Hi, my 2005 Highlander doesn't always switch to hot air lately. I noticed the knob for the temperature setting when jiggled will switch it on. The mechanic told me the blend door actuator needs replaced, and the cost is $320 for the part, and another $200 for labor (Northern Virginia, USA). I'd like to see if I can do this myself or if I should just pay the money to let them do it. I think the part is only like $40 on Amazon if I am looking at the right part. Any guides or just tips appreciated. I searched the forum but didn't see any guides to fixing it myself, and I'm new here and maybe missing something. Thank you.
JeffreyW75
Do you have the manual temp control or automatic temp control. If you don’t know post a picture of the controls
Probably not the blend door actuator. Probably the temperature knob ribbon cable. Several threads on the forum on how to fix it. Pretty easy fix if you have a good temp control soldering iron. One good thread is below. There are others
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Issue with AC climate control NEED HELP!
Well I’ve tried soldering it twice it worked the first time for a bit then quit working could I buy the digital climate control unit from the same year would that fix the problem??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
www.toyotanation.com
Blend door is on the passenger side of the center console under the dash.
The ribbon I am referring to is part of the control board assembly. From your description it was what he replaced. Did he install new or used control board. If used, it probably has the ribbon cable problem.
If it is a new board then he may not have seated the larger ribbon cable between the control board and the amplifier board properly.
If you can tap or otherwise work the temp knob and hear the actuator move, I doubt it is the actuator
Look up the diagnostic procedure for diagnostic trouble codes B1431 and B1441 in the factory service manual. You can get access at AlldataDIY, Mitchell1diy, or Toyota TIS for $20.
You can test the actuator on the car, but there is a significant risk of breaking it if you run it into the stops.
You can use two DVM’s to monitor voltage and feedback resistance.
The ribbon I am referring to is part of the control board assembly. From your description it was what he replaced. Did he install new or used control board. If used, it probably has the ribbon cable problem.
If it is a new board then he may not have seated the larger ribbon cable between the control board and the amplifier board properly.
If you can tap or otherwise work the temp knob and hear the actuator move, I doubt it is the actuator
Look up the diagnostic procedure for diagnostic trouble codes B1431 and B1441 in the factory service manual. You can get access at AlldataDIY, Mitchell1diy, or Toyota TIS for $20.
You can test the actuator on the car, but there is a significant risk of breaking it if you run it into the stops.
You can use two DVM’s to monitor voltage and feedback resistance.
Thank you. He put a used one in, that had a year warranty and his labor was warrantied also. So I feel like I need to take this back to him and say, hey, the blend door actuator is no where near the knob, why when I jiggle the knob does it turn the heat on? Make him fix it under warranty since it was not cheap to replace the console (even the used ones are expensive). I feel like he is lying to me for some reason. By the way, that video looks like my climate console, so if I do have to fix this, I will take a look at that. I'm a bit annoyed though that they would tell me it is the actuator when the actuator is no where near the knob.
Just to give you an idea, there is no YouTube video I could find about replacing the actuator on a Gen1 Highlander which says something about how often they break. The Attached video is similar. As the video says, you will hear a clicking noise.
It is true that a bad temp control knob ribbon can result in the actuator gears wearing out as it makes and breaks contact, and the control system hunts for the varying settings, but not that often as far as I know.
It is true that a bad temp control knob ribbon can result in the actuator gears wearing out as it makes and breaks contact, and the control system hunts for the varying settings, but not that often as far as I know.
The Toyota list price online for the actuator is $225. The discount price online is about $170, (Olathe Toyota Parts Online) which is about what shops usually pay. They will usually mark it up legitimately to the retail price to cover part warranty and the overhead of ordering and receiving. Sounds to me like this guy is overcharging you. Also not a good sign that he did not know about this ribbon cable problem and repair it or get an exchange if that indeed is the problem, and it sounds like it is.
I believe parts on Ebay and Amazon are often lower quality or counterfeits - not always of course, but enough stories so that I avoid them. RockAuto seems to be a legit source. They sell some inferior parts, but I am not aware that they sell counterfeits, and so I believe I know I get what I pay for. Dorman is a major aftermarket supplier. Their blend door actuator is about $120 from Autozone. RockAuto has some brands I am not familiar with for about $70 and below. Not sure I would trust anything cheaper than $70.
The one thing that you can get on EBay that is legit is a repaired board. There are several small shops which will send you a repaired board for about $200 plus a deposit which is refunded when you return your bad board.
The Toyota part number for the control assembly is 55904-48110
Discount price is a little over $700.
On Car-part.com, a good source of used parts, I see $200 to $400, so the Ebay rebuilds are a pretty good deal.
Dorman also makes a no-solder repair kit: 599-040.
Autozone sells it for about $130. I have not tried it, so I don't know if there are any issues with it, but I won't hesitate to try it if I was unsure of the soldering part.
And to be clear, as you said, the blend door actuator is not just behind the temperature knob. It is down next to the passenger’s left foot behind that removable panel.
I believe parts on Ebay and Amazon are often lower quality or counterfeits - not always of course, but enough stories so that I avoid them. RockAuto seems to be a legit source. They sell some inferior parts, but I am not aware that they sell counterfeits, and so I believe I know I get what I pay for. Dorman is a major aftermarket supplier. Their blend door actuator is about $120 from Autozone. RockAuto has some brands I am not familiar with for about $70 and below. Not sure I would trust anything cheaper than $70.
