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2000 camry 4 cyl intermittent electrical issue

7.4K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  CamryFL  
#1 ·
Hi everyone, first time posting here. I got a problem I need help with, my 2000 Camry 4cyl has an intermittent electrical problem. It started a long time ago with lights dimming when rolling down the windows at night, however about a month ago the problem started getting worse. The lights were dimming more and more and the battery light would come on as well. Eventually the battery light would come on throughout the day, without any noticeable side effects. I checked the battery level before and after running the car. The battery started at 12.5 and ended at above 13 or so when i shut it off. I did not check the car while running at the time. One morning the car would not start, the battery level was at 12.6, but none of the accessories were working. I tired jumping it with a good car anyways and it had no effect.The positive terminal was very old so I replaced it with a new one and the car started right up. It ran fine but the battery light would come on when any load was placed on the vehicle, and I noticed my phone had a difficult time charging.

Anyhow, the car eventually started stalling when just started up if I switched the headlights on. I checked the alternator at the same time, thinking it was undercharging, and it was actually over charging at 16.4. Since the car was running fine and I needed to get home from work that day, I took it home. On the way home the car began stalling first every 15 minutes at high revs, eventually leading to a stall every couple of minutes. When the car stalls it would not fire back up for a minute or two. The starter would not engage even a little bit. After a few minutes the car starts right up no problem, only to stall and repeat the same non start a few blocks down the road. Somehow the car started up one last time and I made it home a few miles away. Since then the car starts intermittently, usually after sitting for a long period of time, only to die completely a few moments later. When I try to start it up between these times the rpm gauge moves sporadically up to 6 thousand or so revs, without the starter engaging at all. I tried to put in a perfectly good battery out of my Avalon and the same exact thing happened, the car started for a brief second only to die and never start again with that battery. I replaced the ground strap from the negative battery post to transmission at no effect.

Tests ive done:
  1. battery positive to starter battery cable attachment (while off) no voltage drop
  2. negative to transmission ground (while off) no voltage drop
  3. alternator b+ to battery positive no voltage drop
  4. alternator charging normally at 14.3 when no load, 16.5 under load with battery light on
  5. battery at 12.5, tested with a replacement battery from working car without any different effect
  6. starter is grounded with very little/no resistance
  7. block grounded with very little/no resistance

In conclusion:
  • If the car had just stalled while running and the battery was undercharged than I would blame the alternator. But with a working battery in the car that I swapped in a bad alternator wouldn't stop the car from starting (am I right on that).
  • A bad starter would cause the car to not crank, but would not have anything to do with the car stalling while moving.
  • Ground cable from battery has been replaced and grounds seem good to best of my ability
  • No corrosion on battery, new terminals, no voltage drop and resistance across both cables
  • Ecm isnt part of the starting circuit (am i right on that?) so a bad one wouldn't cause the car to not start
So what could it be?? Any help is greatly apreciated. Sorry for the essay, just wanted to be very specific with the situation as the problem is getting pretty hard to diagnose. I might have missed a test or two I have done on the car, I have done lots at this point. I am also no expert so I could be completely wrong about something I did during the whole process. Thank you!!!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Try checking your 100/120 amp alternator fuse (engine compartment) and your GAUGE, IGN & ALT-S fuses inside the passenger compartment. NOTE: The alternator fuse is BOLTED into the fuse holder. Do not try to forcefully pry it out! If one or more of these fuses are blown, you will have to troubleshoot the root cause of that circuit drawing too much current. Aftermarket stereos, radios, CB's, alarm systems, etc are NOTORIOUS for being installed by hack installers and they take many shortcuts. Bad spicing is at the top of the list, as they mostly just hack into a 12VDC wire without regards to the circuit. I'd check here first. Also, recheck your dashboard BATT "charge" warning light. If it is not illuminating, pull the cluster and replace the "charge" warning lamp (C9 in diagram). Not sure on your exact circuit without a diagram for your 2000 Camry, but that lamp completes the field exciter circuit for the alternator and when you replace the bulb, you should notice the voltage at the batt terminals with engine on should go on up to 14 volts dc or so. This Charging schematic is for a 1994 Camry 5SFE, fyi.

332193


When the ignition switch is turned ON, current from the battery flows from terminal L of the generator through the voltage regulator to terminal E, causing the discharge warning light to light up.

Then when the engine is started, the voltage output increases as the generator rpm increases.
When the voltage output becomes greater than the battery voltage, current for recharging flows from terminal B. Simultaneously, voltage at terminal L increases and the potential difference between battery and terminal L disappears, causing the discharge warning light to go off.

When the voltage output exceeds the regulator adjustment voltage, the transistor inside the voltage regulator regulates the voltage so that the voltage from the generator remains constant.
 
#5 ·
I think you're better off measuring amperage from the alternator to the battery on starting to see how high it's trying to charge the battery. Too high and you'll burn the alternator. Max amperage should be about 10 amps after a few minutes from starting. The alternator will try more output if battery is low.