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2002-2006 Camry heater core DIY

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48K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  t.mcginley.jr  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

My 2004 Camry LE (2.4L 2AZ-FE engine and auto trans) has ~220k miles on it and the heat recently stopped working. The blower still pushed air out and the thermostat is brand new, but there still wasn't any heat. After some researching it seems that the heater core is a common problem on these cars after a decent amount of miles. Basically the row (tubes) of the core are so thin that debris easily gets stuck and clogs it up, starting on the passenger side and working its way toward the drivers side as it clogs. So if you start to notice that the heat on the passenger side isn't nearly as hot as the drivers side, that's your first clue.

Side note: NO TRIM/DASHBOARD HAS TO BE REMOVED TO DO THIS.

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk, it's not a hard job but if you think it's too much then you should let a mechanic do it.

Parts required:
-Heater core (I used a Spectra Premium heater core off of Amazon for $75 shipped, part # 93068. Or you can source an OEM heater core for $300-400)
-1 gallon of your favorite radiator fluid/coolant

Tools required:
- Needle nose pliers, regular pliers, vice grips
- Screw drivers (regular Phillips and a small flat head)
- Hose pinch pliers (optional)
- Small catch can/oil pan for catching coolant coming of the heater core

Steps:

1) Remove the engine cover and air intake box/pipes. I didn't take picture of this but its pretty simple. Two 10 mm nuts holding on the engine cover. Air box has two 10mm bolts holding it down. There are 2 vacuum lines that need to be removed, one large one going to the valve cover and one small one going to a nipple on the throttle body. After that there's just one large clamp holding the intake tube to the throttle body, squeeze the clamp with pliers while pulling up on the tube and the whole intake setup should come away from the engine. Stock picture:

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2) Use hose pinch pliers on the two heater hoses to stop more coolant from draining. You don't necessarily need to do this, but its less messy. Remove the clamp holding each heater hose to the hard lines coming out of the firewall and pull them off. Some coolant will leak out. If not using hose pinch pliers, just quickly hold the hose in an upright position to stop coolant from coming out. I zip-tied mine off to the side so they were out of the way:

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3) Next go inside the car and start pulling on the carpet directly next to the gas pedal, it has 2 velcro spots holding it on. It will be a little stiff but it will bend enough to wedge it under the gas pedal and out of the way. You'll be looking at the heater core now:

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4) Use the small flat head screw driver to un-crimp the metal around the heater core pipes. Each pipe has an O-ring that seals it against the heater core and then they crimp the metal around it to hold it tight. The new core will come with these pipes and O-rings so don't worry about messing up the old ones. You'll want to have a small pan or something to catch any coolant that spills out (also have some rags). Once you uncrimp them, you can pull them out of the heater core:

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5) There's a plastic bracket/clip holding the heater core pipes to the firewall, you will need to unclip it to pull the pipes out completely. Also, use a screwdriver and remove the small strip of metal holding the heater core itself in (shown in the previous pics).

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6) Pull the pipes out completely and then you should be able to wiggle the heater core itself out. I had to use pliers to pull on the outlet with enough force to remove it, I guess they get somewhat stuck from years of heat. Watch out as coolant is still inside the core and will spill.

7) New heater core looks like this (the Spectra Premium one). I un-crimped the pipes from this one before installing because I didn't think there would be enough room to get it in as-is. If the gas pedal wasn't there it might be possible. Once you remove the pipes, just slide the new heater core into the air box, secure it with the metal strip and screw, then reattach the pipes and crimp the metal back with pliers or vice grips. You need to crimp them hard enough so that it secures the pipe, but they will still be able to wiggle some. I found it easier to slide the pipes through the firewall first and then pushing them into the core and crimping them. Once the pipes are in, reattach the clip holding them to the firewall.

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8) Don't push the carpet back yet. Re-attached the heater hoses in the engine bay with their clamps. Re-install the intake tube and air box assembly (remember to attach the two vacuum hoses). Now, make sure your overflow bottle is at least half full. The new core is empty so it will need to fill up. Start the car and let it get hot, then turn the heat on full so that the heater core fills up. Make sure the heater core pipes aren't leaking. Mine didn't leak at all, but if yours do you will need to crimp them a little better. If all is good, push the carpet back up where it belongs.