The one thing that you can get on EBay that is legit is a repaired board. There are several small shops which will send you a repaired board for about $200 plus a deposit which is refunded when you return your bad board.
The Toyota part number for the control assembly is 55904-48110
Discount price is a little over $700.
On Car-part.com, a good source of used parts, I see $200 to $400, so the Ebay rebuilds are a pretty good deal.
Dorman also makes a no-solder repair kit: 599-040.
Autozone sells it for about $130. I have not tried it, so I don't know if there are any issues with it, but I won't hesitate to try it if I was unsure of the soldering part.
And to be clear, as you said, the blend door actuator is not just behind the temperature knob. It is down next to the passenger’s left foot behind that removable panel.
I am not looking at your car, so I can't rule out the actuator. Be sure to ask him what test he did to prove it was the actuator and not the control board or amplifier board, and if the board was just used, or repaired. The ribbon cable is the most common failure, but if he installed a repaired board, then the likelihood it is the actuator is increased and diagnostics is important. If the intermittent ribbon contact problem in the original control board caused the actuator to “hunt” for position, it could have resulted in worn gears; it is possible that it needs a new actuator, though from what you stated, I am still leaning toward the board. A failed actuator will often click repetitively at the worn spot or spots.
You can get an idea of how the ribbon cable problem sounds by turning the temp knob between its warm and cool extremes.
The ideal answer to what diagnostics were done would be something like: he followed the factory service manual diagnostic procedure for trouble codes B1431 and B1441, and when he applied voltage to the actuator and monitored the feedback voltage or resistance, the reading showed intermittent contact or movement.
I would consider an inadequate answer to be "I replaced the board, so the actuator is the next thing it can be."
The factory service manual gives the range of feedback voltage from 1 volt/approx 1.2k ohms (warm) to 4 volts/ approx 5k ohms (cool). You can back-probe the actuator connector to look for steady power voltage and smooth change in the feedback resistance or voltage. Best way to catch glitches is with a lab scope.
And there is also the chance that it is the amplifier board.
You can also use RepairPal to compare costs to repair in your area. I was surprised at how much the labor was on RepairPal.
Stay warm and good luck.
You can get an idea of how the ribbon cable problem sounds by turning the temp knob between its warm and cool extremes.
The ideal answer to what diagnostics were done would be something like: he followed the factory service manual diagnostic procedure for trouble codes B1431 and B1441, and when he applied voltage to the actuator and monitored the feedback voltage or resistance, the reading showed intermittent contact or movement.
I would consider an inadequate answer to be "I replaced the board, so the actuator is the next thing it can be."
The factory service manual gives the range of feedback voltage from 1 volt/approx 1.2k ohms (warm) to 4 volts/ approx 5k ohms (cool). You can back-probe the actuator connector to look for steady power voltage and smooth change in the feedback resistance or voltage. Best way to catch glitches is with a lab scope.
And there is also the chance that it is the amplifier board.
You can also use RepairPal to compare costs to repair in your area. I was surprised at how much the labor was on RepairPal.
Stay warm and good luck.
CR and all: I watched the video on the repair. Oh-oh. That guy is going about repairing the ribbon cable all wrong. NO. Do not try to reuse the ribbon cable by trimming and reusing it. Yikes, It's just gonna break off again!
A more permanent repair: De-solder the ribbon cable at both ends. Remove and discard the old cable. Replace with three individual solid-core copper wires. Leave sufficient slack so wires are not stressed upon reassembly.
BTW- I'm certain the reason that ribbon cable breaks off in the first place is the jamb nut for the temperature pot loosens over time. The knob becomes wiggly and with each use flexes the poor ribbon cable 'til it breaks. Avoid such peril: Pull off the knob, tighten the jamb nut, and apply a drop of blue Locktite to the threads. Yay! đź‘Ť
All the best, Haya....
A more permanent repair: De-solder the ribbon cable at both ends. Remove and discard the old cable. Replace with three individual solid-core copper wires. Leave sufficient slack so wires are not stressed upon reassembly.
BTW- I'm certain the reason that ribbon cable breaks off in the first place is the jamb nut for the temperature pot loosens over time. The knob becomes wiggly and with each use flexes the poor ribbon cable 'til it breaks. Avoid such peril: Pull off the knob, tighten the jamb nut, and apply a drop of blue Locktite to the threads. Yay! đź‘Ť
All the best, Haya....
Hey Haya,
Thanks. Yeah, you are right I should have mentioned that. I had put Allan’s method in above as the preferred method, but wanted to attach a video with the R&R procedures. In fairness, he does say to go to Radio Shack and get new ribbon. But Allan’s method of soldering in headers is the easiest and best method I have seen.
Thanks. Yeah, you are right I should have mentioned that. I had put Allan’s method in above as the preferred method, but wanted to attach a video with the R&R procedures. In fairness, he does say to go to Radio Shack and get new ribbon. But Allan’s method of soldering in headers is the easiest and best method I have seen.
Yes, it looks like he has way more skills than I. Us all-thumbs guys can only dream.....Haha!
Haya....
Haya....
How would this problem differ with the 2004 Highlander Limited with automatic temp control? I am having the A/C just not blow cold air from time to time. No flashing white light. It's solid white as if everything is fine.Is there still a ribbon cable/circuit board problem or is it much more likely to be the actuator?
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