ALSO, since I'm so worried about breaking bolts, I'm trying to find rear strut torque specs...but everybody says different things:

2003 COROLLA S

REAR STRUT:

This strut only has fasteners up top - they are two nuts that are tightened from the rear seats in the car (where you fold down the rear seats to get access to them).

Then there is one bolt that is fastened from the wheel well side up at top of strut flange.

Then there is one big nut and washer that fastens the circular ring part of the quick strut to the wheel.

I'm confused what is torque spec:

2 DIFFERENT Toyota service centers (reading from repair manual) said:
29 ft-lbs for the two nuts at top of rear strut (via rear passenger seats),
unknown for the bolt that goes up to the top (accessed through wheel well area).
188 ft-lbs for the nut/washer, at the bottom of the quick strut !!!!!!

But that didn't sound right....

What is strut to arm bolt? Is that the same thing as the nut/washer at bottom of strut that fastens the bolt that passes through the circular ring at bottom of strut?

I'm wondering if above is spec for a non 'S' model corolla.


Chiltons says 59 ft-lbs for everything for 2009 corollas. That one has pictures and it looks exactly like my 2003 Corolla S....but it has different instructions than the 2003 corolla.

Help! What is rear strut torque spec? I'm super paranoid now about stripping bolt

Autozone says 56 ft-llbs for 99-05 corolla rear SHOCK ABSORBERS:

Remove the two nuts at the top, the single nut at the bottom and the shock assembly.

To install:

Replace the shock absorber and the three nuts and bolts. Torque all three to 56 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).


THEN it says 59 ft-lbs for a different set of instructions on the same page:

Remove the three nuts on the upper side of the shock absorber.
Remove the shock absorber.

To install:

Replace the shock absorber and the two nuts and bolts on the lower side of the shock.
Replace the three nuts on the upper side of the shock and torque to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
Replace the two nuts at the lower side of the shock and torque to 128 ft. lbs. (173 Nm).



I DO NOT HAVE ABS on 2003 COROLLA S. I'm clueless....Do I have shock absorbers vs macpherson struts? Is one set of instructions for one vs the other? I am thinking the toyota service specs are wrong. I'm thinking it should be all 59 ft lbs....but I'm not sure.

I don't want to break the 2 bolts at top of rear struts by torquing nuts to 59 ft lbs. I have them set at 29 ft-lbs for now - using the original toyota OLD NUTS. I didn't use the new nuts this time as they lock and I can't take them off.

 

Rear of 2003 uses shock absorbers, not struts. What's difference? Look at bottom end. Shock has only one hole, so it doesn't function to locate/determine lateral position of wheel. The axle/suspension arms locate wheel and shock just dampens velocity.

27-29 lb*ft is for upper mount that attaches to body of car. Accessible from rear seats. This part doesn't need to be loosened or removed to replace shock.

59 lb*ft is for large centre shaft of shock that goes through middle of upper mount. Some shocks have flats on side of shaft, make sure shaft is rotated so flats are lined up with flats in centre of mount so shaft is inserted fully into mount

128 lb*ft is for lower shock mounting. Bushing should go into big bolt/stud on suspension with two washers and big nut. Need big 1/2" torque-wrench to reach this value.


Take photos of old parts before loosening and removing. Makes re-assembly much easier.

 

Hey I'm in SF East Bay too - berkeley area.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I'm still confused. I'm bad with terminology.

I attached a pdf of the Chiltons rear shock absorber instructions for 2010 corolla. It has detailed diagrams - which the 2003 manuals do not show anywhere. However, my S model shocks look exactly the same as the 2010 corolla.
It says 59 ft-lbs for everything.

In an autozone manual, I saw 56 ft-lbs for 99-05 corolla....but then a toyota online parts place https://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/5114/toyota-corolla-shock-strut-replacement says 29 ft-lbs and 188 ft lbs for the strut to arm bolt (which matched what toyota service said on the phone).



