Sounds like the classic window regulator issue. Could also be sticking in the window run (the portion that touches the window, sits inside the door frame).

Some online stores that are recommended: www.rockauto.com and www.1sttoyotaparts.com

 

I have the exact same problem with my 2002 LE. You can get a new replacement motor+regulator on eBay here for $60 shipped, like I did. (I'll put mine in just as soon as I have a day off that doesn't also coincide with a thunderstorm.)

 

^^ Is it hard to do? I gotta do the same but when I took of the door interior it looked like a cramped space to get to. I just gotta save some money, I gotta do the two front doors.

 

I guess my real question should've been, is it probably a safe bet to go ahead and order the power window regulator so that when I get the door apart, I already have the new part on hand.

 

I just did it. (Pics forthcoming.) It's a safe bet.

I noticed there's two other threads about a problem with power windows (likely to require replacing the motor/regulator).

In words, here's the deal: Take the door panel off. (Pry off the black fin by the side view mirror, then pry off the arm rest. Then unscrew the screw in the inside door handle, and the two screws revealed underneath the arm rest. Then unscrew 1/4 turn and pry out the plastic screw on the outer edge of the door. You can now pry off the door panel, start at the bottom and work up; it will lift up at the top.) The inside door handle will fit through its hole in the panel if you rotate the panel. Unplug the wiring harness (for the power windows and locks).

Use a ziploc baggie or other so you don't lose any screws. (In a pinch, you could use the ashtray.)

Peel off the plastic weather guard. (Be careful about the black gunk that holds it on.) Unscrew the two screws holding a black metal cover in place in the lower corner of the door, and remove that cover.

Pop the control panel off the door panel and plug it back into the wiring harness. (You actually need to have the car powered -- not battery disconnected -- to do this job.) Roll the window down until two 10mm bolts are visible through the metal panel of the door. One of the nuts will be visible / accessible through the big hole you just opened by removing that metal cover. The other one will be visible / accessible though a smaller circular hole. Basically, roll down the window until you can get to the nut through that smaller circular hole. These are what attach the window pane itself (with two plastic tabs glued on) to the motor/regulator. Remove those bolts (carefully, so they don't fall down inside the door). The plastic tabs for the window pane have some indentations that match protrusions where the nuts are (to keep it more securely in place and aligned). Just push back on the arm of the motor/regulator to separate them. Then carefully lift up on the window pane, and you can actually pull it completely out of the door frame. Put it somewhere soft and safe. (I just used the back seat.)

Now there's 4 (four) 10mm bolts on the door that are holding the main body of the motor/regulator to the door frame, and there's 2 (two) more 10mm bolts holding an "arm" of the motor/regulator to the door frame as well (closer to the outer edge of the door). (There's another bolt above those latter two that you don't need to remove.) One of those 4 bolts I first mentioned is actually a nut and a double-sided threaded screw. You can just remove the nut for now, but make sure you also remove the screw once the motor/regulator is out of the door.

Also, you need to unplug the wiring harness that goes to the motor/regulator (with all the other wiring harnesses in the upper corner of the door), and squeeze the plastic wedges that are holding it affixed to the metal frame of the door to get it out. You can use your hand to feel where the wires go to know which one is for the motor/regulator, as opposed to for the speaker or whatever.

With the wire unplugged and all the bolts removed, you can pull the motor/regulator out through the big hole revealed when you removed the black metal cover. Unscrew that double-sided threaded screw from the old motor/regulator with your fingers and screw it into the same location on the new motor/regulator. Then put the new motor/regulator back in the door frame in the same way that you took the old one out. Screw the 4 main bolts back in to the new motor/regulator, then screw the two "arm" bolts back on, and plug the wiring harness in.

Now use the power window to roll up the window so that the arm of the motor/regulator is where it needs to be to screw the two bolts that attach the window to it. Put the window back in (make sure it feels like it's smoothly in the guide rails) and pop the plastic tabs back onto the new arm, and screw in those two bolts.

Unplug the wiring harness for the power window and lock controls, put it back in the door panel, and put the door panel back on, and you're done.


The only caveat I encountered is that the "cheap" $60 motor/regulator I mentioned from eBay has the controls backwards. (Up is down and down is up.) I didn't realize this until I tried to put both windows down from the driver's side simultaneously; after I already thought the job was done.

(I also have replacement side power mirrors also with backwards controls; up is down, down is up, left is right, and right is left. Either I have a strange Corolla, or these 3rd party parts manufacturers aren't doing their homework. The wiring harnesses are oriented, after all.)

I'm not burning with desire to take the door panel off again, and (I'm guessing) cut the wires in the wiring harness and switch them (including soldering and heatshrink wrap), at this juncture.

