Pull the weather strip out and clean the rust off the affected area, some black Rustoleum paint to get close to matching the finish. When you reinstall the weatherstrip start at the place where it is still in place and pull on the weatherstrip as you reinstall it. This will help it fill the gap seen the photo and it should help to reduce-eliminate the wind noise. It's normal for the weatherstrips to shrink with age.

 

Thanks OM! I'm guessing probably a good idea to replace all weatherstripping, correct? It's all original, and I'm noticing bubbling on the outside of the trim on the matching area on the right so likely going there too.

 

Every_Single_Gen5 has that rust on that same place. Both of my 2004s (XLE and SE) has rust in that same location and many Gen5 in the junkyard has some kind of corrosion on that part as well.

Wind noise, how is your rubber lower window chrome trim is?? If it's missing the rubber piece that should had been on there, that will cause some noise as well.

 

Every_Single_Gen5 has that rust on that same place. Both of my 2004s (XLE and SE) has rust in that same location and many Gen5 in the junkyard has some kind of corrosion on that part as well.



Wind noise, how is your rubber lower window chrome trim is?? If it's missing the rubber piece that should had been on there, that will cause some noise as well.

Thanks King. I guess that area of the G5 is similar to the rear wheel arch on some accords, I had a 94 with that problem. Is the fix a whole new door shell?

Here is a shot of the chrome trim, seems ok to me. Certainly chime in, or anyone else, if you see something off.

 

Starting repair process will document best I can.

Started by reviewing this video on replacing the seals:

While this gentleman was very nice, he neglected to point out to n00bs such as myself that there can be locktite in the door stopping thingy threads. I noticed but forgot to clean it out before replacing. While I got lucky on the right side, mangling of bolts and threads ensued on the left. Documented here:

I bunged the door threads on my poor old Gen 5 (2003) have to remove the door stop thing to replace outer door gaskets. The video I watched failed to remind me to clean off the locktite. Doh!

Got away with it on the right side, but not the left. So begins my first adventure with a tap and die kit. Kits abound at Home Depot etc, but no cutting oil? Had to borrow from a friend. Fortunately Home Depot had the 8mm, 1.25 pitch flange bolts I needed. Then the next challenge, you'll notice the tight space on the left rear area, the kit didn't come with an extension. After watching a video on using a power drill for tapping that made me nervous, I remembered: I am a pack rat and I can do this old school

What a perfect match, for a 280K car. Success!

But the front left has even less space. This pack rat doesn't give up so easily

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the "leverage" I needed to tap the even more bunged up thread there. So I had to add to the tool collection.

I got lucky and Amazon could ship tap extensions the same day on Prime. And I am back to exiting my car without fear!

I ordered the outer gaskets from OEMpartsquick.com, couldn't find them on Rock Auto, which I thought was strange. That company was fine, they showed up in a reasonable amount of time, but the gaskets were mislabeled both in the bags and the invoice. So I had to offer them up to make sure I had the right parts after the bag I opened was NOT for the left rear door. I was able to figure them out matching each.. starting corner, for lack of a better word. I matched them up inside the bag in case a return was in my future. It all worked out but it was an unwelcome bit of stress.

I am glad that i did this while the weather was warm, much easier to work with the plasticky bits. Especially the plastic keeper pieces on each rear door. I broke each one at the top, so I need to remember to order replacements when I get to the inner seals. I would probably have completely broken them both in the winter time.

These were Toyota OEM, and in line with Toyota's reputation for high quality. The plastic anchors were color coded for matching up mounting points. I was amazed how easily they aligned themselves back in their homes. A truly clever bit of engineering in my opinion. Other than the left side bolts, the whole process was very easy. For any others that do this, please make sure you clean that locktite out before running those bolts back in!

Looking back, I think I didn't fully review the video before ordering the parts. Had I watched the whole video, I would have known to order inner seals as well. While I want to order replacement rear door "keeper" things for the outer seals... I don't know I'll be holding on to the car that long. I've put so much money into it this year... I just don't want the thing to rot out on me.

Started by digging out the rot, then will dremel sand. Here's an odd thing: the wind roar has gone away, I'm almost certain of it. Would hear it before as low as 30 mph. Had it up to 60 and I think it's gone!

EDIT: Wind roar has nothing to do with the outer door gaskets. It came back when I opened the window. Once I opened it by accident at highway speed, and the noise was TERRIBLE after that. Eventually it "resettles" and quiets down. So it seems to be something with the seals inside the window track, by my estimate.

