Have you read the dash CEL - even if not lit it may have a pending code for a clue as to what is wrong - let us know.

 

There is no code.

 

My '03 does the same thing. I've changed fluid as scheduled and check the levels often. I'm told it may well be the result of a broken motor mount; instead of a smooth shift of power from engine to trans the torque of the engine makes it jump. There is one on each side and one in front of the engine as well as as well as a dog bone-shaped contraption at the top of the engine that is held in place by two bolts. It is the easy one to replace. Also that same "shock arrestor" on top going bad may be a sign of one of the mounts being bad and putting all the stress on that dog bone. If you pull back the round rubber flaps on either side of the dog bone the exposed rubber should be free of any cracks. Start there first, that dog bone is under $20 and easy to change. And if it is good there may still be a problem with a mount; it just hasn't affected the dog bone yet.

 

Are you sure it’s not a transmission or sensor issue? Did these changes stop the jerking in your camry?

 

My 2006 Toyota Camry jerks when accelerating between 20-35 mph. It doesn't happen all the time, only occasionally. When I accelerate slowly, it doesn't occur. Can anyone help me with this issue, please

 

Here's another idea, maybe not your issue:
The acceleration control is acting like an ON/OFF switch and makes for a jerky ride.

There is no cable from the pedal to the throttle, but a pedal position sensor that sends a voltage to the ECM. Then an electric motor is commanded by the ECM to adjust the throttle opening based upon the position and rate of change of position.

When you are slow with the foot then the ECM can keep up and the accel is smooth; but if you are too fast with the pedal then you can "beat the computer" and it overreacts trying to get into synch.

 

Here's another idea, maybe not your issue:
The acceleration control is acting like an ON/OFF switch and makes for a jerky ride.

There is no cable from the pedal to the throttle, but a pedal position sensor that sends a voltage to the ECM. Then an electric motor is commanded by the ECM to adjust the throttle opening based upon the position and rate of change of position.

When you are slow with the foot then the ECM can keep up and the accel is smooth; but if you are too fast with the pedal then you can "beat the computer" and it overreacts trying to get into synch.

Whoa! I had to read that one a couple of times before it sank in. So if it is as you say, what exactly is the remedy? A new pedal position sensor? I will keep that in mind but I already have a replacement mount ready to go in this weekend. I didn't mention another issue, vibration when accelerating quickly. A mechanic told me that the culprit for that could be a bad mount as well. I will keep that sensor in mind should both problems not go away.

 

Whoa! I had to read that one a couple of times before it sank in. So if it is as you say, what exactly is the remedy? A new pedal position sensor? I will keep that in mind but I already have a replacement mount ready to go in this weekend. I didn't mention another issue, vibration when accelerating quickly. A mechanic told me that the culprit for that could be a bad mount as well. I will keep that sensor in mind should both problems not go away.

Are you sure it’s not a transmission or sensor issue? Did these changes stop the jerking in your camry?

If it were say a throttle positioning sensor I would expect there to be a check engine light, but there was none...till this morning. Relieved that I would get an answer that relief didn't last long when I was told it was a trans code. I didn't even know that trans problems would show a check engine light. I have an appointment Tuesday. I have always kept up on all fluids, including trans fluid which went thru a flush a year ago. The fluid level is full, and it looks and smells good. Now I'm afraid to drive it till then. This is going to be one long weekend.

 

I don’t have an engine light. Yesterday I took it to my mechanic. He told me that the trans is smooth. Then he checked the engine mounts. He found out that the passenger side upper & lower mounts are broken which was causing the jerk.

 

My '03 Camry with the same problem as yours just showed a check engine light. They scanned it and a trans code came up. I didn't even know that a trans problem would show a check engine light. I have an appointment this coming Tuesday; I hope there's some good movies on this weekend because now I'm afraid to drive it.

 

My mechanic found the problem through a diagnostic test. A new sensor and new connector along with labor plus the diagnostic test cost me $700. But I also had an intermittent check engine light coming on that was NOT on when they repaired the problem. That inconsistent check engine light makes it harder to find the problem. All I know is that my rough shifting problem is completely gone and hopefully will be the last repair that I make on this vehicle for the next year that I intend to keep it, at which time I can buy a new car with problems that are covered under a warranty.

Hi. I have changed the mounts. But the problem is still there! How can I check that the trans speed sensor is okay or not? How much it costs to replace the trans speed sensor? Please let me know.

Hi. I have changed the mounts. But the problem is still there! How can I check that the trans speed sensor is okay or not? How much it costs to replace the trans speed sensor? Please let me know.

Hi. I have changed the mounts. But the problem is still there! How can I check that the trans speed sensor is okay or not? How much it costs to replace the trans speed sensor? Please let me know.

Have someone look for a nest on top of your trans. If one is there you can bet that those hungry baby mice were willing to eat anything, including the insulation on the sensor wiring.