There are 2 nuts at the top accessible through trunk/rear seat area.

1 bolt - at the top, inserted from underside wheel well area.

Also, I need the torque on the big nut at bottom of shock absorber.

For the 2010 corolla S, Chiltons repair guide shows 59 ft lbs for everything - 2 top nuts and top bolt, and the big nut at the bottom.


See the pics below:.

Are saying for the 2003 corolla S, it really is
29 ft-lbs on the two top nuts
59 ft-lbs on the top bolt accessible from underside

128 ft-lbs for the big nut at the bottom of shock, where the bolt sticks through the circular ring part of shock absorber.

Apologies for my terminology. Toyota service had actually quoted 188 ft-lbs from an instruction guide...but none of the instruction description seemed to make sense. I can't get anywhere near that even with a 1/2" torque wrench. I can barely get to 100 ft lbs....so I stopped....thinking it should all be 59 ft-lbs like the 2010 corolla.

I set the two top nuts at 29 ft-lbs for now. The top bolt accessible through underside at 59 ft-lbs. Then for the big nut, I have it set at 59 ft-lbs for now. I'll retorque this weekend to the right torque spec.



Also why does one need to jack up the rear axle beam under the shock absorber like in the last picture to set torque. I put the shock and nut back on without doing that. However, instructions for the 2010 are particular about doing that and setting the shock absorber in that position. I dont' really get the position they are looking for.

thanks for any DIY help for someone clueless like me who probably shouldn't have taken on this task.

 

I just bought Monroe 172114 and 172115 front struts (the quick strut ) and the MONROE 171373 rear struts

On front driver side, all 3 bolts are spinning as I was an idiot rotating the torque wrench around each nut trying to get up to spec.

How in the world are you an idiot for trying to torque them to specs? Too hard on yourself. I suspect it's something to do with Monroe. The aftermarket mounts all either stink, or are mediocre. You can try to press one of the bolts off of the original front strut and press it on the new strut. At least that's what I was able to do on a Gen 3/4 Camry using a bench vise (I believe I had the strut disassembled). The base of the bolts had little ridges on them to lock them in place on the mount, so if they are fully inserted, there's no way they can spin (unless you stripped 'em?) Also, it is common knowledge in at least the Gen 3/4 Camry forums that the original nuts from Toyota are much more hardy than the cheap nuts the aftermarket manufacturers include with the new strut assemblies. The consensus is to reuse the original nuts and throw out or repurpose the cheap new nuts.

Not sure if you also need the front torque specs, but 29 ft lbs is correct for the three nuts that hold the strut to the body near the top of the back seat:

Front suspension support x body: 29 ft. lbs.
Front suspension support at piston rod: 34 ft. lbs.
Steering knuckle x shock absorber (strut): 113 ft. lbs.

 

Rear suspension torque specs (from 2004 Corolla factory service manual):

Piston rod set nut: 41 ft. lbs.
Shock absorber at body: 59 ft. lbs.
Shock absorber at rear axle beam: 59 ft. lbs.

 

John thanks...that makes me feel better.

For the Front struts, what do you think, are they safe as-is, or will it affect alignment?

The nut is fastened down...but the bolt and nut spin together. I don't think the strut is going anywhere - but it could possibly move side to side slightly since the bolt isn't welded to the strut anymore.

I have the option to return to rockauto...but I have to rip it and return it. It's just going to be a pain to take the 3 nuts off now as they are locked on and the upper bolt spins.

Any recommendations greatly appreciated! I'm the panicky type lol. Yes, I had 29ft-lbs for the top 3 nuts and 113 ft-lbs for the knuckle shock absorber.


Do you also know the torque specs on the REAR shock absorber for 2003 S model?

I'm super paranoid about the rear struts, where I haven't fully torqued up the rear shock absorber top 2 nuts - as I"m not sure if the spec on those is 29 ft-lbs or 59 ft-lbs ( for the rears).

