Has the original intake manifold gasket ever been replaced? Intake leaks will throw off the upstream O2 sensor readings. As the engine warms up, the leak may close up.

Also, what brand O2 sensor did you use? Let us know if the CEL code changes from P0332 to something else.

Another possibility is the temperature sensor. If you have access to a scanner which shows live data, see at what temperature the computer thinks the engine is is when it's cold. For example, if the ambient temperature is 85 degrees, when the engine is "cold" (hasn't been driven since the night before) the temp should be around whatever your ambient temp is. If the scanner shows an impossible temp, like 32 or 180, then that there is a problem.

 

Has the original intake manifold gasket ever been replaced? Intake leaks will throw off the upstream O2 sensor readings.

Also, what brand O2 sensor did you use? Let us know if the CEL code changes from P0332 to something else.

never replaced to my knowledge , I have the manifold part coming today from the dealership and the throttle body gasket as well. That was my next choice.


I went with the denso o2 sensor.
I’m hopefully going to get that manifold and throttle body gasket in today. And I’m hoping that’s the cure. I appreciate the info bud!

Also just to maker sure , the part I got was
# 17171-0d020
The guy at the dealership had me questioning if it was the right once , not very pleasant up my way at the local dealership

 

Your engine needs more fuel when it's cold to operate normally. I would throw 2 bottles of Seafoam in a full gas tank and run that down to 1/4 tank to see if anything changes. This would give your fuel injectors and fuel system a good scrubbing.
Erase the knock sensor code and see if it comes back.
Like mentioned above, a bad intake manifold gasket (which is very common) creates a lean condition which will throw a P0332 code.

 

I did a google search on P0032. The find points to AF sensor and o2 sensor. inspect both wire sets for any melting and causing a short.

Vacuum leaks won’t cause too much of a miss, but it would eventually post a P0171 code if left alone for a period of time.

Start with the gasket and then go from there. Don’t be too focused on the P0032 for now.

 

Check your coolant temp sensor as well. Just a thought but ive had this same issue and it was the CTS.

 

Thanks all will be tearing it apart in a few hours , this place is awesome, really appreciate the advice!!!

 

Well I’ll actually be replacing a front wheel bearing on the 2002 Corolla for the girl first now , so definitely a delay in the manifold gasket, when it rains it pours , I just turned 35 , I have learned a lot of patience since I was a younger kid but I honestly wonder when I will be as care free as my father.

 

They will sell black gasket. You need to specifically give them the part number for the corrected orange gasket.

It’s not worth using black unless you plan on changing it again soon. The orange I was able to get it at about 7 bucks which is so cheap. I’m sure the price varies tho


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Ok so, I changed my intake mainifold and throttle body gaskets with the correct orange gaskets , still getting the code p0033 and now getting p0133 seems like it’s the downstream o2 sensor? Is my cat plugged up , I ran some seafoam in it for shits and gigs, I will say that the stuttering on the cold motor is significantly less than it was before but it’s more apparent at idle now , and again when it warms up it runs perfectly…. I have the new temp sensor , should I just replace it ?

sorry had to type this up quick.

 

I have the new temp sensor , should I just replace it ?

If you plug in a scanner which shows live data, does what it show for the engine temperature seem to make sense or is it way off? For example, if the engine is "cold" and the ambient temp where your car is parked is 75F , then the engine temp should not display as 180F or 0F or something obviously off.

 

When you reinstalled the intake manifold, did you reconnect the hidden vacuum port on the driver side of the manifold?

Also, this video may help.

 

When you reinstalled the intake manifold, did you reconnect the hidden vacuum port on the driver side of the manifold?

Also, this video may help.

Yea , I made sure everything was connected and back properly. Double checked now again. All on there.

 

If you are exceedingly analytical, and seeking root cause analysis, you -could- do a before/after catalytic pressure comparison to see if excess pressure drop, indicating plugged up cat. BUT, no BTDT from me. Might require HVAC type manometer, too? No clue. You might be able to install a "test pipe" straight through, especially if you have no emissions inspection? . But, no clue if you'd have to change computer or have voltage emulators to make that work? The racers would know.

But, data point from a couple of years ago: junkyard gave me a LOT for my old OEM cat that had rusted out pipe (16 years in Rust Belt). Aftermarket Canadian drop in has worked just fine for years. But, I was too lazy/old/no lift, so I had muffler shop install new cat.

 

Haha I had the same idea , I was going to cut my cat out sell it to the local cat guy and use the money to pay for the muffler guy to install a new cat , I have a smoke machine and live tester coming so I’m going to use that first to try and rule out some more options

 

I can get you the pin out for your throttle body. The throttle body is not shorting to ground when you press the gas pedal.

You should have a helper press the pedal and watch how the throttle body opens and closes.

Throttle position sensor needs to be tested that it’s operational.

 

I'd encourage calling local junkyards and getting quote on OEM cat. Mine required valid driver's license and VIN. MOF, took in the new cat's carton to obviate any theft issue.

