No luck replacing the headlight switch.

 

Check your chassis ground connections. Any signs of corrosion on the battery terminals?

There’s a short circuit somewhere in the steering column. As you describe it, the issues impact the cluster.

Im going on a limb, and I suspect that it’s your clock spring assembly behind the airbag.

 

Hmm thanks. battery looks fine. Eeesh. Can't afford to take it in.

 

Its $17 for a clock spring assembly.... From some youtube videos they mention the airbag.

When I insert the keys and give just a little turn but not full on ignition, sometimes all the dash lights light normally, but sometimes just the check engine and the airbag guy to the upper left. If it is just those 2 lights then the others will not come on continuing to crank will do no good, none of the lights will turn on.

Is it worth trying?

 

No, clock spring involves air bag, horn, and cruise control.


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Sorry, I gave bad info.

 

So it wont be the clock spring? Any other things I can look into? From all the googling just isn't a common problem.

 

Based on all of the things happening it sounds like a ignition problem. Was the car previously tampered/stolen/or modified?

Try this: Put your keys in the ignition to ON. Then move the shift to Neutral by keeping your foot on the brake and hand brake up. Then, turn it on. See if it this partially solves your issue.

If this doesn’t make a difference and you cannot shift to neutral, something is wrong with ignition. This leads to another question is do you have a modified, aftermarket, or broken key. Is the key in good shape.


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Thanks... Looks like we are getting a little further.

First 3 times I put it into the on position just the check engine and airbag came on.
4th time all lights and it started.

So I never use the handbrake. But with the handbrake on when all the lights should come on when starting, no headlights. If I put the handbrake down the highlights (may) turn on.... I haven't been able to get the lights to turn on when they are supposed to be on. But yea, intermittently putting the hand brake down will turn the lights on, but taking it out of P into R shuts them off again.... No change if I pull the handbrake.

With it just in the on position (assuming i have all lights on) and the handbrake. If I take it out of gear (car not running) lights shut off taking it out of gear.

Car has been in my possession for 3-4 years. I drive food delivery so it gets its wear and tear. Key looks fine. No car mods. And no recent work done.

As I previously mentioned it started 2 months ago, took it into the shop, 24 hours later they gave up and it was no longer doing it and didn't for 2 months until last week it is really pretty consistent now. Maybe out of 10 trys lights will stay on, I can reverse, drive, use signals.... But if I have to throw it into reverse, good chance I will lose all lights again.

 

I don’t really know what’s the real issue is. It’s a little confusing because we’re switching between something essential such as engine running/shifting and something with the lighting of the car.

The two doesn’t make much sense together. To better elaborate, can you drive regardless. Or is it a purely lighting issue.


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Well without driving any lights at all, something feels off. Maybe a little slow switching gears? Can't really describe it, but last time I tried driving with no lights the check engine light came on.... Went off after a few starts but something felt off.

 

I’m stuck between ignition issue (what I mentioned before) and/or a serious overall bad grounding problem.

I think there is a problem with your grounding. In a sense, tampered with or major damage exists. It’s not a easy thing to look out for honestly.

This is truly not a common issue.

There must be some damage or modifications.

I’ve only got two suspects for suggestion:
The ignition is kind of delicate. There is a proper way to responsibly actuate the ignition in these cars. You must hold the steering wheel and move it a couple degrees. You want to feel where the middle point of where the steering lock is. Then when you insert the key, it goes completely in the cylinder. Only use the slightest of turn to tumble the lock to the 1st ACC position. Then, slightest of turn to tumble the 2nd ON position. If there is any resistance, I think your lock may be causing the issue. Which leads me to think maybe you have a faulty ignition system or it was overstressed/forced. I know some people will say, but it still drives. If you had some aftermarket or rigged ignition, this scenario can indeed happen. This also questions: do you have an alarm or remote start. How far original is what you have on the vehicle and on your key set.

Grounding suspect. You want to actually physically look under the dash for non-OEM issues. Are there any weird wires that don’t look like they belong there. Otherwise, look for loose ground wires. Look for rust, corrosion, and damage. Look specifically at the DRL relay box for any modifications. It’s common that some people modify the DRL box. Was it modified?

Even if your fuse box is dry, use your defrost to get rid of any moisture from the interior of the car. If your seat belt is sticky from moisture, likely many other things in the car is moist. Use defrost windshield and floor with medium heat or high heat. See if it change anything.


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Hmm thanks. No resistance with the key/ignition and turning. I've had the car 4 years. Nothing was added to it to my knowledge before I bought it. No alarm, just that stock panic door/trunk unlock on the remote.
I am not knowledgeable about cars but have looked under the hood, under the dash and around the steering column since I had that part off and not seeing anything out of the ordinary, not finding any water or moisture in the car.

