v6 or 4?

 

4cyl. The error was a P2238


There is one in front that is right there between the engine and radiator but I know Im not that lucky.

 

Any symptoms other than the light? Rough idle and poor fuel economy specifically? 67k is pretty low mileage for the sensor to go out generally... But on a 4 cylinder bank 1 sensor 1 should be the one on the exhaust manifold right on the front, there's a #2 sensor after the cat. Doing some research here by searching the forum for that code it looks like some people have found the problem started from a bad PCV leaking oil into the intake, it may be too late for the sensor but you should check out your intake so you don't ruin another one if it is too far gone.

 

Any symptoms other than the light? Rough idle and poor fuel economy specifically? 67k is pretty low mileage for the sensor to go out generally... But on a 4 cylinder bank 1 sensor 1 should be the one on the exhaust manifold right on the front, there's a #2 sensor after the cat. Doing some research here by searching the forum for that code it looks like some people have found the problem started from a bad PCV leaking oil into the intake, it may be too late for the sensor but you should check out your intake so you don't ruin another one if it is too far gone.

On my Dads 2003 Camry the o2 sensor craped out around 40,000 miles.:disappoin He went to the gas station and filled the tank and when he restarted the car the check engine light came on. Got the o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 replaced and that took care of the problem.

 

Here is what happen.

Last week I got an oil change at the dealership, a few days later I have a check engine light come on. It stays on a few days then shuts off. Then comes back on. I take it to the dealer to have it checked and they advised that it was the oxygen sensor.

It says oxygen sensor pumping current circuit low (for a/f sensor) (bank 1 sensor 1)

Then I go to advanced and have them run the same thing and it also says oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1.

Dealership said nothing done during an oil change would have cause this.

 

As far as the car, it runs great, idles fine, doesn't make any strange noises, and gets the same mileage.

 

"bad PCV leaking oil into the intake"

Would this be oil where the air intake filter is? Checked the actual air filter area and it is clean.

My car after the oil changing is leaving a little oil on the ground where on my front passenger side of the vehicle. This is new since the oil change, very new and noticeable was going to wait and if it continues or was just for a short bit right after the oil change.

Took the plastic cover off the engine and looked behind it on the passenger side and think found what your were referring to on the PCV. Small hose up high that runs into the air intake part of the vehicle. It looks good and dry but directly below it near the ground almost is an identical hose that half of it is wet along with the aree below it and that is about where oil is leaking on to the ground from my car. Not sure if it is a spill from an oil change or a leak.

 

I'm not real familiar with a 2004, but the PCV valve should be either stuck in the valve cover or in the hose coming from the valve cover. According to a post I'm reading it should be under the engine cover, passenger side of the motor on the back of the motor pointing towards the firewall, it should screw in. From where that hose ties into the air intake and down into the engine from there is where you'd see oil if it was an issue inside the intake hoses.

From your description that's where you were looking, did you try wiping the area directly below the PCV valve/hose? If there's oil there it's probably a bad PCV. Frankly it'd be pretty unlikely to get a spill in that vicinity doing an oil change, the filter should be on the front and the fill is on the top front, it's possible they over filled it, or it's possible it's just a coincidence that the PCV crapped out at the same time if that is indeed what happened.

 

any help on the location of this sensor would be appreciated.

 

One sensor just before the cat and one somewhere downstream of cat. Regards.

 

Bank 1 is ALWAYS the bank that includes cylinder #1, and sensor #1 is the first one before any catalytic converters, cylinder 1 should be the leftmost cylinder looking from the front (or furthest to the passenger side if you prefer) on a 4 cylinder Camry.

 

Awesome. I will try posting a pic here in a few. It may be the one right on front that is very easy to locate and get to.

The thing is the light doesn't stay on. It came on for a few days and then went off and hadnt been on since.

 

Did they clear the code when they scanned the car? It will take a few days before the feedback system tests will complete before the code would set again. It's also possible it was an intermittent problem, but I'd definitely keep an eye on things to prevent damage, particularly to the catalytic converter, if there's still a problem.

 

No they didnt clear the code, byt the check engine light wasn't on at the time. It currently isn't on now. It seems likes the past year or so that I remember this has happened after an oil change and would go out after a few days and that would be it. It is the check engine light not maintenance light

 

The bank 1 sensor 1 screws into the top of the exhaust manifold. The manifold also doubles as the catalytic converter. What you're calling the oxygen sensor is actually an air/fuel ratio sensor. Looks exactly like an O2 but measures totally different. The A/F sensor is a much more precise instrument and is more expensive than the O2.