 

Takes you only a few minutes to pop the door panel off, get the inside access panel off and give it a good look. There is a good chance that it is the regulator - but I personally like to diagnose it first before any money leaves my wallet for a part. Could be an overloaded wire or the bolts from the regulator backing off the bottom of the window (this was a cause of sticking windows in some 2003-2004 Corolla/Matrix/Vibe - there was a factory recall on those bolts).

 

zuzu_,

Thank you very much for the excellent / detailed instructions ! ! !

Very impressive.

I took the inside panel of the door off yesterday, and removed the black metal cover. I think the problem I'm faced with is that the motor is bad. Here's why I say that. The window will actually operate smoothly, but only provide operation for enough distance to open the window fully, then raise it about 1/2 way. In other words, about 1.5 cycles. It doesn't matter where the starting point is (for instance, it behaves the same way if I begin with the window fully open, close it, then bring it back down. It will stop about 1/2 way down). Then, once I let it sit for a few minutes, it will work again, but only about the same amount of travel. However, if I only let it sit for a few seconds, it will not travel as far. It's as if the motor only has enough juice to move the window so far, then needs a rest before it can move the window some more. Sounds weird, I know. I sprayed lithium grease on the inside of the tracks in the regulator (where the white nylon wheels travel in the regulator) and sprayed silicone in the window tracks. Nothing seems to be binding. Like I said, it operates smoothly, but only for a limited amount of travel, and it doesn't matter where the starting point is, it will only move the window so much before it stops.

Has anyone experienced the same issue I described (or tried to describe) ?

 

I think the problem I'm faced with is that the motor is bad. Here's why I say that. The window will actually operate smoothly, but only provide operation for enough distance to open the window fully, then raise it about 1/2 way. In other words, about 1.5 cycles. It doesn't matter where the starting point is (for instance, it behaves the same way if I begin with the window fully open, close it, then bring it back down. It will stop about 1/2 way down). Then, once I let it sit for a few minutes, it will work again, but only about the same amount of travel. However, if I only let it sit for a few seconds, it will not travel as far. It's as if the motor only has enough juice to move the window so far, then needs a rest before it can move the window some more. Sounds weird, I know.

That was exactly the symptom I had, and the same that others here have described. I concluded it's a bad motor/regulator (likely the motor is worn out), and switching it out with a new one solved the problem.

A symptom leading up to that seems to be slower movement. My passenger's side window was slower than the driver's side since the day I bought my car from the original owner. Now, after replacing it with a new motor/regulator, it's slightly faster than the driver's side.

 

I found this link that seemed to do a better job of describing the problem than I did:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Repair-832/Power-Window-Toyota-Corolla.htm

This is the exact same thing I'm experiencing.

Hmmm . . . I wonder if it's possible to get the parts to rebuild the motor?

zuzu, thanks again for all your help.

 

Follow up to this thread I initiated.

First off, zuzu's instructions were nothing short of fabulous. They were 100% accurate and thorough. zuzu: Thank You. Thank You. Thank You ! ! !

In my case, the problem was the motor. The regulator was OK. The symptom was upon attempting to power down (or up) the window, it would only progress a limited distance, then stop. If you let it sit for a minute or two before re-attempting, it would make more progress, but still only move a limited amount. The longer you let it sit, the more distance it would travel.

I picked up a "Dorman" brand motor from Pep Boys. It was $66. Removal / installation was exactly as zuzu mentioned with one additional step if you are replacing only the motor. Before you remove the motor from the regulator, put a bolt through the regulator so that it does not try to return to the up position (there's a coil spring on the regulator that assists the lifting of the window). The instructions that came with the motor mention this step. After you install the new motor, remove the bold. Unfortunately, I hadn't read the instructions from Dorman and the regulator "kicked" (returned) to the up position after I removed the original motor. Not a really big deal if you forget to do it, but it was frustrating getting it lined back up. I used spray lithium grease on the moving parts of the regulator before I put it back in.

I accidently broke the clip that holds the power window switch in place in the door panel so I JB welded the switch back in. The piece that the window switch mounts in is a separate piece from the rest of the door panel so if I ever need to replace the switch I'll have to replace that piece at the same time.

BTW, the Dorman part came with three different wiring harnesses, one of which was the exact match for the Corolla.

 

@Brad1 Thank you for the excellent essay on the power windows. The one begins.."I just did it" Saved me $$$$$$. I know cars, and Corollas in particular but never did that particular job before. Learned a ton, there is a video on the same job but not near as good as your text instructions. Now I need you to come to my house and do a lot of things on my '06. (Just kidding of course) But thanks a million

 

Does Not Regulate!!

Crazy...I just replaced both driver side regulators yesterday. Got them on eBay for around $40 each and seem just fine. The rear one had a non-matching plug on it so I snipped and butt spliced in. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a ten mm socket. The regulator does not bolt to the glass for the rear window; it just has a bearing roller that must be slipped into the window bottom track. Sure nice to have those windows going again...had to avoid toll booths, my mail box, and Sonic!!