9) Let the car cool down fully and remove the radiator cap. Expect the fluid to be a little low since the it had to fill up the heater core. Fill the radiator back up with coolant, reinstall the cap and run the car again until its fully hot. Repeat this until the radiator stays full. Also make sure the overflow bottle is at a good level, if there is any air in the system it will bleed out through the bottle so you need to keep fluid in it.

10) Enjoy your heat!


Post if you have questions or want me to add anything!
 
#2 ·
Thank you

Terrific write up, thank you! This doesn't look nearly as daunting of a job as some I've done in the past.

I picked up a '03 with the stripped head bolts and repaired. But the heat doesn't seem to work as well as one would think it should. Seems someone put "head gasket in a bottle" as there was a ton of crap in the cooling system. I'm wondering if some worked it's way to the heater core and it's partially plugged.
 
#4 ·
Wow, thanks for this write up, I was trying to solve this same problem in my parents car and was going to try the "flush the heater core" method using a drill pump but if that didn't work I was just gonna let it be since the other way of replacing this involves tearing the whole dashboard apart, but this seems much more easily doable.
 
#5 ·
I should have mentioned this in the writeup itself, but I did in fact try flushing the heater core before trying this. I didn't use any kind of power flusher or fluids, just a regular garden hose and then a compressor at ~90 psi to blow out the water. I flushed it about 3 times in either direction and got lots of chunks to come out, but still no heat.
 
#9 ·
t.mcginley.jr said:
Post if you have questions or want me to add anything!
Can add some pics and detailed info on the following:

1. How you uncrimped the pipes (so as not to damage them).

2. Where the clip securing the heater core in the box is specifically?

3. How you removed the clip securing the pipes to the firewall (did you pry it, separate it, etc.).

4. How much coolant came out of the heater core in the car?

Great DIY and it is great to know this repair can be done without dash removal!
 
#10 · (Edited)
Wow didn't think this would actually be made a sticky so fast, thanks guys! hardtopte72 I'll make sure to add those details and some more pictures tonight.

Did you inspect the old heater core to see if it was actually plugged up? I would like to see those pictures if you can post them. Thanks for the super well done post. Regards
Thanks for asking, in the name of science I went in the garage last night and took a hack saw to the old heater core. The pictures speak for themselves:

This is some of the nasty fluid that came out of the core even after draining it:
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The upper inlet (I bent it some with pliers when trying to remove it):
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Cross section of the core, that green stuff is sludge not liquid:
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Finally inside one of the end tanks itself, as you can see every row is pretty much caked with nasty old coolant:
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As you can see there probably wasn't much coolant getting through that. Mine might have been worse than others, I doubt if any of the previous owners changed the coolant and there was probably at least one bottle of Bars Leak in the cooling system (trying to fix the head gasket, which was actually stripped head bolts).
 
#11 ·
Heater Core Tips

2004 Camry with 265K miles. When it idles for a long period of time with heat or a/c on, there would be small periods of time where I would smell coolant exiting the vents which was periodic. That said, I did this exact repair as shown above as well. It's a very easy repair.

I want to propose this repair:

1.Take a tube cutter to the mounted pipes and remove a small section of each pipe.
2. Now, do the same to the new pipes in the same locations.
3. Remove the old core and put in heater hoses with clamps. If you keep the car and a core goes bad, you have made it an even simpler and quicker repair. Plus, you would not have to worry about smudging up the factory "press fit" tubing into the new core.

Call it a "quick change" core if you will!

Forget $1,500 estimates to take the dash apart.
 
#12 ·
2004 Camry with 265K miles. When it idles for a long period of time with heat or a/c on, there would be small periods of time where I would smell coolant exiting the vents which was periodic. That said, I did this exact repair as shown above as well. It's a very easy repair.

I want to propose this repair:

1.Take a tube cutter to the mounted pipes and remove a small section of each pipe.
2. Now, do the same to the new pipes in the same locations.
3. Remove the old core and put in heater hoses with clamps. If you keep the car and a core goes bad, you have made it an even simpler and quicker repair. Plus, you would not have to worry about smudging up the factory "press fit" tubing into the new core.

Call it a "quick change" core if you will!

Forget $1,500 estimates to take the dash apart.
That's not a bad idea, I've heard about it being done in other cars especially ones with hard-to-reach heater cores. Cut the tubes, put some hose on with clamps and call it a day.