 

Thats it. A/F sensor is what they wrote. Says oxygen pumping current circuit low

 

2004 o2 sensor

Does somebody know how many O2 sensors camry 2004 2.4L have? I can't find upstream sensor. Was able to find air/fuel and downstream sensors. Just guessing if air/fuel and upstream O2 sensor is the same thing on camry 2004 2.4L?

 

Does somebody know how many O2 sensors camry 2004 2.4L have? I can't find upstream sensor. Was able to find air/fuel and downstream sensors. Just guessing if air/fuel and upstream O2 sensor is the same thing on camry 2004 2.4L?

You have 2. Some clarification.

The upstream sensor serves a dual role

1) A/F trim sensor
2) Oxygen sensor.

The downstream sensor serves one role

1) Oxygen sensor

 

Oil change culprit

Our 2009 Camry also started throwing a Bank 1 Number 1 Oxygen Sensor code right after an oil change. I've found that EVERY SINGLE TIME I have a dealer or oil-change shop change the oil, they ALWAYS overfill it. No one can see the fresh oil level on the dipstick until a few weeks later when it gains a little color. This last time it was seriously above the full mark.

When the oil level is too high, the crankshaft sloshes the top of it and creates foam, plus who knows whatever other mischief occurs. (Yes, excessive foaming can actually blow up an engine by putting air into the oil line.)

I expect they're all using the manufacturer spec for the fill amount, but fail to take into account the oil that's left behind after draining. The mfr. spec is probably for a brand-new, bone-dry engine. They should include a spec for an oil change, but there's more money in replacing sensors, engines and cars.

From now on, I'll change my own oil.

 

2004 camry bank 1 sensor 1 problems

I also have a 2004 camry that i took in for an oil change yesterday afternoon. I have only owned it a month so i wanted to make sure it had an updated oil change. I took it to a pretty reputable place, however, this morning i got a check engine light for the first time. I drove it right over to a parts store that ran the check engine code for me. Turns out it was a bank 1 sensor 1 current pumping low. Exactly what a previous poster had said. There's obviously a a spillage/overflow thing going on here for multiple people having this same issue after a lube job. I think i also will b doing my own changes from now on. Thanks. :headbang:

 

When I returned mine to the dealer after the oil change in regards to what happen the guy said there was nothing that could occur during an oil change to cause this and that they would run a diagnostic test for $100, if it was minor then they would wave the fee. If it was something else then they would charge me the fee and it would go towards the repair. Thats when he said it was the sensor and it would be $400 to replace parts and labor. I left pissed and without getting the repair.

After driving mine for about a week it went away. I had purchased a sensor from a local parts store and ended up returning it. I then went back to the dealer and talked with the manager and demanded a refund.(check by mail a week later) Also had to have them add more oil and check the plug because it wasn't on properly and was leaking.



This has been several months later and I have not had it come on since. That could have been a nice $400 rip off. Luckily it cost me nothing. Next time i will have the parts store run the diagnostic for free and go from there.

 

Obviously the dealer is gonna tell you nothing they did is gonna make the check engine light on because they would be responsible. Also, if they get you to agree to a diagnostic test rhats more money for them. Its just too much of a coincidence that several owners suddenly get a check engine after a recent oil change. I, like yourself, also have had no rough idle no fuel mileage change and no other problems. Leads me to believe that because the A/F sensor is so close to manifold that either oil is being spilt on it making it temporarily malfunction or they fill to full causing a malfunction that way. Either way its a good thing that neither of us wasted our hard earned cash on replacement sensor when one was not needed.

 

My wife has an '02 Camry SE (purchased new) with < 80,000 km (50K miles). On June 14, 2012, she had the engine oil (Mobil 5-30 synthetic) & filter changed by the dealer it was purchased from. A week later, the "check engine" light came on and the A/F sensor (code: P1135) was subsoquently replaced...same dealer ($600).

On June 27, 2012, the check engine light reappeared and upon taking it back to the dealer, she was informed the o2 sensor (code: P1155) would now require replacement (another $400!).

Although generally pleased with the level of service provided by this dealer, in reading some of the comments posted in this forum we can't help but wonder if something's fishy? The car is booked in for tomorrow (Nov.8) so...any expedited thoughts would be appreciated.

:thanks:

 

You suspect fishy, because your not hands on. Both the items your discussing are basic DIY's. Visible from the engine bay. The O2 sensor is approx $50. Open the hood and look. Its the wire sticking out of the exhaust manifold. Your paying $350 for somebody to do what you can do in less than an hour. Its a simple engine, dig in. get to know your car, and you wont think that way. There are other things that can cause lights to go off like a loose air box, hose fell off, bad battery, etc. Open the hood and take a look yourself. Otherwise pay and be at the mercy of mechanics.

 

Excuse me Mr. Leakyseals but, whether I'm "hands on" or not is of little relevance, much like your ridiculous comments!