I did put the old toyota nuts on the rears and will repurpose the new ones that came with it, which seemed wimpy compared to the originals.

If you know all the rear shock absorber specs, let me know. See the pics I just posted from a 2010 guide. I'm really getting confused on the rear shock torque specs for 2003 corolla S.

 

Oh thanks!

For REARS, 59 ft-lbs everywhere, except for the piston rod set nut, which I don't think I touch.

59 ft-lbs at shock absorber/rear axle beam.....NOT 188 ft-lbs which is what toyota service was saying...There was NO way I can get to 188 ft-lbs cranking on that with a 1/2" torque wrench.


The only problem now is that I'm too afraid to torque the top nuts to 59 ft-lbs. I'm set at 29 ft-lbs on the top two nuts right now. I'm afraid the bolt will start to spin on the rears, due to my bad experience on the fronts torquing those top nuts to 29 ft-lbs.

For the FRONT Monroe Struts, yes the base of the 3 bolts at the top did have those little ridges. I can't tell if they're stripped because I can't get the nut now. I need to buy locking pliers or vise to grip on to the bolt, while I try to take nut off. I only torqued to 29 ft-lbs. I was positive and I double checked the torque wrench later against an oreillys rental out of paranoia.

 

The only problem now is that I'm too afraid to torque the top nuts to 59 ft-lbs. I'm set at 29 ft-lbs on the top two nuts right now. I'm afraid the bolt will start to spin on the rears, due to my bad experience on the fronts torquing those top nuts to 29 ft-lbs.

Yeah, I can understand that. Those are the specs, though. Aftermarket mounts (and bolts) are not that great.

For the FRONT Monroe Struts, yes the base of the 3 bolts at the top did have those little ridges. I can't tell if they're stripped because I can't get the nut now. I need to buy locking pliers or vise to grip on to the bolt, while I try to take nut off.

I used a bench vise to press it out. I think I put something (maybe an unwanted deep well socket I had?) over the bottom of bolt so the bolt would pass through it, and I probably protected the threaded tip of the bolt with something while pressing it out.

 

Corolla 2010 manual appears to show larger 10mm studs for rear shock-mount; significantly larger than 8mm one on your car. That car is 20-25% heavier than yours.

I advise not to tighten little 8mm rear shock-mount stud nuts to 59-lb*ft. It will strip them and cause them to spin just like front mounts. Up to 33-lb*ft is max on most generic torque-charts for that size fastener.

As for front mounts, Monroe is lower-quality than OEM. Metal is very thin where the studs are pressed through and it strips easily. I recommend KYB which makes OEM struts & mounts. They have reinforced hole where studs press through. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502720&cc=1432914&jsn=451

What I do in cases like this is use vise & socket to press stud all way in to ensure it's 90-degrees. Then tack-weld three spots around head of stud to keep it attached to mount and not spin.

WARNING: DO NOT try to disassemble and remove front strut-mount without containing spring with compressor tool. If you loosen centre strut-rod nut without compressing spring, it will shoot nut out at over 1000fps and pack as much energy as shotgun round!!! I've seen them go through garage ceiling and through roof above as well.

BTW - do you still have old struts you removed? Usually strut-mounts outlast struts by 2:1, so can be re-used.

 

WARNING: DO NOT try to disassemble and remove front strut-mount without containing spring with compressor tool. If you loosen centre strut-rod nut without compressing spring, it will shoot nut out at over 1000fps and pack as much energy as shotgun round!!! I've seen them go through garage ceiling and through roof above as well.

That must have been horrible. It would be awful if there was someone upstairs above garage or in the attic working on something when that happened.

 

Sorry, my mistake if I got wrong the sizes of rear shock-mount studs. Found DIY for 10th-gen Corolla here: DIY - How to replace rear shock coil-springs. Certainly looks like 10mm studs (w/14mm nuts) and if yours are as well, then 59-lb*ft would be correct. However, if you've got 8mm studs w/12mm nuts, then 29-lb*ft is proper torque.