Ill try playing with the heater tomorrow. Heater/ac goes out along with the power windows and lights when it all shuts off.

Not sure if I mentioned, when all the lights go off, I can still move the lights into the 2nd and 3d position, 2nd position puts the orange lights on, 3d position turns the headlights on and brights work.... But interior lights and power to ac/heater/windows still out.

 

try disconnecting the battery, shorting the leads for a while and connecting the battery again, that'll drain power on all electronic, see if that changes anything

then try taking fuses out one by one, that'll narrow it down

 

What do you mean shorting the leads? Just disconnect? So I assume disconnect ground first then red. Wait an hour then connect red and then black?

 

No change after disconnecting the battery for an hour. I am going to cry.

 

now try the fuses, first the cabin fuse box

this will help 2003 Toyota Corolla fuse box diagram - StartMyCar

if it stops acting up with lets say the power door locks disabled, there's your short

but I'm still leaning towards the ignition cylinder being toast, if you could open that up, try "hotwiring it" we could rule that out

 

Do you have the spare key? Curious to know if this happens with both keys.

 

Thanks. I do not know enough to hotwire it.

No, I do not have a spare key.... I was just at the grocery store and a machine that says they make any key....Was thinking maybe worth a try, but aren't these special keys?

I had to run to the store... No lights on the way there and back..... I get home, restart the car it is all fine... Multiple restarts, I figure lets see if I can run another errand... Couple stops and starts and no issues.

So like with the mechanic, even if I pull the fuses, it may work, it may not.

I am going to keep trying to start it and put it in gear this evening, see if it keeps working. And then see if it does the same when it is cold in the morning.

The last time it started working 2 months ago, I had well over 200 stops and starts since then, and back to the problem, but much more consistent But as for right now, car starts and is fine.

 

I let it sit for a good 90 minutes. Outside temp is 53, so car should be cold.... Started and reversed just fine no lighting/power issue.

 

Welp, now it is working. 54 deg, had frost on the ground this morning. Started, shifted ran fine, tried it a couple times. Guess I just have to keep my fingers crossed. Thank you for everyone for taking the time to try to help.

EDIT: Did shut off again when moving into park,but started just fine and ran again. Oh well.

 

Well it worked the past 8 days without an issue. It rained last night and did it again today, put it in reverse, lost most all electrical again.... It had worked for 4 hours stopping and starting just fine before that. I just popped open the hood to see if I see any water coming in and I do not see anything. Floorboards are not wet either. Any suggestions on where I can look for water getting in the car? Thanks. Luckily I am in So. Cal so rain is rare.

 

Start with the ignition switch. They’re a fusabile link in the circuit and need to confirm that the control side of the circuit is working. Once confirmed, then need to check the load side to verify the starting sequence is reaching the starter.

Focus on getting it running first.

 

I just read the entire thread, and the most common cause of the lighting failure appears to be rain and/or shifting to Rev (or Park, which also involves Rev (Drive to Neut to Rev to Park). This suggests that something about the Rev position is shorting the lights. Here are three easy-to-test possibilities.

Here are a few thoughts:
1. The back up light bulbs are causing the short. Are the taillights filled with water after a rain? Or some condensation? If so, replace the lenses/housing. (Rockauto usually has the best prices for these, but they are not OEM if that matters to you).
2. If the lens is not wet inside, I would remove the bulbs, inspect the wiring harness, apply dielectric grease to the contacts, and reassemble.
3. The Rev switch (or wiring) is shorting. The Rev switch is essentially a momentary switch but the wiring may be frayed. Here is a vid showing the location.

 

Thanks. Will give those a look in the morning. I've wondered if it is gear shift related. But it also will go out while it is in park and I just turn on the windshield wipers, or signal will cause electrical to fail.

 

Those situations are a little strange! I don't know if the wipers and signals share any part of a circuit. The fact that wipers and signals can cause the problem suggests an issue in the steering column (as others mentioned). It is possible that a short is occurring at multiple locations, especially if you have rodent damage; did you ever have mice/rats/squirrels in the car?

 

No rodent damage that I know of. Not an area with really any rats or mice, got lots of neighborhood cats. Got 1 squirrel that lives around here, but never see them bother with cars. I also drive it every day so it doesnt sit.

I have wondered if water while driving splashing under the car could be causing it? because when it was parked when it rained overnight, and was able to drive the car for 3.5 hours doing food delivery before putting it in reverse shut things off again, had some sprinkles, but the roads were still wet. If you think it is the steering column is there anything that can be damaged from water spraying up from under the car?