It hasn't died on me or anything. I sure wish that'd do the trick, but I'd be amazed if that was it. Maybe I can search for a way to test this out. Could I use a battery from another car? Would have to fit and match.

 

Was your 2000 Avalon fixed ? Did you attempt to work on VVT Actuator ?

 

Hello. I actually never figured my issue out, so I posted it on craigslist with the issues listed. I took a bit less than I wanted for it, but didn't have to deal with it anymore. Also, it was an interesting sale, because a Nigerian man emailed and said he wanted it. I thought it was a scam at first, but he met me and test drove and then took me to his mechanic then to the bank. Good enough for me.
I'd sure like to know more about if someone else had that issue.
One thought about it is that I did have the Small Block replaced by the dealership due to Engine Oil Sludge, and I read somewhere else that the VVT should have been changed as well, since the oil would affect it, too. If anyone else has that issue and then has engine oil sludge, if the car is within 8 years old, I think they still fix it for free, otherwise out of recall.

 

It turned out that I was working on wrong side of engine bank for about a month, last year, I replaced the OCV for bank 2 and it fixed the problem. At that time, the Fault codes were:
1/1 P1354 - VVT System Malfunction Bank 2
Pending codes:
4/4 P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
3/4 P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
2/4 P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
1/4 P0300 - Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire

This time the fault codes are as follows:
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P1349: VVT System Malfunction Bank 1

I thought same problem has re-occurred but later realized that I was messing with wrong side, i.e. Bank2, which has no issue at all. I even took out the VVT actuator from the wrong side and later put it back. During the installation of the actuator, I found out by using the air power torque wrench, it actually could move the VVT from the Camshaft. Bottom line for my engine Bank 2 is pretty clean. Now for the right bank, I decided to take out OCV and Oil Filter first. I tested OCV with external power supply and it works so I decided to put it back with the filter cleaned by using compressed air blowing on it. Surprisingly, my car is running fine now. It has been driven without fault code for 300 miles already.