 

Before I replaced the left rear door seal, I did the full repair posted in the rest of this series. This post shows the sanding/cutting work I did with the Dremel I posted a picture of later in this series. Home Depot was selling it for $50, and it came with a set of attachments. After seeing a Harbor Freight version for $10, I felt a little foolish, but I don't think it was open when I bought it and... well I needed more attachments anyway. I bought a wire "cup" seen in the little box on that post, but that was difficult to use. As I had to get a tap and die kit anyway due to my bunging of threads, I bought two more attachments seen on the box, those were used the most, along with the little barrel sander.

I grinded, sanded and cursed for probably about an hour. Then I declared it done enough, and taped the mess up for painting. Wished I put earplugs in.

 

I used the Rustoleum Automotive Enamel pictured in a later post, and followed instructions. Did a couple light coats. I wanted to use the Rust Restorer version, but it recommended a 24 hour curing process, and I just didn't have time for that. My thought on this is the best part about it is there is now a "relief" for the water to drip out. Clearly, it's gotten in there somehow. Maybe I waited too long to replace the seals?

 

While I had the outer seals off, I decided to document the condition of each door/window frame. This post is the right rear door. And you can clearly see where the water is getting in, this is the top corner. I kind of wish I had treated that before resealing it, but I don't do this for a living, only one weekend to get this right, plus do other stuff with my kid. And besides, how would I treat this? Grind out rot and... try to build a corner out of bondo? Eesh..

Maybe this is candidate for the Rust Restorer, as long as it's dry for 24 hours and I can ride my motorcycle work. But I'd probably have to buy a replacement seal as there's no guarantee I can get this one out without breaking an anchor.

Here's the bottom corner below of the right door. I'm VERY tempted to drill/cut a hole here to let the water run out. Any thoughts from any TN'ers on that would be appreciated.

 

Here's the Right front door, three little Predator Laser Site dots of rust at the bottom. "Get to the choppah!!!"

Again another potential candidate for opening a drain hole.

No rust at the top corner. But I did take a pic of the top outer below. The rusty part on the left is the top of the right rear door, and that makes sense when you look at the post above.

 

Swinging around to the Left front (driver's) door. There is some rust on bottom of this door, not shown. It was the only door that had rust in that area. I'm going to have to get back to that and rustoleum that section before it gets out of hand.

This top area has a little hole where I could see water get in and indeed a chunk of rust is evident, I tried to dig that out with a pick, unusucessfully.

There's the top corner starting to give way. Another area for water ingress.

And the bottom area, starting to show signs of rust. Another potential drain hole to be cut.

 

Wow thank you for these pictures! Nice job on the repair. I might have to do that to slow it down. At least most was underneath and not visual. What did you use?

I'm thinking there has to be some kind of poor manufacture or poor design. All these Gen5 doors rust the same location!

 

You're welcome, hope they help others as well.

I now wish I had replaced the door rubber much sooner, my guess is 150K miles ago. Not sure if would have done anything.

I described the tools in posts above, I should probably reorganize this thread. I'd really like to link to my thread hole fix, vs. quoting the while thing. My intention is to update this as the months progress, see if my fixes work. Please bump thread to remind, for those interested, as I'm forgetful.

More appreciated would be thoughts on my ideas above, specifically cutting holes to let water drain. Will that work? Make it worse? Really not sure what to do about the tops of the doors. Any ideas or feedback is welcome.

When King noted that all Gen5's have that problem, of course that now has me checking out every Gen 5 I see, lol. Including my neighbor's. But I'm noticing an interesting trend...

Some of you may be aware of the light restyling that was done in 2005-2006. Easiest way I identify them is by the taillights.

They have a clear top, and bottom. Unlike the older ones like me and Kings', which is all red.

I've walked up to a bunch of 2002-04, and most of them have rust in this same area. I have yet to see an 05-06 with that rust issue. Mind you these are all in North NJ, so stuff definitely rusts here. Did these Gen 5.5's (if I may) have a running change in the door? Anyone else out there have a 5.5 with rust?

I'll certainly let you all know if I build the gumption to pose the awkward question to the neighbors: "Could I, uh, open the doors to your car and take look at them?" Otherwise if someone out there has a 2005 or 6 and is feeling generous, would love to know if you think they have something different.

 

Bumping as I've updated my posts above. Leaving this pic here as mark, see if the rust grows in the future.