Which I approve of. Local handicapped agency has had their buses hit multiple times for cat theft. They were considering parking over raised concrete pads to hinder the scumbag thieves.

 

I havent don’t the research yet but this is what I’m getting for a quick cruise down the highway with the live stream , I’ll be researching now about how to actually use this thing, sorry I’m new and just learning this process.

 

One thing I am noticing now is that it won’t read the 02 bank 1 sensor 2 , is that possibly a wiring issue ?

 

EDIT: I see it does indeed show sensor 2 voltage (at .095).

 

Yes , I’m still trying to understand this scan tool John , as you asked before the engine temp is reading properly. Still getting the p0032 and the p0133 code consistently, it pops up immediately after I erase the codes and take it for a spin, then shut the vehicle off and turn it back on.

 

P0032 indicates the air fuel sensor is not heating properly to 1200. Do you have a multimeter that can measure temperature?

Need to measure it outside of the car and apply heat to it. It should rise at a good rate. Then when the heat is removed, it should decrease at a good rate. If the temps drop fast, sensor is bad. Internal heating element could be faulty.

P0133 is also for the air fuel sensor voltage too low.

Either you used the wrong sensor part number or it’s just bad out of the box.

Go to toyodiy.com and enter your vin number to ensure you have the correct part number. There is a confusion when it’s J, 1 or 2 vin. They aren’t all the same part.

 

Now I think I’m getting somewhere , I just got a new code for p0301 misfire #1 cylinder. I’m thinking that’s probably the root cause of this issue?

 

Try switching your #1 COP (coil on plug) with the #2 COP (or any of the others). If the code switches from P0301 to P0302 then the problem is the COP. I would only use a Denso COP. Do not buy from Ebay (fake parts sometimes). Even Amazon can be suspect, especially if it's from one of their 3rd party sellers. Try RockAuto for legitimate parts. Sometimes Advance Auto Parts has Denso parts, or can order them. Look for discount coupons or codes AA sometimes has.

Regarding the other two O2 sensor codes, I had one of those codes before. I think it was P0133 which later turned (morphed?) into a P0134 (IIRC). I had a devil of a time figuring it out because the Toyota FSM shows a diagram of the ECU with all the different wires, but the ECU (PCM or whatever you call it) is installed upside down in the car, so that threw me off until I realized that.

In any event, there are steps you can follow to diagnose that. I found that one of the MANY wires in the main wiring harness had become compromised. It was a shielded wire which originates from the front O2 sensor. That main wiring harness is VERY expensive. I wound up going to the junkyard and cutting open a wiring harness (that wasn't fun) and searching carefully through the many wires until I found the wire in question. It goes from the sensor all the way to the ECU. I took that one long wire out and basically did a bypass (leaving the compromised wire in my harness). The bypass wire runs along the outside of my wiring harness and goes through the firewall into the ECU. I had to do something tricky with splicing the wire at the ECU, but I no longer remember exactly what I did. Solved the problem though. I'll see if I can post a photo later of the bypass wire.

 

I found my write-up of this similar issue that you have. It's very long, but has good info and I included a photo of the wiring at the ECU with explanations added to it. Here below is the thread:

Making Progress: P0134 Diagnosis Questions

FIXED! P0134 Diagnosis Questions I'm finally getting back to this P0134 that I've had for quite a while on my 2004 Corolla with 351K miles (runs fine). My questions are in RED near the bottom of this thread. P0134 is "no activity" from the upstream oxygen sensor. It originally started as a...

www.toyotanation.com

 

I can get you the pin out for your throttle body. The throttle body is not shorting to ground when you press the gas pedal. You should have a helper press the pedal and watch how the throttle body opens and closes. Throttle position sensor needs to be tested that it’s operational.

need to retrain the idle look it up on YouTube to retrain your idol if your car died at any time the programming is separate than the rest of the computer

Retrain your idle!!! Everytime your car died it needs to be retrained before it will run correctly!

 

Wow this is off the rails. P0032 is O2 sensor ( or Air Fuel Ratio Sensor) HEATER. Check your fuses. If popped more likely the harness to the sensor is rubbed through some where. Very common on Toyota, especially the downstream sensor. Felpro makes silicone in take gaskets that will never leak. I don't understand the fetish on the board for Toyota parts. Beck Arnley is also great stuff.
Look up the code and read before you buy. As for the misfire when cold, that is a BluesClue the intake is leaking. Any scanner that does OE data as opposed to just OBD will have individual misfire cylinder misfire counts, what are they hot? what are they cold? Also a great way to spot a bad coil/spark plug/injector by swapping positions and seeing if the misfire count moves with the part you switched places. HTH

 

I had a cold stumble years ago on a 2004 and it was worn spark plugs

 

It was the # 1 coil pack , all issues are now gone. Thanks for help y’all !

 

Did you replace the coil pack or swap it with cylinder 4 and then replaced the coil.

 

I swapped it with same results and stumbling then it threw the code on a different cylinder

I replaced the coil pack